What Eng Oil!?!?!?!

tom's said:
thanks guys.......the reason i wanna use thicker semi syn oil coz wanna make my eng last longer this time.......pokai already overhaul 4 times.........maybe i'll go for castrol 15-50 semis if they have.........

castrol dun have 15w-50 lar..
 
zul....maybe ask shell next to my workplace to sponsor......hahahaha........ but i think i already know the answer "Dream on".......hahahaha

might just opp for 15-50 or 10-40 semis............
 
See this link: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm

"The higher the spread between the bottom number and the top number the more VI improvers are relied on for maintaining the viscosity. Better to keep the numbers closer."

Here is another interesting read:
http://s4.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=0DBCAG2U1BECV3JXS5UQ2PO2BT

50 or 60wt oil will surely increase your car's consumption and also lengthen your acceleration time. I don't think a freshly built motor like tom's will have any probs running 30wt oil. I do redline my car at least once a day, and I've been running 10-30w for the last 2,000km. Only very slight oil consumption, nothing abnormal. And the engine already has 50k+ mileage since it was rebuilt in 04.

60wt oils are great for turbos because it helps to reduce oil dilution when the turbo runs rich. Not so great for high revving NA motors.
 
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erm... most 10w60 oil discussion is in bmw forum, saying that its factory recomended as i read. remember one of them saying that there is no point using oil of less verocity rating than the recomended 10w60.

just curious that bimmer usually run on high reving NA also right? well, quite high reving for such big displacement engine anyway. so why 10w60?
 
in japan GT tom's teams using castrol 10W60 as well for their V8 engine..... got alot of balance my boss kept.....thot of trying it out.....hahaha
 
but then again is our engine not high reving na engine?

basically this is the thing we should consider, our engine is old engine, 10 years old or something. I know new car is recomended to run on thinner oil, but old engine isn't. like the 4ag is recomended to run on 10w40 since it get so hot, but thats in japan, we here are even hotter, its like japan on summer whole year long. then why can't we use thicker oil to compensate for the heat we get here?

not everyone is rich to overhaul their old engine once in a while, especially those who work their engine hard. Its just like EFN's engine i bought from him, rebuilded in 2004, and now its consuming more oil than normal, thus i have to use thicker oil so they won't slip through the worn out piston ring too much.

same thing happen to my mom's wira, she use 10w30 and it consumed all the oil there is within 1000km, and the engine is making funny sound. use back 20w50 and things are back to normal. and thats why i wanna say we need thicker oil for our weather here.
 
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Its just like EFN's engine i bought from him, rebuilded in 2004, and now its consuming more oil than normal, thus i have to use thicker oil so they won't slip through the worn out piston ring too much.

Yes you are right. Also i remember seeing someones 4age manual that says to use thicker engine oil when the engine gets older.

Big engines like V8 produces high torque. Based on this, i can imagine the cylinder walls and cylylinder themselves flex a little. So using a thicker oil to fill the gaps makes much sense.

For me i have always used 20/50 mineral. Not much problems. Now i'm using 10/30 just for testing. If i want to write about it, sure damn long. But i guess many could figure out the outcome.
 
Anyone heard of AM1 motor oil kah? Was given a demo by the sales guy using that friction machine (don't know what's that called) and the results seemed impressive. But canot find any info on it in the web though. Anyone here ever heard / used it and comments?
 
the funny thing is, thicker viscocity will not be able to lube properly at high revs, and that's where the rings and bearings get worn out, cos the oil can't reach the place fast enough. so when your tolerances become bigger, you'll have to stick with thick oil to minimize consumption. :retarded: So, if we start off with high viscosity, we'll most probably have to stick with it.

So, my point is, if u got a fresh rebuilt, go for lower viscosity to minimize wear at high rpms/sudden acceleration. then you can get both your protection and high revs at the same time....
 
fandango said:
the funny thing is, thicker viscocity will not be able to lube properly at high revs, and that's where the rings and bearings get worn out, cos the oil can't reach the place fast enough. so when your tolerances become bigger, you'll have to stick with thick oil to minimize consumption. :retarded: So, if we start off with high viscosity, we'll most probably have to stick with it.

So, my point is, if u got a fresh rebuilt, go for lower viscosity to minimize wear at high rpms/sudden acceleration. then you can get both your protection and high revs at the same time....
that is for sure for the freshly rebuilded engine part. but i was told by an engineering student, that, thicker oil have better protection and lubrication compare to thiner oil, which i asume must be compared with engine oil of same manufacturing technology (can't compare mineral with ester base oil etc).

yes the engine might be running abit 'heavier' if run on thicker oil, but the protection is better.

btw, just in case anyone know this, i heard fully syn oil feel 'lighter' than mineral with same viscocity, right?
 
here what forumner genie47 has to say about lower viscosity oils. genie47 is THE oil sifu in autoworld:

"Film strength from a thin oil is always stronger than a thick oil.

What you are more concerned about in an engine is the piston rings. Thin
oil protects well here. The bearings, thin oil doesn't protect well here
but this part of the engine hardly sees a lot of wear compared to the
piston ring where all the action takes place. Anyway, the barrier additives
come into action here.

Furthermore, you want flow. Oil flow cannot be measured directly. Oil
pressure indirectly measures oil flow but high oil pressure doesn't mean
good flow of oil. It could just mean that the oil has a hard time flowing
and the oil pump is pushing really hard.

Wear from a thin oil is not much different from a thick oil. A thin oil
however will enable an engine to run cooler."
 
so basically thin oil protects the piston ring, while thick oil protects the bearing? okay understood :D, my piston ring is far from good already, nothing much to protect, heck, i'll just use thicker oil.

btw, alvin, Elf got 15w50 for both semi-syn and fully syn, and racing oil too! only used elf oil once, not happy with it, but thats 10w30, maybe the 15w50 is good.
 
Hey fandango, genie47 drives a TE-47? hahaha.

Rollakid, i think he took out the parts for test on the lubricants. What is said actually means there is no oil that is perfect for both piston ring and bearing lubrication. hahaha. I'm dumbfounded.

Rollakid, u are rght in sticking to the 20/50. If you use 10/30 now, i think you could do a free community service for dengue fogging.:_:
 
Looks like you guys missed the part on barrier additives. Thick or thin, if the barrier additives are poor or insufficient, you may still get burnt bearings under sudden acceleration / high load.

hmm...looks like the link i posted earlier is dead...go here instead...

http://www.savefile.com/files.php?fid=4297101

the oil test was done by an australian auto mag. read it and be shocked.
 
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netmatrix said:
Rollakid, u are rght in sticking to the 20/50. If you use 10/30 now, i think you could do a free community service for dengue fogging.:_:

i'm using 15w40 now :_: engine oil consumption on the high side, but nothing to alarm about so far...
 

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