DIY - 'Magnetrap' - Oil Filter Magnet

johnsonlam

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johnsonlam

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There are many many brands of Magnetic Thingy being sold out there, to trap debris from engine oil to prevent it to go into the engine by somehow magnetize them and keep them stuck into the oil filter. Sometimes I wonder how it trap debris from all aluminum engine blocks. Anyway, there might be tiny steel debris hanging in the engine oil...

Products like these...


The concept of it seems to be simple enough. We just need Magnets right? Not those weak Fridge Magnets. But those Industrial strength magnets. Here are some :

- Hard Disk Magnets (Scroll to the end of the post, to know how to get them free)
- Electric Motor Magnets
- Magic Healing Neodymium Magnet (from lelong.com.my) I don't know what they are.. but they are shiny, and I got mine, i got 14 of them, from China when I was there.... they are cute and cheap RM0.50 per pair.. so i bought some for fun... Never knew that they are selling them here for RM 70 per pair !! (Suppose to have healing power) hmm.. no wonder I am healing and strong.

Here you go..


For this example, I used a Proton Oil Filter which I borrowed from a mechanic friend near my house.


Here is the layout of how you can Maximize magnet power if you have lots of magnets.


Here is the layout if you have Flat magnets. Which is sufficient enough for most cars.


Upside down test!! Of course, when you drive around, it might be bouncy, you will need to fasten these round magnets.


For flat magnets, they are really strong. It can be firmly stuck at the bottom.

If you need to stick them, you can use EPOXY Glue or Industrial Strength double sided tape. No worries, magnets are cheap and free.. if you loose them, just go to LowYatt rubbish bin and dig out some spoiled HDD.


Happy DIYing !
 

Veloc

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Veloc

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Seems legit! Good one I shall try it!
 

TitanRev

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TitanRev

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I'm using Hard Disk magnet....they stick like a bitch...
 

cvkit17

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cvkit17

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Not all magnets can be used at high temperature condition. The magnetic field will degrade with increasing temp.
 

ColdPlay

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ColdPlay

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I'm using Hard Disk magnet....they stick like a bitch...
Me too but it collect some steel pieces like small washer and even paper clip along the way.
My oil filter turn DBKL...lol.
I stick one of the 3.5" hdd magnet to oil drain nut also and during service, there are tiny steel dust stick on the nut's tip(old car already). As good as having a magnetic oil drain nut.(during DIY service, first rub the magnet to the nut's tip and head until another small steel object can stick to the nut without magnet help, put the nut in place, tighten using torque wrench, stick the magnet to the head and bingo!)
 

PocketRocket

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I have hifi speaker magnets, size of my palm in a donut shape. I shall magnetize the filter too...will duck tape work?
 

goohtj

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goohtj

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I have hifi speaker magnets, size of my palm in a donut shape. I shall magnetize the filter too...will duck tape work?
no need tape. if magnet drop off. meaning the magnet is not strong enough for this application...
 

PocketRocket

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So its suppose to be strong enough to withstand bumps and vibration from the road? Ok, lemme scourge some boxes.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Me too but it collect some steel pieces like small washer and even paper clip along the way.
My oil filter turn DBKL...lol.
I stick one of the 3.5" hdd magnet to oil drain nut also and during service, there are tiny steel dust stick on the nut's tip(old car already). As good as having a magnetic oil drain nut.(during DIY service, first rub the magnet to the nut's tip and head until another small steel object can stick to the nut without magnet help, put the nut in place, tighten using torque wrench, stick the magnet to the head and bingo!)
Drain plug metal filing stick to it is good, then can clear them out, but necessary for the oil filter? Isn't the filter suppose to do the job?
 

TitanRev

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VR2, I stick the magnet under the oil filter because the oil enters from the center then back out from the side holes...
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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VR2, I stick the magnet under the oil filter because the oil enters from the center then back out from the side holes...
What I mean is the filter element will trap the dirt and metal filing.....:smokin:
Anyway, in the filter the oil flow also under pressure, not so easy to capture the filing using just a magnet?
 

TitanRev

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If the magnetic is strong then it will catch any metal that flows by. I have cut out used filter on my 206 before got some fine sand like stuff stuck at the oil filter wall where the magnet is attached. The magnets on HDD is different from normal magnet where the magnetism is very much stronger.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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If the magnetic is strong then it will catch any metal that flows by. I have cut out used filter on my 206 before got some fine sand like stuff stuck at the oil filter wall where the magnet is attached. The magnets on HDD is different from normal magnet where the magnetism is very much stronger.
Wah! like that means those still pass the filter element....:confused:
 

TitanRev

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Vr2, I cant be sure but if the fluid is under pressure sure the flow speed is high and you know oil filter is mainly made from paper element. If it's something sharp could cut through the filter element. I can't verify this but just my thought.
 

cvkit17

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cvkit17

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If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..
 

