[WTA]Inverted Tie Rod Ends

count me in.
option 3 i think is like the R3 Bump Steer Kit photo attached.
it is exposed to dust/sand and can last about 12 months before need to change the bearing after it worn out.
 

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should go for this inverted set-up,im done the same on my car last time.steering response behaved differently too.
 
so this will eliminate the issue of super positive toe whenever we wanna adjust the front camber setting lower than the OEM spec, am i right? i have this problem of my toe in going +3 deg whenever i tweak the camber beyond -1.5 deg. in that case i would go for the proposed cheaper solution by Ali bulala than buying this from the states..

http://typeoneracing.com/catalog/product.php?productid=1293&cat=104&page=1

great discussion peeps! do count me in for the group buy.
 
so this will eliminate the issue of super positive toe whenever we wanna adjust the front camber setting lower than the OEM spec, am i right? i have this problem of my toe in going +3 deg whenever i tweak the camber beyond -1.5 deg. in that case i would go for the proposed cheaper solution by Ali bulala than buying this from the states..

http://typeoneracing.com/catalog/product.php?productid=1293&cat=104&page=1

great discussion peeps! do count me in for the group buy.

ok. i know the T1R tie rod end and heard there are problems with it. dont know if its true or not. still
waiting for the price for the custom tie rod...
 
Ali, is it possible to get it by next week or it will take longer time? I can wait but just want to know the lead time. Actually i need to adjust my camber and toe by friday next week.
 
Ali, is it possible to get it by next week or it will take longer time? I can wait but just want to know the lead time. Actually i need to adjust my camber and toe by friday next week.

I can't promise. But I try to make it next week. Monday I will update on it.
 
UPDATE!!!!

Good News GUYS... the picture that i post are a maintenance type of tie rod and too short. the pillow ball need to be regrease and worn out easily. if the pillow ball kong need to buy a whole tie rod end. so, the mechanic said that he going to custom from billet steel and use high quality spherical bearing for our car. It gonna be better quality. so option 3 la.. the price should be cheaper than the price of the tie rod end which lightningfield posthttp://typeoneracing.com/catalog/product.php?productid=1293&cat=104&page=1. so. the price should be cheaper than Rm700 and the quality are much better than the T1R inverted tie rod end. We should get the final price maybe by this friday. Thanks and be patient....
 
UPDATE!!!!

The price for the inverted tie rod end will be RM600. The mechanic will try to finished the first eight by CNY. The inverted will be made from billet steel and using better bearing. Hope u guys can wait. Thanks. hehe...
 
alli please talk to that guy to get cheaper lar....say between 3-400 per pair.

RM600 is much more expensiffff than the T1R...
 
alli please talk to that guy to get cheaper lar....say between 3-400 per pair.

RM600 is much more expensiffff than the T1R...

i will try to get cheaper. i think more quantity will help reduce the price. btw. what i know that the T1R inverted tie rod much more expensive. price of it around 500+ not include shipping and tax to malaysia. the T1R are no good in quality. there been complains about the T1R tie rod. BTW. if want same quality as the T1R it should be cheaper. Our custom should be a lot nicer and higher quality with same price or cheaper than it. anyway. i will try get cheaper price. i dont know the what the prototype or final product will look like yet. i will try to get it cheaper and earlier. thanks.
 
waiting for the mechanic back from holiday. then maybe we can get the prototype. hehe. thank you for ur patience...
 
A roll center adjuster and extra castors is what the doctor order for the DC5/EP3 suspension problem
 
tim... i think its not extra castor. but adjustable castor is it.... Does the RCA and adj castor make the tie rod level.... it require level tie rod angle to make the car more responsive as other car dont have their tie rod connect to suspension right? correct me if im wrong?
 
Usually dc5 race cars use custom/aftermarket caster kit to get more caster angle than stock value. Why they need more caster is because they want more camber gain (in other words more grip and able to get more tuck-in/turn-in at mid corner) and better straightline stability (bcoz race cars usually hv very high static camber like 3.5deg-4deg which reduces straightline performance).
Caster kit on our dc5 is actually an offset lower arm bush where it's offset forward so that the strut sits at an angle. This angle where the point of the top mount and lower ball joint which makes the steering axis with respect to the vertical line is known as caster angle.

Our stock dc5 castor angle is not that much, same as other road cars because we use it on the road taking consideration uneven road wear and tear like our malaysian road. Caster kit usually suitable for track purpose. If use on road where u have high caster angle it will wear out and give stress to the top mount bush or the pillow ball bearing (pillow ball top mount).

Usually castor kit either custom or aftermarket they design it with antidive where the bush is slanted at an angle for better braking. One of my friend had fabricated custom kit for his racecar and his cost is close to RM3000. Aftermarket castor kit is slightly more than the custom made ones.
If you want to check our dc5 caster angle just go to an alignment shop and get your car on the alignment machine and check the castor.

---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:49 PM ----------

Ali, the RCA and castor kit don't make the tie rod level. The tie rod level is the subject of the car's ride height/trim height. And also what makes the tie rod level is the strut arm...the mugen sport absorber has lower strut arm to counter the bumpsteer issue. The US made Zeta-R coilover has also lower strut arm that makes the tie rod level.
Note: RCA is located at the lower arm ball joint and castor kit at the lower arm bush A & B.
 
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Thanks wafs for the great info. I know ohlin hv lower strut. Js hv straight strut. Some Taiwan made suspension also hv straight strut. The best I've see Is moton don't know how many way suspension. Even the strut are adjustable. Haha. But the price is about 20k already.

I seen a few dc5 track car with inverted tie rod already. Hope that our custom tie rod will hv better quality than the aftermarket one. Still waiting for the prototype.
 
Positive casters allow more negative camber for the out side wheel , this will allow the car to have better turn in. The RCA can realign the RC of a lowered car, but since what the market offered are all predetermined in height, therfore more adjust to certain part is required to make it perfect.

The offset pillow ball bushing give about 3 degree more -casters as a FF cars cannot have too much casters like a FR cars. this is sufficient and at a safe level for all street and track use.
Wear on pillow ball are due to installation and poor quality issue. The angle is not that great to sustain heavy wear and tear. All suspension parts with buhsing need special ways to install proper fitment , this is somthing most shops just ignore or are too ignorance about it

There are good quality pilow ball with teflon liner for self lubrication availbale, and been tested in MME DC5, DC2, EK, EG6. at 1/3 the prices of so call well known source. Sometime brand play too great a impression that people are paying too much or just getting low quality stuff.
 
Ali ... count me in for the inverted tie rod!
 

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