Extractors..

  • See what others are reading now! Try Forums > Current Activity
  • Search function more powerful with google results! Try Search

rivers

Known Member
Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2004
Messages
229
Points
3,016
Hi All,

Just want to get some comments re the above. I am driving a SR4 Civc SOHC non VTEC. I am thinking of getting a 4-2-1 extractor. Anyone can recommend a good one? and also what size pipping should I be using? 1.8, 2"? No moolahs to go VTEC just yet..so start small first... :embaressed_smile:
 
Checked with them RM 340 with installation. Not to bad. He suggested pipping size of 1.6 max 1.75". Is that ok? would it be choking at certain RPM?
 
all their recommendations are based on their setup experiences. so 1.75 is ok for your minor engine mod.
 
if ur gona used THAT extractor,might as well 4get it...seriously.even whn i was running B16A,i ditched THAT extractor n reverted back 2 stock..no kidding....
 
My experience with 4-2-1 on a D16 non vtec was shortlived. Great pickup on the first three gears, then really lame on the fourth and the fifth. Since I drive on highways mostly.. overtaking was a chore, though pickup from the green light at traffic stops was always a bit more fun.
 
wei akuma, dun say like tat la....tat's for b16a.....

ppl using SOHC la.....so, maybe hotbits is ok...
 
xxxx,
no way man.....go check out their build quality n material used ler...but i used it like 3-4 yrs back...mayb they've improved...not sure...so,whn u wanna sell me ur super duper ECU?ahhahah
 
FYI, i had a hotbit's extractor for b16a too....

sold it after seeing jasma approved extractors. hahahaa......

my ECU ar? hahahahahaha....... until u offer me a reasonable prize 1st la....hahahahahahaha
 
Hmmm so no go for Hotbits? Or total dont waste your time with 4-2-1s if you are not going B16?
 
B16A is another story. whatever you have now you can pursue by all means with your budget. abit of tiny power increment is something to cheerup about.

ps. once u start to go b-series, its no ending story. probably u can ask the forummers their setup, dyno results and how much they have actually spent to reach such power.
 
Bro, do you know what is the expected power gain with the extractor?
 
if you are lucky, if your engine is healthy, probably a 2-5whp. that includes the whole cat-back system.
 
i wanna point out sumthg......altho a gain of 2-5whp MIGHT seem SMALL 2 sum ppl,i wud like 2 bring their attention away frm dis power gain...coz usually,these 2-5whp is PEAK power gain......4 me,i'd rather look @ d WHOLE power gain....i mean,even if d gain is only 1-2whp,but if its across d rpm,better thn just a peak of 5whp say @ 6000rpm,right?.....
 
Got a question here too, with regards to your question.

If you get 2-5 peak power gain, isn't that gain distributed across the graph as well? Of course, it's a meager overall gain, but more power = more money, isn't it?

As far as I know, I've never seen a dyno chart that spikes vertically for a 2-5hp gain for just the peak hp, with no additional power anywhere else. It's usually gradual and power distributed across the chart to result in the peak hp. The only difference is the shape of the graph, which will usually show how the extra power is distributed, whether in lower, middle, or higher rpms.

usually 2-5 horsepower peak power gain is really good (for me lah!), considering our small displacement engines and it's natural aspirated state, and getting more power out of it is really just an issue of how efficient you can make your engine. There's a lot of junk products out there that claim this and that, and yet when you use it, it fails to deliver more power, with some even worse performing than the stock part that came with the engine! So if there really is an increase, however meager, you should be thankful that it was money well spent.

Anyway, it's really expensive to make power out of an NA engine once you hit the displacement/efficiency limit, as you have to contend with other methods or theories that can push NA engines further. (lightweight conrods and crankshaft, higher compression pistons, balancing, using electric water pump, porting work, etc.) All the ones I mentioned cost quite a lot, and likely not for the casual enthusiasts.

Turbo cars are another story, since they can push more air in regadless of engine capacity (provided the engine can stand the boost) <- of course, these efficiency comes at a price.. namely the amount of fuel that the engine consumes to generate the same hp (on paper that is, please don't think that I mean wheelhp / FC when daily driving, as this is dependent on other external factors like wheel size, transmission loss, vehicle weight, engine design/weight etc.) AFAIK, it's something to do the extra fuel needed to cool the intake charge from the turbine, but I'm not knowledgable enough to say for sure.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Last edited:
shiroitenshi,
actually,i've seen/read dyno graphs dat r worst thn b4 modding...ie power across d range is lower compared 2 b4 modding n only gain 1-2hp @ a certain rpm(yep,sum sort like spike).....so,let's say u haf a mod dat can gain say 2hp across d range compare w anoda mod dat might gif u 5hp @ 5000rpm-6000rpm only,while d rest of d rpm range remain same or worst..whc wud u choose?i'd choose d former of course....across d range is wat i'm aiming for.....
n also,alot of enthusiast emphasise too much on hp gain.wat abt torque?y is dis figure not relevant in most power gain talk?ehheheheheh.....
i just wanna kpc in here...my car slow....EF7 Si... =)
 
