Honda EK9 - Buying one but need guidance

Jazz Jackrabbit

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Jazz Jackrabbit

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I am contemplating on buying a sport cars within budget under RM 130,000. Among my choices were:

-Mazda RX-8 (top choice)
-Mazda RX-7
-Nissan 350Z
-Mitsubishi Evolution 7 / 8


But at the same I am quite concern about the FC and comfort of the ride as I will be using it for daily drive as I have no other car.

At some point I even consider these cars as well:

-Ford Focus TDCi
-Honda Civic FD2 with Modulo Kit
-BMW 325i with M3 kit (there's a couple few selling for RM 100,000)


My friend asked me.. what criteria do I really want actually?

I said... I want a car that I can use to go anywhere as my daily drive.. not too scary of fuel consumption like Mazda RX-8 (hell that car actually drinks more fuel than 350Z.. almost on par with Nissan GT-R :stupid: ) yet at the same time looks good.

From my top choice.. the only cars that looks good in my eyes are:

-Mazda RX-8 (looks very nice and stylish with MazdaSpeed Bodykit but rotary engine.. later blow.. the whole rebuild cost can get another second car already.. and the torque is so sad.. I think my Wira 1.6 is much better in terms of torque)
-Nissan 350Z (damn hot.. but 2 seaters.. what a bummer)
-Honda Civic FD2 with bodykit (very nice.. but not a performance car.. so sad)


And suddenly my friend asked me.. "Would you settle for something a bit older.. not quite original but is a performance car with good looks as well.. and best of all.. cost much less than even half of your previous budget?"

I said hell.. why not?

He said.. go look for Honda Civic EK9 (original) or Honda Civic EK9 converted from something else with B18CR engine.

I went home.. straight to my PC.. internet and to Google Image and have a look at what EK9 looks like.. and I'm hooked with this car.

I went to Mudah.my and Carlist.my as well.. and found a couple few. But from what I can see... most of the EK9 are converted and not original.



So my questions:

1. Is converted EK9.. for example original body EJ6 converted fully to EK9 with B18CR engine.. perform as good.. if not better than originally made EK9 Type-R?

2. How much is original EK9 price is?

3. The one I'm eyeing right now.. is a black EK9 converted from EJ6 priced at RM 66,000.. as I'm quite new with Honda.. I am not quite familiar with standard pricing of Honda converted cars.

Is this black EK9 (original body EJ6) justifiable at RM 66,000?

4. I noticed a lot and different kind of engine in these converted EJ6 to EK9 cars. Most famous seems to be B16B (I assume this is what under the hood of the original EK9).. B18C GSR and B18CR.

Which one is much more recommended for me? Criteria.. daily use but at the same time often traveling from Penang to Melaka and Negeri Sembilan.. at least twice a month.


5. B18C GSR vs B18CR.. what's the difference?


6. Finally.. a golden question. How much loan I can get.. particularly for this car:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/cars-for-sale/355709-honda-civic-2-door-ek-96-a.html

or this...

Honda EK9 2 Door - Cars for sale Negeri Sembilan - Mudah.my

and.. is this two a good deal?? Bang for buck and safe??

Thanks guys.. and do welcome me in this Honda forum.. I'm very new to Honda.. glad to be part of the family :)
 

Kevin Lee

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Kevin Lee

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hi there

EK9 is a nice choice, but i wouldn't choose it because they are thief magnets, unless you have the most powerful security systems installed.

there are many other cars you can consider I suppose, but do you have a family, do you require a sedan, a coupe or a hatchback?

And also the EK9 is getting older, no loan plus spare parts will get lesser as time goes by
 

Jazz Jackrabbit

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Jazz Jackrabbit

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Below RM 60,000... do you have any choice you can recommend?

Powerful yet easy to maintain (and loan still available??)


After some discussion with my friends.. I felt like I don't want to spend more than RM 60,000 - RM 70,000 for cars anymore.. so technically speaking I have scraped my wish for RX-8 / 350Z / Evo 8 / BMW etc.. just want something powerful.. easy to maintain and still looks good (EK9 with B18CR have all these characteristics.. unfortunately I don't like the idea of driving thief magnets as well).. :(
 

beatnik

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beatnik

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Evo also a thief magnet.. any modded cars with recaro seats inside are also thief magnet..
Just buy your favourite car, install good alarm, gps tracking system and enjoy your ride :D

Car below year 99 is difficult to get loan (please correct me if im wrong).. maybe can arrange for credit service..

