Overstrecthed tyres, pros & con ?

6UE5t

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well than, as most sifuses r against them, I wanna know is there anything that I do to make my tyres look stretched. Rota rims maybe??:confused:
Nope, either do proper fitments or stretched, cannot be both. And I suggest do the right thing and throw that stretched thingy way2 far away from your mind!

Bro, the section width measurement 165 shouldn't be taken as direct rim width figure. As mentioned in Performance Tire and Wheel Relationship by Yokohama, "for 50-series tires and higher, the measuring rim width is 70% of the tire's section width rounded off to the nearest 0.5inch while For tires that have an aspect ratio lower than a 50-series, the measuring rim is 85% of the tire's section design width".

Therefore, tyre with 165 section width should ideally mount on 4.5" up to 6.0" wide rim:
-- 165mm=6.5inch
-- 70% of 6.5inch = 4.5inch

The same formula is re-quoted by Car Bibles in its An ideal rim-width calculator.
Usually I'd match tires & rims with 2-3cm margin from the tire width to accommodate for the rims thickness and to still have protection of the rims' lip by the tire.
 

twistedichc

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k than as all r against them, i'll follow coz not riding the car alone. now, I really want 2 make my tire look fat, but been told there is not much r14 that can fit 175 profile for my kelisa @ is it that I,ve got the wrong info so that i'd go for 175/50R15. it's coz just change all 4 new tyres, when change got 2 see that 2 out 4 rims a bit dented, as for that time no more budget left for rims. if 2 change wit r15 got to crank more money worr, if to change rims only it would be a waste if I were 2 change it again later, 2nd hand rims dunno wether it was dented & been refurbish @ originally ok. if can fit kancil than I wont have any prob later.:confused:
 

vr2turbo

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k than as all r against them, i'll follow coz not riding the car alone. now, I really want 2 make my tire look fat, but been told there is not much r14 that can fit 175 profile for my kelisa @ is it that I,ve got the wrong info so that i'd go for 175/50R15. it's coz just change all 4 new tyres, when change got 2 see that 2 out 4 rims a bit dented, as for that time no more budget left for rims. if 2 change wit r15 got to crank more money worr, if to change rims only it would be a waste if I were 2 change it again later, 2nd hand rims dunno wether it was dented & been refurbish @ originally ok. if can fit kancil than I wont have any prob later.:confused:
Not too sure of Kelisa wheel arch space, but for Kenari 175/50R15 the rears will scrub the wheel arch fender on heavy load. 15" usually comes in 7J try to look for 6.5J and offset 40. Offset 38 more likely to scrub fender as it comes out more. If don't want to scrub fender with 15" rims have to go 165/50R15. Tyres will automatic be stretched.....:banghead::biggrin:
 

twistedichc

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Not too sure of Kelisa wheel arch space, but for Kenari 175/50R15 the rears will scrub the wheel arch fender on heavy load. 15" usually comes in 7J try to look for 6.5J and offset 40. Offset 38 more likely to scrub fender as it comes out more. If don't want to scrub fender with 15" rims have to go 165/50R15. Tyres will automatic be stretched.....:banghead::biggrin:
thanx for the info bro, think if see any that 2 my liking, i'd take a pic & post it here & see what u & the others think of it, as for the moment gonna save a bit & hold out bit longer coz the car right now is just weekend ride so wouldn't be to much a burden to the rims condition. thanx a lot guys, never been so "in" wit cars b4 join here. thanx again.:biggrin:
 

vr2turbo

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thanx for the info bro, think if see any that 2 my liking, i'd take a pic & post it here & see what u & the others think of it, as for the moment gonna save a bit & hold out bit longer coz the car right now is just weekend ride so wouldn't be to much a burden to the rims condition. thanx a lot guys, never been so "in" wit cars b4 join here. thanx again.:biggrin:
In Here can easily get poisoned......:rofl:
 

Supra_Fanatics

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Not too sure of Kelisa wheel arch space, but for Kenari 175/50R15 the rears will scrub the wheel arch fender on heavy load. 15" usually comes in 7J try to look for 6.5J and offset 40. Offset 38 more likely to scrub fender as it comes out more. If don't want to scrub fender with 15" rims have to go 165/50R15. Tyres will automatic be stretched.....:banghead::biggrin:
But u said stretched tyres not good wor bro :rofl:

165/50/15 will stretch the tyres? I prefer to have more grip on the road than just looks and uneven wear on the tyres.
 

vr2turbo

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But u said stretched tyres not good wor bro :rofl:

165/50/15 will stretch the tyres? I prefer to have more grip on the road than just looks and uneven wear on the tyres.
165 use on 4.5 to 5" only. If use 15" rims is 6.5 to 7" wide, therefore already stretched mah!
175 then less stretch, but tyre is higher and wider and therefore sure to scrub fender... :banghead:
 

zul_klasik

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ermm
look intresting thread
im sorry to share my thought here (not using kelisa, im using myvi 2012)

moments :
Aug 2012 - Aug 2013 = stock oem myvi rims and tyre
Aug 2013- Oct 2013 (trade in) = rim 16",8.25jj,(forgot offset),tyre 205/45/16 (not much fitment and flush)
Oct 2013 (only 1 day use, then trade in again) = rim 15",8.jj F and 9jj R (forgot offset), tyre 175/50/15 (toooo low but a lof of wheel gap)
Oct 2013 till current = rim 17,8.5jj F and 10jj R (et 15/20), tyre 205/40/17 (nice setting)

