1jz E36 BMW frankensteining

[Mitevo7]

So technically if you opted to go standalone and use say a Links ECU to control the DBW it should be able to make it more responsive?


that friend of mine is is a dumbass. But he track his Myvi new car like a proooooo

links xTreme I mahu.. but I boh budget. i need to fast fast sell my lens so fund my ECU


Having friends with distributors is always awesome. I have AP Racing calipers just waiting for installation. I can't afford it yet.. sigh.

I can't go back to stock ECU already, the wiring is too messed up. Only solution is go straight to a proper ecu linke the Links Xtreme one or Haltech Elite

Hmm what exactly the previous owner did to the wiring and ECU ? Sounds like you are into some wiring nightmare.

Do you recommend Emanage blue to at least incharge of AFR tuning ?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Izso]

Hmm what exactly the previous owner did to the wiring and ECU ? Sounds like you are into some wiring nightmare.

Do you recommend Emanage blue to at least incharge of AFR tuning ?

Thanks,
Ken

Nightmare was an understatement. If you scroll back to pages 20-ish, you can see I had exposed wires, hacked wires and haphazard twist connected cables, exposed live wires and lots of other scary ass shit. I don't have a TPS anymore so the wiring and all is going to be difficult go back to stock standard wiring.

I wouldn't ever recommend emanage. It has a nick name of eDamage for a reason. Seriously - consider a standalone or just stick with stock and a AFPR. Piggybacks are so limited and not exactly cheap unless you buy second hand... and second hand has plenty of variables if unlucky.

 

[Mitevo7]

Nightmare was an understatement. If you scroll back to pages 20-ish, you can see I had exposed wires, hacked wires and haphazard twist connected cables, exposed live wires and lots of other scary ass shit. I don't have a TPS anymore so the wiring and all is going to be difficult go back to stock standard wiring.

I wouldn't ever recommend emanage. It has a nick name of eDamage for a reason. Seriously - consider a standalone or just stick with stock and a AFPR. Piggybacks are so limited and not exactly cheap unless you buy second hand... and second hand has plenty of variables if unlucky.

I will scroll back and check it out. Dang thats harsh on the Emanage, consider it was very popular back in the days. I have access to either Emanage or Unichip Q. Both can be sold to me with the same price, tuners for Unichip Q is very few in KL area, thats why i was considering the emanage What exactly was your experience with Emanage ?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

I will scroll back and check it out. Dang thats harsh on the Emanage, consider it was very popular back in the days. I have access to either Emanage or Unichip Q. Both can be sold to me with the same price, tuners for Unichip Q is very few in KL area, thats why i was considering the emanage What exactly was your experience with Emanage ?

Thanks,
Ken

going standalone even if it would cost a little bit more... still far better than any piggyback...

the ability to tune the engine properly...

 

[Izso]

I will scroll back and check it out. Dang thats harsh on the Emanage, consider it was very popular back in the days. I have access to either Emanage or Unichip Q. Both can be sold to me with the same price, tuners for Unichip Q is very few in KL area, thats why i was considering the emanage What exactly was your experience with Emanage ?

Thanks,
Ken

Experience was not mine. It's what I read and hear what others say about the Emanage device. But to be fair most of those that I read about are used units, not new units. But then again there was a case where the board melted due to the over-current? I don't remember the full story but basically the device itself doesn't seem to have circuit protection?

Unichip has plenty of tuners and a lot are big name shops! Unichip can handle more than the emanage such as closed loop tuning. Not Siemens VDO friendly so it might actually be easier to sell if you ever opt to sell.

My story started at page 7, the wires headache page 13

 

[LimauKanker]

Nightmare was an understatement. If you scroll back to pages 20-ish, you can see I had exposed wires, hacked wires and haphazard twist connected cables, exposed live wires and lots of other scary ass shit. I don't have a TPS anymore so the wiring and all is going to be difficult go back to stock standard wiring.

I wouldn't ever recommend emanage. It has a nick name of eDamage for a reason. Seriously - consider a standalone or just stick with stock and a AFPR. Piggybacks are so limited and not exactly cheap unless you buy second hand... and second hand has plenty of variables if unlucky.

no la, emanage is still okay for mitevo7@Mr. Ken's application. just make sure you tune it with someone who knows what they're doing. can try RS dynotune if you're into unichip or emanage, the boss, robyn do both. he is also the distributor for unichip.

