Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga

SkYwAlKeR

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yes.. the ECU will adjust the duty cycle accordingly to get the proper a/f ratio.

mechanics do not know the power of SVDO... and most of them do not know how to deal with it... cos everything seems cannot tune... so that's y they say no good.. in fact SVDO ecu is a very powerful ECU... it can take or compensate a many small engine defects and tune the engine to run on the best stock settings.. unless the parameters are off the limits.. then u will see the check engine light..

like my car MMC, the moment i started the engine after the rebuild.. the mapping are all not right... i'm getting black smoke at the exhaust and no power at all... need to perform PDT tuning in order to get the engine running smoothly... on SVDO.. the engine just start smoothly without any electronic tuning at all... i was quite amazed that time when i started the car...

so it is up to u to judge which is better.... well for me.. i think both have their strengths and weaknesses... MMC have the flexibility to do more tuning capabilites like the ignition timing and able to fit in a piggyback for further tuning.
oh ya... whats the difference between OBDI and OBDII??...svdo is OBDII??... what does OBD stands for??...
 

khguan

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that one is the socket type to do diagnostics on the ECU settings and read the engine management parameters... i'm not really familiar with the OBD... OBD I n OBD II is differentiated by the number of functions and parts which is a standard set by the ppl who create OBD... try google or wikipedia.. u will get to know in details.

Bump: that one is the socket type to do diagnostics on the ECU settings and read the engine management parameters... i'm not really familiar with the OBD... OBD I n OBD II is differentiated by the number of functions and parts which is a standard set by the ppl who create OBD... try google or wikipedia.. u will get to know in details.
 

Shinjite

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i TOTALLY agree with this statement and dats the no 1 reason y i dunwan change engine even the amount spent can buy gsr or evo3 or what.. hehe :thefinger::thefinger:
Thats why I didn't bother to go MIVEC as well, just do up my 4G92P SOHC :)
Satisfied with what I've done with it, still left some other stuffs to do some more to finalize it
 

tofu_manic

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My is 2k satria i think like urs and my mech said mine is MMC.

thanks all the sifu info, sound like is about time to get 5k or 6k >.<

but is seems to can get 4g91 engine haha >.< if one shot bring all money out sure mind will go to get a engine.. >.<

Exedy racing cluth no good ahh??? i think for 1.5 CC also.
[skywalker will follow ur words wait my clutch finish 1st, but still long way to go i think no more den 1 years yet and i feel the clutch are fine]

well i feel wanna go for port and polish but dunno where to go and dunno how much??

by the way i saw one forum they said about this mod.

Toyota KE30 ENGINE LINER 75mm X 4
4g15 PISTON RING (STD) size 75.5mm 1set
4g15 PISTON 1set

然后将你的车4g13 BLOCK 那去车床店
叫那人将toyota ke30 liner装进 4g13的BLOCK 里
然后再叫他磨那个liner直到4g15 的piston 的size .

like above mod can really no need to think about stucker kit or still?

and where can get best tuner, cuz my emanage that i bring to tune, and they run dyno on 4th gears. and tune... is it correct? and i ask the mech and the mech told me, they tune by 3rd gear but dyno 4th gear. is it correct?
exedy 3 puck for 4g13/15 is good, really bites, while still makes for a liveable, quite easy to press clutch pedal

i think if the original clutch does not really slip during hard gear changes, u can still save money by using back the oem clutch

the mentioned mods u got from the forum still mentions using back 4g15 pistons...no matter what, ull only be able to go up to 1468cc

up to u, whether u wanna go up to 1600cc with the stroker kit, or bore ur block and stuff the 4g15 pistons inside

1600 stroker kit pros:
1. lots more torque from low to mid
2. u get a broader, more useable powerband
3. daily driveability improves hehe

cons:
1. more expensive, hehe
2. longer stroke = slitely less high rpm revvability
3. needs 4g15 block

from 1300cc to 1500cc with 4g15 pistons pros:
1. u get more power throughout the powerband, but torque kick is not as strong
2. retain high rpm revvability
3. bigger cc, easier to get car moving, so yeah, improved driveability too
4. relatively cheaper than getting the stroker kit

cons:
1. not 1600 cc hoho
2. dunno how this will affect a 4g13 block durability

in the end it is up to u
 
Last edited:

biz-da-tech

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Tofu thank for reply.

By u mention this two mod 2nd option will more cheaper right?
But will harm the 4g13p block?

But 1st option will not ??

Who here have done the 2nd option mod?

By the way where kl tune emanage are cheap n good? Thinking to re tune again since I felt the mech tune my emnange in wrong way.

