What paint is best to DIY spray any part of the car body?
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Those DPI auto paints are pretty okay, and they're a close match for stock standard colours on local cars.
But they're just acryllic based, may not stick on to the car's surface if you don't use a primer. I think DPI also has primer for the paints.
But I prefer a cheaper alternative - Ace Hardware's rust proofing enamel spray. This thing is sticky as hell, it can stick to any surface and won't peel off, and before it fully flashes (in around 10-15 minutes) you can spray on the DPI auto paint and it won't come off after that. The enamel spray also comes with a variable nozzle, so it's quite easy to lay an even coat of enamel as the primer.
DPI auto paints are quite fine, so they won't drip easily unless you really muck up big time. Other than DPI, Krylon paints are easily the best available locally. They'll never drip or bunch up or creep. But you can't find Krylon paints that correspond to usual car colours.
After that, don't forget to apply a clear coat. DPI's acryllic clear coat is okay, it's higher quality than RM5 laquers. For a more resilient clear coat, you can use Ace Hardware's polyurethane clear coat. It's weatherproof and resistant to chips and scratches.
But they're just acryllic based, may not stick on to the car's surface if you don't use a primer. I think DPI also has primer for the paints.
But I prefer a cheaper alternative - Ace Hardware's rust proofing enamel spray. This thing is sticky as hell, it can stick to any surface and won't peel off, and before it fully flashes (in around 10-15 minutes) you can spray on the DPI auto paint and it won't come off after that. The enamel spray also comes with a variable nozzle, so it's quite easy to lay an even coat of enamel as the primer.
DPI auto paints are quite fine, so they won't drip easily unless you really muck up big time. Other than DPI, Krylon paints are easily the best available locally. They'll never drip or bunch up or creep. But you can't find Krylon paints that correspond to usual car colours.
After that, don't forget to apply a clear coat. DPI's acryllic clear coat is okay, it's higher quality than RM5 laquers. For a more resilient clear coat, you can use Ace Hardware's polyurethane clear coat. It's weatherproof and resistant to chips and scratches.
OEM paints?? just get DPI paints... find the same color code...
this is how it look like... been using this paint for some parts on my car....
http://khguan.fotopic.net/p29883782.html
this is how it look like... been using this paint for some parts on my car....
http://khguan.fotopic.net/p29883782.html
ACE Hardware or Jaya Jusco ^_^
Can find most of these stuff at Ace Hardware. You can get DPI autopaints at Eneos, or a larger selection at this paint shop near Kinrara. They can even order for you based on your chassis colour code (read it off the label on your firewall).
If you wanna respray your whole hood, then I think it's more realistic to take it to a painter. These hand-held spray cans are only good enough for small surfaces, for touch up, etc.
If you're adventurous, go ahead.. just make sure you have a steady hand, lots of patience, and invest in a couple of "Can Guns" (can get these from Ace Hardware). Can Guns make spray painting very much easier.
The most important thing - forget about cheap acryllics. Go for quality stuff from the first step to minimize the mistakes. It'll save lots of time in having to sand down the layers and start over.
If you wanna respray your whole hood, then I think it's more realistic to take it to a painter. These hand-held spray cans are only good enough for small surfaces, for touch up, etc.
If you're adventurous, go ahead.. just make sure you have a steady hand, lots of patience, and invest in a couple of "Can Guns" (can get these from Ace Hardware). Can Guns make spray painting very much easier.
The most important thing - forget about cheap acryllics. Go for quality stuff from the first step to minimize the mistakes. It'll save lots of time in having to sand down the layers and start over.
air brush will work best for cars..
the compressor cost about Rm500 (3 horse power-good enough to spray a Perdana hood), the spray gun cost about RM70-400 depending which brand.. ofcos japans want the best.. one of it is KINKI.. atleast a 4 litre of thinner.. and most important is a canvas or those a closed area/garage.. spray spreads a kinda fumes, n it will attract all sort of weird bugs n they end up at the surface... did once for my cousin perdana, screwed up..
So me advice, if dont hav any of those, better sent it to the shops/pros.. or u will be wasting yr money n time.. cheers ;)..
the compressor cost about Rm500 (3 horse power-good enough to spray a Perdana hood), the spray gun cost about RM70-400 depending which brand.. ofcos japans want the best.. one of it is KINKI.. atleast a 4 litre of thinner.. and most important is a canvas or those a closed area/garage.. spray spreads a kinda fumes, n it will attract all sort of weird bugs n they end up at the surface... did once for my cousin perdana, screwed up..