 

[Mitevo7]

Experience was not mine. It's what I read and hear what others say about the Emanage device. But to be fair most of those that I read about are used units, not new units. But then again there was a case where the board melted due to the over-current? I don't remember the full story but basically the device itself doesn't seem to have circuit protection?

Unichip has plenty of tuners and a lot are big name shops! Unichip can handle more than the emanage such as closed loop tuning. Not Siemens VDO friendly so it might actually be easier to sell if you ever opt to sell.

My story started at page 7, the wires headache page 13

What's the 1JZ VVTI ECU type then ? To be honest i just want to fine tune the AFR after i use electronic boost controller to boost to 1 bar. I am keeping it at 1 bar to make 350 hp (hopefully) and learn how to control such power until i am used to it. As of now, my max HP car i ever driven is 200 hp, my Volvo S60. For 200hp its pretty easy to get used to, so 350 hp is gonna take some time.

If you have formulas to 350hp without massive mods please do share ?

no la, emanage is still okay for mitevo7@Mr. Ken's application. just make sure you tune it with someone who knows what they're doing. can try RS dynotune if you're into unichip or emanage, the boss, robyn do both. he is also the distributor for unichip.

RS Tune i heard of them quite often from Unichip owners, however some of them actually very dissatisfied with their services. My fine tuning need is to optimize the AFR when boost pressure at 1 bar. So to me, emanage is ok for the job. If Unichip can do better and have more market support, i would.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[LimauKanker]

What's the 1JZ VVTI ECU type then ? To be honest i just want to fine tune the AFR after i use electronic boost controller to boost to 1 bar. I am keeping it at 1 bar to make 350 hp (hopefully) and learn how to control such power until i am used to it. As of now, my max HP car i ever driven is 200 hp, my Volvo S60. For 200hp its pretty easy to get used to, so 350 hp is gonna take some time.

If you have formulas to 350hp without massive mods please do share ?



RS Tune i heard of them quite often from Unichip owners, however some of them actually very dissatisfied with their services. My fine tuning need is to optimize the AFR when boost pressure at 1 bar. So to me, emanage is ok for the job. If Unichip can do better and have more market support, i would.

Thanks,
Ken

hmm, idk what make them dissatisfied, but i've got few friends tuned their car there, all still happy. My personal experience tuning at RS is all good, no issue, drive for 3 years until i sold the car together with the emanage (summore original japan one).

My other car i am using standalone, tune at GT auto. iirc, GT auto tune emanage charge RM600++, standalone RM1000++

both place also have known satisfied and dissatisfied customers, from GT auto (because im closer to Thomas), can see that if you know what you're doing and you know what Thomas is doing, you'll rarely be dissatisfied.

but if you want to be safe, just go to GT auto, Thomas will explain everything to you if you ask

 

[Mitevo7]

hmm, idk what make them dissatisfied, but i've got few friends tuned their car there, all still happy. My personal experience tuning at RS is all good, no issue, drive for 3 years until i sold the car together with the emanage (summore original japan one).

My other car i am using standalone, tune at GT auto. iirc, GT auto tune emanage charge RM600++, standalone RM1000++

both place also have known satisfied and dissatisfied customers, from GT auto (because im closer to Thomas), can see that if you know what you're doing and you know what Thomas is doing, you'll rarely be dissatisfied.

but if you want to be safe, just go to GT auto, Thomas will explain everything to you if you ask

Those owners i heard of were complaining it took too long time to optimize the settings, and gain only few hp versus the money spent, but IMO, probably their car is already very well tuned from the factory and could not be improved too much further. BTW those people i heard of is driving BMW E46 and E90.

Yes i heard of GT Auto all the time, last time i was stalking a Nissan Sentra N16 BOT on the net, this dude also let this garage handle the entire engine modification, from hardware to electrical. Can they work on Unichip ?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Izso]

Those owners i heard of were complaining it took too long time to optimize the settings, and gain only few hp versus the money spent, but IMO, probably their car is already very well tuned from the factory and could not be improved too much further. BTW those people i heard of is driving BMW E46 and E90.

Yes i heard of GT Auto all the time, last time i was stalking a Nissan Sentra N16 BOT on the net, this dude also let this garage handle the entire engine modification, from hardware to electrical. Can they work on Unichip ?

