How to improve braking performance (semi-DIY)

[DanzEterna]

I juz bought a twin pot evo 3 caliper..Whats the price of the caliper service kit..?Anyone know..?

bout rm50-70 both sides cant remember...MMC brand.

 

[punk]

@@...duno much mechs...prefer DIY since its nt that difficult...utube oso got many videos...thn i just ask some comments from sifu ma...plus i dun rly trust those mechs...imp steel brake line long enuf ma to reach the 11" honda brakes on myvi?

How many car jack / stand u have??
If u have one then good luck on ur DIY...

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:01 PM ----------

It takes two person to manually bleed/flush the brake properly.

How bout clutch bleeding procedure ??
Need advise because that day i bleed out the old fluid on old van, more air going in and end up call mechanic ..:hmmmm:

I use the same procedure as brake bleeding except the pedal which i use on clutch pedal..

 

[compaq]

Nice write-up.

Brake fluid must be change annually,or after a hard track day,cos when the fluid cools down,it will absorb some moisture to the system that may bring the fluid operating temp.lower
I had a friend who change his Clutch and Brake fluid yearly and never before encounter brake seal leak after driving the car for more than 10years

 

[samurai76]

izso san, all sifus & members of the house,

got few questions...

1) which areas I should apply/spray the 'brake parts cleaner'..is it over the caliper, disc rotor, pads, inside piston, etc ???

2) once I sprayed the brake parts cleaners towards the brake components, should I wipe the dust, rusty or leave it ???

3) is there any alternatives to push out the piston instead of using air gun ??

4) what is the proper ways of cleaning the brake components ?? is it starts by cleaning with tap water, then wipe with cloth, then apply brake parts cleaner, then spray them (optional) and end with installing all the parts back to the origin place..

hope you guys can guide & assist me...DIY rocks...

 

[Izso]

izso san, all sifus & members of the house,

got few questions...

1) which areas I should apply/spray the 'brake parts cleaner'..is it over the caliper, disc rotor, pads, inside piston, etc ???

2) once I sprayed the brake parts cleaners, should I wipe the dust, rusty or leave it ???

3) is there any alternatives to push out the piston instead of using air gun ??

4) what is the proper ways of cleaning the brake components ?? is it starts by cleaning with tap water, then wipe with cloth, then apply brake parts cleaner, then spray them (optional) and end with installing all the parts back to the origin place..

hope you guys can guide & assist me...DIY rocks...

Spray the brake cleaner anywhere that's dirty along the caliper, rotor, rim, etc. Then flush it with water. Don't let it dry up with the brake dust.

You really need an airgun to remove the piston. What I use is those cheap RM80 tyre pressure pumps that you can buy from Jusco that runs off your cigarette lighter plug. It does the trick as well.

There's no "proper" way of cleaning the brake components. I just use a brush, some cleaner, water and brush it down. Then I just let it dry in the sun and that's it. No need to clean the rotors, except you can opt to sand off the rusty bits (except for the parts that the brake pads are in direct contact with) and spray paint it with some high temp paint. Not really necessary but a red colour rotor is cool

 

[samurai76]

thx izso san for fast feedback....

just imagine, how much it costs us if we send the car to mechanics and ask them to change the brake pads, spray caliper, clean the brake components, flush & bleed the brakes ???? last time, i send kelisa for new brake fluid, flush & bleed the brakes, it costs me rm100...!@#$%^&....

 

[Izso]

thx izso san for fast feedback....

just imagine, how much it costs us if we send the car to mechanics and ask them to change the brake pads, spray caliper, clean the brake components, flush & bleed the brakes ???? last time, i send kelisa for new brake fluid, flush & bleed the brakes, it costs me rm100...!@#$%^&....

