I will be using compression tester to make sure its the right compression. But stock OEM gasket of 4G92 Mivec and Mivec pistons will make 12.5:1 or 12:1 or not ? I will be using standard mivec pistons. I don't know is it Mivec RS or not. :) But I don't mind, I have to focus on what I have now.
1.8L Mivec Conversion
- Thread starter ahmedshaikhani
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gear box issue?
static compression is by measurement... Uncompress volume and compressed volume....
Compression tester just to check the leak at chamber.
Can using the 0.4mm gasket..... But need to using race fuel..
I'm pretty much confuse with compression ratio. Maximum I can get is 96Ron, what should be the compression ratio ?
Static compression & Dynamic compression go Google it.... U will understand more...
U still need a experience workshop, they know what they should do....
We have many workshop but mitsubishi is upto evo only. Rest people play in Honda and Toyota.
oh... Ic..
Mivec piston +0.4mm gasket still can run with Ron97 fuel....
Some one had try 0.6mm with Ron95 still can ran.. just ned properly tune.
Another options is octane booster.... Not bad... Lucas I had try...
Sir, I tried using Dynamic CR calculator, but I couldn't get Cylinder head volume, deck height, piston dome volume. Stock OEM gasket is 0.8mm ? If I use 1.0mm gasket with Mivec pistons any idea how much CR I would get ? Please can you help me with the Dynamic CR calculations ? Thank You.
@all
Do I need adjustable absorbers also for good traction ? I'm already using Lowering springs.
---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:30 PM ----------
This is the picture of my car
Do I need adjustable absorbers also for good traction ? I'm already using Lowering springs.
---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:30 PM ----------
This is the picture of my car
i think if you can use the intake manifold from gen 1, then you should be able to use the ITBs from jenvey dynamics. For further details you can look at my blog The SP Files but do remember that this is a gen1.
the gearbox ratios are the hardest to solve as mentioned by many here. You can also try Adelia Magic in Japan as they make close ratio gearsets for the Mitsu gearbox or several other companies which can do them. All the stock gearboxes are made for a good balance between speed, accelertion and fuel consumption and therefore I believe it is not suitable for drag or circuit application. Custom made ratios to suit your application will be the best way forward, but these will cost a lot of money. I am using the mivec final drive on my 93 box, but even this has big rev drops between gear changes, and with big cams, you will be out of the powerband and have to wait till the revs catch up again. This is where the vtecs are quicker!
the gearbox ratios are the hardest to solve as mentioned by many here. You can also try Adelia Magic in Japan as they make close ratio gearsets for the Mitsu gearbox or several other companies which can do them. All the stock gearboxes are made for a good balance between speed, accelertion and fuel consumption and therefore I believe it is not suitable for drag or circuit application. Custom made ratios to suit your application will be the best way forward, but these will cost a lot of money. I am using the mivec final drive on my 93 box, but even this has big rev drops between gear changes, and with big cams, you will be out of the powerband and have to wait till the revs catch up again. This is where the vtecs are quicker!
I got your point, I'm having Mivec Gen 2 which is from CJ4A. Gen 2 Mivec final drive ratio is 4.6 which is better then Gen 1 gearbox. Regarding powerband we can engage mivec at lower rpms too. On stock mivec engages at 5,500rpm or 5,200rpm, but we can engage at 4,200rpm also. Final Drive 4.8 is available, is it worthy to buy 4.8 ? As stock final drive of Gen 2 is 4.6 already. Regarding ITB's most probably I'll be using from 4AGE 20V and will modify them. 4AGE 20v is available in bulk in Pakistan.
Specnically Speaking: B-series Gear Ratio Guide + More!
This link provides you with details for B16A gear ratios.
MirageAsti
Active Member
As for me on a different POV, I wouldn't change the final drive because my setup has enough torque to pull me through. It still depends whether you want to finish off the gears early or have a longer pull from each gears. This is my 2 cents haha.
1stly... mivec 1st gen n 2nd gen share the same port match for intake...only different is the position of the intake
2nd... gear ratio's needs to be calculated right after u build your engine....in order for u to hv a right pull u need to know how healthy, torq n hp your car is pulling.....im using a 1.8 japan gb and i can still pull faster than a mivec gb....
3rd....engaging mivec to early would just get u smoked in dust even by a stock bone car...
4th...in my opinion... itb on mivec is waste of time as u can never get it right with piggy back accept standalone n u gona waste alot on tunning....u want strong low ..mid n high...get edelbrok performer x intake...trust me u will forget about itb then...
its just my point of view as im a mivec player as well n i hv tried every single setup possible...
2nd... gear ratio's needs to be calculated right after u build your engine....in order for u to hv a right pull u need to know how healthy, torq n hp your car is pulling.....im using a 1.8 japan gb and i can still pull faster than a mivec gb....
3rd....engaging mivec to early would just get u smoked in dust even by a stock bone car...
4th...in my opinion... itb on mivec is waste of time as u can never get it right with piggy back accept standalone n u gona waste alot on tunning....u want strong low ..mid n high...get edelbrok performer x intake...trust me u will forget about itb then...
its just my point of view as im a mivec player as well n i hv tried every single setup possible...
