~ my iswara ~ ^^
- Thread starter SkYwAlKeR
- Start date
err.... fuel needle turun faster.... my wallet gets thinner....
still got what arr.... :hmmmm:
ooo... performance ar??... rev smoother n faster at higher rpm lor.... now sit 4 ppl in my car also still can feel some g-force.... jz now tried 3 ppl on board, 1st n 2nd gear acceleration, my car squat a little....
consider satisfied kua, considering the budget i dump in... hahaha.... if i get branded ones, need around rm2k to siap pasang everything.... mine everything was under rm1k....
Nice.. the cam where you bought it ha? How much? I also want.. I see a SIOC member selling 292 degree regrind cam.. But he mentioned turn air cond then the car engine will shut off.. Why ar?ooo... performance ar??... rev smoother n faster at higher rpm lor.... now sit 4 ppl in my car also still can feel some g-force.... jz now tried 3 ppl on board, 1st n 2nd gear acceleration, my car squat a little....
consider satisfied kua, considering the budget i dump in... hahaha.... if i get branded ones, need around rm2k to siap pasang everything.... mine everything was under rm1k....
Sifu Sky, wanna ask hor. The mythelogy cam pulley and Pipercam high degrees cam, considering both, which one will u choose? and why? I got acknowledged that cam pulley is better to be considered as the first modification than the high degrees cam. I've weighted the mythelogy , i would say it is lighter bout 30%-40%. Then, need to replace the 3 belts. If im not wrong, should be the thicker ones. Can teach ar , sifuuuuuuuuuu?
*sorry if i use wrong term.. really noob here..
*sorry if i use wrong term.. really noob here..
- Jan 11, 2007
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wah sky nice thread u got going on here!
erm, kweng84, fyi, the mythelogy crank (not cam) pulley weighs less than 1 kg for the carburetted version while the stock one weighs 2.4 kgs, and only need to replace one belt, not 3...
erm, kweng84, fyi, the mythelogy crank (not cam) pulley weighs less than 1 kg for the carburetted version while the stock one weighs 2.4 kgs, and only need to replace one belt, not 3...
because the lift is too high mar.... at low revs/idle, air/fuel entering combustion chamber is not smooth.... and when firing is not available at certain stroke, engine loose power... thats why the higher degree the cam, the harder to idle at low rpm....
correct me if wrong.... i pakai hantam only...
errr.... u mean crankpulley arr??....
crankpulley is cheaper... less tuning required... jz plug n play...
camshaft is more expensive... need good tuner...
i would say mostly depend on u lor... camshaft powerband can be adjusted for top or mid range.... but LCP is usually for better pickup only....
as for other info, tofu sifoo answered u oledi lor...
thanks sifoo.....
- Jan 11, 2007
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kweng84, just fyi, like sky sed, an LCP helps with pickup, and there is also better revability throughout rpm, u can go for the mythelogy crank pulley, effect felt more during lower gears..this helps in improving drivability...
if like sky, u wanna tarik long long then get a racing cam...the wilder the spec, more high-end power but at the expense of torque...
if like sky, u wanna tarik long long then get a racing cam...the wilder the spec, more high-end power but at the expense of torque...
If u're not so sure of what you want kweng.. start off with a cam pulley..follow up with a crank pully(a basic one from thailand should more than do the trick..) and then grab yaself a proper street cam.. 272deg's and above if you really wanna feel anything although you'd have to sacrifice a lil bit in terms of drivability and mild idling/air conditioning consistency issues are inevitable..
BTW sky.. what's the idling like bro..? 1200revs per min..? how bout air conditioning..? stable..?
nolar.... off a/c, idle at 800-900 rpm... on a/c, idle at 1k rpm (coz got a non-predictable FICD adi)... still headache with the FICD... coz sometimes it will stuck at 2k rpm idle.... need to switch off n on the aircond again only rpm drops to 1k rpm...:stupid:
everything stable la... but can hear engine rpm go up and down abit... at cold start abit harder lo, coz my carb is manual choke....
