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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2529029" data-attributes="member: 27518">Well, seems like the crank brace might be used after all, but we'll see how it goes on the B18C block that's going to be worked on at the end of this year or early next year. If you want it before then, let me know and I'll see if it's going to be used or not.Octane readings, just google.ARP head studs have two purposes. They are not 'bolts' like the normal type R because they are there to facilitate head removal.Reason A:If you keep removing the head, the threads on the block (or bottom end) may wear out, so ARP used the stud type to prevent this, because the studs don't need to be removed from the block, ensuring that the threads on the block aren't weakened by constant removal and retorquing.Reason B:Another is for extra strength, because high compression engines make more pressure during combustion, it's more stressful on the stock bolts, and when they stretch over time, there goes your head gasket sealing. ARP 'claims' their bolts resists stretch better, so there's the strength argument. So the strength part can be said to be marketing speak.But for most intents and purposes, it's usually reason A, so if you have a car that you want to work on slowly and steadily (means you remove the head many times as you upgrade each part slowly/high maintainance race engines), then ARP bolts are the way to go. if not, just buy the normal R bolts, and when they wear out, but another. ARP bolts is like near quadruple the price of normal bolts in Malaysia, so it's up to the buyer to decide what he needs or not.</blockquote>