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Finally get the GB taken out to change clutch, and found out serious oil leak. Hav to change all the oil seal inside the gear box. Cost me RM600 and half cut condition 9" clutch cost me RM400. Haiz.... Pok Kai already after had this car not for long... Still a long list to go

I bought new exedy 9" clutch for rm380. can be used but will slip on boost exceeding 0.8bar.
 
The old one also exedy 9" clutch use not more then 3 months it burn out. Can't hold if the boost on 0.9bar. Now I'm using GSR turbo 9" so far still ok as after I install I travel down to JB no more clutch slip.
 
The old one also exedy 9" clutch use not more then 3 months it burn out. Can't hold if the boost on 0.9bar. Now I'm using GSR turbo 9" so far still ok as after I install I travel down to JB no more clutch slip.

I tot GSR is 8.5", evo, VR4 & RVR, 6a12tt is 9"
 
Hi guys, ever since my car overheat there has been a sharp increase in FC. From 10-11 litres/km to now 13-14litres/km for city drive. Changed the radiator, water pump and the ss pipe (for thermostat?) since that overheating incident.

Any ideas? Spark plug was changed few months ago, maybe the cable? Engine and atf oil changed on time, can it be only the AFR?
 
Hi guys, ever since my car overheat there has been a sharp increase in FC. From 10-11 litres/km to now 13-14litres/km for city drive. Changed the radiator, water pump and the ss pipe (for thermostat?) since that overheating incident.

Any ideas? Spark plug was changed few months ago, maybe the cable? Engine and atf oil changed on time, can it be only the AFR?

Check if it is consuming water. Maybe header is warp and got some internal leakage?
 
So far have been checking radiator levels frequently, no water level drops yet. However I do noticed that the water hose is now fully kemek, until I open the radiator cap. Any problem with that? Or it just means my radiator is doing its job?
 
So far have been checking radiator levels frequently, no water level drops yet. However I do noticed that the water hose is now fully kemek, until I open the radiator cap. Any problem with that? Or it just means my radiator is doing its job?
Collapsed water hose because the are vacuum in the cooling system.

Related to it, after flushing the radiator, should I let the engine runs for a period of time with radiator uncapped in order for the air bubbles in the cooling system to escape? How will the air bubbles affect the cooling?
 
Collapsed water hose because the are vacuum in the cooling system.

Related to it, after flushing the radiator, should I let the engine runs for a period of time with radiator uncapped in order for the air bubbles in the cooling system to escape? How will the air bubbles affect the cooling?

Trapped air can cause radiator system to heat up.
Either it can escape through the expansion bottle or you can bleed it or you can leave the cap off until the water circulates...:driver:
 
Trapped air can cause radiator system to heat up.
Either it can escape through the expansion bottle or you can bleed it or you can leave the cap off until the water circulates...:driver:

yes its true, last time I flushed my radiator system & took it out for a test drive as I was in a hurry, a few mins later my water temp shot to the red line, has to stop for a while let it cool down & drive it back home. had to drain the radiator again & finally it was all ok. the problem was air bubbles trapped inside the radiator.
 
Trapped air can cause radiator system to heat up.
Either it can escape through the expansion bottle or you can bleed it or you can leave the cap off until the water circulates...:driver:

yes its true, last time I flushed my radiator system & took it out for a test drive as I was in a hurry, a few mins later my water temp shot to the red line, has to stop for a while let it cool down & drive it back home. had to drain the radiator again & finally it was all ok. the problem was air bubbles trapped inside the radiator.
Thank you for the explanation.
No wonder my car's temp went havoc for no reason the other day. Scratched my head until botak also couldn't find the problem. I didn't know that.
 
Thank you for the explanation.
No wonder my car's temp went havoc for no reason the other day. Scratched my head until botak also couldn't find the problem. I didn't know that.

I normally let the system run for a while, then top up full, cap up then fill expansion bottle up too. After a drive and after the engine have cooled just check radiator water again and then check expansion bottle. Expansion bottle should go down slightly as after radiator is cooled it should have sucked some water from the expansion bottle....:driver:
 
hi guy, need some help here. After changing my v6 front lower arm and do wheel alignment, the steering will not align itself back after turning. Anyone face this problem before? thanks
 
hi guy, need some help here. After changing my v6 front lower arm and do wheel alignment, the steering will not align itself back after turning. Anyone face this problem before? thanks
Are you feeling the steering heavy? Yes that's the con when using non-genuine Proton lower arms.
 
YYC, yes the steering feel heavy. Do you know how much is the original proton lower arms? this one cost me rm200++
 
I have used 2 sets of after market brand lower arms, 555 currently feel a lot better than previous set but still heavy. Proton lower arm cost around 500 if not mistaken.
 
I see. I don't which brand that i use but it is orange color. A bit heavy is ok but the problem is the steering did not align it back to center... :(
 
When it's tight it definitely affects steering returnability. I suspect the lower ball joint of the LCA is the culprit. Even me too have steering returnability issue.
 
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