What Standalone ECU is better?

[glanza]

I thought Profec E01 is a boost controller? Standalone can have display, plug in your notebook and place your notebook on dashboard. Can already lo .. You got numbers everywhere .. lolx

Before going further, always ask yourself. How much horse you want to satisfy you? Can your budget cope with it? NA is almost rm1000 for one wheel horse power. Some internal engine stuff co-related with each other, by just changing one part doesn't help much (eg, changing a high profile cam >264 without unleashing the rev limit)

Here is my story,
I'm one hell of lucky bastard. Bought the car, equip with SVT and dyno-ed 135whp (stock internals and ECU). Why it is 135whp? Extractor (4-1 Cusco) and Exhaust for my case. The final climb of the graph is at >7500rpm where it jump from 125 to final 135. Is it helpful for the final 500rpm, an increase of 10whp? You hardly feel it if you got a numb ass. The car's character is just a normal SVT that has a power of 125whp up to 7500rpm. Can't even outdrag a stock healthy BT (tried). My point is, the car dyno-ed peak 135whp at 8000rpm but the mid to high range rpm is a 1.6, 20valve SVT's strength. Here on, still determine to get more power and value for my pocket.

What i did?
Converted to map (open with trumpet), C160 Gbox, and a FPR. Dyno-ed again, same old 135whp. Stack the graph over the old dyno, same peak but mid to high increase a steady 10 - 15whp. Car character changes again. Shorter gear ratio, higher torque (13.xx vs 16.16kg). It definitely feels more power and the fact tells me too.

Mid of enjoying this SVT,
Preparing for track day, bought a bottle of Shell HX7 for an oil change. During track day, engine overheated with an oil temp >150' due to fake Shell HX7 that i got from 'petrol station'. Repair it with best of BT with SVT's parts this time. (hybrid colour 20v) . Car is out, running and dyno-ed. Peak increase to 141whp with a higher mid to high (about 3whp) comparing to the 2nd graph.

What this car has under the hood?
A mixture of the very best colours 20v into one. Usual extractor and exhaust combo. Trumpet with FPR. A thin slice of metal head gasket. My AFR for now without any piggyback / standalone is bad for plugs. Idling, a whoop ass 12 - 12.5. Full throttle till peak, 10.8 - 11.5. Some of you know what is my next upgrade already by now.

Can't imagine what it is going to be if the AFR in a proper zone. Can't wait for it too.
Lolx ...

chew, what is that oil for? oil treatment ah? or booster?

 

[lkeong88]

It is normal engine oil that you can get at shell petrol stations

 

[frecoz]

i think emanage has a display that sold separately called E-01..anyone can confirm it?

ya..ya.. thanks for the info.. i search on yahoo..


Greddy E-01 E-Manage Programmer
Greddy E-01 E-Manage Programmer is a superior substitute to the Greddy Support Tool. It will allow you program the E-manage without the need for a laptop or the Greddy Support Tool.

i think microtech got... but have to buy it separately.

no need display wan la. u wan ur car kena pecah is it? XD

no lah.. choi2.. huhuhu.. put in hidden place la.. hahaha.. i look its cooler on my frens car, he put safc.. there is rpm blinking, speed blinking, etc.. fuh.. i also dont know what other in there means.. kekekeke

 

[pcmoddingmy]

Interesting stuff sifoo km_chew. I wish I was as lucky as you... huhu
At the end of the day, I think the dyno machine also matters a lot. I've personally seen 20V STV with toda cams and Mines ECU + piggyback hitting only about 150hp at Trial (Dynojet), which is quite unacceptable seeing that a stock 20V (with OEM parts) can easily hit 140hp. IMO, 138hp for stock BT is already quite strong and gaining the extra hp with FPR, intake & exhaust mods should easily pump it to around 140hp. But again, it depends on where you dyno.
I dare say that some dynos (eg Dyno Dynamics) will definitely not show that much hp and certainly will make most ppl sad.... hehehe
Anyways, just my two cents... ;)

