Engine oil and petrol brand (most controversial topic lol)

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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4g63 ? Theres many variant for malaysia style of evo ma.. :confused::confused:
Some people even consider 4g13 or 4g15 to be a "evo" engine. People tend to confuse between lancer and an evolution
Those people talking nonsense loh. VR4 plus Evo 1 to 9 are the evo engine 4G63T. Only Evo X have 4B11T
 

eques

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eques

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Those people talking nonsense loh. VR4 plus Evo 1 to 9 are the evo engine 4G63T. Only Evo X have 4B11T
Ya La, but didn't want to be rude haha. Malaysian tend to think if it's Mitsubishi or mivec it's who engine. Didn't know that guy knows his stuff or not. Some people even thinks dohc means evo while shoc is the lancer version
 

Izso

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4g63t evo3, doesnt feel heavy,liqui moly race tech gt1 10w-60, been using for 3 cycle already. not disappointing and no missing oil after hard drive. Now saw petronas race oil 10w-60 full syn..not sure the price but keen to try, better if less than current EO..hahaha :rofl:
Very little brands out there is more expensive than Liqui Moly :biggrin: Try Amsoil signature series bro. Good shit.
 

marsha1l_v6

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Very little brands out there is more expensive than Liqui Moly :biggrin: Try Amsoil signature series bro. Good shit.
will try after to OCI cycle, next cycle will give me free OCI for the following cycle.. :love:

they sell it in quart..may need 5 quart..if each cost rm8x (refering to signature series @ lazada before discount) ..cost well over than current EO..hahaha pokai pokai.. :bawling:
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Just go buy cheap synthetic better, if want cheap and use for proton car I usually buy from this facebook page " v fier oil" just google. They are based on Batu caves and if not mistaken I bought semi for about rm120 including oil filter.
Why would you go all the way there to buy semi oil for RM120 with oil filter? P1/P2 oil filters are around RM15.. means the oil is RM105? Semi... depending on the quality, can run 5k km to 10k km.

M1 @ RM160 for 4L, + 1x Filter for RM15, can go 15k km EASY.

Assuming 30k km mileage, you would have changed your semi 3 times. Or with M1, changed twice. Total cost over 30k km =

Mobil 1 4L x 2 = RM320, 2x filter = RM30, total RM350
Your RM120 package x 3 = RM360

Mobil 1 is definitely good... your v fier oil.. i dunno. Why bother when M1 works out to be cheaper?

Pennzoil belongs to Shell, probably base oil is shell, then shell oil also not good....lol

Mine is 5K or 6 months OCI...
You can't say Shell Oil not good. While it is still Group III based stocks which is not 100% synthetic. Shell uses their proprietary XHVI process. Can read the technical details here:

https://books.google.com.my/books?i...UVB6QQ6AEIUDAG#v=onepage&q=shell xhvi&f=false

Personally I rank Shell Helix Ultra above the normal Group III synthetics, but below 100% Group IV PAO or 100% Group V esters. Would I use it? Yup, sure did.

http://www.bmwblog.com/2014/11/10/bmw-replaces-castrol-shell-recommended-oil-supplier/

I personally think the Castrol european synthetics are way above shell, but sadly, manufacturers like BMW ditched Castrol for Shell's cheaper EOs. Guess BMW is gonna make more money from the customers. Sell the Shell Oils for the same price as Castrol, but in actual fact it is using a cheaper base stock.

I'd try Amsoil over Liqui Moly for that kind of price.
Amsoil oils are GOOD.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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Why would you go all the way there to buy semi oil for RM120 with oil filter? P1/P2 oil filters are around RM15.. means the oil is RM105? Semi... depending on the quality, can run 5k km to 10k km.

M1 @ RM160 for 4L, + 1x Filter for RM15, can go 15k km EASY.

Assuming 30k km mileage, you would have changed your semi 3 times. Or with M1, changed twice. Total cost over 30k km =

Mobil 1 4L x 2 = RM320, 2x filter = RM30, total RM350
Your RM120 package x 3 = RM360

Mobil 1 is definitely good... your v fier oil.. i dunno. Why bother when M1 works out to be cheaper?
...


Amsoil oils are GOOD.
Yup agree with the above, using good FS oil actually can be cheaper than using semi. If semi oil, should get below rm90 or at least under rm100 then ok.

