hoho...bro your tyre so big......doesn't it hit your fender?.....i want to change my tyre like yours but my current rim look like it will hit the fender?
Satria Neo Performance Hideout.
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hoho...bro your tyre so big......doesn't it hit your fender?.....i want to change my tyre like yours but my current rim look like it will hit the fender?
fishyogurt
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how much money u used for ur Mods?? total ＲＭ？？
after ur modification...your fuel consumption how?? full tank can run how long??
---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:37 PM ----------
after ur modification...your fuel consumption how?? full tank can run how long??
after ur modification...your fuel consumption how?? full tank can run how long??
---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:37 PM ----------
how much money u used for ur Mods?? total ＲＭ？？
after ur modification...your fuel consumption how?? full tank can run how long??
Where can i make proper grounding ? or any workshop can make it?
Hi, with enough researches of points to be grounded, best cables to use in terms of thickness [awg], a good junction and plenty of cable lugs. I believe you can diy it neatly yourself as aftermarket sets might not come with exact length. Don't forget heat shrink tubes and small cable ties.
HAHA i juz discovered this thread
hello guys,
im looking to port my stock throttle body for neo cps.Im new here i dont know if a thread already exists for this topic.I just need your 2cents on this.Should i port and if yes what are the pros and cons.Is there any larger throttle body in the ,arket for neo cps?maybe from works engineering??
im looking to port my stock throttle body for neo cps.Im new here i dont know if a thread already exists for this topic.I just need your 2cents on this.Should i port and if yes what are the pros and cons.Is there any larger throttle body in the ,arket for neo cps?maybe from works engineering??
Kagerosan
Known Member
hello aneelraj. larger or bigger doesnt mean better flow. i think the stock throttle body is just nice for 100-160hp car. i bored my stock throttle body (make the tb's surface abit rough - not smooth). u can feel the ur car more response, and feel a little g force when accelerating.
HEY THANK MAN...After ages somebody actually replied....Yes..i like that rough feeling..im used to driving an 1981 Alfa Romeo Alfetta 2.0 with dual 45mm Webber Carbs...Man that was rough and i miss that feeling...i can't go back to old cars for now because of some personal reasons..anyway thanks for that info..if i may know..how much bigger did u pot it and is it compatible with the stock intake manifold?
Kagerosan
Known Member
hello. ermm.. its hard to explain how much bigger. if u see the stock TB, u can see there's surface that restrict air flow. u bore the surface make it bigger and a bit rough. and yes, it is compatible with stock the intake manifold. after that, u need to do TB learning by using PDT and it costs less than rm50 only. this learning is to make sure the ecu learn new TB opening and get familiar with that
dabok max7
Known Member
aneeltri.. u can try dori2.. u can find it at fb Dori Dori autoworks
faris.salleh
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Dudes
I have a 2011 Neo R3 bought in March 2011 and spent some time doing tests and concepts. I would not recommend boring the Throttle Body unless your engine is the older Campro DOHC without CPS and VIM/IAFM. You will find that it does not make any difference. If you are trying to mod Campro engines fitted with IAFM or VIM, please leave half of what you learn from Mitsubishi/Honda engine mods at the door.
Major difference is that VIM/IAFM is activated by ECU at around 4500 rpm. IAFM uses vacuum line, a cheap alternative but not necessarily bad compared to VIM. It uses a short path for high rpm torque and a longer path for low rpm torque. It is the single reason why you don't have a torque dip at 3000 rpm. The short runner comes in and the resonance effect increases torque.
Think of it a a plenum chamber that changes size at 4500rpm. Changing the VIM chamber to a fixed plenum will make the torque dip return.
This is a fly by wire system where there is no physical link between throttle body and accelerator. The Oxygen sensor at the exhaust and the MAP sensor at the intake plenum plays more vital part in the fuel injection and timing retard/advance. If you bore the TB, the MAP sensor will report changes and in later engine runs, the ECU will relearn and see the new air intake pressure and change the timing advance/retard.