Maybe other forum members know how to obtain bank loan for year 97-2000.. cuz I would like to know too.. lol
 

s1tl

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s1tl

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So my questions:

1. Is converted EK9.. for example original body EJ6 converted fully to EK9 with B18CR engine.. perform as good.. if not better than originally made EK9 Type-R?
As per your links ive already talked to the owners before and i found out their cars is quit edecent, no chasis damage, as ur inquiry about the EJ6 body, i can tell you, EJ6 chasis is made in japan, QC from japan and assembled in M'sia only. yes, it will perform as good as the ek9 Type R but with minor suspention mods, disc brake mods and 5 lug nut mods to be on par with the real ek9 -r

2. How much is original EK9 price is?
Original EK9 is very rare in m'sia mostly is converted, but its most likely to cost more than 60k. I have an uncle who works in honda from the old times, and he has the experience to tell me, if you ever find cheap EK9 means their chasis has been damaged, EK9 chassis is the most important thing to its performance as its NA, once the chasis is damaged, then there will be alot of long term problems.

3. The one I'm eyeing right now.. is a black EK9 converted from EJ6 priced at RM 66,000.. as I'm quite new with Honda.. I am not quite familiar with standard pricing of Honda converted cars.
Is this black EK9 (original body EJ6) justifiable at RM 66,000?

The black ej6 is extremely overpriced, let me calculate it out for u.
EJ6 body with stock D series engine is around 25k tops market price, as long the chasis is good there is no prob,
as per convert to EK9, u will need a good half cut head, and it will probably cost around 8k for a good one with low milage of coz, handling fees, and installation will round up to around 13-15k plus puspakon thingys,
mods to increase performance to par with ek9 will cost u around another 5k maybe, all in maximum the price is still around 45,000!
those people sell at overpriced price tags because its not an urgent sale and many ppl is eyeing on these cars as its rare and powerful, imagine B16c 150hp which can hit 180 in 3 gears. :proud:

4. I noticed a lot and different kind of engine in these converted EJ6 to EK9 cars. Most famous seems to be B16B (I assume this is what under the hood of the original EK9).. B18C GSR and B18CR.
anything from B16C B16A B18CR will do great, but dont go for B20B as it will have massive welding under the car and it will be a scary long term choice, B20B is form the CRV and it does not have VTEC, they mod in into VTEC and hence the welding, i perfornally feel B18CR is more than enought.

Which one is much more recommended for me? Criteria.. daily use but at the same time often traveling from Penang to Melaka and Negeri Sembilan.. at least twice a month.


5. B18C GSR vs B18CR.. what's the difference?
this i not sure =D

6. Finally.. a golden question. How much loan I can get.. particularly for this car:

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforu...r-ek-96-a.html

or this...

Honda EK9 2 Door - Cars for sale Negeri Sembilan - Mudah.my
Loan wise, i think maximum they would give is around 30plus K as ived asked the bank before

and.. is this two a good deal?? Bang for buck and safe??

if the 66k one is willing to lower its price it would be a good deal as for the 53k hmm im somewhat skeptical...
 

arrowhead

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arrowhead

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let me clarify somethings based on my knowledge.

1. EK9's chassis is way stronger and better than a normal EJ. its an out-of-the-factory track ready car

2. its rare. if theres any seller around, the market price would be a buyer-seller agreed price. there's no 1 fixed price.

3. 66k for a EJ6 is not overpriced. just imagine the effort by the previous owner to convert it to a EK9 replica. if u say stock ej6 is 25K (which i highly doubt so), halfcut around 13-14k, add on performance parts around 5k? truth be told, u must be dreaming. it more than just getting the halfcut, adding 5k to performance and buying the car... there will be sleepless nights on minor tweaking and changing of other wear tear parts aside from timing belts/engine oil. also, interior parts aren't cheap. if u fully convert the interior i believe it'll easily cost u 5k or so as well. so, 66k isn't really fully justifiable, but its around there. again, buyer-seller agreement on price. but if u search, most ek's are around that price.

4. there are 4 types of b-series with vtec head, b16a, b16b, b18c gsr and b18c type r. b16a is of course the least powerful, but in truth, its not bad for beginners. ek9 original comes with b16b, it has higher comp, more "aggressive" cams as compared to the b16a. b18c gsr comes from a dc2 and b18cr comes from a dc2r. which is recommended? all is good. but b18cr is the most powerful among the lot. i have no idea what u mean by b20 has a massive welding below/under the car. its a direct plug and play and we can register it with JPJ. if u weld below ur car, u think u will be able to register??

5. b18c gsr and b18c r. the diff:
Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-duration, high-durability camshaft
Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
Spark plug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
Crankshaft - Full-counterweight, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
Connecting Rod - Custom TypeR rod, high-durability, lightened
Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
Intake Manifold - Custom tuning, single-port type.
Throttle Body - 62 mm (2.4 in) wide-mouth throttle body.
Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
Port Buffing done by hand. For 98 Spec port buffing is done by machine
Fastening of Connecting Rod done with micrometer.
98 Spec engine has stainless steel 4-1 exhaust manifold to increase torque


6. loan? ok this one i dont know.
 

s1tl

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s1tl

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i already viewed cars with B20 blocks =)
and EJ chasis is the same with EK chassis, both made in japan, i have human sources that worked in honda factories that was involved in producing the EJ and EK chasis
 

rydell

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rydell

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loan from boustead credit is only 20k, 7.75% interest, 5 years tenure for 97~, 4 years for below 96

better u get personal loan, cgs;credit guarantee scheme, u could get around 50k easily provided good financial background, and the interest is very reasonable, varies from 5%-6% if calculated as flat rate!
 

arrowhead

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arrowhead

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I'm very sure the ek9 has a much stronger chassis than an EJ. Even if u were to compare with an EK4, EK9 is still the stronger of the two. Correct me if I'm wrong. And as for the welding on b20, what welding are those? It doesn't require welding to any part.
 