Amsoil not widely available though.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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I personally think the Castrol european synthetics are way above shell, but sadly, manufacturers like BMW ditched Castrol for Shell's cheaper EOs. Guess BMW is gonna make more money from the customers. Sell the Shell Oils for the same price as Castrol, but in actual fact it is using a cheaper base stock.
Do you think Castrol will be using BP base oil since they are under BP....:smokin:
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Do you think Castrol will be using BP base oil since they are under BP....:smokin:
Don't know, never bothered. But doesn't really matter because other than Shell, all other oil blenders hydrocrack their Group III base stocks and call it "synthetic".
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Don't know, never bothered. But doesn't really matter because other than Shell, all other oil blenders hydrocrack their Group III base stocks and call it "synthetic".
Yup, all the major oil company does that.......lol
 

marsha1l_v6

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Yup agree with the above, using good FS oil actually can be cheaper than using semi. If semi oil, should get below rm90 or at least under rm100 then ok.

Amsoil not widely available though.
looks like amsoil >> Lmoly :hmmmm:

lazada only got 1 seller...selling only 1 amsoil..do you know where can i get it in klang valley?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
 

s.marz

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?
0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/

The turbochargers and its related ancillary components are maintenance-free and since Honda has adopted the highest SN grade lubricant (formulated by Idemitsu, 0W-20 for fully synthetic oil) for all its engines, the Civic does not need a different lubricant.
0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.
 

marsha1l_v6

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?
Back then from Mayalab, but I think they are no longer the distributor.

EO should turn black after use, that's the detergents and additives working. I determine it from the sound from the engine. I'm quite attuned to the sound of my engine. So I make a mental note when oil is fresh, and listen to it from time to time.

Considering M1 shows that it easily does 10k miles (16k km) on other people's UOA, so I just went for it. Actually it sounds like it can still go, but I didn't bother since no I don't do UOA, and 15k miles is almost a year. I strongly believe changing EO every year, regardless of the mileage.

And from the time where my engine was cracked open, everything inside is clean. No varnish whatsoever.

Oh forgot, I also used the local UMW Pennzoil synthetic platinum, usually 8k km.
 

s.marz

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0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/



0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.
That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.
 

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That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.
Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
I doubt it makes much difference in Cameron with 16 deg C on cold raining morning. Overseas winters are those below zero winters.....:driver:
 

ixeo

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Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
handsome, modern cars don't work that way already laaaaaa. your engine already 27 years old. give it 0w probably it'll leak all over.
 

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handsome, modern cars don't work that way already laaaaaa. your engine already 27 years old. give it 0w probably it'll leak all over.
20 la woi. Where got 27. And it's rebuilt running 5W50. 0 won't have issues
 

s.marz

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Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
I doubt it makes much difference in Cameron with 16 deg C on cold raining morning. Overseas winters are those below zero winters.....:driver:
Amazingly when I started my friend's EG6 when it was -15 out, it was struggling to start and once it started it was pretty rough (till everything was warmed up). But when I started a waaay newer car (C350) in the same temperature, it started up so easily on the first try. Technology has come a looong way.
 

ixeo

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20 la woi. Where got 27. And it's rebuilt running 5W50. 0 won't have issues
Don’t butthurt la, the base engine family was introduced in 1990 ma. Rebuild already new seals of course won’t leak lo. I’d try 0w40 Mobil 1 in a freshly build engine. 50w really damn old school these days.
 

ixeo

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20 la woi. Where got 27. And it's rebuilt running 5W50. 0 won't have issues
Wait. RUNNING? Means the car is out and moving la. So bila meetup?
 

alcyon

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Amazingly when I started my friend's EG6 when it was -15 out, it was struggling to start and once it started it was pretty rough (till everything was warmed up). But when I started a waaay newer car (C350) in the same temperature, it started up so easily on the first try. Technology has come a looong way.
Could be oil used.
 

alcyon

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Don’t butthurt la, the base engine family was introduced in 1990 ma. Rebuild already new seals of course won’t leak lo. I’d try 0w40 Mobil 1 in a freshly build engine. 50w really damn old school these days.
Yes true, my rebuilt 4G13 with M1 0W-40 or SHU 5W-40 does not leak.
 

loose_end

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loose_end

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So many funny brands this days even at Lazada. RM60 for fully syn. Are there any regulatory body which regulate these ?