DIY Myvi: Servicing Master Brake Pump

DarkAccoon

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DarkAccoon

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A break from the usual detailing, this is one of my DIY aka "kiamsap wanna save money and not give mechanic money" journey.

So I was in Melaka with my wife driving her Myvi around when suddenly she felt that the brakes were not biting. It has this sinking feel to it. I tested it and thought it was the brakes overheated. Looked around and found no leaking. So I left the car for a night and tested it in the morning, same sinking feeling with minimal braking power. Something is wrong and requires further investigation.

So I drove the Myvi from Melaka to Selangor with minimal braking power (dangerous but in a controlled situation.) I drove at least 10 cars away from the cars in front where I know i have enough time even for a super last minute emergency stop. So all is well.

Further research and I found what could be the possible cause. A leaking master brake pump. So even more extensive research was done and found the below website:

me2kimi.blogspot.com: MYVI Brake master pump repair kit replacement

I believe the author of this blog is also a member of the ZTH forum where I normally post my work. So I would like to take this opportunity to thank me2kimi for the guidance on his blog which proofs useful. Not forgetting Izso on the brake bleeding part.

So, this is the master brake pump... no leaking on the outside. A bit dusty


Like me2kimi, i removed the power steering reservoir for easier access.

Removed the wheels to prepare to drain the brake fluid.


This is the nipple to bleed the brake fluids. It is actually covered with a rubber boot but I removed it to complete this job


Drained enough fluid to make sure the master brake pump is empty or at least mostly empty. Yeah its kinda dirty cause the brake fluids have not been changed for 5 years/66k km


One side view of the master brake pump


Another view of the master brake pump.


This is the connecting rod to your brake servo..... make sure not to break the gasket... else have to buy new gasket.


After removing the first part which was kinda easy. Use a c-clip plier. Can be purchased for RM 9. Some call it the electronic plier.


Removing the 2nd part is a bit more tricky. Use a flat screw driver and compress the spring inside the master brake pump and turn it upside down so the pin locking it falls out.


After removing, you will see two holes instead of one.


All the parts out. You can see that I arranged the brake service kit next to the old one in the same order so that I do not mess up.


Installation of the servicing kit is exactly opposite of removing it. Just back track and you should find this an easy job.


Installed the reservior again.... making sure there is no leakage and it is sealed nicely.


Was installing it back when disaster happen at the last screw...... the thread is....... gone.... thanks to stupid me and my thick muscle head.... it was tight and i continue screwing it in till the thread is broken....


Have to wait till the following day to sent it to the machine shop and have it re-threaded. This is after re-threading.


Yeah, the master brake pump is a bit hard to reach so I was literally climbing unto the car.....


I was getting pissed cause the nut still refuse to enter..... it was only after almost an hour before it got it in properly.... btw, the post is just for fun..... proof that one can have fun while working on something.


And I install rims with hands and legs.....


Heck... I can even operate my 3 tonne jack with my legs....this is DOWN position


And this is my spreading my legs position..... UP position lar.


After bleeding the brakes..... this is how horrible it looks... kinda dirty fluid.


Looks like dark ribenna.... juice.


Final photos of the broken parts.... the cause was the rubber seals around the pin that probably have shrunk thus leaking pressure.


The not so conventional tools used..... The saw off nail is used to push the pin locking the reservoir and the master brake pump body. The cable tie was used to locate a nut that has fallen into the car's lower arm.


This is the kit used... RM65 at your friendly neighbourhood spare part shop.


End of the Master Brake Pump servicing.... i decided to do a bit of cleaning.
Carpet that has been stepped on for 5 years.... sure got dirt that is hard to remove.


Closer look on the dirt and you see that it is all around the rubber weaves.


Cleaning was done with powder soap used for clothes washing.


Put more washing powder on the severely affected portion


Shoot it with a high pressure cleaner on circular mode and you get the below results... not perfect but at least restored bout 80% of the color.... something I could not do with a brush.


Not bad but took me awhile to set up the high pressure cleaner and all.....


While the rims were out during the brake fluid bleeding.... I might as well wash the rims for fun.....


Looks simple enough............


After a round of Osren Bubble and Wash.....


AHHHH, some all too familiar sights .........


Shot it with TarX.... lemon scented which actually smells pretty delicious...


Closer look at how tar is being dissolved...


After letting it sit for bout 30 seconds..... gave it a wipe with a microfiber.... obviously i use those that I am gonna throw away soon..... no way am I gonna use a new micro fiber here.


Holy mackerel.... its gone.... but what about the rest.........


Spray the rims with IronX now...... letting it soak...


No matter how long, I still do not like this smell.......


Agitate with a brush..... hmm... plenty of purplish thingy..


Agitate somemore for more thicker purplish thingy....


Okay, I am getting bored of agitating it so after this i rinse it with lots of water.


Not perfect but it is still better than how it looks like when first started.


Took out secret weapon..... wipe and you can see the amount of dirt lifted...


I only cleaned the area just in front of the tube..... got lazy at this point of time and it was going to rain.


Not perfect but a far cry from when it first started.