That's cheap what

 

[samurai76]

all sifus & members of the house,

Tomorrow, I am going to change the 'brake pads' and to spray the 'brake caliper' as well...also to change the 'disc brake rotor'...after made few survey at the spare parts shops, the price for 'disc brake rotor' for TRW & Bosch is the same...which brand is recommended & reliable based on performance, quality, etc ?? plis advice....:hmmmm:

 

[Izso]

all sifus & members of the house,

Tomorrow, I am going to change the 'brake pads' and to spray the 'brake caliper' as well...also to change the 'disc brake rotor'...after made few survey at the spare parts shops, the price for 'disc brake rotor' for TRW & Bosch is the same...which brand is recommended & reliable based on performance, quality, etc ?? plis advice....:hmmmm:

TRW and Bosch are OEM pads like Hitachi is for Perodua. Personally I find Bosch pads crap. They aren't for cars that go faster than 80km/h and when pressured it'll fade the first chance it gets. I suggest you source around for better pads like Bendix, Ferodo, Improve Platinum, etc.

If you have the budget go high end - EBC, Endless, Brembo, etc.

 

[ColdPlay]

From my expereince, Ferodo Zero are just too dusty compare to Bendix CT series. They leaved a trail of dust even after just 50km of travelling.
Btw, I find a DIY way to make the brakes feel less spongy which is by using a lot of cable tight and fully tie it along the OEM brake hose.
After DIY, braking feel slightly more responsive as the cable tight setup prevent the rubber OEM brake hose from flexing.

 

[Izso]

From my expereince, Ferodo Zero are just too dusty compare to Bendix CT series. They leaved a trail of dust even after just 50km of travelling.
Btw, I find a DIY way to make the brakes feel less spongy which is by using a lot of cable tight and fully tie it along the OEM brake hose.
After DIY, braking feel slightly more responsive as the cable tight setup prevent the rubber OEM brake hose from flexing.

That's really old school! And very tiring to do! Only reason why I didn't bother with this DIY actually. Malas. So end up I bought and used steel braided.

 

[ColdPlay]

That's really old school! And very tiring to do! Only reason why I didn't bother with this DIY actually. Malas. So end up I bought and used steel braided.

Very tiring indeed but DIY can be addictive . Spend 2 hours doing all 4 side. One side has the cable tight loose due to run out of good cable tight, end up using 'el cheapo'. It was a thing of the past though as me too bought a half cut steel braided hose. Same brake 'feel' but more lasting.

 

[Vincent0001]

Hi Izso, mine is Myvi as well, may i know how you use the floor jack to jack up a the car, at which point you jack it up and put two jack stands at the pinch weld supports (behind the wheel as your picture).

Can I use floor jack to jack up the spring support underneath(the big spring support the tyre and car one)?

and what grease you using to lubricate the caliper pin?

Thanks :-)

 

[Izso]

Hi Izso, mine is Myvi as well, may i know how you use the floor jack to jack up a the car, at which point you jack it up and put two jack stands at the pinch weld supports (behind the wheel as your picture).

Can I use floor jack to jack up the spring support underneath(the big spring support the tyre and car one)?

and what grease you using to lubricate the caliper pin?

Thanks :-)

i'm not sure which part you're referring to. I jack it up on the flatter stronger chassis parts of the car. If i'm not mistaken the pinch weld support is the original car jacks jacking spot right? that one bends using a floor jack so i don't use that bit.

 

[Vincent0001]

i'm not sure which part you're referring to. I jack it up on the flatter stronger chassis parts of the car. If i'm not mistaken the pinch weld support is the original car jacks jacking spot right? that one bends using a floor jack so i don't use that bit.

Thanks for reply
What is mean is the Yellow color part, can i use the for floor jack point?
How about the Red color part?
Wondering where is the flatter stronger chassis parts you refering to ?

and i plan to use the "Super high temperature Red Toyo grease EAJ 8000" as shown in picture for my Myvi caliper pin, have you heard about it, is it suitable?
* can i show the brand like that? first time playing forum, if not i will remove it, thanks

 

[Vincent0001]

Izso and thanks for your previous Myvi oil changing post, I managed to change Myvi oil and oil filter alone.
At first abit scare something when wrong, after two weeks no oil leaking, Yeah!

 

[Izso]

Thanks for reply
What is mean is the Yellow color part, can i use the for floor jack point?
How about the Red color part?
Wondering where is the flatter stronger chassis parts you refering to ?

and i plan to use the "Super high temperature Red Toyo grease EAJ 8000" as shown in picture for my Myvi caliper pin, have you heard about it, is it suitable?
* can i show the brand like that? first time playing forum, if not i will remove it, thanks

Yellow part is the arm itself. Don't put the jack on the flat part that you highlighted in yellow. Put the jack where the joint it, not on the flat part. The red one is the chassis bit, can use that but be very careful - test it before putting the full weight onto the car.

This is what I usually do or somewhere nearby that area.

And glad you managed to change the oil properly *thumbs up

 

[Vincent0001]

Izso I just use mirror to took some pictures of the Myvi underneath. (I know it need imagination to understand my picture location since it is a bit hard to take photos of it).

1. First question is can I use hydraulic floor jack to jack on the picture red rectangular part at the center, so after jacking up I can easily to two jack stands at the weld pinch jack point. I not sure what is it, maybe is mounting for engine or gearbox?

2. Second question is for the rear part. should we jack on the green rectangular part shown in the picture? Since there is a sticker at the torsion bar (Red rectangular), we cannot jack it , the green part just before the torsion bar I see is quite solid at attached to the frame, seem like a perfect jack point for rear center part.

 

[Izso]

Izso I just use mirror to took some pictures of the Myvi underneath. (I know it need imagination to understand my picture location since it is a bit hard to take photos of it).

1. First question is can I use hydraulic floor jack to jack on the picture red rectangular part at the center, so after jacking up I can easily to two jack stands at the weld pinch jack point. I not sure what is it, maybe is mounting for engine or gearbox?

2. Second question is for the rear part. should we jack on the green rectangular part shown in the picture? Since there is a sticker at the torsion bar (Red rectangular), we cannot jack it , the green part just before the torsion bar I see is quite solid at attached to the frame, seem like a perfect jack point for rear center part.

1. Don't jack up the car using the engine mount! You just need to find a point under the car that's solid, not moving and preferably stiff.

2. I am not comfortable with that spot you highlighted. I need to go back and have a look at my car to double check where I jack for the back.

What sort of jack are you using? I'm using the mechanic type 3 ton jack. If you're using the jack tat comes with the car use this mounting point but be warned using jackstands here will spoit the "skirt" :

For me, where I put my jackstands is here (the red box, ignore the yellow) :

I know the pic above isn't a Myvi and is the rear of a Hyundai but the concept is the same. The jackstands hold up the car at the point where the arm meets the chassis and it's the same for the front. Personally I think this spot is pretty strong and is more than capable of holding up the cars full weight.

This is my actual car and pic, the jackstand is just about where I am talking about earlier.

 

[Vincent0001]

1. Don't jack up the car using the engine mount! You just need to find a point under the car that's solid, not moving and preferably stiff.

2. I am not comfortable with that spot you highlighted. I need to go back and have a look at my car to double check where I jack for the back.

What sort of jack are you using? I'm using the mechanic type 3 ton jack. If you're using the jack tat comes with the car use this mounting point but be warned using jackstands here will spoit the "skirt" :

For me, where I put my jackstands is here (the red box, ignore the yellow) :

I know the pic above isn't a Myvi and is the rear of a Hyundai but the concept is the same. The jackstands hold up the car at the point where the arm meets the chassis and it's the same for the front. Personally I think this spot is pretty strong and is more than capable of holding up the cars full weight.

View attachment 574092

This is my actual car and pic, the jackstand is just about where I am talking about earlier.

Thanks for reply :-). Okay from your advices, the jack stands I understand where to put already. When I changed engine oil I actually put two scissors jacks as your first picture (under the door weld pinch point), I know it is not safe to put scissors jacks, but i took the risk since oil sump nut is quite near the front and my body is not under the car. (1st time change engine oil successeful, haha :-)).

Next step in future I going to change A/T fluid and filter after reading your post and others about changing auto transmission :-).
I saw your engine oil change post you have the hydraulic floor jack and two jackstands, now I know where to putt he jackstands (just put as your pictures). I just wonder where you jack up the myvi using the hydraulic floor jack so you can put two jackstands left and right site?

* I think I said hydraulic floor jack is your mechanic 3 ton jack, at the picture I plan to buy one, still figure where to jack up with this one