ColdPlay

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Drain plug metal filing stick to it is good, then can clear them out, but necessary for the oil filter? Isn't the filter suppose to do the job?
I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.

If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..
More aye and less nay :biggrin:.
Yes : As the material of eo will degrade and become less effective after certain usage / period, service on time will avoid the build up of metal impurities inside. Reason for 5k - 10k service interval depend on eo type. Being a lousy driver, I usually change eo about 0.5k earlier from the service interval.
Nay : Most of the damage to the engine part happened during cold start where the cylinder, piston and whatever moving inside are not properly lubricated yet. Reason why I stay away from buying a lady driven car as I have seen many start their car and rev away. Old people tend to rev their car '99' to reach the optimum temperature in fastest way...
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.
I think you mean oil filter?:confused::biggrin:

---------- Post added at 11:03 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

If we change the oil filter frequently and don't delay the service interval, I guess not much metal impurities will go though the filter. My 2 cents..
This one sure change with oil change....:driver:
 

Izso

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Actually, why on earth are there so much metal shards in your engines la? Mine was rebuilt so I have an excuse. You guys probably have fully run in engines and I don't see how you can get metal pieces floating around your oils.

Anyway, I put my magnets on my oil sump (inside). Everytime I'm in the mood I take out the sump tray and hey presto, the magnet is still there covered in metal filings. Now when I think about it, it's probably not a good idea to have a huge block of metal inside the engine hor? Especially if the magnetism loses its properties.

Oh shit. Ok I have something to do this weekend.
 

pwhyze

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pwhyze

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I put them on both location. No metal pieces on eo oil drain plug, more of a metal dust but inside the pry open air filter(God knows how hard is it to manually cut the air filter in half using steel cutter), there are mixture of tiny sand and metal dust.
I forget to mentioned, I have done it on gearbox too. Guess what, thick yellowish metal dust on transmission fluid drain plug. Must be my sister changing gear without fully engage the
clutch :banghead:.


More aye and less nay :biggrin:.
Yes : As the material of eo will degrade and become less effective after certain usage / period, service on time will avoid the build up of metal impurities inside. Reason for 5k - 10k service interval depend on eo type. Being a lousy driver, I usually change eo about 0.5k earlier from the service interval.
Nay : Most of the damage to the engine part happened during cold start where the cylinder, piston and whatever moving inside are not properly lubricated yet. Reason why I stay away from buying a lady driven car as I have seen many start their car and rev away. Old people tend to rev their car '99' to reach the optimum temperature in fastest way...
Hmmmm...to be frank, I've never warm up my engine in the morning. Just start engine and go.

Engines have optimum operating temperature range and the best and fastest way to reach that temperature is to drive them right away. This way, all the components reach optimum temp at the same rate. Idling too long to warm the engine up means the components are operating below optimum temperature longer so they'll exhibit more wear.

The key here is not to overstress the engine early in the operation, i.e to slowly build the rev as you go.
 

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I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Actually, why on earth are there so much metal shards in your engines la? Mine was rebuilt so I have an excuse. You guys probably have fully run in engines and I don't see how you can get metal pieces floating around your oils.

Anyway, I put my magnets on my oil sump (inside). Everytime I'm in the mood I take out the sump tray and hey presto, the magnet is still there covered in metal filings. Now when I think about it, it's probably not a good idea to have a huge block of metal inside the engine hor? Especially if the magnetism loses its properties.

Oh shit. Ok I have something to do this weekend.
How big is the magnet? If big, you are replacing the space meant for the engine oil....:driver:

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.
I start the engine, let the oil circulate for a while, reverse out then come out to lock the gate then drive slowly for 1st km or so....
 

stupidcar

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I have a habit of letting the engine idle for 3-5 mins before moving slowly and build up the revs... At cold start the idling for warming up will come down and thats when i start driving.
I always start engine and let it sit at least 3-5 minutes while I take stuffs to put in my car and also open the gates. NO air cond too. Hate it when my friends or family member simply touch my cars.
 

^pomen_GTR^

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^pomen_GTR^

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i normally turn ac after +-30seconds the engine started to give small load for faster engine warmp-up....


why +-30seconds? because it was roughly taking that time for the engine oil to fully lubricating all engine area and the oil pump was fully primed up for its job...