Notes:
- Myvi uses DOT 4 brake fluid but DOT 3 works as well if you flushed the entire system to ensure there is no mixture.
- When bleeding the brakes, make sure you start from the one furthers away from the pump to ensure the bleeding is done properly...... i had to bleed twice cause I did not follow this rule.
- Change your brake fluid routinely if you do not want it to turn as black as this Myvi's brake fluids.

Any questions, please feel free to let me know. Thanks.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Once a detailer always a detailer. :biggrin:

Furthest away from the pump! Very good point! I don't think I put that into my DIY guide. Thanks for highlighting that!

I don't have that c-clip plier. I think my servo needs servicing too. Do for me? :biggrin: Or loan me that plier! I don't think you'll be using it for a loooooooooong time to come!
 

DarkAccoon

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DarkAccoon

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Once a detailer always a detailer. :biggrin:

Furthest away from the pump! Very good point! I don't think I put that into my DIY guide. Thanks for highlighting that!

I don't have that c-clip plier. I think my servo needs servicing too. Do for me? :biggrin: Or loan me that plier! I don't think you'll be using it for a loooooooooong time to come!
I did not know as well about the bleed starting from the furthest point until this DIY. I main taruh and bleed only then the brakes remained spongy. So did more reading and bleeded it properly.... wahhh lahhh problem gone.

Just go Jalan Pasar to buy the C-Clip plier la, its bout a few ringgit and can be used for a lot of things leh.

Erm... this one is servicing the master brake pump, not the servi arr... If need to service the servo..... lots of things to take out wor.... i think lar.
 

eohl79

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Don't know how true, quite a number of people told me not to service the master pump with those master pump service kit from spares shop. Most advised me to get the whole assembly replaced with a new unit... $$$. Is it something to do with the quality of the seals, etc? Can I just get those better uprated seals from those specialty seal shops?

In-law's K-car master pump was serviced with such a kit two years ago. Recently it leaked quite badly all out of a sudden - instrument panel brake lights were on (low brake fluid), spongy and loss of braking power... So replaced the whole master pump unit instead.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Don't know how true, quite a number of people told me not to service the master pump with those master pump service kit from spares shop. Most advised me to get the whole assembly replaced with a new unit... $$$. Is it something to do with the quality of the seals, etc? Can I just get those better uprated seals from those specialty seal shops?

In-law's K-car master pump was serviced with such a kit two years ago. Recently it leaked quite badly all out of a sudden - instrument panel brake lights were on (low brake fluid), spongy and loss of braking power... So replaced the whole master pump unit instead.
I don't know about the quality but my regular spareparts shop fella told me it's economically cheaper to buy new since it's not expensive to begin with.

But gotta admit DIY sure is cooler! Street cred! Hehe
 

DarkAccoon

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DarkAccoon

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I did not do a research on how much the master brake pump would cost. Nor was I able to do a durability check as most people in Malaysia opt for either a new replacement or chop shop replacement. Perhaps.... me2kimi whom has done this exact same DIY a year ago can shed some light on the durability. His myvi would have ran a year since his replacement.

As with your in-laws, a lot can happen within 2 years. A lot of question comes to my mind that could possibly cause the failure besides a lower grade seals.
- how often was the brake fluid changed
- was the failure sudden or gradually
- was the leaking part detected and was it part of the service kit

In this DIY, what I understand is that the service kit only provide the seals on the inside. There was no outside seals. So if the kit were to fail, the brake fluid will still remain inside the cycle.... unless its the outside seals failing which is not included in this kit.

Service Kit = RM65
New master brake pump for myvi = RM tak tau
Chop shop master brake pump for myvi = RM 1XX?

Someone whom have changed to new master brake pump or from chop shop or recond can perhaps shed some light to us lost souls. keke
 

^pomen_GTR^

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^pomen_GTR^

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been driving with leaking masterpump for around 2years already... slow leak type....each year topup brake fluid once....(yesss it leaks because i saw some brake fluid rust traces line from the musterpump... :biggrin:


planning to swap with evo masterpump instead because plenty available and suitable for proton cars like mine :adore:
 

Izso

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Izso

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I did not do a research on how much the master brake pump would cost. Nor was I able to do a durability check as most people in Malaysia opt for either a new replacement or chop shop replacement. Perhaps.... me2kimi whom has done this exact same DIY a year ago can shed some light on the durability. His myvi would have ran a year since his replacement.

As with your in-laws, a lot can happen within 2 years. A lot of question comes to my mind that could possibly cause the failure besides a lower grade seals.
- how often was the brake fluid changed
- was the failure sudden or gradually
- was the leaking part detected and was it part of the service kit

In this DIY, what I understand is that the service kit only provide the seals on the inside. There was no outside seals. So if the kit were to fail, the brake fluid will still remain inside the cycle.... unless its the outside seals failing which is not included in this kit.

Service Kit = RM65
New master brake pump for myvi = RM tak tau
Chop shop master brake pump for myvi = RM 1XX?

