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<<Overhaul/ SOHC VTEC/ B16A??>>>
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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 3030260" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>I meant compression itself is not a big issue, unless you go too much or too little.</p><p></p><p>Common compression for STOCK non-turbo street cars are 8.5-11. (11 is strictly the type R, I don't think other manufacturers go this high, usually about 10+ at most I think.</p><p></p><p>It's not much of an issue because depending on how much power is required, the engine will be designed with lower or higher compression.</p><p></p><p>If you want ultimate power, high compression is the way to go, but if you're just looking for a slight bump in torque without increasing displacement, increasing compression one choice, but within practical limits of course.</p><p></p><p>But if you mean compression as in how well the piston ring seals each cyclinder, then it's definitely a major issue.</p><p></p><p>That's why good mechanics will have a compression tester at least. It may not really tell much about the engine, but it does help in determining whether the piston rings are doing adequate (yes, this varies, <strong>no one</strong> can built the same engine twice, and end up with the exact same number) Minute differences when gapping the rings can result in differences. My ring gaps can vary between each cyclinders. I just make sure they don't exceed the manufacturers spec.. 0.2 inch or mm, I forget. If it exceeds, then I need a rebore, simple as that.</p><p></p><p>This is probably why most people feel that even same engines can give different outputs, because they do.</p><p></p><p>Engine comps for each cylinder can vary, but it's usually within 5%. Ring gaps ensure it falls within this range. </p><p></p><p>Then again, it's more PROFITABLE to sell the owner parts rather than tell them to overhaul the engine. The owner also usually more willing to UPGRADE than MAINTAIN usually.</p><p></p><p>Less likely:</p><p></p><p></p><p>More likely:</p><p></p><p>Sendiri fikir le.. :P</p><p></p><p></p><p>Bushing wise, </p><p></p><p>You can replace one by one, but if you replace with stock bushes, the worn ones will cause the new stock ones to break, depending on location of the worn bushes.</p><p></p><p>Replacing part of the suspension with polyurethane is also a surefire way to break the stock bushes already on the car (I've suffered from that, lol)</p><p></p><p>Replacing the bushes with stock bushes is expensive, so poly bushes will seem more tempting in terms of price. But you'd have to live with a little squeal every now and then, esp. when cruising very very slowly. quick suspension movement <strong>at higher speeds</strong> usually don't cause squealing (at least for me)</p><p></p><p>But one of the benefits (or disadvantage?) of having harder bushes than standard is the tightness. In my case, after using poly bushes, I have like ZERO PLAY at the steering. You can't sleep at the steering wheel, and if you're distracted, you can easily end up in the drain at the side of the road.</p><p></p><p>Other benefits is the fact that depending on how worn the stock ones are, is how well the tire wears. Because there is little to no toe change when accelerating or decelerating, tire wear is more even. But if the driver drives slower than his grandmother, obviously this does not apply to him.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 3030260, member: 27518"] I meant compression itself is not a big issue, unless you go too much or too little. Common compression for STOCK non-turbo street cars are 8.5-11. (11 is strictly the type R, I don't think other manufacturers go this high, usually about 10+ at most I think. It's not much of an issue because depending on how much power is required, the engine will be designed with lower or higher compression. If you want ultimate power, high compression is the way to go, but if you're just looking for a slight bump in torque without increasing displacement, increasing compression one choice, but within practical limits of course. But if you mean compression as in how well the piston ring seals each cyclinder, then it's definitely a major issue. That's why good mechanics will have a compression tester at least. It may not really tell much about the engine, but it does help in determining whether the piston rings are doing adequate (yes, this varies, [B]no one[/B] can built the same engine twice, and end up with the exact same number) Minute differences when gapping the rings can result in differences. My ring gaps can vary between each cyclinders. I just make sure they don't exceed the manufacturers spec.. 0.2 inch or mm, I forget. If it exceeds, then I need a rebore, simple as that. This is probably why most people feel that even same engines can give different outputs, because they do. Engine comps for each cylinder can vary, but it's usually within 5%. Ring gaps ensure it falls within this range. Then again, it's more PROFITABLE to sell the owner parts rather than tell them to overhaul the engine. The owner also usually more willing to UPGRADE than MAINTAIN usually. Less likely: More likely: Sendiri fikir le.. :P Bushing wise, You can replace one by one, but if you replace with stock bushes, the worn ones will cause the new stock ones to break, depending on location of the worn bushes. Replacing part of the suspension with polyurethane is also a surefire way to break the stock bushes already on the car (I've suffered from that, lol) Replacing the bushes with stock bushes is expensive, so poly bushes will seem more tempting in terms of price. But you'd have to live with a little squeal every now and then, esp. when cruising very very slowly. quick suspension movement [B]at higher speeds[/B] usually don't cause squealing (at least for me) But one of the benefits (or disadvantage?) of having harder bushes than standard is the tightness. In my case, after using poly bushes, I have like ZERO PLAY at the steering. You can't sleep at the steering wheel, and if you're distracted, you can easily end up in the drain at the side of the road. Other benefits is the fact that depending on how worn the stock ones are, is how well the tire wears. Because there is little to no toe change when accelerating or decelerating, tire wear is more even. But if the driver drives slower than his grandmother, obviously this does not apply to him. [/QUOTE]
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