Thanks,
Ken

Stock cars plonking in a piggyback don't expect any gains la. This is the problem with newbie users. They expect spending 3-4k on a piggyback will return 3-4k returns in sense of power. Doesn't work that way! BMWs come out factory tuned pretty damn well. Even Racechip which has PNP for some BMW models don't claim their usual 30% gains. Car Throttles E46 touring wagon diesel track car just recently installed a Racechip plugin and it improved the cars throttle response and gave it more torque but that's only because it's a diesel so when emissions is no longer a concern it's easier to squeeze out power (to some extent). If you're bringing your car to RS Dynotune I'd recommend you go the Unichip route. Anyway, power is gained by ramming in more fuel and more air, changing the electronics doesn't result in significant increases of power.

Yes Thomas @ GTAuto handles, installs, tunes Unichip as well. I think he's stopped Emanage and focuses more on Unichip and standalones. A friend of mine had Unichip installed into his stock Myvi 1.5 manual and it improved his torque slightly and gave him launch control. Other than that nothing else.

 

[Izso]

What's the 1JZ VVTI ECU type then ? To be honest i just want to fine tune the AFR after i use electronic boost controller to boost to 1 bar. I am keeping it at 1 bar to make 350 hp (hopefully) and learn how to control such power until i am used to it. As of now, my max HP car i ever driven is 200 hp, my Volvo S60. For 200hp its pretty easy to get used to, so 350 hp is gonna take some time.

If you have formulas to 350hp without massive mods please do share ?

Erm.. My car has mild cams, a large single turbo, upgraded top feed injectors and stock everything else. With the boost set to 1 bar I'm hitting 360hp on a mainline dyno (heart breaker dyno) so for you to hit 350, personally I think you should just change turbos. That'll do loads and it's not significant a mod to be classified under "massive"

 

[Mitevo7]

Stock cars plonking in a piggyback don't expect any gains la. This is the problem with newbie users. They expect spending 3-4k on a piggyback will return 3-4k returns in sense of power. Doesn't work that way! BMWs come out factory tuned pretty damn well. Even Racechip which has PNP for some BMW models don't claim their usual 30% gains. Car Throttles E46 touring wagon diesel track car just recently installed a Racechip plugin and it improved the cars throttle response and gave it more torque but that's only because it's a diesel so when emissions is no longer a concern it's easier to squeeze out power (to some extent). If you're bringing your car to RS Dynotune I'd recommend you go the Unichip route. Anyway, power is gained by ramming in more fuel and more air, changing the electronics doesn't result in significant increases of power.

Yes Thomas @ GTAuto handles, installs, tunes Unichip as well. I think he's stopped Emanage and focuses more on Unichip and standalones. A friend of mine had Unichip installed into his stock Myvi 1.5 manual and it improved his torque slightly and gave him launch control. Other than that nothing else.

Most of those users are on the base E46 or E90. The 6 cyl guys only managed to gain 10hp and 9nm of torque with stock intake and exhaust. By default, N/A BMW engines are one of the best i have ever experienced, aside Honda VTEC (not i-VTEC, can't feel the massive switch of character). I think the downside might be the 6HP gearbox, too much power loss despite have 215hp on paper. I drove plenty of E90 325i before settling down to a Volvo S60, i can tell 325i is not as spirited as i had expected. To be frank, quite disappointing, the older E46 2.5 has more go than it

Nice, let me talk to Thomas of Unichipping the 1JZ, i wanted nothing but 350hp. On stock turbo, is it too much risk to push for 1 bar of boost? What's the ideal pressure for CT15b to survive ?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[LimauKanker]

Most of those users are on the base E46 or E90. The 6 cyl guys only managed to gain 10hp and 9nm of torque with stock intake and exhaust. By default, N/A BMW engines are one of the best i have ever experienced, aside Honda VTEC (not i-VTEC, can't feel the massive switch of character). I think the downside might be the 6HP gearbox, too much power loss despite have 215hp on paper. I drove plenty of E90 325i before settling down to a Volvo S60, i can tell 325i is not as spirited as i had expected. To be frank, quite disappointing, the older E46 2.5 has more go than it

Nice, let me talk to Thomas of Unichipping the 1JZ, i wanted nothing but 350hp. On stock turbo, is it too much risk to push for 1 bar of boost? What's the ideal pressure for CT15b to survive ?