pro = nice style..attraction..lorry or treller drive fast next to you, ur car not "membuang" with their wind momentum
con = need to check tyre pressure every 2 weeks, avoid pothole


stance and fitment philosophy = haters always hate our scene..huhuh
 
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6UE5t

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ermm
look intresting thread
im sorry to share my thought here (not using kelisa, im using myvi 2012)

moments :
Aug 2012 - Aug 2013 = stock oem myvi rims and tyre
Sept 2013- Oct 2013 (tade in) = rim 16",8.25jj,(forgot offset),tyre 205/45/16
Oct 2013 (only 1 day use, then trade in back) = rim 15",8.jj F and 9jj R (forgot offset), tyre 175/50/15
Oct 2013 till current = rim 17,8.5jj F and 10jj R (et 15/20), tyre 205/40/17

pro = nice style..attraction..lorry or treller drive fast next to you, ur car not "membuang" with their wind momentum
con = need to check tyre pressure every 2 weeks, avoid pothole


stance and fitment philosophy = haters always hate our scene..huhuh
Nice style and attraction, that's very subjective. People can also be attracted to look at something really bad/ugly, right?
Car not "membuang", that can be achieved without doing stretched tires, so stretched tires is not the reason why the car is not "membuang".
 

zul_klasik

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yaaa..
just my thought and sharing..
ugly??wierd??
ermm, everybody has their own perpectives
i respect ur comment and thought
chill bro
 

l2s_turbo

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6UE5t

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Well there are some arguments all over the world too..
Are stretched tyres legal and safe
One thing for sure, proper recommended fitment is already proven safer, and stretched fitment would never be safer than recommended one as it's not yet even proven to be safe in the first place! So if some one asks me like the TS did in this thread, I'll surely give the better answer which will be safer, and would never recommended something that's not yet proven safe nor less safe. I would never want to be responsible giving a recommendation that later can become detrimental to others. If however the person still ignores it, then that's his/her choice and not my fault. :)
 

YYC

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Stretch will undermine the durability and safety of tyre especially at the sidewall as the underlying construction has a elastic limit.


Sidewall Separations/Bubbles

Lea esta página en español

Pneumatic tires are made of specialized rubber compounds reinforced by plies of fabric cords and metal wires. While most rubber compounds can be stretched easily, the underlying fabric cords and steel wires actually define the tire's shape by limiting stretching. In order to bond these dissimilar materials, the cords and wires are coated with adhesives and/or rubber before the other components are bonded to them during curing.

A strong bond between these various components is necessary to provide the desired durability. However the strength of the bond can be reduced if 1) any of the components are contaminated during manufacturing (resulting in incomplete bonding), or 2) components are damaged in service due to use while overloaded/underinflated, or by impact with potholes, curbs or other road hazards that pinch the tire between the rim and the road, or simply stretch the rubber beyond the elastic limit of the underlying cords and wires.

Past experience indicates that a sidewall separation/bubble caused by component contamination or incomplete bonding during manufacturing will appear within the first six months of service. Fortunately these separations/bubbles typically appear when they are small in size and before the tire's strength is substantially reduced. However since typical tires roll about 800 times every mile and the air pressure inside the tire is greater than outside, tire separations/bubbles that are unseen or ignored will continue to grow in size, further reduce strength, often generate noise and vibration, and ultimately lead to tire failure as the tire stretches under load (similar to the way that continuously bending a paperclip back and forth will cause it to weaken and break). However there is one last thing to remember; while a separation/bubble early in a tire's life is usually associated with a manufacturing condition, even a single, significant impact with a deep pothole or sharp curb can cause a new tire and wheel to be damaged.

If the sidewall separation/bubble appears after six months of on-vehicle service, prolonged driving on overloaded/underinflated tires or a road hazard are the most likely causes. However it may take weeks or months after an impact for a separation/bubble to appear as the damaged or bruised area continues to weaken. Unfortunately the time differential between the impact that caused the initial damage and the delayed appearance of visible evidence often means that the driver has forgotten about the impact that damaged the tire in the first place.

The varieties of possible causes make it necessary to inspect the tire while mounted on the wheel (sometimes the wheel will show impact damage adjacent to the separation/bubble), as well as to dismount the tire and inspect the condition of its innerliner thoroughly. Sometimes it is necessary to return a tire to the manufacturer's inspection center where it can be dissected before the actual cause can be determined.

While taller profile tires can be damaged by the more severe impacts with deeper potholes and sharper curbs, low profile tires mounted on large diameter wheels are the most susceptible to this type of damage. The driver of vehicles equipped with low profile tires should make special efforts to avoid potholes, curbs or other road hazards.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=159
 

zul_klasik

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haha..
moral of the story..
just stick to stock OEM..
reliable..practical..nil headache..and safe..
no need modi or else..
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 

vr2turbo

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One thing for sure, proper recommended fitment is already proven safer, and stretched fitment would never be safer than recommended one as it's not yet even proven to be safe in the first place! So if some one asks me like the TS did in this thread, I'll surely give the better answer which will be safer, and would never recommended something that's not yet proven safe nor less safe. I would never want to be responsible giving a recommendation that later can become detrimental to others. If however the person still ignores it, then that's his/her choice and not my fault. :)
Yup, If stretched is safe why then manufacturer give correct fitment details and will void warranty if out of specs...:biggrin:
 

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