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<blockquote data-quote="vwmania" data-source="post: 1261464" data-attributes="member: 8882"><p>Ignition Wires</p><p></p><p>From someone on the RAMVA Newsgroup wrote - I would stick with the stock type ignition wires as they often have a lower resistance than silicone wires with graphite leads.</p><p></p><p>Rob reported that his original set of spark plug wires stayed in the car 18 years till they became hardened and brittle. Dave, being obsessive and ultra-conservative, replaced his after only two years.</p><p></p><p>Dave wrote to John Connolly (Aircooled.Net) - I'm not clear about the plug wires for use with the CDI system. Some say the sturdier wires (i.e., Jacob's or Megavolt) are necessary; others say the stock wires are just fine (mine are almost new -- I'm loath to replace them already).</p><p></p><p>John responded - If they are almost new, don't change them. However, give them a check once in a while, because the additional spark energy can break them down quicker than with the weaker stock ignition.</p><p></p><p>Rob wrote - There is a possibility that the STANDARD plug leads will occasionally arc.</p><p></p><p>~~~</p><p></p><p>Spark Plugs</p><p></p><p>See our article on Reading Spark Plugs.</p><p></p><p>Someone on the RAMVA Newsgroup reported good success with NGK spark plugs.</p><p></p><p>Dave wrote to Rob - My Bug is starting to run rough. I think its those cheap Champion plugs I put in a few months ago, just because they were hanging around my work bench. I'm going to try to find a set of the NGK plugs -- B5HS for the 12mm ones, if memory serves. Rob responded - B5HS is the standard electrode plug. These are the ones I'm using, and they are working.</p><p></p><p>Rob responded - I have the NGK Spark Plug Guide in front of me...</p><p></p><p>The NGK letters and numbers mean -</p><p></p><p>B - The thread size -- 14mm plug (A-18mm, C-10mm etc.).</p><p>5 - heat range - 2 is very hot, 13 is very cold.</p><p>H - thread length 12.7mm (E for 19mm).</p><p>S - "standard" electrode type (Y for grooved, P for platinum, V for precious metals, etc.</p><p></p><p>You might come across an additional letter for the plug gap -- 9 for .9mm, 10 for 1mm, 11 for 1.1mm, and 13 for 1.3mm (but not on the plugs suitable for VW).</p><p></p><p>The 6 heat rating should be OK - it's just a fraction "colder" than the 5, and should be OK in your hotter climate. "Colder" for a spark plug means that it gets rid of heat faster than a "hot" plug.</p><p></p><p>But you said B6SS - the character after the number should only be an H or E indicating the length of the threads. There is no S length - only H and E. If you really meant B6HS, then yes - that should be fine.</p><p></p><p>Black and oily usually means that the engine is starting to burn a little oil (starting to get worn). If you use a colder plug (the B6HS) there is a possibility that they will oil up more, but there's no way of telling untill you try them and see if they oil up too fast and stop working.</p><p></p><p>Rob responded to another query - Just to check, are your old plugs the 1/2 thread, or the longer 3/4 inch thread? If your car has the newer style replacement heads (they are interchangeable), they will need the 3/4" plugs -- B5ES ("E" for "extended" thread).</p><p></p><p>With the engine out, it might be possible to shine a torch down a plug hole and check. If the heads are the newer 3/4 inch type, and you have 1/2 inch plugs in them, you'd see a blackened section of unused thread at the bottom of the hole. The short plugs will fire in the newer heads, but less efficiently, as they will be "buried" inside the heads.</p><p></p><p>Regarding grooved electrodes, Rob wrote - B5HY is the equivalent grooved electrode version. The multiple electrodes tend to shield the spark from the mixture a little, which is okay in a slow revving aircraft engine, but not so good in a higher revving auto engine. Then they developed a "surface electrode" type, which had the cavity filled with bakelite or similar, and the spark jumped from inward facing 'bumps' on the rim to the inner electrode, all of which were flush with the bakelite filling the cavity. Supposed to be harder to clog, because there was no cavity to hold the gunk. Not even used in cars to my knowledge. NGK do make a grooved electrode plug though, and this is supposed to make the spark on the outer edge of the side electrode, instead of jumping to the center electrode right in the middle. Supposed to eliminate any possible shielding of the spark -- more exposure to the fuel/air mix.</p><p></p><p>In response to a query, Rob wrote - The VW engine works best with Bosch WA8C or NGK B5HS plugs. (Champion L87Ys are the right heat range too, but they have cut threads -- not rolled -- and tend to strip out the aluminium heads.) You can do a plug test by running down the road at a good speed (with the engine properly warmed up), and shutting off/declutching/turn engine off in the middle of the run, and coasting to a stop. This is necessary so the reading is not contaminated by any idling.</p><p></p><p>The plugs should have a grey/black thin coating on the rim of the threaded section. The center porcelain insulator should be off white, turning darker deeper into the plug (about 1/2 way down the insulator) and the tips of the outer electrodes should be grey/white, turning darker on the bend, to blend into the dark grey of the rim of the plug. Black/oily is a good indicator of a worn engine. Black/sooty means it's running too rich. Brown /whitish insulator and a 'white all over' outer electrode usually indicates lean running, often accompanied by a light coloured rim on the plug. If the rim has a speckled "pizza" appearance, the engine is detonating (even if you can't hear it), and you try a different brand of fuel of go to the next higher octane fuel. And of course if the centre electrode has rounded edges instead of a 'squared off' end, and the outer electrodes are looking thin and burned, the plugs are past their best and should be replaced.</p><p></p><p>If you can avoid using oxygenated (MTBE) fuels, do so -- your engine will run smoother. Oxygenates result in less "fuel" in the fuel, and make old carburetted cars like the beetle run lean, which means running hotter, and they don't like running hotter since they are a hot running engine anyway. If you don't have a choice, try switching brands, and DO use a "pump octane" of at least 87 -- maybe higher if it needs it to avoid detonation.