Ok, I inherited this Makita from a pro detailer (can't reveal name...) who has used this machine quite a bit. I have only used this machine once for the headlights restoration experiment. There are some quirks with this machine and me being a DIY nut, I thought of bringing this machine back to its former glory. Mechanical wise, this machine is good but can be better. On the other hand there are some quirky things with the electrical portion of this machine:
1. Some clicking sound at times during use from the rotor - will need to check the carbon brush
2. Power cord is broken - connection is intermittent
The other issue is removing all dirt, grease and compound/polish dust from the internals and vents.
Figure 1: Trusty old Makita... err that M16 to M14 does not come with this machine
Figure 2: Dirty gear box case and vent
Figure 3: Dirty vents to spindle assembly - notice the compound/polish cake
Figure 4: Dirty vents on the other side
Figure 5: Been through speedy times
Figure 6: Ackkk... first part of the internals which houses the power cord end points, trigger, speed dial, control unit and magnetic speed sensor.
Figure 7: Trigger unit. Power cord connection is ok from the inside. Looks like a broken wire connection somewhere within the cord which I would replace later. Earth connection does not look nice... should have a soldered lug.
Figure 8: Hermetically sealed control unit with speed sensor (circular magnet on rotor), speed dial and trigger unit - all dirty and caked up
Figure 9: What goes into the spindle...
Figure 10: Speed dial and potentiometer all caked up with dirt. Luckily Makita uses good parts thus everything is still working well
Figure 11: Look at the amount of dirt on the outside of the spindle... can't imagine what goes in and goes out...
Figure 12: Popped the two side caps to gain access to the carbon brush. Both looks a little short but one is broken. The braided copper cable is detached from the end plate. Machine still works as the connection is still there due to the current now being carried by the metal spring but not as good as compared to pure copper. We have found the source of the clicking sound.
Figure 13: Replacement carbon brush #303 for this machine
Figure 14: Old vs new. Old brushes are more than 50% gone...
Figure 15: But... end plate of new brushes is crimped. Will it get detached again?
Figure 16: The cure for being paranoid, solder the end points!
Figure 17: Gear box removed. Look at the spindle stator housing full of filth and grease inside.
Figure 18: Ever wonder why Makita spindle body is large? Here is your answer - energized stator coils. Interesting.
Figure 19: Taking off the interface plastic plate to reveal...
Figure 20: Dirt inside the housing and stator assembly...
Figure 21: Plastic interface plate...
Figure 22: Stator coil removed
Figure 23: Stator housing inside
Figure 24: Now how to clean??? OPC 1:3, soft brush and also Systema 0.02mm soft toothbrush! Take note that is only for the non electrical parts!!! Clean electrical/electronic parts with dedicated and proper electronic circuit board cleaner such as 99.9% IPA, etc.
Figure 25: Handle cleaned - vents are now all clean with no compound/polish cake. Scratches will leave it there.
Figure 26: Rear stator housing, clean!
Figure 27: Internal of stator housing, clean!
Figure 28: Control unit and speed sensor, clean!
Figure 29: Trigger, clean!
Figure 30: The longest to clean - interface plastic plate of stator housing. Dial also cleaned.
Figure 31: New set of thicker and stronger power cord and 3-pin plug. Earth point now spot a lug and all wire end points tinned to protect it and improve electrical contact.
Figure 32: Electrical portion fully reassembled. Some modifications made in wiring to ease reassembly and future maintenance. Crimped cable end point connection removed, soldered and heat shrunk to improve electrical contact.
Figure 33: Fully reassembled and tested to make sure it works and electrical problems resolved!
Disclaimer:
1. This is a DIY project, do know what you are attempting before trying this out yourself!
2. This is a power tool, don't fool around if you do not know what you are actually dealing with! I am in no pint liable if you screw up.
3. Some cables were modified to ease reassembly in particular the carbon brush housing spring wire connector which is a PITA to fix back for the stator winding.
4. Do not wet electrical parts like trigger, stator winding, etc to avoid risk of electrical shock. use proper electrical contact cleaner with no residue.
