Perdana V6 Community Forum *

cpmah

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Jun 20, 2005
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You mean previous the brakes were okay? In that case, find out what is wrong instead of changing.

Thank for your feedback vr2turbo. :biggrin:

But I am looking for the answer to my question. (So I save some money whether I should go did it or not base on $/productivity)

I have tested few method but still not to my expectation.

MY concern is brembo 2 pot rear disc system - hand brake part, is it plug and play?
 

DanzEterna

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Hi all sifu here,

Can I know the Brembo Evo 5 or 6 front & rear (with handbrake), is it Plug & Play into Perdana? including the rear hand brake system?
I am using 5 hole knuckle from Eclipse with VRG brake front & rear, but brake now is so so nia.

Please advise!
im not sure bout that, I heard ppl say that evo 4-6 calipers are plug & play but not many ppl have done it, therefore I cant actually answer u. but since u are using VRG calipers y not stick to it? just upgrade the brake pads.
 

avex00

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Feb 12, 2013
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bros...

Just checking on some issues with perdana v6 2002.. when engine starts even after warm up and idling..the whole car rattles, from the engine bay looks ok but when inside the car driving or sitting in, ...there is some vibrations in the cabin.. what could it be? the GB falling apart? or engine mounting issues?..or could it be throttle body? There is no gears slippage or drop or whatsoever. Just power loss and rattles in the car..the RPM during idling is 1200rpm, and that is not low at all.

Whenever i accelerate, the vibrations are so obvious and even the passengers can feel & hear it..
there is power loss when accelerating and obviously the engine doesnt sound and feel smooth at all. Can all the sifus share some thoughts and if the repairs gonna be costly.?

Rgds.
 

YYC

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Dec 30, 2007
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bros...

Just checking on some issues with perdana v6 2002.. when engine starts even after warm up and idling..the whole car rattles, from the engine bay looks ok but when inside the car driving or sitting in, ...there is some vibrations in the cabin.. what could it be? the GB falling apart? or engine mounting issues?..or could it be throttle body? There is no gears slippage or drop or whatsoever. Just power loss and rattles in the car..the RPM during idling is 1200rpm, and that is not low at all.

Whenever i accelerate, the vibrations are so obvious and even the passengers can feel & hear it..
there is power loss when accelerating and obviously the engine doesnt sound and feel smooth at all. Can all the sifus share some thoughts and if the repairs gonna be costly.?

Rgds.
Firstly check the engine mounting. broken mounting causes vibration during idling.

Secondly check spark plugs and plug cables. breakdown any of them causes erratic idling and power loss.

Thirdly:Causes of erratic idling,high petrol consumption and lack of power

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth cleaning out the idle speed control motor / valve as these get clogged up with carbon and some brake cleaner washed through helps free things off.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.
if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so they can be effected by the weather and engine temperature.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile
 

avex00

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Feb 12, 2013
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wow..bro YYC..the third cause is so detailed..anyway thanks

I suspected its either spark plugs dead, plug cable dead or mounting dead. Just worried i will have to go thru a expensive experience replacing non faulty parts.

experienced it before in CefiroA33 V6, its was one of the plug cables not working after i changed the platinum plugs and gone to a few workshops asking what could be the prob..
 

wsonny

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Now my drive shaft is time to change again. I had change it nearly 1 year ago and now i feel the vibration when i start to pick up or i going up high speed. My TT drive shaft is hard to find, last time i had to leave my car there for a week only to find for the part to install.

Danz can u recommend any place i can try to get the part? or any mod i can do in cheaper way
 

YYC

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What is the difference between 6A12 and 6A12TT driveshaft? Do you guys have any pic of those?
When getting TT driveshaft replacement, are you usually go for recond unit or is there any new unit in the market?
 

wsonny

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Heard some ppl said, the driveshaft always broke is bcoz of the gearbox mounting alignment not right. I remember last time i change my clutch they mechanic got some problem to fix them back into the mountiing.

YYC, we only can get second hand unit for TT. new unit only for V6,
 

vr2turbo

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Where is bro. Danz? His territory.....:driver:

For me, my VR drive shaft is thicker then the 2.0 NA model....
 

YYC

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Hi turbo sifus, I'm seeking advice on EVO 3 transplant. My question is,
1. I'm planning to build the 4G63T with new parts, including the turbo. Should I get halfcut or engine lantai or kosong?
2. Is new evo wiring cost rm20-30k that's what my mech said. It that true?
3. My goal is 350-400hp max on the engine, what's the likely cost to get there? Is rm25k enough?
 
Last edited:

vr2turbo

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If new wiring cost so much, you might as well get Evo 3 half cut that comes with the wiring, etc..... engine lantai everything else is kosong....
 

DanzEterna

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Now my drive shaft is time to change again. I had change it nearly 1 year ago and now i feel the vibration when i start to pick up or i going up high speed. My TT drive shaft is hard to find, last time i had to leave my car there for a week only to find for the part to install.

Danz can u recommend any place i can try to get the part? or any mod i can do in cheaper way
mine was 6a12tt, I bought the short driveshaft new CyCar brand (cycle & carriage) Rm150, my other long DS had to be reconditioned costs me Rm100-150 include workmanship. it was done & prima damansara
the mechanic is AS.
not sure he still around anot.

---------- Post added at 03:34 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:31 PM ----------

Now my drive shaft is time to change again. I had change it nearly 1 year ago and now i feel the vibration when i start to pick up or i going up high speed. My TT drive shaft is hard to find, last time i had to leave my car there for a week only to find for the part to install.

Danz can u recommend any place i can try to get the part? or any mod i can do in cheaper way
bro cant remember ive asked u currently using sport spring or adjustable suspensions?

it makes a huge diff.
when I was using sport spring I change my DS twice in a year, lower arm 4 times a year.
after change to adjustables didn't change the items for more than 3 yrs.

---------- Post added at 03:36 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:34 PM ----------

Hi turbo sifus, I'm seeking advice on EVO 3 transplant. My question is,
1. I'm planning to build the 4G63T with new parts, including the turbo. Should I get halfcut or engine lantai or kosong?
2. Is new evo wiring cost rm20-30k that's what my mech said. It that true?
3. My goal is 350-400hp max on the engine, what's the likely cost to get there? Is rm25k enough?
go for halfcut costs bout RM13k- no need to pening bout wiring.
get 2nd hand wiring bout RM1.5-2k
4g63t easy to achieve high HP.
 

wsonny

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mine was 6a12tt, I bought the short driveshaft new CyCar brand (cycle & carriage) Rm150, my other long DS had to be reconditioned costs me Rm100-150 include workmanship. it was done & prima damansara
the mechanic is AS.
not sure he still around anot.

Danz...

that cheap... i found a workshop in shah alam selling 180 come from half cut. How is the recondition DS work?
 

DanzEterna

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mine was 6a12tt, I bought the short driveshaft new CyCar brand (cycle & carriage) Rm150, my other long DS had to be reconditioned costs me Rm100-150 include workmanship. it was done & prima damansara
the mechanic is AS.
not sure he still around anot.

Danz...

that cheap... i found a workshop in shah alam selling 180 come from half cut. How is the recondition DS work?


they just change the CV joints that's all....

---------- Post added at 08:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:51 AM ----------

Danz, I bought Cycar ODM ds at rm260/side in Oct 2014.:(
wow, price increased over the years. :banghead:
 

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