Civic EG - Exhaust & Mods Advice needed

TheSquee

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Jul 22, 2010
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Hey sifu sifu :wavey::wavey:

i need advice on exhaust setup and where to get it done..

currently running a b16a AUTO ( lame i know , no money change to manual YET )
standard mods : open pod , sparks , plug cables , etc..
planning to change my exhaust system - desire to see my revs go up faster - low bassy sound but sharp & loud when VTEC opens :driver::driver:

was thinking of changing 4-1 header , remove cat , 1 bullet and a muffler

right now when VTEC opens , the sound mostly is coming from the engine than the exhaust :banghead: - currently using basic setup with some cap ayam exhaust (s-flow)

i've heard from civic-eg forums that VTEC pull is a lot stronger with bigger exhaust PIPE diameter.. true ?


one more thing , im juggling between doing my exhaust or strengthening the chassis with UR..

-change anti roll bar to UR 19mm ARB
- front top tower bar
- rear top tower bar

changed suspension*

please advice , just started modding my Civic EG8..
 

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aalto

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*From a previous post of mine....

From my experience on my B16A Auto,

1) Stock Standard piping - good torque & response at low RPM (1000 - 3500), at mid range to vtec point (4800) its abit sluggish, from VTEC open (4800rpm) it pushes ok again to about 6500 but then its slows up to 7800

2) 4-2-1, no cat, 1 mid bottle, 5zigen Fireball exhaust - Low RPM torque & response very sluggish (1000 - 3500), at mid range to VTEC point it stars to pick up gradually with better response. From VTEC open (4800 - 7800) it starts to scream like woman having an orgasm , the sweet spot.. move though the VTEC range with ease till RPM cut.

3) 4-2-1, no cat, 1 mid bottle, stock muffler (EG6) - Low RPM torque better than setup (2) less than setup (1), at midrange to VTEC point (3000 - 4800) best response and torque compared to setup 1 & 2, at VTEC point (4800 - 6500) a little bit sluggish than setup (2) but better than setup (1), from 6500-7800 it starts to slump same as setup (1) but not as much.

Ranking best to worse
1000 - 3000 rpm - 1,3,2
3000 - 4800 rpm - 3,1,2
4800 - 6500 rpm - 2,3,1
6500 - 7800 rpm - 2,3,1

So in summary,
Setup (1) - Best for jiwang drivers (drive slowly/city driving) & very2 rarely engages VTEC (quite)
Setup (2) - Need to take a shit driver , likes to engage VTEC 24/7....good for track & rempits. ( very2 noisy)
Setup (3) - Good for all rounder driver, not too slow/not too fast and cruising just below VTEC on, uses VTEC ocasionally (quite)

For fuel consumption, it really depends on how u use your right foot....there no real big difference IMO

Personally I went with setup (3)
________________________________________________________________________________________________

One more thing, if your engine is stock & Auto.....4-1 extractor in highly NOT advisable

....On the reinforcing part....IMO front/rear upper bar is enough already....but if you really want to feel a difference change all the suspension bushings.
 
Last edited:

TheSquee

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Jul 22, 2010
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*From a previous post of mine....

From my experience on my B16A Auto,

1) Stock Standard piping - good torque & response at low RPM (1000 - 3500), at mid range to vtec point (4800) its abit sluggish, from VTEC open (4800rpm) it pushes ok again to about 6500 but then its slows up to 7800

2) 4-2-1, no cat, 1 mid bottle, 5zigen Fireball exhaust - Low RPM torque & response very sluggish (1000 - 3500), at mid range to VTEC point it stars to pick up gradually with better response. From VTEC open (4800 - 7800) it starts to scream like woman having an orgasm , the sweet spot.. move though the VTEC range with ease till RPM cut.

3) 4-2-1, no cat, 1 mid bottle, stock muffler (EG6) - Low RPM torque better than setup (2) less than setup (1), at midrange to VTEC point (3000 - 4800) best response and torque compared to setup 1 & 2, at VTEC point (4800 - 6500) a little bit sluggish than setup (2) but better than setup (1), from 6500-7800 it starts to slump same as setup (1) but not as much.

Ranking best to worse
1000 - 3000 rpm - 1,3,2
3000 - 4800 rpm - 3,1,2
4800 - 6500 rpm - 2,3,1
6500 - 7800 rpm - 2,3,1

So in summary,
Setup (1) - Best for jiwang drivers (drive slowly/city driving) & very2 rarely engages VTEC (quite)
Setup (2) - Need to take a shit driver , likes to engage VTEC 24/7....good for track & rempits. ( very2 noisy)
Setup (3) - Good for all rounder driver, not too slow/not too fast and cruising just below VTEC on, uses VTEC ocasionally (quite)

For fuel consumption, it really depends on how u use your right foot....there no real big difference IMO

Personally I went with setup (3)
________________________________________________________________________________________________

One more thing, if your engine is stock & Auto.....4-1 extractor in highly NOT advisable

....On the reinforcing part....IMO front/rear upper bar is enough already....but if you really want to feel a difference change all the suspension bushings.
One question bro , so Setup 2 & 3 are they using the standard exhaust pipe diameter or did you change it too ? If you did change what size isit ?

