Tuning engine timing..

Convicted_Knight

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My sister's kancil 850 auto, rpm during idling is roughly around 2k without turning on the a/c yet.. i think it is high right? So i'm going crazy to tuning it down n manage to get 1k, i did it but it mess up something n cost me FC to go high.. RM15 sometimes 150KM pun tak lepas.. Imagine.. it only kancil..:confused_smile:

I got the diagram i roughly do..


All i do is push down (forcely [red arrow]) :_: :shades_smile: the what thing u called i also dunno.. In the diagram is yellow colour.. I think the way to tune that is to adjust those nuts right? Like those bicycle brakes, if u want to clippers to more thight tune the screw n it will pulling the cable abit..
 
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trex92

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i think u adjust the wrong thing. Carburetor cars like iswara and wira i remember that there is a screw that u adjust to move the lever (the yellow thing in ur pic) and there is another wan to adjust for air con...
 

howiechoo

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it wrong to adjust the nut ..it's used to adjust the fuel lini(pedal line)...not idle...

to adjust idel, u need to find a screw..about 10 cent size..can turn by hand...it located behind the carb....near the firewall....use ur hand to touch it...clockwise it lower and anticlockwise is higher....
 

Convicted_Knight

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ThunderGod_Cid said:
my kancil 850 runs rm10 for 50km...
so if rm15 i only get 75km...

you're lucky enough
:shocked: Worst...
U can tahan meh..? Me, bei tahan woh..
Is our car got something wrong? Mine is stock factory, not mods yet.. just only CAI.. Yours?
howiechoo said:
it wrong to adjust the nut ..it's used to adjust the fuel lini(pedal line)...not idle...

to adjust idel, u need to find a screw..about 10 cent size..can turn by hand...it located behind the carb....near the firewall....use ur hand to touch it...clockwise it lower and anticlockwise is higher....
Owh.. there is another screw? oh.. ok.. Will look for that..:_:


BTW,
In general speaking.. What kind of problem is our car FC suddenly became more higher? Besides, all i know incomplete combustion on spark plug will cause such increase FC..
 

kruger

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for kancil a/cond idle adjust screw is located under the air filter. try turn your air cond off and then on and you cand see the screw push up and down.

for tuning the idle rpm w/out a/c, the screw is located behind the carburator, your can turn by hand and got some spring under the screw.

for a/f ratio tuning is next to the idle screw. this one you must use end of your spark plug to turn the screw. this will reduce a/f consumption ;) with the right tuning la...
 

Convicted_Knight

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Still in the search of those screws.. Hard to find cuz i dont know how it look like... huhuhuhu... :cry_smile:
 
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1298

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That yellow thing in the diagram is to control the throttle body. Adjust it wrongly and your throttle "butterfly flap" will not close properly and thus engine rpm will stay higher than stock setting. In the end, higher fuel consumption.
 

1298

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najibkl,

If I'm not mistaken, the rpm reading should be around 800 without air-cond, and around 900 when air-cond is on.

If that's what you're asking...hehe.
 

ThunderGod_Cid

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my lecturer just tuned my car today... i forgot whats the rpm according to the manufacturer's book, cant rmb d. but its kinda high abt 1k.

well, f*** perodua... my kancil 1 year old, everythng stock. lecturer said the timing belt was installed less 1teeth, if u guys know what it means.
so instead of adjusting the valve clearance according to the pistons or crankshaft pulley, he had to adjust according to the distributor rotor.

he said, the timing belt like that results to higher fuel consumption... n0w kancil stock can run at 140km/h on 12inch rims.
Valve clearance :

Stock - Intake 0.25mm, Exhaust .30mm

U guys try setting it to 15,20 or 20,25 n c. you'll like it.
 

howiechoo

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ThunderGod_Cid said:
my lecturer just tuned my car today... i forgot whats the rpm according to the manufacturer's book, cant rmb d. but its kinda high abt 1k.

well, f*** perodua... my kancil 1 year old, everythng stock. lecturer said the timing belt was installed less 1teeth, if u guys know what it means.
so instead of adjusting the valve clearance according to the pistons or crankshaft pulley, he had to adjust according to the distributor rotor.

he said, the timing belt like that results to higher fuel consumption... n0w kancil stock can run at 140km/h on 12inch rims.
Valve clearance :