The best bang for your money would be to fit the intake snorkel from Campro Neo. Yes the older version. There is significant restriction in the intake of CPS cars (all version). I think it is to reduce noise coming from the engine. The bigger size snorkel will help to reduce restriction on intake. You will not get a power increase but it will make your engine more responsive to accelerator input. Somehow I've managed to get better FC at low engine revs around 2-3000rpm coasting flat. Recorded 4.7l/100km as compared to 5.3 before.
The next best thing is to get a proper tuned exhaust header. Get one that has a large turning radius and really tuned. The cap ayam ones are only good to reduce weight and nothing much. A really cap ayam one will make your power + torque fail. Nothing beats a good engineered solution.
If you have the money, change the gear ratios and the final drive. IMHO this is the jewel of the Neo R3. It is sweet.
If you really need to have quad throttle, know that it will not solve the inherent torque dip. If you have them, its good for drag runs from more than 3000 rpm. Keep it in the high revs and it should be pretty happy.
A new fangled coloured intake filter does not make much difference. It was good for carb days. You really don't need to change it.
Good luck in your modding days!
I have a 2011 Neo R3 bought in March 2011 and spent some time doing tests and concepts. I would not recommend boring the Throttle Body unless your engine is the older Campro DOHC without CPS and VIM/IAFM. You will find that it does not make any difference. If you are trying to mod Campro engines fitted with IAFM or VIM, please leave half of what you learn from Mitsubishi/Honda engine mods at the door.
Major difference is that VIM/IAFM is activated by ECU at around 4500 rpm. IAFM uses vacuum line, a cheap alternative but not necessarily bad compared to VIM. It uses a short path for high rpm torque and a longer path for low rpm torque. It is the single reason why you don't have a torque dip at 3000 rpm. The short runner comes in and the resonance effect increases torque.
Think of it a a plenum chamber that changes size at 4500rpm. Changing the VIM chamber to a fixed plenum will make the torque dip return.
This is a fly by wire system where there is no physical link between throttle body and accelerator. The Oxygen sensor at the exhaust and the MAP sensor at the intake plenum plays more vital part in the fuel injection and timing retard/advance. If you bore the TB, the MAP sensor will report changes and in later engine runs, the ECU will relearn and see the new air intake pressure and change the timing advance/retard.
The best bang for your money would be to fit the intake snorkel from Campro Neo. Yes the older version. There is significant restriction in the intake of CPS cars (all version). I think it is to reduce noise coming from the engine. The bigger size snorkel will help to reduce restriction on intake. You will not get a power increase but it will make your engine more responsive to accelerator input. Somehow I've managed to get better FC at low engine revs around 2-3000rpm coasting flat. Recorded 4.7l/100km as compared to 5.3 before.
The next best thing is to get a proper tuned exhaust header. Get one that has a large turning radius and really tuned. The cap ayam ones are only good to reduce weight and nothing much. A really cap ayam one will make your power + torque fail. Nothing beats a good engineered solution.
If you have the money, change the gear ratios and the final drive. IMHO this is the jewel of the Neo R3. It is sweet.
If you really need to have quad throttle, know that it will not solve the inherent torque dip. If you have them, its good for drag runs from more than 3000 rpm. Keep it in the high revs and it should be pretty happy.
A new fangled coloured intake filter does not make much difference. It was good for carb days. You really don't need to change it.
Good luck in your modding days!
holysniper
Known Member
so is there significant performance increase if porting campro only neo?:)
Just ported my Throttle body at Dori Dori shah alam few days ago. Car feels smoother and revs up better after that. FC , improve very slighty but i'm just happy it doesn't increase coz you gain more power.
rm110 including ECU tuning. The tauke there is a racer and he knows what he's doing. Very professional. Going to mod my car there from now on.
Thanks to Kagerosan for recommending me to go there. =)
rm110 including ECU tuning. The tauke there is a racer and he knows what he's doing. Very professional. Going to mod my car there from now on.
Thanks to Kagerosan for recommending me to go there. =)
zairyizwan
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u should try on adding some anti roll bars, that should do the problemm
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hey bros, my advise in starting to tune up ur stock ride would be from ground up.....
1. decide your mod spec.... (daily driven street legal, drag, track....)
