Izzit true bot will affect reliability? How severe will be affected actually?

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

what car you want BOT.?

I'll be getting either a N16 sentra or Accord yr'01 next month. U know these type a bit on the SOFT side.
Just looking for a way to squeeze some FUN in it while not sacrificing the comfort. I have no tuning experience, so i try to find some way to get a good job at one go.

 

[Izso]

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

 

[MKMD428]

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

N16 user here.
yes. i agree with izso.. forget the N16 if you intend to mod the stock engine. money per hp ratio is very2 bad.
QG18 is quite good...but in general..any QG engines are not that friendly to play with. here's a friend who did BOT his QG..but mind you, you'll be shocked and amazed by the aftermarket product that was chosen and the money spent as well. This was his path and he chose not to transplant engine and off course his financial wise is good.

The N16 Files

in the States...those yanks modded the QR series. QR20 and QR25.. I've read and viewed couple of good aftermarket products for them and they are not as weak as the QG series. But then again..QR series halfcuts in Malaysia are not that easy to be stumble upon. let alone their spares I presume..

myself ended up with SR20DET after knowing the low points of QG series.
hope my explanation helps.

 

[aranny2001]

I'll suggest u go for a full engine transplant if u wish to turbo your myvi. Reliability and cost wise, bot will always falls behind a full engine transplant. A bot will set u back at least 10k doesn't matter whether u are go for low boost or high assuming u are getting all parts new. Higher boost will cost u more. For full engine transplant will cost u roughly about 9k, k3-vet halfcut- around 6k, labor and workmanship about 1.5k, overhaul with internal tear n wear replacement- around 1.5k but in return u get a peace of mind while boosting on the road. Reliability is the key here plus cheaper to maintain in long term and cheaper overall package of course.

what you said also true la.. but mine is 1.5cc, is daihatsu git any oem turbo charged 1.5cc turbo engine? k3-vet is 1.3cc only

 

[Ryuuken]

:wavey:To:TS tumpang to ask ..

sifu, i plan to bot the new myvi 1.5 in future... the engine compression is 10:1, it is consider high to boost at max 0.5 bar? will i need to reduce the compression or change any internal parts? acutally im expecting a low safe boost or soft turbo for the car, daily driven and suit for long distance drive and wish after bot it will be as easy to maintain just like an normal auto gear NA car.. im not plan for racing but just expect slightly more torque with some nice bov sound...

Woah..10.1 for a turbo plus DVVT and dare to boost at 0.5..haha...
Becareful..that is a risk you're going to take..What if the fuel is lean..dead and gone...
One thing i recommend the compression ratio to be 8.2..Why?
-First,it is much safer...
-Second,you want to go high rev until 7000 RPM also wont be a problem,
-Third,wear and tear will be lesser.It'll be very reliable.
-Fourth,Might sound a bit selfish,but it'll be easier for us to tune..HAHAHA...
High compression cars is hard for us to tune...honest...
Engine transplant might work as well...Perhaps may cost lesser...But if you love to combine DVVT with turbo..its up to you..
You do know why factory don't set the boost higher right?
It's because they know it'll affect the reliability. The GTO i'm driving now could be boost up and also the compression could be increase,but of course the price is the reliability of the car. It'll go way beyond suck.

---------- Post added at 09:29 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------

Forget the N16. If you insist on a Sentra at the very least get the 1.8.

There's a very very fine line between performance and comfort. You can't have both. Once you do find the balance, eventually you'll want more power and more and more and more...

You're a HP maniac aren't you izso...hahaha....

 

[Izso]

To be exact I'm a torque maniac. I'm not all that eager on WHP.

 

[virqai]

the only thing i always see...if turbo engine,TURBO coz will make engine kong and if vvt engine,VVT will make engine kong...then???
ieyang tuwe`k.....sorry if i'm wrong...

 

[Jac83]

In short reliability for bot will not be much of an issue if u get all the parts right with proper tuning and maintainence. Do bear in mind though a na engine is always at it's best when used as it is thus by bot even with all the tuning and parts replacement, in the end U'll still be shortening the lifespan of the engine as well as accelerating the tear and wear. That is the fact.

 

[Veloc]

I would set aside RM10k for a proper job with almost no recon / halfcut parts. I don't trust those type of parts unless it's a aircon compressor or something unimportant. halfcut pistons, turbos or cranks - that's scary unless you know how to look out for the lemons.

Seeing this makes me sad la... Are used parts really that bad? I am thinking of using everything new except for crankshaft and conrods. Because I heard my 4AFE can fit in 4AGZE crankshaft and rods easily. Pistons will get new of course. Im just aiming for low boost also like our bro here, so actually no need to change crankshaft. But I was thinking if I overhaul my engine, might as well put in a tough part there just for safety.

So what do you guys think? Original crankshaft (not meant for boost) more reliable or a used supercharged crankshaft (means for boost) is more reliable???