Hey thanks to sifu-sifu tofu_manic , sky and tatayoung !!! A lot of info over there.. hehe :D
If just to improve drivability and not having instability of air conditioning or unexpected noise, should i just go for the crank pulley only? how bout the cam pulley? I'm trying to improve my car stability(chassis with strut bars), improve my pick up and having consistent accelerations and lastly, non-performance will be sound dampening. Need advice on the engine performance upgrades for 1.3 manual carb. Thanks.
If just to improve drivability and not having instability of air conditioning or unexpected noise, should i just go for the crank pulley only? how bout the cam pulley? I'm trying to improve my car stability(chassis with strut bars), improve my pick up and having consistent accelerations and lastly, non-performance will be sound dampening. Need advice on the engine performance upgrades for 1.3 manual carb. Thanks.
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- Jan 11, 2007
- 1,342
- 91
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u cant go wrong with a mythelogy crank pulley, i give 2 thumbs up but if others i dunno....bout the cam pulley, better get it with a street cam and install both one shot to save on tuning costs haha....
improve things on the intake and exhaust (hehe dis one u shud noe :P) 1st dunneed to go for expensive plugs and cables yet, my 2 sen opinion is dat only when u manage to cram in more air and more fuel then it is time for an ignition upgrade....if not there wont really be a difference...
hehe follow sifoo sky setup get a DGV or a DCNF...n then drivability wud have improve mucho...actually got a lot of things can do haha
kweng, what strut bar you taking? Why don't get fender bar? Fender bar work more in our car compare with strut bar itself. Get Fender bar, and rear strut bar then already improve alot.
Bro.. go for the crank pully and cam pully first.. if u're on a tight budget then the thai made one's should more than do the trick.. the cam pulley will help in the amplification of a certain powerband(of ur choice..) and the crank pulley is definitely gonna propell you to another level... that 'it feels light as hell' kinda thing is gonna hit you like 'Bham..!' chill... enjoy ya newly acquired additional power and if you still feel the need for more.. then by all means.. go ahead... but mind you.. aftermarket/lightened crank pulley's have been known to occasionally cause alternator issues.. weber's,highcams n so forth are 'proper' mods.. but they come at a cost and more often than not.. that cost is drivability... if it doesn't bother you then go ahead bro...
- Jan 11, 2007
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weber affects drivability? mebbe untuned ones la :P high cams troo la....
go mythelogy, will not have any issues...8++ gms vs. 2.3 kg stock huhuhu (dun worry, not salesman here, just giving honest feedback :P)
go mythelogy, will not have any issues...8++ gms vs. 2.3 kg stock huhuhu (dun worry, not salesman here, just giving honest feedback :P)
if jz to improve drivability without sacrificing anything, i recommend u get LCP n campulley... adjust ur powerband lower so u have lighter throttle response... as for highcams, get mildcams if u dont wanna sacrifice driveability.... of coz, power upgrade of mildcams wont be as significant as fullcams/racecams.... do cold air intake for ur air filter... exhaust, u should know better than us....
if u want more extreme, switch to electronic fuel injection.... get a standalone ecu and tune it up to ur preference...
as for strut bars... strut bars wont affect comfort... they improve comfort n handling by stiffening up the chassis, making it less flexy.... most effective ones are fender bars, rear bar and front bar... if got rear antiroll bar available, install that as well...
sound dampening... got money go for dynamat or autofoam lor.... less budget, use bitumen and superlon....
and also improve fuel consumption... hahaha...
boss, u installed adi LCP??... how much and how does it feels like??... damper or damperless??....
yeap... i believe properly tuned up weber doesnt affect driveability much... using the wrong air/fuel jetting and wrong AFR mixture usually the main cause of losing driveability...
as for highcams, as i said earlier, cams with degree 272 and below are good for street use as doesnt affect driveability much....
- Jan 11, 2007
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