Thanks,
Ken

many turbo can boost 1 bar, it is not only the matter of whether the turbo can take it or not. i am paranoia, just to name a few variables goes thru my head such as your engine internal, piston, conrods, crank, boost control, turbo oil feeding, engine oil pump need to uprate@shim or can it sustain the pressure required (especially after install oil cooler) or not@boost spike, crank case pressure, etc etc etc. making sure the piston ring gap is healthy, you dont want binding, crank journal condition, whether the crank has been polished before, crank bearing clearance, compression ratio (volumetric test), metal gasket condition, fuel solution, fuel pump, fuel line, then good engine oil, the engine's engine oil consumption rate, whether it is burning off the engine oil, or leaking off gasket, or where is the oil missing.

making sure the cooling is sufficient for high horsepower, radiator, water thermostat, oil cooler, oil cooler thermostat, atf cooler (i believe you mentioned you have them), what's the best size to run, fan solution, shrouding.

making sure AN fitting are proper (i've blown an engine 3 hours after it was built, because i ter-bent the AN fitting when im installing myself).

add on: not to mention to sustain a healthy 1bar boost, gotto check on your wastegate, blow off valve, FPR( make sure is 1:1 boost reference).

 

[Izso]

Most of those users are on the base E46 or E90. The 6 cyl guys only managed to gain 10hp and 9nm of torque with stock intake and exhaust. By default, N/A BMW engines are one of the best i have ever experienced, aside Honda VTEC (not i-VTEC, can't feel the massive switch of character). I think the downside might be the 6HP gearbox, too much power loss despite have 215hp on paper. I drove plenty of E90 325i before settling down to a Volvo S60, i can tell 325i is not as spirited as i had expected. To be frank, quite disappointing, the older E46 2.5 has more go than it

Nice, let me talk to Thomas of Unichipping the 1JZ, i wanted nothing but 350hp. On stock turbo, is it too much risk to push for 1 bar of boost? What's the ideal pressure for CT15b to survive ?

Thanks,
Ken

I dunno la.. anyone with any stock car adding a piggy-back and expecting massive gains I personally feel is delusional. If you mod the air-intake and exhaust, then for sure you're changing the formula where Power = Air + fuel, increase air sure get more power so that's a different story.

I am not a E90 or any newer BMW fanboy. I had a chance to sit in a e46 M3 v8 manual recently and my god it's good. I don't know about the newer M3s but that v8 monster is something else!

As for 350hp on stock parts - I don't know man. Stock 1JZ output is 280hp give or take and that's assuming it's in tip top condition. If you mod top feed injectors and turbo I'm confident you'll hit 350, but with stock everything - I honestly doubt it. 1bar is pretty common if you ask me. Stock iirc is 0.5-0.7bar so I don't see any issue with 1bar.

Personally I think the 1JZ and 2JZ lower half have pretty strong internals. It's the VVTI heads that give problems, rumour has it that the non-VVTI 1JZ engines are stronger overall and can take more punishment vs the VVTI ones. The CT15b is a pretty zippy turbo so you'll probably have plenty of low end power and good torque. Why do you want 350 so badly anyway?

Kinda like what limaukanker said - consider supporting mods like oil cooler and gearbox cooler for your car. I don't know about the stock blow-off/wastegate because I don't have one but surely the diaphragm in such an old engine would need servicing or fixing. Maybe an aftermarket blow-off would be better. And yes - the 1JZ/2JZ is a bloody hot engine. Spend money to upgrade your cooling system. I am waiting to upgrade to a SPAL fan, maybe you wanna group buy with me when the time comes.

 

[Mitevo7]

I dunno la.. anyone with any stock car adding a piggy-back and expecting massive gains I personally feel is delusional. If you mod the air-intake and exhaust, then for sure you're changing the formula where Power = Air + fuel, increase air sure get more power so that's a different story.

I am not a E90 or any newer BMW fanboy. I had a chance to sit in a e46 M3 v8 manual recently and my god it's good. I don't know about the newer M3s but that v8 monster is something else!

As for 350hp on stock parts - I don't know man. Stock 1JZ output is 280hp give or take and that's assuming it's in tip top condition. If you mod top feed injectors and turbo I'm confident you'll hit 350, but with stock everything - I honestly doubt it. 1bar is pretty common if you ask me. Stock iirc is 0.5-0.7bar so I don't see any issue with 1bar.

Personally I think the 1JZ and 2JZ lower half have pretty strong internals. It's the VVTI heads that give problems, rumour has it that the non-VVTI 1JZ engines are stronger overall and can take more punishment vs the VVTI ones. The CT15b is a pretty zippy turbo so you'll probably have plenty of low end power and good torque. Why do you want 350 so badly anyway?