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aalto

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aalto

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Get a stock EK4 or Ori EG6 and plonk in a stock K20A.
35-50K for car + 30K for K20a conversion. 70K-80K max

Stock K20a in light chassis = good PWR, fuel consumption, reliability (K20a is newer engine & tough as hell). And you can easily chase down DC5/FD2Rs.... :biggrin: .....sigh...If only I had 30K to burn...
 

EGNINE

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EGNINE

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let me clarify somethings based on my knowledge.

1. EK9's chassis is way stronger and better than a normal EJ. its an out-of-the-factory track ready car

2. its rare. if theres any seller around, the market price would be a buyer-seller agreed price. there's no 1 fixed price.

3. 66k for a EJ6 is not overpriced. just imagine the effort by the previous owner to convert it to a EK9 replica. if u say stock ej6 is 25K (which i highly doubt so), halfcut around 13-14k, add on performance parts around 5k? truth be told, u must be dreaming. it more than just getting the halfcut, adding 5k to performance and buying the car... there will be sleepless nights on minor tweaking and changing of other wear tear parts aside from timing belts/engine oil. also, interior parts aren't cheap. if u fully convert the interior i believe it'll easily cost u 5k or so as well. so, 66k isn't really fully justifiable, but its around there. again, buyer-seller agreement on price. but if u search, most ek's are around that price.

4. there are 4 types of b-series with vtec head, b16a, b16b, b18c gsr and b18c type r. b16a is of course the least powerful, but in truth, its not bad for beginners. ek9 original comes with b16b, it has higher comp, more "aggressive" cams as compared to the b16a. b18c gsr comes from a dc2 and b18cr comes from a dc2r. which is recommended? all is good. but b18cr is the most powerful among the lot. i have no idea what u mean by b20 has a massive welding below/under the car. its a direct plug and play and we can register it with JPJ. if u weld below ur car, u think u will be able to register??

5. b18c gsr and b18c r. the diff:
Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-duration, high-durability camshaft
Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
Spark plug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
Crankshaft - Full-counterweight, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
Connecting Rod - Custom TypeR rod, high-durability, lightened
Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
Intake Manifold - Custom tuning, single-port type.
Throttle Body - 62 mm (2.4 in) wide-mouth throttle body.
Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
Port Buffing done by hand. For 98 Spec port buffing is done by machine
Fastening of Connecting Rod done with micrometer.
98 Spec engine has stainless steel 4-1 exhaust manifold to increase torque


6. loan? ok this one i dont know.
agreed and sound more reasonable to me...

when doing conversion its not all about money.. effort and time also should be considered as money... most people whom i knew sell their car after 1 or 2 years after conversion becoz alot of problem arise due to conversion...make sure u get the right car and not a problematic converted car
 

arrowhead

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arrowhead

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Get a stock EK4 or Ori EG6 and plonk in a stock K20A.
35-50K for car + 30K for K20a conversion. 70K-80K max

Stock K20a in light chassis = good PWR, fuel consumption, reliability (K20a is newer engine & tough as hell). And you can easily chase down DC5/FD2Rs.... :biggrin: .....sigh...If only I had 30K to burn...
u wont chase down DC5/FD2R bro, u'll overtake them without much effort!
 

har1th7

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har1th7

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daily drive...
comfort...

(1) Honda CF4
(2) Honda CL7

(3) Caldina GT4
(4) Subaru
(5) Evo 7

For Rm 130k, there A LOT of performance car u can get....

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Agree with these set-up...
(A) EG + K20 = can eat turbo, dc5, 350z,evo for breakfast.
(B) Ek + B20B = rocket
 
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loose_end

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loose_end

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If you get an EK9 , can't use as a daily drive .. Got to keep it at home .. However , at home also not safe .. I wonder where else to keep it
 

gotboost33

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gotboost33

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i already viewed cars with B20 blocks =)
and EJ chasis is the same with EK chassis, both made in japan, i have human sources that worked in honda factories that was involved in producing the EJ and EK chasis

I am working for HM also! Who tell you EJ and EK chassis is the same? Last time i was driving a EJ6 hatchback! The rigidity and total balance of the chassis is totally different! Try install a EK9 rear anti roll bar into the stock EJ chassis u will know what i mean after 3 months!