I wreck my MR2 :(

[khoo198]

Thx Mickey sifo.........:top::top:

Marcus....PDC hv all d abv items been installed?im not so familiar wif the background of this car. did i miss anythg else?

 

[iexit]

MRMIC, The car is already using 245 sub frame :-) - TRD anti roll bars (front and rear) - TOMS tower bars (Front & Rear) - Front complete PU bushing, and i think Vincent just changed the tires... so key is to learn to drive the car and remember engine is behind you so weight transfer is very important

Khoo, Yes it has. I can give you a list of the mid if you want.

 

[khoo198]

OK..thx .... Hope can meet u guy's soon......

 

[how2drive]

Ouch!!!

 

[yn_hell]

double ouch!

 

[iexit]

;-( nvm can be fixed... new rear arms front arms (if needed) bumper and we're good to go

 

[tom's]

lucky the side skirt no problem.......that side skirt is very very rare in malaysia.....hahaha

 

[khoo198]

lucky the side skirt no problem.......that side skirt is very very rare in malaysia.....hahaha

Ya.....luckily no cars coming from behind too....if not.......:stickyman::help::stickyman:

 

[yn_hell]

see other car wreck i dun really feel that pain, but when i see a mr2 wreck, somehow felt really painful...

 

[Green06]

Hi All MR bros, I tot I wud share my experience with a spin out in 2006 on the Karak KL highway right after the Genting Sempah Tunnel on the way to KL at the 60 KM/h slopping winding stretch.
This stretch is a killer when the road is wet. I learnt my lesson, engage in high gear always.
I spend some time to do some search and consultation and found that not only the tyres and driving skill / technique is important, the suspension geometry plays a part of it.
Most of us lowered the car for stability and good look, the hidden danger is the wheel camber problem.
When we lowered the car, the lower arm will change its geometry either being parallel to the ground or pointed upward ( depends on how low the car being set ). Here comes the problem, during a sharp corners, the car will tend to roll and the lower arm will be pushed up, changing the camber of the wheel from negative to positive and thats will result to an oversteer much easily. The rear toe link will also do the same effect of changing from rear toe-in to a rear toe-out. The front will increase toe-in further . These combination will throw the rear out instantly. I have yet to find the front toe link adapter, saw it in the HyperTune book but have not seen any locally, TOM ( Alvin ) pls. have a look out from half cut.
The solution to counter this is to install the negative camber adapter for both the front and rear.
Btw, TOM's have both the front and rear adapters ( replica & Ori ) available. I strongly recommend all SW20 owners to have them installed. Watch / check the geometry of both the front and rear lower arms. It would be smart to modify the rear toe link attachment. Pls. take note all cars are not designed for lowering without proper modification.

My costly experience have taught me well not to take things for granted, everything has a limits.
SW20 is a well built sport car with an excellent body structure, built like a tank but will not be not able to take an uncontrolled impact. The suspension are well designed for purpose for a sport car. This car is worth keeping guys !! I reckon I need a proper driving lesson , and would suggest a group lesson by professional instructor. I would be very happy if anyone can organize a group driving lesson for all MR drivers. Cheers and happy cruising................

 

[iexit]

Green is right. Just reinforcing what green said. In a nutshell
1) The positive camber is an issue, but can be taken care of with the newer cross members.
2) Lowering the car will still cause an issue with the roll center of the car. So fitting RCA's will help, but make sure the car's height corresponds to the RCA thickness. As for the toe, you can make a custom tow adjuster, the TOMS RCA even have a Toe lock, which i shaved off as i did not know how to use it :-)

Bottom line, learn how to drive the car well before pushing it, is always a good idea.

Green, BTW how much bhp can your (for sale @ Tom’s place) turbine push? the polished one? Do you have the AR spec of the turbine?

 

[Green06]

Hi, Iexit,
This turbo is a Rotomaster Made in USA. equivalent to T04B 20 trim. Freshly rebuilt in Japan.
The turbine spec is AR: 0.69 with a 3" outlet.
70 mm dia. wheel with 58 mm dia exducer.
The compressor spec is AR 0.60 with a 3" inlet & 2 " outlet.
70 mm dia. wheel & 47 mm dia. inducer.

BHP I do not have a clue. I would guess easily above 350 hp.
For your GTR would be a good match with AR0.69 for 2.4 or 2.5L engine.
You would need a good oil cooler as this turbo is an oil cooled and very light in weight.
Interested PM me.
Thanks.:proud:

 

[Avantissimo]

WOW...its terrifying to see such incidents.As long as driver & passenger is OK.Anyhow,the car may have the weirdest characteristics,but i surely loved it.though i dun own it anymore,will never forget the thrill of owning it.dun give up guys...take care..(especially taming it)..Cheers!!!