N also port an polish?
 

tofu_manic

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i just edited my post, as ive sed earlier in this thread i think, the stroker kit can only be stuffed into a 4g15 block, not 4g13

2nd option cheaper yes as u dont have to get a 4g15 block and a 4g18 crank

Y do u feel that ur emanage is not tuned properly?

proper port and polish, if u have the funds to do it one go, even better

better leave pnp for the pros to do
 

biz-da-tech

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sound like i hav only 1 way to do on my 4g13 block is change piston shit :p

well i remember 1st time i tune my cam pulley on dyno machine and they using 3rd gear to run on dyno machine

but den when i do emanage (on other shop recommended by my friend) and they tune my emanage and run on 4th gear on dyno machine.

so i wonder is it correct? 10 people 8 people said is on 3rd gear.

so that why i said and believe that they tune not correct way?

there have any thread can find 1.5 piston 2nd hand :>

Bump: sound like i hav only 1 way to do on my 4g13 block is change piston shit :p

well i remember 1st time i tune my cam pulley on dyno machine and they using 3rd gear to run on dyno machine

but den when i do emanage (on other shop recommended by my friend) and they tune my emanage and run on 4th gear on dyno machine.

so i wonder is it correct? 10 people 8 people said is on 3rd gear.

so that why i said and believe that they tune not correct way?

there have any thread can find 1.5 piston 2nd hand :>
 

SkYwAlKeR

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that one is the socket type to do diagnostics on the ECU settings and read the engine management parameters... i'm not really familiar with the OBD... OBD I n OBD II is differentiated by the number of functions and parts which is a standard set by the ppl who create OBD... try google or wikipedia.. u will get to know in details.
oh... alrite... will google it up when i'm free... thanks..
 

HaxDuum

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Wat is the max whp with 6k+++ cost performance?
which engine more portential? carb or injection?
 

biz-da-tech

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Haxdumm , Vdesign body kit? woot we are bro haha me too :p

6k mod i think u can get 150hp below ? for 4g13 but 15 im not sure mayb above 150hp
 

HaxDuum

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after 6k+++ get it go any further without BOT?
wan to know wat is the potential of 4g15 hehehe
YO, biz-da-tech,where do u live come let's yamcha lol
 

HaxDuum

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btw how u spray ur car? with v design got alot of variety of style.

140whp can tapau wat car?hehehe...
so wat if with bot? how far can it go?

oh ya, i wan to know where to get cheap breather? something like a small air filter?
 
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meltan7

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i'm just letting you know the potential of this engine. whatever car it can tapau is solely on how you mod your engine.
 

tofu_manic

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Haxdumm , Vdesign body kit? woot we are bro haha me too :p

6k mod i think u can get 150hp below ? for 4g13 but 15 im not sure mayb above 150hp
6k?

150hp?

difficult dude, even for a 4g15

proper way to reach high hp for a 4g15 with sucky driveability (without going the efi route, which involves more $$$ such as for standalones etc. etc.):

1. twin weber DCOE 40s = RM 1500
2. 292 degree racing cam with cam gear = RM 1800 +\-
3. proper PnP head = RM 2000
4. ignition mods = RM 1500
5. balancing / blueprinting = RM 2000-3000?
6. hours of tuning / petrol = RM xxx
7. parts u need to change for the DCOE, such as chokes, main jets, air correctors, to make sure it matches the rest of the mods = RM xxx
8. full exhaust system = rm 700?
9. lighten flywheel / racing clutch = rm 700?
10. electric fuel pump = rm 100 to 300

altogether how much edi

if i had just 6k, and dont give a rat's @$$ about daily driveability as well, id do just the following:

1. twin weber DCOE 40s = rm 1500
2. 292 race cam with cam gear = rm 1800 +/-
3. proper exhaust system = rm700
4. fuel pump / ignition coil = rm 400 - 700
5. skim head to bump up compression a bit
6. lighten flywheel / race clutch = rm 700
7. tuning / labour / weber parts = rm 600 - 700

altogether = rm 5700 to 6200 (approx. only la :P)

i dont think a stroker kit with its strong low to mid nature will match a peaky powerband type race cam, so i will not include it inside this list for the moment, so low end will be crappy, since the concern now is high hp at high rpm

so u can count how much it will cost

4g13? much less potential unless u up the cc to 1468, which then the issue of durability will arise....

if u are talking about max hp for a daily driven vehicle, suitable for street/weekend drags, then it would be around 150hp, and needs way more than just 6 k

powerzones iswara maxed out at 147hp, for a daily driven vehicle

to reach max hp fastest with the least money, go carb; get twin webers, the best tuned twin carbs will closely match the best tuned 4-throttled efi setups....

as for reaching 140whp, really difficult, havent seen it being done yet, and for sure not a daily driveable car haha
 
Last edited:

afmarsyal

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hi, been away for a while..seems to be a lot of question regarding 4g13p rebore to fit 1.5 piston here..well i have done it to my car, so i can share some experience..from the information i got from some mechanics, they told me the block dimension, the head dimension (maybe the cams or rockers degree differs for 1.3 or 1.5 application) and the crankcase is the same..the block even come out from the same mould, but then rebore to 1.3 and 1.5 (71mm and 75.5mm) respectively..so material used and even the composition is the same..so, if the mechanics is right, i guess that explains why 1.5 block can replace 1.3 block without need to change the headers and crankcase..as for durability, i've driven my car, which is 1.3 rebore to 1.5 for 6-7 hours from kuantan to taiping at speed of 120km/h mostly and made short stop to pee only and it has proven to be problem and overheating free..the trip is 495km and i made it with one full tank with about a quarter gauge to spare..i also once full blast the engine from kuala lumpur to kuantan via lebuhraya pantai timur, maintaining 170km/h from karak to kuantan..also problem free..however engine oil nearly dry out, i guess it's because i'm using rm38.00 20W/50 multi vis pennzoil engine oil..
 

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