What I'm thinking that after conversion I'll stick on stock gearbox, and will figure out according to the power what to do.
Thanks sir, can u share the details regarding your conversion along with pictures, Thank You.
Thanks a lot sir, but the issue is that we don't have dyno available in our country, so how to calculate gear ratios ? Can I ask you why engaging mivec early will result this ? Can you share some pictures of edlbrok performer x intake ? Is it in available in Malaysia ? I need the standalone or piggyback for mivec, easy to tune. Please recommend me one, all ecu available aren't plug and play right ? I plan to use JUN Stage 2 Cams, with valves, springs and retainers, standard mivec pistons, Acl race bearings, stock 4G93 SOHC rods, mivec oil pump. Will I be able to rev high like 9K rpm on stock rods with head port polished and cams ? What should be the gasket thickness, keeping in mind I plan to use Standard mivec pistons and CR is 12.5:1 or 12:1.
i have been using the ITB setup on my 4g93 wout mivec for a couple of years now and it has been performing flawlessly. sizing of the bodies and the overall length of the bodies + manifold+ trumpet is important to achieve power to be produced at the desired rev range. And this can be altered to suit your requirement, i.e if you want stronger mid range, or top end for example, by simply varying the induction length. Also the exhaust header setup is important, I have to date dyno tested about 4 different header on my car and with varying results.
The power curve is important to determine the gearing setup, as you would always want each gear to fall right in the powerband when shifting up and this cannot be done simply by just altering the final drive. Perhaps if you have a very flat torque curve and linear pull thru your rev range, then this problem can be masked, but generally this is not the case.
also i would avoid stock rods for 9k rpm application, or at least you should have some arp rod bolts, to prevent rod stretch which results in spun bearing. i know some still use still stock rods, but if reliability and durability of the engine is important then its a point worth considering.
The power curve is important to determine the gearing setup, as you would always want each gear to fall right in the powerband when shifting up and this cannot be done simply by just altering the final drive. Perhaps if you have a very flat torque curve and linear pull thru your rev range, then this problem can be masked, but generally this is not the case.
also i would avoid stock rods for 9k rpm application, or at least you should have some arp rod bolts, to prevent rod stretch which results in spun bearing. i know some still use still stock rods, but if reliability and durability of the engine is important then its a point worth considering.
Currently what I have finalized I will be using ITB's later, first step is to convert my 4G93 SOHC into 4G93 DOHC Mivec. Regarding gear ratios, I need dyno in order to test it. Which is not available in my country. Here is the list of hardware I will be using.
1- Jun Stage 2 Cams, with valves, retainers and springs.
2- Stock OEM gasket 0.8mm.
3- 4G93 SOHC Block with Mivec Pump
4- 4G92 Mivec Pistons Standard.
5- 4G93 Stock Rods
6- ACL Race Bearings.
7- Edlbrok Performer x Intake, but still I don't know where to source out in Malaysia.
8- Recommend me a standalone, easy to tune. Are their any plug and play standalone available for 4G92 Mivec ? Do I need to add an amplifier for the ignition if I go for standalone ? If yes then which one ? Remember my Mivec is CJ4A.
Mivec Gen 1 and Gen 2 max rpm limit is 8500 ?
well your setup sounds good...well u dont have to worry on your stock bone rod if ur setup is right....well ofcourse ARP bolt n studs are recormanded if ur not sure of what ur pulling..
well i doubt 0.8mm gasket will be sufficient as in 1.6 block it self the CR is so high with stock piston...imagine u putting the same piston in a higher stroke block.. do the maths buddy
Edelbrook can be purchase easily in any of the performance shop in sunway from original and immitation onces...u can even source it from mudah.com.
well if u have to much of money to spend haltech p500 or microtech lt10s will do but if u want something cheaper and reliable...e-manage would do the same trick...
with cam jun type 2.. u can easily rev it to 10k rpm close eyes... i am even reving my mivec 1.8 with stock cams to 9.5k rpm easily....with stock rods n bolts..just piston high comp...even my bearings are normal acl bearings only...
what matters is getting it right
Sir I'm worried about the CR thing, my aim is to get 12.5:1 or 12:1 CR. Recommend me a gasket, I tried to use online dynamic cr calculators, but I didn't have sufficient figures like Deck height, piston dome volume so couldn't end up with gasket. Okie Now In list I have to add ARP Studs and Bolts too, but do I need to add ignition amplifier for standalone or piggyback ? Is e-manage is easy to tune ? Remember I'm using CJ4A which is based on two coils for 4 cylinders. With this setup how much whp will I hit ? Just a guess.
MirageAsti
Active Member
I am using the M7 EM-CON which is an equivalent to the Greddy Emanage blue, I've got my fuel map trimmed but not my ignition map. My tuner was worried that it would burn my coils, but I've asked around and everyone said it would be fine, I'm having my ignition map tuned tonight. I'll let you know the outcomes
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