5. Original Makita power cord is crap...
When I do have time, I will go over to the gear box bearing removal and replacement. The bearing sees lots of load and gets worn out over time with more free play.
Did not clean up the rotor, fan blade and gearbox assembly yet... short of time. Part #2.
1. Some clicking sound at times during use from the rotor - will need to check the carbon brush
2. Power cord is broken - connection is intermittent
The other issue is removing all dirt, grease and compound/polish dust from the internals and vents.
Figure 1: Trusty old Makita... err that M16 to M14 does not come with this machine
Figure 2: Dirty gear box case and vent
Figure 3: Dirty vents to spindle assembly - notice the compound/polish cake
Figure 4: Dirty vents on the other side
Figure 5: Been through speedy times
Figure 6: Ackkk... first part of the internals which houses the power cord end points, trigger, speed dial, control unit and magnetic speed sensor.
Figure 7: Trigger unit. Power cord connection is ok from the inside. Looks like a broken wire connection somewhere within the cord which I would replace later. Earth connection does not look nice... should have a soldered lug.
Figure 8: Hermetically sealed control unit with speed sensor (circular magnet on rotor), speed dial and trigger unit - all dirty and caked up
Figure 9: What goes into the spindle...
Figure 10: Speed dial and potentiometer all caked up with dirt. Luckily Makita uses good parts thus everything is still working well
Figure 11: Look at the amount of dirt on the outside of the spindle... can't imagine what goes in and goes out...
Figure 12: Popped the two side caps to gain access to the carbon brush. Both looks a little short but one is broken. The braided copper cable is detached from the end plate. Machine still works as the connection is still there due to the current now being carried by the metal spring but not as good as compared to pure copper. We have found the source of the clicking sound.
Figure 13: Replacement carbon brush #303 for this machine
Figure 14: Old vs new. Old brushes are more than 50% gone...
Figure 15: But... end plate of new brushes is crimped. Will it get detached again?
Figure 16: The cure for being paranoid, solder the end points!
Figure 17: Gear box removed. Look at the spindle stator housing full of filth and grease inside.
Figure 18: Ever wonder why Makita spindle body is large? Here is your answer - energized stator coils. Interesting.
Figure 19: Taking off the interface plastic plate to reveal...
Figure 20: Dirt inside the housing and stator assembly...
Figure 21: Plastic interface plate...
Figure 22: Stator coil removed
Figure 23: Stator housing inside
Figure 24: Now how to clean??? OPC 1:3, soft brush and also Systema 0.02mm soft toothbrush! Take note that is only for the non electrical parts!!! Clean electrical/electronic parts with dedicated and proper electronic circuit board cleaner such as 99.9% IPA, etc.
Figure 25: Handle cleaned - vents are now all clean with no compound/polish cake. Scratches will leave it there.
Figure 26: Rear stator housing, clean!
Figure 27: Internal of stator housing, clean!
Figure 28: Control unit and speed sensor, clean!
Figure 29: Trigger, clean!
Figure 30: The longest to clean - interface plastic plate of stator housing. Dial also cleaned.
Figure 31: New set of thicker and stronger power cord and 3-pin plug. Earth point now spot a lug and all wire end points tinned to protect it and improve electrical contact.
Figure 32: Electrical portion fully reassembled. Some modifications made in wiring to ease reassembly and future maintenance. Crimped cable end point connection removed, soldered and heat shrunk to improve electrical contact.
Figure 33: Fully reassembled and tested to make sure it works and electrical problems resolved!
Disclaimer:
1. This is a DIY project, do know what you are attempting before trying this out yourself!
2. This is a power tool, don't fool around if you do not know what you are actually dealing with! I am in no pint liable if you screw up.
3. Some cables were modified to ease reassembly in particular the carbon brush housing spring wire connector which is a PITA to fix back for the stator winding.
4. Do not wet electrical parts like trigger, stator winding, etc to avoid risk of electrical shock. use proper electrical contact cleaner with no residue.
5. Original Makita power cord is crap...
When I do have time, I will go over to the gear box bearing removal and replacement. The bearing sees lots of load and gets worn out over time with more free play.
Did not clean up the rotor, fan blade and gearbox assembly yet... short of time. Part #2.
