[DIY] Steering Wheel Balancer

drexchan

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drexchan

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To add more weight on the STOCK steering wheel so that it vibrates less and give a more solid feel on the road condition feedback.

You need at least 500g of weight. Just anything that you can figure out. I use a few pieces of used brake pads.

photos: http://drexchan.fotopic.net/c790881.html

edited: "more weight" =/= heavier steering turning. It simply means, to add some "ballast inside the wheel".
 
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jigc

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jigc

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good!

but my steering is old type, dun know can put in a 500g weight or not.

u replaced the airbag space with weight :tongue:
 

c-ground

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c-ground

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general said:
bro, why do we ned this balancer. i thought if the steering is shaky, it's bcos the engine mounting already kong...:biggrin:
Yes, the steering vibrates because of many reasons and one of it is hardened engine mounting.

You may change your engine mounting and it might come back 2 years later. So, IMHO, adding ballast in the steering wheel increase the static weight of the wheel, thus it vidrates less, no matter what condition the engine mounting is.

Mounting kong, still helps. Mounting working perfectly, still helps.

It's not a curing measurement, but an enhancement.
 
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drexchan

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drexchan

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1. this DIY did not aim to solve any problem. It enhances the steering feel. That's all.

2. If the steering vibrates badly, then it's due to the engine mounting, etc etc etc that you have already mentioned. You can change the mounting. But the problem cannot be permanently cure since the mounting will one day "went holland", then you need to change it again.

3. The ballast inside the steering, which i have done, helps in improving the steering feel especially when you are going over some speed breakers (yellow lines), rubber spacers (such as those on an over head bridge), and broken tarmac..

4. Now, think wisely, this is a cheap DIY, which does not posses any danger, does not make make the steering heavier, permanently enhance the steering feel... why not give it a try? Unless you have an airbag..

Again... ADDING A BALLAST AT THE CENTER OF THE STEERING WHEEL WILL NOT MAKE THE STEERING WHEEL HEAVIER TO TURN AND IT HAS NEVER BEEN THE OBJECTIVE OF THIS DIY.
 
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hoxy

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hoxy

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I just did the DIY wheel balancer. It took me hours to go to shop buy the required things and de-assemble and then re-assembling it again. Checked hone still functioning and test drive the car already. So the effect of this wheel balancer is it can return to its normal position faster, right? can really feel the momentum. Others will be if drive faster or over some obstacle on the road, it will eliminate some shock/momentum, correct? but i still dont have the opportunity to drive fast to feel the effect. Anyways, thnx for your guidance in the web. Looking forward for next DIY. BTW, where do you buy those superlon? how much? I cant find it at one hardware shop so instead i bought a regular span which is the blue one. What is the benefit of superlon? Thnx drex
 

ae101rulez

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ae101rulez

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erm...
not promoting anything but you can buy superlon from stanley aka ninja_ija....haha..try searching for soundproof mat...kinda good benefit if you wanna soundproof your car cz it really helps especially it your car is above 10 years haha...
 

proton63t

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proton63t

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Simply get a "HEAVY" steering thats fits your car from the chop shop seems the easiest way...........
 

proton63t

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proton63t

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i dont know about u, i will plop in anything that looks good, color can match interior of the dashboard.
 

Ride&Handling

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Ride&Handling

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suggest a suitable model for .. er.. Wira, for example.
well talks abt steering, quite my bread and butter at work so lemme hand you couple of opinions before you spend your cents on those shiny steer wheels:

1. If your target is to eliminate those kind of vibrating/shimmy feel at on centre of steering while you're doing speed, that means you need to check these things on your car:
a. irregular tyre thread
b. wheel imbalance
c. FR spring too soft
d. incorrect and unequal static kerb camber
e. uneven or low tire pressure

if everything is intact and acceptable, those vibration might came from loose linkages, loose ball joints and loose steering gears which definitely not DIY things.

