All type of sound from my car... help !
- Thread starter iameternal
- Start date
I can only think of the 1.8 campro stroker kit when he mentioned abt overhaul. That will be worth the time stripping down the engine.
1.8 is legal might as well swap engine, stroke if possible go 2.0L......hhahahhahhaha
Let experts explain
https://machv.com/pages/tip-11-crank-pulleys
Under drive pulley for a supercharged car I understand. Lightened pulley for NA is pointless for street driving. In-line 4 engines aren’t smooth, I believe the harmonic dampeners do something else manufacturers won’t include it.
This is the best advice. I got a good mechanic out in the woods in Sungai Buloh if you want.
But he can’t do wiring and electrical — basic only. He’s a mechanic.
Most mechanic don't do wiring, simple one then yes. Major wiring problem always sent to wire man......lol
Agreed, i am one of those guys who've changed back to stock after 2-3 months on lighten crank pulley, endless problem !
Guys,
allow me to ride on this thread as i am having this problem with my blm.
Recently i hear 'kluk2' sound on my blm. It happen during initial movement when load is transferred to the back. Its very faint that the radio needs to be switched off before the sound can be heard. Its like a metal to metal sound. A quick inspection reveal that the 2 bottom engine mounting is torn thus i replaced all for last sunday.
Car felt like new but the noise is still there and can hear more clearly as the new mounting seems to lower noise coming from the engine. Lower arm is new (less than 1 yr and its ori Proton), no significant free play on tie rod and absorber link to arb. I am starting to think its the caliper pin. How do i check the pin?
allow me to ride on this thread as i am having this problem with my blm.
Recently i hear 'kluk2' sound on my blm. It happen during initial movement when load is transferred to the back. Its very faint that the radio needs to be switched off before the sound can be heard. Its like a metal to metal sound. A quick inspection reveal that the 2 bottom engine mounting is torn thus i replaced all for last sunday.
Car felt like new but the noise is still there and can hear more clearly as the new mounting seems to lower noise coming from the engine. Lower arm is new (less than 1 yr and its ori Proton), no significant free play on tie rod and absorber link to arb. I am starting to think its the caliper pin. How do i check the pin?
Jack it up and hit the tires with base of your fist, it will give some noises if the caliper pins already worn out. But the noises from that is more like lite rattling sound. Your knocking noise can also come from worn antiroll bar bushings so the ARB might have up/down movement and touches some of other parts or lower arms. That was the case for my Swift.
I just jacked the vehicle and try to shake/knock/punch and nothing gives or produce sound. I removed the tire and try shaking the brake using hand and it moves a tiny bit. Can feel its metal to metal contact so i removed the caliper pin and cleaned them;
I cant feel any wear with my fingers. The pin comes with that flat surface and its not cause by wear and tear. There is some metal contact sign but no wear can be felt using finger. When i put back the caliper in the slot and try to shake it it moves in all direction for the bottom pin but the top pin only moves very slightly.
So are the pins worn out?
If yes should i go for original pin or aftermarket with silicone ring?
Forgot to mentioned, that pin was coated with grease when i remove them. There was free play when it was still coated with grease. The pic is taken after i cleaned them to show the surface better.
I havent lubricate it back as i dont have high temp grease with me.
Dude, if you didn't lube it back, it'll cause more noise. It's supposed to move in and out a bit for single piston calipers like yours.
Is that a Myvi caliper pin? The silicon one does help but even that silicon one is wear and tear. Faster lube it up, it's not healthy for metal to metal rubbing without grease
I havent put it back.
Thats the original pin since 2008.
i know its suppose to move in and out but it can move up and down left and right. Is the other movement instead of in and out are normal or should i replace?
Replace it if it's moving that much. But you need to test it with grease, not greaseless leh.. The problem with the silicon o-ring type is you grease need to do it nicely. Can't put too much because it'll compress the grease making the caliper hard to move and then braking failure
Just bought this replacement pin with silicon. Ori replacement only left 1pc.
Already install right side after smeared with bearing grease, play with the pin by pushing it in and out then smear again.
RM75 for a set. After dinner will install left side and hope no more sound. If still got then i am lost as already check the arb bush and lower arm are all in good shape. no loose bolt or freeplay.
Already install right side after smeared with bearing grease, play with the pin by pushing it in and out then smear again.
RM75 for a set. After dinner will install left side and hope no more sound. If still got then i am lost as already check the arb bush and lower arm are all in good shape. no loose bolt or freeplay.
Shit....noise still there despite the improve pedal feel.
When i drive just now i had the window down and notice the sound when i turn the steering at stationary..Its the damn steering rack bush.
When i drive just now i had the window down and notice the sound when i turn the steering at stationary..Its the damn steering rack bush.
The steering rack bush to be exact.
Its not worn out to the point the rack is moving freely. Its in a way still holding the rack firmly until a point it gives by making the rack moves suddenly in few short amd sharp movement.
kinda hard to replace esp the passenger side due to P1 bad design of having the aircond drain pipe above the nut of the bracket. Its rusted almost beyond recognition.
Is the BLM's rack bush similar to the one on the Preve? I hear FB group people frequently complaining about it
That one i dunno. The ori one i just bought only written BLM on the box. Will try to remove the rusted nut this weekend.
Last time with waja i encounter short lifespan of steering bush. A tire shop notice my loose bush while doing allignment and told me to put a short timing belt or aux belt cut to make it tighter and last longer. I did that and it works. I used abt 1 inch a piece at both side.
Thats new to me. Normally new lower arm with new bush are a bit harder to fit in esp the end with that square bush end thus it fits in a snug manner. BTW my bro mentioned that the correct way to install lower arm is to fully tighten all bolt/nut when the car is at its resting position. This is near impossible to do at home unless we have a hoist. Its done to ensure normal lifespan.
Was some years ago. While doing alignment, he noticed the bush was worn. He took a some rubber tubing and clamped it together with the bush. I left it like that for years.Kinda silly since those bushes dont cost much.
I read something like that before but have yet to see any mechanic do it. I think this is only something you can do if you have one of those lifts that raise the car with the tyres resting on it. Tyreman's alignment lift or the tunnel they dig in the ground
I thought the lower arm bush they use hydraulic to pump in? Steering rack is open clamp, so can fit in and clamp, before screw tight.....
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