</p><p></p><p>~~~</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="vwmania, post: 1261464, member: 8882"] Ignition Wires From someone on the RAMVA Newsgroup wrote - I would stick with the stock type ignition wires as they often have a lower resistance than silicone wires with graphite leads. Rob reported that his original set of spark plug wires stayed in the car 18 years till they became hardened and brittle. Dave, being obsessive and ultra-conservative, replaced his after only two years. Dave wrote to John Connolly (Aircooled.Net) - I'm not clear about the plug wires for use with the CDI system. Some say the sturdier wires (i.e., Jacob's or Megavolt) are necessary; others say the stock wires are just fine (mine are almost new -- I'm loath to replace them already). John responded - If they are almost new, don't change them. However, give them a check once in a while, because the additional spark energy can break them down quicker than with the weaker stock ignition. Rob wrote - There is a possibility that the STANDARD plug leads will occasionally arc. ~~~ Spark Plugs See our article on Reading Spark Plugs. Someone on the RAMVA Newsgroup reported good success with NGK spark plugs. Dave wrote to Rob - My Bug is starting to run rough. I think its those cheap Champion plugs I put in a few months ago, just because they were hanging around my work bench. I'm going to try to find a set of the NGK plugs -- B5HS for the 12mm ones, if memory serves. Rob responded - B5HS is the standard electrode plug. These are the ones I'm using, and they are working. Rob responded - I have the NGK Spark Plug Guide in front of me... The NGK letters and numbers mean - B - The thread size -- 14mm plug (A-18mm, C-10mm etc.). 5 - heat range - 2 is very hot, 13 is very cold. H - thread length 12.7mm (E for 19mm). S - "standard" electrode type (Y for grooved, P for platinum, V for precious metals, etc. You might come across an additional letter for the plug gap -- 9 for .9mm, 10 for 1mm, 11 for 1.1mm, and 13 for 1.3mm (but not on the plugs suitable for VW). The 6 heat rating should be OK - it's just a fraction "colder" than the 5, and should be OK in your hotter climate. "Colder" for a spark plug means that it gets rid of heat faster than a "hot" plug. But you said B6SS - the character after the number should only be an H or E indicating the length of the threads. There is no S length - only H and E. If you really meant B6HS, then yes - that should be fine. Black and oily usually means that the engine is starting to burn a little oil (starting to get worn). If you use a colder plug (the B6HS) there is a possibility that they will oil up more, but there's no way of telling untill you try them and see if they oil up too fast and stop working. Rob responded to another query - Just to check, are your old plugs the 1/2 thread, or the longer 3/4 inch thread? If your car has the newer style replacement heads (they are interchangeable), they will need the 3/4" plugs -- B5ES ("E" for "extended" thread). With the engine out, it might be possible to shine a torch down a plug hole and check. If the heads are the newer 3/4 inch type, and you have 1/2 inch plugs in them, you'd see a blackened section of unused thread at the bottom of the hole. The short plugs will fire in the newer heads, but less efficiently, as they will be "buried" inside the heads. Regarding grooved electrodes, Rob wrote - B5HY is the equivalent grooved electrode version. The multiple electrodes tend to shield the spark from the mixture a little, which is okay in a slow revving aircraft engine, but not so good in a higher revving auto engine. Then they developed a "surface electrode" type, which had the cavity filled with bakelite or similar, and the spark jumped from inward facing 'bumps' on the rim to the inner electrode, all of which were flush with the bakelite filling the cavity. Supposed to be harder to clog, because there was no cavity to hold the gunk. Not even used in cars to my knowledge. NGK do make a grooved electrode plug though, and this is supposed to make the spark on the outer edge of the side electrode, instead of jumping to the center electrode right in the middle. Supposed to eliminate any possible shielding of the spark -- more exposure to the fuel/air mix. In response to a query, Rob wrote - The VW engine works best with Bosch WA8C or NGK B5HS plugs. (Champion L87Ys are the right heat range too, but they have cut threads -- not rolled -- and tend to strip out the aluminium heads.) You can do a plug test by running down the road at a good speed (with the engine properly warmed up), and shutting off/declutching/turn engine off in the middle of the run, and coasting to a stop. This is necessary so the reading is not contaminated by any idling. The plugs should have a grey/black thin coating on the rim of the threaded section. The center porcelain insulator should be off white, turning darker deeper into the plug (about 1/2 way down the insulator) and the tips of the outer electrodes should be grey/white, turning darker on the bend, to blend into the dark grey of the rim of the plug. Black/oily is a good indicator of a worn engine. Black/sooty means it's running too rich. Brown /whitish insulator and a 'white all over' outer electrode usually indicates lean running, often accompanied by a light coloured rim on the plug. If the rim has a speckled "pizza" appearance, the engine is detonating (even if you can't hear it), and you try a different brand of fuel of go to the next higher octane fuel. And of course if the centre electrode has rounded edges instead of a 'squared off' end, and the outer electrodes are looking thin and burned, the plugs are past their best and should be replaced. If you can avoid using oxygenated (MTBE) fuels, do so -- your engine will run smoother. Oxygenates result in less "fuel" in the fuel, and make old carburetted cars like the beetle run lean, which means running hotter, and they don't like running hotter since they are a hot running engine anyway. If you don't have a choice, try switching brands, and DO use a "pump octane" of at least 87 -- maybe higher if it needs it to avoid detonation. ~~~ [/QUOTE]
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