2. then get good tyres n light rims (forged is the best)
3. improve ur brakes from pads, caliper n disc, braided hoses, etc..... a car must also stop on time as when needed!
4. invest in a fully adjustable suspension and do a proper height, bound n rebound, spring rate calculation and get it accurately balanced and aligned.....
5. get chassis stiffening bars (aluminium better) and PU bushings for joints, suspension links, etc....
take some time off from modding and get to learn about your car's new handling.... get yourself to feel the car.... the limits and tolerance in handling have been significantly improved........U NEED TIME.... and by now you should have a proper platform to receive n handle more power....
then the MOD stage can start with A or B..... depending on subjective person....
A
get a piggyback or standalone ECU and get it tuned properly... this will improve power of your engine almost definitely....
B
do all bolt-ons 1st....
- open pod/CAI
- plug cables
- plugs
- tuned header and exhaust system (depending on type of application)
- light crank pulleys n adj cam pulleys
- fuel pressure regulators
- proper grounding kits n volt stabilizers
once u have done A & B, then u must also improve on your lubrications n fuelling...
- use fully syntetic engine oil and change it regularly
- use high end gearbox oil and follow oil change schedule n application
- same goes with brake fluid, pwr steering fluid, coolant maintenance
- go for higher ron fuels (ron 97 and above)
get your piggyback/standalone ecu tuned after this point and by now, take a bit more time off to understand ur car again.... learn on its behaviour on the edge when its pushed hard, learn how it reacts in bends n hard brakings, power-in n power-out in wet, etc....
then comes C which is.....
- higher profile cams
- stage 3 port n polish with angle valve cut
- better clutch
- high comp pistons
- forged internals
- re-bore block
- etc, etc depends on ur budget
or go BOLT-ON or dont mod anything until u have used the engine for quite some time then get mivec or gsr.....
bear in mind.... rm30000 spend on making an NA car go fast will not produce the same effect as rm30000 making a turbo car go fast.....
1. decide your mod spec.... (daily driven street legal, drag, track....)
2. then get good tyres n light rims (forged is the best)
3. improve ur brakes from pads, caliper n disc, braided hoses, etc..... a car must also stop on time as when needed!
4. invest in a fully adjustable suspension and do a proper height, bound n rebound, spring rate calculation and get it accurately balanced and aligned.....
5. get chassis stiffening bars (aluminium better) and PU bushings for joints, suspension links, etc....
take some time off from modding and get to learn about your car's new handling.... get yourself to feel the car.... the limits and tolerance in handling have been significantly improved........U NEED TIME.... and by now you should have a proper platform to receive n handle more power....
then the MOD stage can start with A or B..... depending on subjective person....
A
get a piggyback or standalone ECU and get it tuned properly... this will improve power of your engine almost definitely....
B
do all bolt-ons 1st....
- open pod/CAI
- plug cables
- plugs
- tuned header and exhaust system (depending on type of application)
- light crank pulleys n adj cam pulleys
- fuel pressure regulators
- proper grounding kits n volt stabilizers
once u have done A & B, then u must also improve on your lubrications n fuelling...
- use fully syntetic engine oil and change it regularly
- use high end gearbox oil and follow oil change schedule n application
- same goes with brake fluid, pwr steering fluid, coolant maintenance
- go for higher ron fuels (ron 97 and above)
get your piggyback/standalone ecu tuned after this point and by now, take a bit more time off to understand ur car again.... learn on its behaviour on the edge when its pushed hard, learn how it reacts in bends n hard brakings, power-in n power-out in wet, etc....
then comes C which is.....
- higher profile cams
- stage 3 port n polish with angle valve cut
- better clutch
- high comp pistons
- forged internals
- re-bore block
- etc, etc depends on ur budget
or go BOLT-ON or dont mod anything until u have used the engine for quite some time then get mivec or gsr.....
bear in mind.... rm30000 spend on making an NA car go fast will not produce the same effect as rm30000 making a turbo car go fast.....
Last edited:
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holysniper
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wat is that?
hahahah siapa-siapa mau join teh tarik session after chinese new year?:wavey:
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