So me advice, if dont hav any of those, better sent it to the shops/pros.. or u will be wasting yr money n time.. cheers ;)..
speaking of eneos, i notice quite few of their stuff drop price.. can compete with sunway oo.. juz dat some of the gadgets like rsm or safc cant do installation cuz no qualified mech.. hehe.. sory ganggu u thread nitrus.
I'm not sure about the address, but basically, if you're coming from TPM headed towards Puchong, it'll be on the left hand side of the road. It's on this junction headed to a row of shophouses. The shop is the one with a big colourful signboard. Really forgot the details.. maybe if I drop by there, I can check it out for sure.
Nitrus, if you wanna spray your bonnet, the advantage of using the rustproofing enamel is that if you apply many layers, the surface of the bonnet will not be easily exposed by stone chips. The enamel forms a nice tough surface.
For instance, when I got my rear suspension components, I didn't want to install them in half-cut condition, so I took my power drill with a steel-wire brush to remove all the paint from the lower arms etc. The naked shiny steel can get easily corroded, so I had to quickly wash it in water to rinse off all the dust, and wipe it + dry it under the hot sun.
I used a usual green gauze (those rough dishwashing gauzes) to scrub off yellow spots (the beginnings of rust) and proceeded to coat the parts with the enamel paint. I laid around 3 layers, letting them cure about 1 day per layer, to make sure they're fully dried. For the last layer, I laid a layer of grey acryllic around 15 minutes after spraying the enamel. That formed a hard, shiny surface. The enamel is a bit 'soft' and 'gummy', it's not hard and brittle like acryllic.
But the end result - till this day, when my car is jacked up at the mechanic's, my friend would ask me if I had just installed the suspension parts weeks ago. They still looked quite new, with hardly any stone chips. These are suspension arms, mind you, always subjected to crap flying at them.
Nitrus, if you wanna spray your bonnet, the advantage of using the rustproofing enamel is that if you apply many layers, the surface of the bonnet will not be easily exposed by stone chips. The enamel forms a nice tough surface.
For instance, when I got my rear suspension components, I didn't want to install them in half-cut condition, so I took my power drill with a steel-wire brush to remove all the paint from the lower arms etc. The naked shiny steel can get easily corroded, so I had to quickly wash it in water to rinse off all the dust, and wipe it + dry it under the hot sun.
I used a usual green gauze (those rough dishwashing gauzes) to scrub off yellow spots (the beginnings of rust) and proceeded to coat the parts with the enamel paint. I laid around 3 layers, letting them cure about 1 day per layer, to make sure they're fully dried. For the last layer, I laid a layer of grey acryllic around 15 minutes after spraying the enamel. That formed a hard, shiny surface. The enamel is a bit 'soft' and 'gummy', it's not hard and brittle like acryllic.
But the end result - till this day, when my car is jacked up at the mechanic's, my friend would ask me if I had just installed the suspension parts weeks ago. They still looked quite new, with hardly any stone chips. These are suspension arms, mind you, always subjected to crap flying at them.
Can lah.. but don't spray without a primer, that's for sure.
For the clear coat, use a good one. Quite often, the cheap RM5 laquer doesn't leave an even surface. On the other hand, the more expensive polyurethane clear coats are self-levelling and dries to a glossy finish. Those would certainly be better. Or, you can also use 3M clear coat sealant, that is not sprayed-on, but you apply it with a buffing tool or a polishing tool. It will make the paint shine, and it's also quite weather proof. Runs for over RM100 per bottle, I think. With one bottle, you can whack your whole car maybe twice over, I guess.
For the clear coat, use a good one. Quite often, the cheap RM5 laquer doesn't leave an even surface. On the other hand, the more expensive polyurethane clear coats are self-levelling and dries to a glossy finish. Those would certainly be better. Or, you can also use 3M clear coat sealant, that is not sprayed-on, but you apply it with a buffing tool or a polishing tool. It will make the paint shine, and it's also quite weather proof. Runs for over RM100 per bottle, I think. With one bottle, you can whack your whole car maybe twice over, I guess.
DPI autospray is around RM17 per can, and it's a small can. It sticks fairly well to most surfaces, and as long as you lay a few thin coats at a time, it won't flake off easily.
The rustproofing enamel is just around RM19.90 per can, and it's a huge can, looks like around 1.5 times the size or normal Arrow or Dove spray cans. The enamel paint can also stick like crazy on any surface, even smooth plastic.
The rustproofing enamel is just around RM19.90 per can, and it's a huge can, looks like around 1.5 times the size or normal Arrow or Dove spray cans. The enamel paint can also stick like crazy on any surface, even smooth plastic.