 

[glanza]

Interesting stuff sifoo km_chew. I wish I was as lucky as you... huhu
At the end of the day, I think the dyno machine also matters a lot. I've personally seen 20V STV with toda cams and Mines ECU + piggyback hitting only about 150hp at Trial (Dynojet), which is quite unacceptable seeing that a stock 20V (with OEM parts) can easily hit 140hp. IMO, 138hp for stock BT is already quite strong and gaining the extra hp with FPR, intake & exhaust mods should easily pump it to around 140hp. But again, it depends on where you dyno.
I dare say that some dynos (eg Dyno Dynamics) will definitely not show that much hp and certainly will make most ppl sad.... hehehe
Anyways, just my two cents... ;)

so moral of the story, dyno your car at the same place..rite?

 

[km_chew]

Dyno to see your AFR, not your horse. Lower efficient horse will wallop a big horse.

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

I have one friend with BT stock std,except trumpet and FPR (set at 2.5bar)...AFR is like crazy,super rich like turbo engine,WOT at high rpm in the region of 10++ AFR,why??? My head cannot think anymore.

 

[pcmoddingmy]

I have one friend with BT stock std,except trumpet and FPR (set at 2.5bar)...AFR is like crazy,super rich like turbo engine,WOT at high rpm in the region of 10++ AFR,why??? My head cannot think anymore.

Bro, if around 10 AFR, its richer than turbo setup already... hehe
Tried swapping out the ECU? Coz sometimes my ECU also will go crazy, especially when cruising.
After my project is completed, I might visit sifu wong to check out my ECU and prolly restore it.

 

[cuscostrutbrace]

Bro, if around 10 AFR, its richer than turbo setup already... hehe
Tried swapping out the ECU? Coz sometimes my ECU also will go crazy, especially when cruising.
After my project is completed, I might visit sifu wong to check out my ECU and prolly restore it.

Already did...first he use Auto BT ecu,super rich...when cruising the AFR damn rich around 10++,at first when accelerate its ok,but when the vacuum stabilize back during cruise steady speed,the AFR will be rich.Not sure whether my wideband meter playing tricks with me but this gives me headache...

Then swap to BT 6MT ecu...also same..

Then try another MAP sensor..also same...

Damn cant think anymore...after CNY i will bedah siasat that car...check all the wiring,sensors,vacuums...etc...

Could it be the O2 sensor? But my SVT+BT hybrid also no O2 sensor...never have problem,fuel save too..

 

[ryzzal]

i think emanage has a display that sold separately called E-01..anyone can confirm it?

profec e-01 is a boost controller cum emanage display & tuning tool cum boost meter cum rev meter...

 

[aziziell]

Betul jugak agaknya,haha

Injector belum check la tapi macam konfem 4age..

Aku rasa ada hantu raya la duduk dalam itu enjin...injector spray minyak,dia minum separuh,separuh masuk enjin...pastu ecu detect lean,kasi tambah lagi minyak...

kancil aku injector evo 530cc lagi dasyat hahaha

 

[man_zuhdi]

GO 4 Standalone... very good for further moddddd kihkih

 

[albertkohcs979]

Bro's, is MS3 pro standalone ECU are good for RVR 4G63 T engine?
How it is compare to Microtech & Haltech?
Around 5.6k include installation.

 

[Izso]

It's not the device. The standalones you listed out are pretty good already. Unless you have a very special setup in your engine, all of these ECUs will work great as long as the installer+tuner knows what he's doing.

 

[pangyau]

ECU selection very subjective, depends on your requirement.
There are plenty advance management in the market which is very expensive.
For normal usage (daily, beginner tracking) you probably need something you familiar with.

I choose Haltech as it very software friendly to me.

 

[synchron]

Adaptronic all the way, already proven with dyno results, street drivability, drag and track performance in west and east malaysia.

Adaptronic is the best function ecu for it price range.