akuma,
unknownly we do not know what rivers has in his/her car. if another question would to raise up, i might advice for upgrade cams for that sohc engine for WHOLE power band gain. theres too much things to think abt when it comes to sohc engines and the limitation of products for them. im not trying to discourage them nor asking them to upgrade to b-series, just a few peak horsepower may make someone's day. i know what you are thinking but lets not blow the budget and have more dilemmas. lets take one step at a time:p

shiroitenshi,
"Anyway, it's really expensive to make power out of an NA engine once you hit the displacement/efficiency limit, as you have to contend with other methods or theories that can push NA engines further. (lightweight conrods and crankshaft, higher compression pistons, balancing, using electric water pump, porting work, etc.) All the ones I mentioned cost quite a lot, and likely not for the casual enthusiasts." - i have to fully agree on this statement. good thought. keep it up.
 
akuma said:
shiroitenshi,
actually,i've seen/read dyno graphs dat r worst thn b4 modding...ie power across d range is lower compared 2 b4 modding n only gain 1-2hp @ a certain rpm(yep,sum sort like spike).....so,let's say u haf a mod dat can gain say 2hp across d range compare w anoda mod dat might gif u 5hp @ 5000rpm-6000rpm only,while d rest of d rpm range remain same or worst..whc wud u choose?i'd choose d former of course....across d range is wat i'm aiming for.....
n also,alot of enthusiast emphasise too much on hp gain.wat abt torque?y is dis figure not relevant in most power gain talk?ehheheheheh.....
i just wanna kpc in here...my car slow....EF7 Si... =)

All of us oso KPC lah.. or not why hang around in a forum, no? In the process of talking, sometimes I also learn something new right?

I see what you mean, but what kind of mods can give you 1-2hp across the range? (unless the ori part is so badly designed that it sucks a$$, which is NEVER the case with Honda cars) I don't think a simple intake / exhaust mods will ever help you achieve that. AFAIK, only by tinkering with piggyback / ECU systems will do that (provided you did the intake / exhaust mods already).

I'm not really disagreeing with you, but when you're talking about NA, every single bit counts. Of course, I agree with you that more is better, but I think for NA, we shouldn't set our goals too high. (Which was why I mentioned about turbo cars). With NA, if a single bolt on can get you 1-2hp (even if it's just limited to certain revs), you can already clap your hands, since you haven't compensated for those changes by using an AFR (cheaper method, very limited power gain) or using those piggyback/ECU systems. You have to remember that the leeway for gaining power on NA engines are very limited compared to turbo. I'm thinking this way because I have to scratch my head and empty my wallet for what you call a meager 1-2hp gain across the powerband. Of course, I know of other methods to increase power considerably across the rev range (removing AC and power steering, but would you live without them on a daily driven car?). Some other mods I know off are even riskier, as it compromises reliability.

Another thing I remember is that due to engine design, sometimes what we're doing with the mods is moving the powerband. IMO, the D16(previously on mine) are quite good at low revs but really lacking as the revs climb, so any mods that improve power at the higher revs is good, although sometime I have to sacrifice the lower end power (a bit) to achieve this. Since I drive on the highway a lot, I'm always wanting better top-end power, even if it costs a bit on the lower revs.

NA isn't the easiest to mod, and it's usually through trial and error that we find out which product works best and offers best power gain. Unlike turbos, where we just have to make sure the fuelling is enough and the block powerful enough to support more boost.) If you add a just add bigger intake or exhaust to a turbo car, the power increase is usually not just 1-2hp (depending on the performance of the ori part). If you do that with an NA engine... I don't think you'll see much difference unless you already did other expensive mods mentioned in my previous post.

IMO,
Torque figures are also important, and usually increase with horsepower numbers (the torque numbers are used to calculate the HP after all).

HP = Torque x RPM / 5252 <- interestingly, 5252 is the magic number where when RPM=5252, HP=torque.
God knows who came up with this equation and why (I'm still learning after all)

For me, the torque is the G-force (acceleration) you feel when you 'pedal to the metal' to achieve a wanted speed. Of course, I want more torque too, but that's usually only achievable by increasing displacement, or spending on a few thousand dollar for a mod part (and other supporting mods). Intake and exhaust increase the torque as well, but usually gives rather dismal numbers (after minus the transmission loss) that they can be ignored entirely.

Which is why, after 2 hours of thinking (before conversion).. I went for B16A conversion... cheaper in the long run. ROFL! Still, I think the D16 with minor mods are enough to make someone's day..Heck! It satisfied me for a day!
(Now you know why J101 keep saying a conversion to B series is much better)

Just my 4 cents (cumulative mah!)
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom