http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...2-point-front-engine-bar-for-proton-wira.html
USED Ultra-Racing room bar & 2 point front engine bar. For Proton Wira.
USED Ultra-Racing room bar & 2 point front engine bar. For Proton Wira.
Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga
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well.. performance cams have longer valve lift duration... that means the valves are opening for a longer time and the overlap is more... in other words... intake opens earlier and closes later.. same goes to the exhaust...
to do that, we need to cut off some parts of the cam lobe for the long duration profile... i have heard that some parts of the cam lobe will be welded for more meat and then reprofiled...
to do that, we need to cut off some parts of the cam lobe for the long duration profile... i have heard that some parts of the cam lobe will be welded for more meat and then reprofiled...
i the workmanship ok den nvm lar... if not, the welded part chips off den die lor....
well... i guess cam profilers know the welding quality is very critical and must be done very nicely...
hi,any1 can help to answer my question?
my cars is wira se manual, 1.6 flywheel,K&N filter, ssr rim, normal muffler and other just stock,
if i wan to bolt on turbo (0.4~0.6bar), and unichip,
what else should i mod??
cause now 1~2 gear the pick up still satisfied,but 3~4 gear is very slow,
run in kesas highway, cant even let go a van( new toyota high ace
),
so planning 2 bolt on turbo,
but worried about the fc and the problem after bolt,
my cars is wira se manual, 1.6 flywheel,K&N filter, ssr rim, normal muffler and other just stock,
if i wan to bolt on turbo (0.4~0.6bar), and unichip,
what else should i mod??
cause now 1~2 gear the pick up still satisfied,but 3~4 gear is very slow,
run in kesas highway, cant even let go a van( new toyota high ace
),so planning 2 bolt on turbo,
but worried about the fc and the problem after bolt,
Last edited:
did u lightened ur flywheel as well??...hi,any1 can help to answer my question?
my cars is wira se manual, 1.6 flywheel,K&N filter, ssr rim, normal muffler and other just stock,
if i wan to bolt on turbo (0.4~0.6bar), and unichip,
what else should i mod??
cause now 1~2 gear the pick up still satisfied,but 3~4 gear is very slow,
run in kesas highway, cant even let go a van( new toyota high ace
so planning 2 bolt on turbo,
but worried about the fc and the problem after bolt,
sure ur fc gonna be higher then stock bro.that is a common thing that need to behi,any1 can help to answer my question?
my cars is wira se manual, 1.6 flywheel,K&N filter, ssr rim, normal muffler and other just stock,
if i wan to bolt on turbo (0.4~0.6bar), and unichip,
what else should i mod??
cause now 1~2 gear the pick up still satisfied,but 3~4 gear is very slow,
run in kesas highway, cant even let go a van( new toyota high ace
so planning 2 bolt on turbo,
but worried about the fc and the problem after bolt,
sacrifice once installing a turbo kit.fuel pump n injector also need to be upgrade.
thick metal gasket,the whole exhaust system,the turbo manifold,i/cooler.plumbing..etc
problematic or not depends on how ur mech install it n tune it.
Last edited:
- Jan 11, 2007
- 1,342
- 91
- 5,148
Hi, i m from spore, satria neo, wonder if i m able to get the micro-tech to support my ride here? Thanks....
, but if the fc is higher abit is ok 4 me.
well... getting a BOT is not only higher FC... maintenance and wear n tear also higher... so means u have to prepare more money n effort for maintenance... it all depends on how extreme ur car..
can you guys direct me to a site where a detailed explanation on what is done when bolting on a turbo on a 4G15? preferably with pics and in malaysia..thanks..i tried searching but to no avail..
after using the 1.6 flywheel on ur SE , can u really feel the different on ur pick up ? am using the same car as u ?hi,any1 can help to answer my question?
my cars is wira se manual, 1.6 flywheel,K&N filter, ssr rim, normal muffler and other just stock,
if i wan to bolt on turbo (0.4~0.6bar), and unichip,
what else should i mod??
cause now 1~2 gear the pick up still satisfied,but 3~4 gear is very slow,
run in kesas highway, cant even let go a van( new toyota high ace
so planning 2 bolt on turbo,
but worried about the fc and the problem after bolt,
- Jan 11, 2007
- 1,342
- 91
- 5,148
Lemme post something interesting from my vault of stored useful info obtained from google:
"Decreasing mass and rotational inertia will free up power quicker. Inertia is the property of matter resisting a change in motion. The flywheel resists a change in the speed of rotation of the driveshaft, consuming power during acceleration. A flywheel has mass and inertia. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/march03/ask_sarah/images/flywheel.jpgIt takes torque, the rotational equivalent of force, to start and stop its turning. The rotational equivalent of mass is the moment of inertia. The more mass an object is, the harder it is to get it to start or stop moving. Moment of inertia depends on the mass of an object and where it is concentrated close to the axis of rotation. Think of the flywheel as a disc. This oversimplifies the properties of a flywheel since a flywheel is not a homogenous mass but thicker in the center than the edges. However, it will make calculations easier to understand and still offers a good estimate. The formula for the moment of inertia, I, is: I=0.5mr^2. Holding r constant since the size of the flywheel is not changing you'll notice mass has a large effect on the moment of inertia. Substitute rotational equivalents for straight-line motion variables in Newton's second law of rotation to determine the amount of force exerted on an object. Use torque for force, moment of inertia for mass, and angular acceleration for acceleration.
Since a flywheel absorbs some of the energy generated by the engine during acceleration, lightening the flywheel increases the torque on the driveshaft since less energy is used to accelerate it and more is used to turn the drivewheels. Keep in mind it's not just how much mass is removed from the flywheel but where it is removed. The concentration of mass affects how much resistance the flywheel offers to changing rpm. Rotational inertia increases with the square of the distance of the axis or rotation. Removing weight on the edge of the flywheel is 4 times as good as from the midpoint between the center and the edge. Finally, a flywheel will not show much of a gain in horsepower on a dyno because it doesn't increase fuel or air and can't increase horsepower. Remember, you're not actually improving your car's power, just how quickly it can get to that power. An inertial dyno will show gains by the engine reaching a predetermined rpm sooner with a lightened flywheel."
Important points are highlighted in red. "Removing weight from the edge of the flywheel is 4 times better than removing it from the middle". Meaning that by putting on larger flywheels, u are effectively putting more weight at the edge of the ori flywheel. Which is the opposite of 'better'. So even if it is the same weight as the original smaller flywheel, it is still harder to spin, since more weight is further away from the center.
Eg. Take a broomstick, and hold the top part, and let it hang downwards. Then spin it like (A):
Then hold the broomstick from the middle point like in (B). Then spin it like Donatello. Then tell me which one is easier/harder to spin. Both of them is of the same mass. But one is easier to spin, as concentration of mass is nearer to the center point. One is harder to spin, as it has weight a whole lot further from the center.
Or imagine an ice skater. See when they put their arms further away from their body they spin slower, but when pulling back their arms closer they suddenly can spin faster? Same mass, but easier to spin when weight is closer to the center....for more info on this:
http://figureskating.about.com/od/figureskatingtechnique/f/spinspeed.htm
Im just still noobish, all these info i learnt from the internet, and it made sense....so if it is wrong, do tell me
Anyways, a theory as to why some may feel that their car is more powerful, have better pickup, car feels like 'jumping' when u let go of the clutch:
The larger flywheel stores more energy than the smaller/lighter one, so when u let go of the clutch (remember that more rotational inertia is harder to start/stop) you feel a 'kick', feels like ur engine is torquey, more willing to takeoff from standstill, hence u may feel that bigger/heavier gives u better pickup
Plus with a larger flywheel/clutch combo u do get a larger contact patch, so probably this makes it bite more than the older set....a bit more 'kick' when taking off from standstill...
Do correct me if i am wrong, still a noob who is passing along some info learnt from the internet....
I must say though, with a bigger flywheel, probably the car is easier to drive, as opposed to a car with a very much lightened flywheel, which is just the opposite...so this is a good thing, i guess
Cheers!
"Decreasing mass and rotational inertia will free up power quicker. Inertia is the property of matter resisting a change in motion. The flywheel resists a change in the speed of rotation of the driveshaft, consuming power during acceleration. A flywheel has mass and inertia. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/march03/ask_sarah/images/flywheel.jpgIt takes torque, the rotational equivalent of force, to start and stop its turning. The rotational equivalent of mass is the moment of inertia. The more mass an object is, the harder it is to get it to start or stop moving. Moment of inertia depends on the mass of an object and where it is concentrated close to the axis of rotation. Think of the flywheel as a disc. This oversimplifies the properties of a flywheel since a flywheel is not a homogenous mass but thicker in the center than the edges. However, it will make calculations easier to understand and still offers a good estimate. The formula for the moment of inertia, I, is: I=0.5mr^2. Holding r constant since the size of the flywheel is not changing you'll notice mass has a large effect on the moment of inertia. Substitute rotational equivalents for straight-line motion variables in Newton's second law of rotation to determine the amount of force exerted on an object. Use torque for force, moment of inertia for mass, and angular acceleration for acceleration.
Since a flywheel absorbs some of the energy generated by the engine during acceleration, lightening the flywheel increases the torque on the driveshaft since less energy is used to accelerate it and more is used to turn the drivewheels. Keep in mind it's not just how much mass is removed from the flywheel but where it is removed. The concentration of mass affects how much resistance the flywheel offers to changing rpm. Rotational inertia increases with the square of the distance of the axis or rotation. Removing weight on the edge of the flywheel is 4 times as good as from the midpoint between the center and the edge. Finally, a flywheel will not show much of a gain in horsepower on a dyno because it doesn't increase fuel or air and can't increase horsepower. Remember, you're not actually improving your car's power, just how quickly it can get to that power. An inertial dyno will show gains by the engine reaching a predetermined rpm sooner with a lightened flywheel."
Important points are highlighted in red. "Removing weight from the edge of the flywheel is 4 times better than removing it from the middle". Meaning that by putting on larger flywheels, u are effectively putting more weight at the edge of the ori flywheel. Which is the opposite of 'better'. So even if it is the same weight as the original smaller flywheel, it is still harder to spin, since more weight is further away from the center.
Eg. Take a broomstick, and hold the top part, and let it hang downwards. Then spin it like (A):
Then hold the broomstick from the middle point like in (B). Then spin it like Donatello. Then tell me which one is easier/harder to spin. Both of them is of the same mass. But one is easier to spin, as concentration of mass is nearer to the center point. One is harder to spin, as it has weight a whole lot further from the center.
Or imagine an ice skater. See when they put their arms further away from their body they spin slower, but when pulling back their arms closer they suddenly can spin faster? Same mass, but easier to spin when weight is closer to the center....for more info on this:
http://figureskating.about.com/od/figureskatingtechnique/f/spinspeed.htm
Im just still noobish, all these info i learnt from the internet, and it made sense....so if it is wrong, do tell me
Anyways, a theory as to why some may feel that their car is more powerful, have better pickup, car feels like 'jumping' when u let go of the clutch:
The larger flywheel stores more energy than the smaller/lighter one, so when u let go of the clutch (remember that more rotational inertia is harder to start/stop) you feel a 'kick', feels like ur engine is torquey, more willing to takeoff from standstill, hence u may feel that bigger/heavier gives u better pickup
Plus with a larger flywheel/clutch combo u do get a larger contact patch, so probably this makes it bite more than the older set....a bit more 'kick' when taking off from standstill...
Do correct me if i am wrong, still a noob who is passing along some info learnt from the internet....
I must say though, with a bigger flywheel, probably the car is easier to drive, as opposed to a car with a very much lightened flywheel, which is just the opposite...so this is a good thing, i guess
Cheers!
Last edited:
hi good morning to all proton driver.
steven from kl cheras, i drive proton iswara 1995 sedan 1.3 manual gear stock la, before i convert to MIVEC 4G92 manual i do something to my stock car such like
1. 1.8 flywheel take from mmc.
2. clutch 1.6
3. air filter open
4. exhaust pipe
5. extractor 4-1
6. lower the car ha ha.15" inch rim.
Now i already drive the mivec 3 years++ so far so good.
fuel comsumption rm 80.00 can run 400km. rm 50.00 can run 260km depend on the driver kepala also la.
steven from kl cheras, i drive proton iswara 1995 sedan 1.3 manual gear stock la, before i convert to MIVEC 4G92 manual i do something to my stock car such like
1. 1.8 flywheel take from mmc.
2. clutch 1.6
3. air filter open
4. exhaust pipe
5. extractor 4-1
6. lower the car ha ha.15" inch rim.
Now i already drive the mivec 3 years++ so far so good.
fuel comsumption rm 80.00 can run 400km. rm 50.00 can run 260km depend on the driver kepala also la.
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