What do you think if setup 3 i was to get those imitation mugen twin loop..
:driver::driver:

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

Ooops missed out something , 4-2-1 that you used was standard or did you change it and isit worth changin it ?
 

aalto

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setup 2 & 3 both using 2.3" piping.
Using ori mugen twin loop would be better than stock muffler....but for imitation, it would probably depend on the quality of the imitation..

My 4-2 using aftermarket and downpipe (2-1) using type R....it is worth changing.
 

TheSquee

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Jul 22, 2010
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2-1 type R downpipe ? where you got that from man..
where do you go to do your exhaust ?
hmm is there any good japanese s-flow exhaust to recommend besides twinloop?

anyways 2.3" is the standard diameter right ? im a newbie don't really know much..
 

mADmAN

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imho....if u have intentions of changing to manual i strongly suggest saving all ur money and getting that done first before doing anything else....coz its the most expensive and all other small little mods will only slow the conversion down.
 

aalto

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2-1 type R downpipe ? where you got that from man..
where do you go to do your exhaust ?
hmm is there any good japanese s-flow exhaust to recommend besides twinloop?

anyways 2.3" is the standard diameter right ? im a newbie don't really know much..
2-1 type R down pipe can find at chopshop or any parts sellers, might be a little hard to find nowadays.

Mine not custom made, bought pieces and connected by flange, i just went to a nearby exhaust shop for installation. So never been to any specialist.

EG's dont usually use S-flow exhausts, for quite muffler go for stock EG6 or stock Type R (EK9,DC2,EP3...etc)...if you want sporty type, famous brands are 5 Zigen, Spoon, Vision, Apexi....etc...

If not mistaken, 2.3" is the stock diameter....

But I agree with what Madman said.....if you want to convert manual better do that first...
 

TheSquee

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But guys the thing is , conversion for manual i wont be able to have enough for it so soon , maybe 1 year from now.. Not working yet still schooling..

So you guys reckon i do which first from the first post ? :/

If i were to do exhaust i would remove cat put bullet and change muffler first headers will be later on
As for chassis i was thinking of buying madman's ARB but i heard people saying standard Subframe brace can't take the strength of the ARB..

Is this true?
 

mADmAN

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after some research on the internet... some say 13mm (stock EG6) and some say 19mm is max for ARB. but think about it, would Ultra Racing make 19mm if the subframe cant take it?

im not too sure....but to me, 19mm is the max u can go (as far as i know) without the need of a subframe brace.. any thicker and ull cause ur subframe to tear if u dont have the brace. my car was running the 19mm without brace for a few months before the subframe brace was installed... then i upgraded to the DC2-R 23mm. by then i already had the brace so not a problem.


for me...power is nothing without control. so handling related mods first....which is also wat i did to my EG.. havent even touched the engine yet
 

TheSquee

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Im actually planning to get the ARB from you pretty soon can reserve till end of next week ? :)

But the thing is shouldn't i decat my exhaust system , right now it feels very restrictive.. low rpm is pretty sluggish but after 5000rpm ~ very smooth..
 

mADmAN

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ok....ill reserve my ARB to u til 24th July....but if u cancel..pls make sure to tell me and not just keep quiet.

yeah...decat should yield better power delivery for ur car.
 

Kelvin Goh

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after some research on the internet... some say 13mm (stock EG6) and some say 19mm is max for ARB. but think about it, would Ultra Racing make 19mm if the subframe cant take it?

im not too sure....but to me, 19mm is the max u can go (as far as i know) without the need of a subframe brace.. any thicker and ull cause ur subframe to tear if u dont have the brace. my car was running the 19mm without brace for a few months before the subframe brace was installed... then i upgraded to the DC2-R 23mm. by then i already had the brace so not a problem.


for me...power is nothing without control. so handling related mods first....which is also wat i did to my EG.. havent even touched the engine yet
Bro,

How do we know if the subframe is tear off? What will happen? As I am using DC2-R 23mm ARB without ASR subframe brace but with Spoon rear tie bar only...
 

mADmAN

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how to know? u have to visually see it for urself...what will happen dunno...but its not something i wanna risk finding out.

heres some examples of subframe tear
Crack
WALAUWEEEEHHH!!!

my advice, get the ASR brace.. and get rid of the tie bar. coz the brace will also act as a tie bar...putting both will actually make the tie bar useless as its bolted onto the brace. (u can sell the tie bar and use the money for the brace. 2-in-1 function and looks sexier too)

the spoon tie bar does NOTHING to reinforce the subframe against tearing.

but according to THIS thread, its more prone to EKs than EGs..

Subfram tearout is exactly that- where the subframe (where your rear LCAs and sway bar mount to) is put under heavy stress from a large sway bar and tears. Its a common problem on EK civics because Honda placed the sway bar mounting holes outboard of the LCA mounts, and used very thin sheetmetal in that area. Its also a pretty damn expensive fix. It looks something like this...
 

TheSquee

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Madman where to get original ASR Brace , i see some selling for 300+ and some 700-800+..

How to tell the difference..
 

aalto

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TheSquee :
Before you go "pening" with reinforcement issue,
Do you have good suspension,bushings & tires?
If not....your reinforcement activities will be only minor improvements...
 

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