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Message: <blockquote data-quote="defcon1" data-source="post: 1790603" data-attributes="member: 30064">Floorboards done. Front doors done... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile    :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" />My first observation on the installation...it's not easy. Especially if your car's in the sun... :sad_smile:I got up around 9am...and managed to get to Lee's (my mech) place at around 9.40 am. Needed to do this cos there just wasn't enough space to work at my place considering my open house in the evening. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a completely covered working area. So, half covered was the best I could do, and at least the car doors would open completely to provide max access to the car's interior.As I had morning coffee with Lee, his guys (no customers at the time) stripped the interior for me...seats, mouldings, etc. Seats are pretty easy...same as any other car...but the carpeting is irritating. It's designed to be put in before you put in the centre console...i.e. both the left and right sides are joined under the dash...so unless I wanted a nightmare in audio wiring, I'd have to find a way to do the car without taking out the carpet entirely... :sad_smile:Solved this problem by folding the carpet over from right to left and left to right, doing the car one half at a time.The next thing you notice is that the floorboards already have original bitumen pads of about 5mm thickness. Good stuff, but slightly hardened and they don't completely cover the floorboards nor all the flat panels. Plus, there is about 1cm of insulation material - the usual carpet/blanket looking type. These are good, and should not be thrown away, but laid back after after you lay your insulation materials.One last thing. Since the interior is empty, you might as well take the opportunity to take off the original rear speaker board, apply the bitumen to the metal panel and lay a 9 mm layer of insuflex on it. Improves your sound significantly. For this part of the car, you will want to use either Raammat or Dynamat, as it is hot.On my car...I had another irritation...1/2" of water under the passenger side of the car!!! Two things had happened...a) My a/c box had started leaking. Had to have it serviced...b) The bloody repair on the car after the accident I had...the silly guys had taken off the rubber tabs blocking the holes in the floorboards and didn't put them on again. So, at high speeds, in rain...water was forced through into the cabin. No wonder my car always smelled funny. And I thought it was "Essence of Deffy"... <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/laugh.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":laugh:" title="Laugh    :laugh:" data-shortname=":laugh:" />Needless to say, the original insulation material in that part of the car was soaked through, and after a brief assessment, we decided to strip them out and throw them away. It would have taken too long to dry them out again...By the time I started work, it was about 10.30 am, and the sun was in it's full glory. Lee's customers were treated to the sight of this rather large individual sweating bullets and trying to squeeze himself into the smaller corners of a ceffy in some weird ritual which involved a lot of grunting and cursing... <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/rofl.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":rofl:" title="rofl    :rofl:" data-shortname=":rofl:" />As I'd almost run out of flashing tape (1 roll left), I used Raammat to line the floorboards, and flashing tape to do the sides and centre. I ran the bitumen from the back seat (just above the vertical part of the chasis before the fuel pump access panel) till the firewall...as far as I could reach. For this part of the car, I'd suggest 2 layers if you can afford it. One already does the job, but two would be better. On top of this, I lay 9mm Insuflex. No need to glue on. Just cut to shape avoiding the "frame" part of the chasis, and lay them flat. You might want to glue down the front edge (on the firewall), but that's about it. I didn't even bother to go up the rear seat support with this as it would have taken too much space and made refitting the carpets too difficult. Be careful NOT to cover up your wiring with bitumen as this would make future repairs or checking difficult. Covering with Insuflex is ok (if you don't glue them on).Now...at the rear seat, there is a large metal panel separating the passenger cabin and the boot. Doing this bit is optional, but I would go ahead and apply a layer of bitumen on it as it does resonate a little. As you have a very thick piece of foam on it (i.e. your seat), it makes little difference. You might detect a slightly better sound quality coming from your speakers. I left it for another time, as by then, I had lost about 3 kgs of water (replaced with 5kg's of 100 plus), my sugar level was alarming low, my nicotine level was dangerously high, I'd run out of 4-letter words to mouth, and I smelled... :shocked:After you get the bitumen and insuflex properly laid down, just relay the original insulation material and cover up again with your carpeting. Re-install your seats and interior mouldings, and you're done. Careful with all your clips and clip on mouldings.The process is more tedious than difficult. And doing it in the sun...is a masochist's dream, but a nightmare to most other people. The only good thing about it is that I didn't have to apply a heat gun as the bitumen was softening at roughly the same rate as I was dehydrating...One IMPORTANT observation...the Raammat was softening at roughly the same rate as my flashing strip further strengthening my belief that some grades of flashing tape could be used to lower the overall cost of doing up a car. I'd confidently say that the boot, and all the horizontal parts of the floorboards could safely be layered with flashing strip. BUT, flashing strip is also roughly half the thickness of Raammat. So, you WILL have to use 2 layers to get the same effect.The total process of doing up the floorboards alone...probably about 5 hours for our cars. Add 2 hours if your car is in the sun... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile    :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" />By the time I'd finished, I was too tired to test anything. Lee was still fiddling with my door hinges, so he lent me his car to go home and delivered my car later. Now, those of you who've met Lee and his wife (who works with him at the workshop) will know that he is roughly a third my size, and drives a Kancil/Mira turbo... :shocked:Squeezing my rather generous behind into a Kancil was another totally new experience for me. For starters, my behind got jammed between the seat and the steering wheel, requiring me to reach down under the seat to move it backwards. Now, us feilos are not generally very flexible...but when you are caught in this embarrassing situation...in public...you find ways... <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/rofl.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":rofl:" title="rofl    :rofl:" data-shortname=":rofl:" />The doors...will be in my next post... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile    :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></blockquote>

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Boost drop problem , pls advise .

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