Kinda like what limaukanker said - consider supporting mods like oil cooler and gearbox cooler for your car. I don't know about the stock blow-off/wastegate because I don't have one but surely the diaphragm in such an old engine would need servicing or fixing. Maybe an aftermarket blow-off would be better. And yes - the 1JZ/2JZ is a bloody hot engine. Spend money to upgrade your cooling system. I am waiting to upgrade to a SPAL fan, maybe you wanna group buy with me when the time comes.

As far as i seen on youtube, most 1j owners swore on making more than 300hp but upgrading intake, exhaust, boost pressure increase and a good aftermarket tune. I am targeting century sprint in 5 seconds and quarter mile within 14 seconds. 350hp is a little bit over stock M3 E46 S54 crank power, 343hp, so to answer your question, i want this 1jz conversion to at least beat a stock M3 . Most of the mods will be spent on aftermarket BOV (HKS SSQV), cone air filter, 3' exhaust with 1 mid muffler only, aftermarket boost controller to boost pressure up to 1 bar. For cooling wise, we just installed a Hayden ATF cooler, engine oil cooler is under decisive and compulsory fan upgrade. Finally, Unichip Q to fine tune AFR, launch control and gearbox shift point fine tuning and torque converter lock up, stock gearbox is lazy asf. This should give a real M3 run for its money.

How much it cost for a SPAL fan?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Izso]

Good luck with your 350hp ambition then dude. Shouldn't be a problem as long as you have money

SPALs go for 1300 or more for a 16" sized fan.

 

[Mitevo7]

Good luck with your 350hp ambition then dude. Shouldn't be a problem as long as you have money

SPALs go for 1300 or more for a 16" sized fan.

Thats the magic words in car modifications, horsepower ain't cheap. I will see how much i can pump it out with IHE modifications, remapped ECU, and drive it for 6 months. Then slowly increase boost to 0.9 bar, test 1 bar ...

The FAN price is steep, your monster will need this lar. Stock standard 1JZ probably is too much. I might enjoy the extra cold air cond.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Mitevo7]

many turbo can boost 1 bar, it is not only the matter of whether the turbo can take it or not. i am paranoia, just to name a few variables goes thru my head such as your engine internal, piston, conrods, crank, boost control, turbo oil feeding, engine oil pump need to uprate@shim or can it sustain the pressure required (especially after install oil cooler) or not@boost spike, crank case pressure, etc etc etc. making sure the piston ring gap is healthy, you dont want binding, crank journal condition, whether the crank has been polished before, crank bearing clearance, compression ratio (volumetric test), metal gasket condition, fuel solution, fuel pump, fuel line, then good engine oil, the engine's engine oil consumption rate, whether it is burning off the engine oil, or leaking off gasket, or where is the oil missing.

making sure the cooling is sufficient for high horsepower, radiator, water thermostat, oil cooler, oil cooler thermostat, atf cooler (i believe you mentioned you have them), what's the best size to run, fan solution, shrouding.

making sure AN fitting are proper (i've blown an engine 3 hours after it was built, because i ter-bent the AN fitting when im installing myself).

add on: not to mention to sustain a healthy 1bar boost, gotto check on your wastegate, blow off valve, FPR( make sure is 1:1 boost reference).

The tuner i am working with saying 1 bar is not an issue for the CT15B, but he recommended me to get used to the car first before throw in big mods. My skills may not good enough to handle the new found engine power, which i agreed too. Our first so called modifications are custom exhaust pipes, custom intercooler pipes, custom air intake pipes, and TM Works TSD. From there, i will practice hooning with the car.

Now the wiring part is estimated to be completed within 3 weeks, that's hella of waiting time !

Thanks,
Ken

 

[LimauKanker]

The tuner i am working with saying 1 bar is not an issue for the CT15B, but he recommended me to get used to the car first before throw in big mods. My skills may not good enough to handle the new found engine power, which i agreed too. Our first so called modifications are custom exhaust pipes, custom intercooler pipes, custom air intake pipes, and TM Works TSD. From there, i will practice hooning with the car.

Now the wiring part is estimated to be completed within 3 weeks, that's hella of waiting time !

Thanks,
Ken

yup, that what i just said, it is not the matter of whether the turbo can boost 1 bar or not, because many turbo can boost more than that. yea, anyway that's a good starting point man.

3 weeks? ask Izso and he will tell you what's a hell of a waiting time. hahahahahha

 

[vr2turbo]

Just passed 1 year anniversary....