Firewall grommets and running cables.

Isn't high boost more due to waste gate, right? Blow valve only releases the boost to the atmosphere to get Pshhhh sound....
 
I see, here's the full story. Originally there would be a loud "Pshhhhhh" under heavy acceleration/boost, that's when I presumed something was leaking. I had the vehicle smoke tested and they found no leaks. At that point, I changed the factory BOV for an aftermarket recirculating one. (Thinking it was failing) No more "Pshhhh" noise at high boost. Problem solved, or so I thought.

Only now I discover it running at 13psi. I presume it was running too higher boost earlier and the stock BOV was failing hence the "Pshhhh" noise and the new BOV is able to cope with the higher pressure.
Whats failed, how can I test the Wastegate?

Next problem is after installing an Apexi Power Intake (Pod filter) the engine will, when going up a slight incline, drop revs from say 1,100 to 1,000rpm and back up and down again constantly, shudder at times.

This all doesn't sound good :/

BOV only hold boost during acceleration. Higher boost level isn't really related to leaky BOV. Leaky BOV will make you loose boost actually.

The open pod filter synthom is OKAY. I have that too. In fact mine usually idles around 800rpm and during inclined hill climb, when I release the pedal, it will drop to 500rpm and comes up again. It's okay as long as your engine doesn't stall. No need to worry.
 
Sorry I probably didn't word that right. I realize its the waste gate, but the factory BOV was opening at WOT constantly until I replaced it. I assume it was doing this because it couldn't handle the 15psi that I have just now discovered is being run.

It's booked into the Turbo shop next week to get the waste gate looked at.

Pod filter issue is worse that I thought. It won't hold a steady RPM when driving at all now. Its constantly jumping up and down.

Thanks for the tips guys.
 
Skullx,

If your RPM swings up an down during acceleration, it may be a synthom of MAF sensor failure. WHen you replace the open pod, did you touch the MAF sensor? Please do not clean and touch the netting surface.
 
Yes, I did clean the maf sensor with Maf cleaner. I also damaged the screen after I slipped with the bolts. Looks like ill be getting a new one!

Thanks.
 
Oh no!!!! Even if you have the cleaner, please do not clean it. That thing is super fragile. We have a few members damaging it after cleaning. It's not cheap either. A new one is around USD350-400.
 
Hasn't solved the issue unfortunately, any other ideas?

You mentioned you changed to pod filter means have adapter? Check if the air path is not covered/blocked at all. Mine I tried once, bought cheap open pod from kedai abang. The adapter for the MAF blocks the opening by a very small margin like less then 1mm. Initially was okay but after one day I think the ECU corrects itself, the idling and driving totally change. Went home took out and replace with my original filter setup and everything went back to original...:driver:
 
Skullx, do this.

1) pull out the battery terminal, let the ECU resets. Try again.
2) if 1 fail, reset ECU and use the new MAF with the original air box. Try again.
 
Skullx, do this.

1) pull out the battery terminal, let the ECU resets. Try again.
2) if 1 fail, reset ECU and use the new MAF with the original air box. Try again.

Yup, trial and error sometimes can hit the spot.....:driver:
 
Hi guys,

Just giving an update. Had the car in the repair workshop today and they found that the waste gate was operating fine. They checked a/f ratio with a wideband sensor and everything was normal. They are pretty sure it's been tuned before and had the boost + other stuff modified. It was peaking at 14psi and they say that should be fine.

As for the RPM issue I disconnected the battery letting the ECU reset, the car kept dieing on idle until I took it for a good drive, seems to be all okay so far.

Thanks
 
Hi guys,

Just giving an update. Had the car in the repair workshop today and they found that the waste gate was operating fine. They checked a/f ratio with a wideband sensor and everything was normal. They are pretty sure it's been tuned before and had the boost + other stuff modified. It was peaking at 14psi and they say that should be fine.

As for the RPM issue I disconnected the battery letting the ECU reset, the car kept dieing on idle until I took it for a good drive, seems to be all okay so far.

Thanks
Good to hear that. Just monitor and see how it goes.....:driver:
 
I have found a good place to run cables. In passenger footwell near to center console where the ecu is. If you lift the carpet there is a white cover held on by two small bolts. Take this off and you will see. This is where the main wiring loom goes through to the engine.
 


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