 

[ixeo]

I'll suggest u go for a full engine transplant if u wish to turbo your myvi. Reliability and cost wise, bot will always falls behind a full engine transplant. A bot will set u back at least 10k doesn't matter whether u are go for low boost or high assuming u are getting all parts new. Higher boost will cost u more. For full engine transplant will cost u roughly about 9k, k3-vet halfcut- around 6k, labor and workmanship about 1.5k, overhaul with internal tear n wear replacement- around 1.5k but in return u get a peace of mind while boosting on the road. Reliability is the key here plus cheaper to maintain in long term and cheaper overall package of course.

Depends. A BOT can be put together for the same price as an engine swap and be just as reliable if done correctly. The only tricky part is engine management. If you do it right the end result will be just as reliable as engine swap, and more powerful. The same cannot be said for the N/A's transmission be it manual or automatic. LOL.

In short reliability for bot will not be much of an issue if u get all the parts right with proper tuning and maintainence. Do bear in mind though a na engine is always at it's best when used as it is thus by bot even with all the tuning and parts replacement, in the end U'll still be shortening the lifespan of the engine as well as accelerating the tear and wear. That is the fact.

That's not a fact, that's false. The answer is it depends on the engine design. Since the guy was asking about the Daihatsu/Perodua engines, the K3-VE block is exactly the same as the K3-VET block. The conrods are exactly the same, the heads are interchangeable, the only difference on the engine is the injectors and low compression pistons.

Seeing this makes me sad la... Are used parts really that bad? I am thinking of using everything new except for crankshaft and conrods. Because I heard my 4AFE can fit in 4AGZE crankshaft and rods easily. Pistons will get new of course. Im just aiming for low boost also like our bro here, so actually no need to change crankshaft. But I was thinking if I overhaul my engine, might as well put in a tough part there just for safety.

So what do you guys think? Original crankshaft (not meant for boost) more reliable or a used supercharged crankshaft (means for boost) is more reliable???

You will need to find out if the original crankshaft is the same part as the 4AGZE crankshaft. If it is the same, then....

 

[Jac83]

Depends. A BOT can be put together for the same price as an engine swap and be just as reliable if done correctly. The only tricky part is engine management. If you do it right the end result will be just as reliable as engine swap, and more powerful. The same cannot be said for the N/A's transmission be it manual or automatic. LOL.



That's not a fact, that's false. The answer is it depends on the engine design. Since the guy was asking about the Daihatsu/Perodua engines, the K3-VE block is exactly the same as the K3-VET block. The conrods are exactly the same, the heads are interchangeable, the only difference on the engine is the injectors and low compression pistons.

I was replying to the TS's enquiry, not into a particular engine, rather generally on bot topic. Most bot are done on na engine or else it will not be called bot. Anyway if u wish to highlight it in a particular way by all means. Na engine with proper maintainence can last for at least 20 years, some 30 years. But I can't say the same for bot engine though. Thus my point there. Personally i have yet to see any bot car which lasted more than 10 years. Perhaps i have yet to see it. To each their own.

 

[ixeo]

Don't generalize and say BOT won't last. That's spreading unnecessary fear and misconception.

NA engines BOT that have a turbo sibling engine based on the same engine block will definitely last as long as a factory turbocharged engine, if not longer, when done right. As the factory has already done all necessary R&D on the engine itself.

A Campro BOT for example. I have no idea. Whether that block can withstand turbo or not is anybody's guess. The Campro CFE is essentially a new design and different from usual Campros according to Proton.

 

[Alvin Lee Edwards]

Tq sifus sifus. Confirmed i'll get Accord next week. 2.0 iV-TEC
BTW i heard BOT a iVTEC is not an easy job. Pls enlighten me.

---------- Post added at 08:02 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:01 PM ----------

Don't generalize and say BOT won't last. That's spreading unnecessary fear and misconception.

NA engines BOT that have a turbo sibling engine based on the same engine block will definitely last as long as a factory turbocharged engine, if not longer, when done right. As the factory has already done all necessary R&D on the engine itself.

A Campro BOT for example. I have no idea. Whether that block can withstand turbo or not is anybody's guess. The Campro CFE is essentially a new design and different from usual Campros according to Proton.

So if BOT an engine with no Turbo sibling, ?

 

[Zaid Zainuddin]

bro alvin, imo if you're buying a 60k accord and then spend some 10k to slap a turbo i think better you gather those 70k and buy preve,ori turbo tau... and brand new summore...low interest for sure... or get an airtrek turbo.. so many model to chose...toyota estima also got supercharge
what i'm trying to say is,if this is your 1st time modding a car or 1st time using turbo...please consider it in stock form.if you wanna gain knowlegde from a 10k wira i can understand,but a 60k car can make ur head spin

 

[Veloc]

bro alvin, imo if you're buying a 60k accord and then spend some 10k to slap a turbo i think better you gather those 70k and buy preve,ori turbo tau... and brand new summore...low interest for sure... or get an airtrek turbo.. so many model to chose...toyota estima also got supercharge
what i'm trying to say is,if this is your 1st time modding a car or 1st time using turbo...please consider it in stock form.if you wanna gain knowlegde from a 10k wira i can understand,but a 60k car can make ur head spin

Haha... Personally, I would buy a 60k jap car and turbo it instead of buying 70k new proton. Just light boost it.