2. If so your target is just to add solid feel to the steering, which i guess should be laid as weighted feel at on-centre and a continuous friction feel throughout turning the wheel. it is just impossible to put solid feel on steering, what you could do is to put rubberiness into it. there are 2 ways of doing that which most importantly DIY stuff:

a. Adjust your FR total toe to around -10mm to -15mm. A negative total toe will statically direct your tyres facing outside forward, which is common practice for production cars (but this can easily 'lari' due to excessive turning until 'clok2' sound and excessive bump steer). -ve toe will create lateral pre-load resistance on the tyre patch. One, this will help better your steering on centering and returnability which it will eliminate that elastic feel of the steering when you flip the steering and let it return by itself. Two, upon cornering, the resistance from the outside tyre will give you more lateral feedback which you as the driver (on your palm) will feel more weighted, friction feel and all in all rubbery feel.

OK here comes the DIY stuff. This can be done by manually adjusting your tie rod end. on typical car which the tie rod lays at the rear of the wheel hub track, you will need to reduce the length of the steering rack. But if the tie rod is at the front end, you will need to do it otherwise by increasing the rack length.
Typically, you will require a size 17 spanar to loosen the tie rod and size 12 to adjust the length.
Its worth mentioning that you need to becareful with the amount of length you adjust because if you excessively negative the toe, you vehicle response will be unlinear to your steering turn due to excessive resistance created by the tyre. and once your toe to excessive, you will require realignment on the machine.

b. you could add damping sheets at the steering locking knob, add damping sheets at the locking key between your steering column and steering wheel assembly. basically what you will try to do is to prevent the vibration from your tyres to reach your steering wheel. adding weight at the wheels theoritically wont eliminate anything but will add unnecessary weight to pinion, column universal joints and will add more work to the steering gears.


ps: Hopefully my first post here will help and please lemme know the outcome.
Happy DIY-ing..:biggrin:
 

Ride&Handling

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Ride&Handling

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Feb 10, 2008
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well talks abt steering, quite my bread and butter at work so lemme hand you couple of opinions before you spend your cents on those shiny steer wheels:

1. If your target is to eliminate those kind of vibrating/shimmy feel at on centre of steering while you're doing speed, that means you need to check these things on your car:
a. irregular tyre thread
b. wheel imbalance
c. FR spring too soft
d. incorrect and unequal static kerb camber
e. uneven or low tire pressure

if everything is intact and acceptable, those vibration might came from loose linkages, loose ball joints and loose steering gears which definitely not DIY things.

2. If so your target is just to add solid feel to the steering, which i guess should be laid as weighted feel at on-centre and a continuous friction feel throughout turning the wheel. it is just impossible to put solid feel on steering, what you could do is to put rubberiness into it. there are 2 ways of doing that which most importantly DIY stuff:

a. Adjust your FR total toe to around -10mm to -15mm. A negative total toe will statically direct your tyres facing outside forward, which is common practice for production cars (but this can easily 'lari' due to excessive turning until 'clok2' sound and excessive bump steer). -ve toe will create lateral pre-load resistance on the tyre patch. One, this will help better your steering on centering and returnability which it will eliminate that elastic feel of the steering when you flip the steering and let it return by itself. Two, upon cornering, the resistance from the outside tyre will give you more lateral feedback which you as the driver (on your palm) will feel more weighted, friction feel and all in all rubbery feel.

OK here comes the DIY stuff. This can be done by manually adjusting your tie rod end. on typical car which the tie rod lays at the rear of the wheel hub track, you will need to reduce the length of the steering rack. But if the tie rod is at the front end, you will need to do it otherwise by increasing the rack length.
Typically, you will require a size 17 spanar to loosen the tie rod and size 12 to adjust the length.
Its worth mentioning that you need to becareful with the amount of length you adjust because if you excessively negative the toe, you vehicle response will be unlinear to your steering turn due to excessive resistance created by the tyre. and once your toe to excessive, you will require realignment on the machine.

b. you could add damping sheets at the steering locking knob, add damping sheets at the locking key between your steering column and steering wheel assembly. basically what you will try to do is to prevent the vibration from your tyres to reach your steering wheel. adding weight at the wheels theoritically wont eliminate anything but will add unnecessary weight to pinion, column universal joints and will add more work to the steering gears.


ps: Hopefully my first post here will help and please lemme know the outcome.
Happy DIY-ing..:biggrin:

Im adding one ammendment, the correct total toe for FR wheels are actually around -0.7mm to -1.2mm at Mid Laden weight setting.
Sorry for the confusion. Happy motoring