Stock - Intake 0.25mm, Exhaust .30mm

U guys try setting it to 15,20 or 20,25 n c. you'll like it.
for ur info, the valve clearance will change over time....maybe a little bit...mine changed from stock to about 30 in and 35 out....thus the engine sound is like knocking...btw, after adjust it to about 15 and 20, it seem smooth..but i feel like i m losing power....and my vacuum meter keep shaking...after tat, i set it back to 20 and 25...all problem solved...car smoother with a bit more power and my vacuum meter are stable now...maybe because my valve seal or anything had loose or broken.so my vacuum meter keep shaking....but set it too tight is no good....and as i know it's not easy to set it...although i set it, but i still not confidence to do it the second time....about the power, i also dunno y i feel no power if set too tight..mind to tell me?
 

built

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knight,

mechanics charge for tunning b'cos there are
more to just to turning a screw behind the carb.

basically, are only 2 elements, initial timing and
air-fuel ratio.

1st set your engine to the recommended idling
speed. then set the engine timing (initial timing).
this can only be seen with a timing light. it look
like a laser gun. the timing is mark at the pulley.
after your initial timing is set, you have to fine tune
the air fuel-ratio until you get your idling to specs.
refer to your car manual for the idling speed and
the initial timing. air-fuel ratio is usually 14:1 (if i
remember correctly).

if you do not have knowledge about initial timing
(position before or after TDC) and dun own a timing
light, forget about tuning the kancil yourself. you'll
screw the engine up. you may get better mileage
but the car will be under power and stuff like that.
or you'll get black smoke from your exhaust b'cos
of incomplete combustion. many things can happen.

have a nice day.
 

built

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1298 said:
najibkl,

If I'm not mistaken, the rpm reading should be around 800 without air-cond, and around 900 when air-cond is on.

If that's what you're asking...hehe.
if kancil has a auto choke, the idling speed
shud be the same with or without the air-
cond on, imo.
 

built

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ThunderGod_Cid said:
my lecturer just tuned my car today... i forgot whats the rpm according to the manufacturer's book, cant rmb d. but its kinda high abt 1k.

well, f*** perodua... my kancil 1 year old, everythng stock. lecturer said the timing belt was installed less 1teeth, if u guys know what it means.
so instead of adjusting the valve clearance according to the pistons or crankshaft pulley, he had to adjust according to the distributor rotor.

he said, the timing belt like that results to higher fuel consumption... n0w kancil stock can run at 140km/h on 12inch rims.
Valve clearance :

Stock - Intake 0.25mm, Exhaust .30mm

U guys try setting it to 15,20 or 20,25 n c. you'll like it.
hi sid,
i suggest get the timing belt installed correctly. and the
140 km/h thingy... a BIG no-no. not only with a kancil,
other cars too, imho.
 

gohlex

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guys, if i'm not wrong, kancil 850 auto is using efi,not carb.
the screw u guys mentions is for a carb engine right?
i wonder knight manage to find the screw or not...

correct me if i'm wrong, don shoot me ya.hehe
 

built

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goh, you may be right.

if the kancil has a efi system, then dun
time tuning the engine. the timing will
be self corrected by a ecu. check the
ecu, imho.
 

papagoines

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Feb 6, 2006
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built said:
goh, you may be right.

if the kancil has a efi system, then dun
time tuning the engine. the timing will
be self corrected by a ecu. check the
ecu, imho.
Pardon me for butting in, I'm using Kancil 850 EZI (Auto) EFI DOHC since 2003.... it's the same as Kelisa 850EXi Manual. The engine code is ED-DE

Me thinks that all auto version of Kancil mata bulat (My fren says Small Litre Kancil = SLK :X-: ) use the same engine. on Pero2 website...it quotes 50hp on wheel

But when I went for my first service, the perodua svc ctr in kajang accused me for changing engine and refuse to entertain me... it tooks multiple calls to Pero2 just to set thing straight!

Well, back to the topic... U need to scan ur ECU for any errors... if non critical errors found or already fixed, clear the error log and let the car idle for a while... then tried to adjust the idler screw... me myself never knows where this thingie is since i was on meeting... just send the car to Pero2 centre and off I went to my meeting.. picked it up in the evening...

My current FC is 15km/l... my car is using KN open pod + noisy exhaust setup, when it was standard, it can get up to 18km/l

IMHO, ur FC is bad la. Worst if your car is standard setup!
 

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