Someone whom have changed to new master brake pump or from chop shop or recond can perhaps shed some light to us lost souls. keke
I was quoted RM120 for a new master pump for the Myvi. The reasoning is RM65 for the service kit then perhaps RM30 workmanship, might as well get the whole new pump.

Anyway Street cred!!!
 

punk

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punk

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The reason u have to bleed twice i think is because u didnt bleed the master brake pump when u install it.
 

Izso

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Izso

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Punk has a point.

Oh btw Darkacc : that brake oil is dangerously black. That's highly contaminated and it's recommended not to let it get that black before changing the oil. Once it's orangey brown you should flush and replace oil
 

DarkAccoon

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DarkAccoon

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Alamak, have to stay on topic d, if off topic kena delete. hehe sorry boss.

How to bleed the master brake pump?

I was not aware that needs to be done. But the 2nd bleeding was done on the front wheels only cause during the first bleeding, the rear wheels was the last to be done. So can consider as I started bleeding from the rear on the 2nd bleeding.

Yeah, dangerously black. Wife's car, she never maintain and never tell me cause previously her dad sends the car to mechanic to do servicing. Only recently i took over the servicing. This time I bleed and make sure all the fluid were flowing out clear red (Dot3)

Next up would be her power steering fluid that will be flushed and replace. Followed by gearbox.
 

Supra_Fanatics

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Supra_Fanatics

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Alamak, have to stay on topic d, if off topic kena delete. hehe sorry boss.

How to bleed the master brake pump?

I was not aware that needs to be done. But the 2nd bleeding was done on the front wheels only cause during the first bleeding, the rear wheels was the last to be done. So can consider as I started bleeding from the rear on the 2nd bleeding.

Yeah, dangerously black. Wife's car, she never maintain and never tell me cause previously her dad sends the car to mechanic to do servicing. Only recently i took over the servicing. This time I bleed and make sure all the fluid were flowing out clear red (Dot3)

Next up would be her power steering fluid that will be flushed and replace. Followed by gearbox.
Still on topic, since you are cleaning the rims which I don't see why it is consider off topic. :listen:
Except the one where u ask about DIT. :biggrin:

My rims are the same, some marks like yours really cant come out, so still finding ways of cleaning out those black spots. Some may have eaten into the rims like some said.

So, the whole patch of black mark on one of the rims, I think is like totally became part of the rims...merged :rofl:

But instead of just detailing, u can change the brake pump urself consider really good lo :listen:
 

punk

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punk

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Alamak, have to stay on topic d, if off topic kena delete. hehe sorry boss.

How to bleed the master brake pump?

I was not aware that needs to be done. But the 2nd bleeding was done on the front wheels only cause during the first bleeding, the rear wheels was the last to be done. So can consider as I started bleeding from the rear on the 2nd bleeding.

Yeah, dangerously black. Wife's car, she never maintain and never tell me cause previously her dad sends the car to mechanic to do servicing. Only recently i took over the servicing. This time I bleed and make sure all the fluid were flowing out clear red (Dot3)

Next up would be her power steering fluid that will be flushed and replace. Followed by gearbox.
Bleed like the picture below or u can search it from youtube for another method.
jus extra info.

for the bleeding sequence, i think it is related to the proportional valve.

*The attached service manual is from mitsubishi mirage.
 

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vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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I don't know about the quality but my regular spareparts shop fella told me it's economically cheaper to buy new since it's not expensive to begin with.

But gotta admit DIY sure is cooler! Street cred! Hehe
This is because the pump is a wear item. If the cylinder wall is worn changing with repair kit will last a short while only, therefore might as well change the whole pump.

---------- Post added at 08:58 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:53 AM ----------

The reason u have to bleed twice i think is because u didnt bleed the master brake pump when u install it.
Yup, if you have taken out to clean means system is empty then have to bleed the master pump first.
If just changing brake fluid then take old oil out from the reservoir add new oil and bleed from the 4 ends. At each bleeding end pump until new oil comes out, while keeping an eye on reservoir not to go empty. If can find a tube to fit to the bleeding nozzle and lead to a container, it can be cleaner....:biggrin:
 

DarkAccoon

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DarkAccoon

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This is because the pump is a wear item. If the cylinder wall is worn changing with repair kit will last a short while only, therefore might as well change the whole pump.

---------- Post added at 08:58 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:53 AM ----------



Yup, if you have taken out to clean means system is empty then have to bleed the master pump first.
If just changing brake fluid then take old oil out from the reservoir add new oil and bleed from the 4 ends. At each bleeding end pump until new oil comes out, while keeping an eye on reservoir not to go empty. If can find a tube to fit to the bleeding nozzle and lead to a container, it can be cleaner....:biggrin:
Fortunately I don't see or feel any wear or uneven surface on the inner cylinder. Been using it for two weeks, still ok.

Yeap, guess my other mistake was that I did not bleed to master pump which is possibly the cause for the spongy brakes after the first bleeding.

Instead of a tube (cause i could not find one readily available in my house), I used a newspaper and a bucket.

Slightly messy but still workable. But my spanner was soaked in brake fluid. Had to wash them after use.
 

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