Yup, must support bro issuzarknice! now i know who to contact to re-wrap mine
4G93 DOHC Problems
- Thread starter drummydrew
- Start date
drummydrew
Known Member
UPDATE on AC/Idling problem: as suggested by parakey and sanekit, i was at a DIY session with DDT as he guided me through the adjustment of TPS with multi meter. managed to get the reading right, screwed it down, did adjustments on the BISS screw (pretty much textbook style like links yous shared), started the car..
OK, good news is we finally made sure the stepper motor is working and TPS adjustment right - AC on, the RPM dropped and then was compensated, implying that signals are normal.
here comes the bad news, the RPM dropped to 600 then was re-compensated to only ~750 (NOT ENOUGH)
as we looked on, i'll first have to point out that my car is a VDO stock converted to MMC. ECU socket is MMC as opposed to VDO's 3 pin socket if not mistaken. based on Evo3 and '95 Mirage's ecu chart, my socket is MISSING 2 cables in 2 pins
PIN 37 - power steering pressure switch (yellow wire), non-existent from PS pump to socket
PIN 45 - AC compression relay (green&yellow wire), connected from AC fuse but not to socket aka patahilang
now, assuming these missing signals could be the factors why the ECU isn't processing, hence the slight void in RPM compensation during idling. opinions? i'll pry more at the mean time :stupido2:
OK, good news is we finally made sure the stepper motor is working and TPS adjustment right - AC on, the RPM dropped and then was compensated, implying that signals are normal.
here comes the bad news, the RPM dropped to 600 then was re-compensated to only ~750 (NOT ENOUGH)
as we looked on, i'll first have to point out that my car is a VDO stock converted to MMC. ECU socket is MMC as opposed to VDO's 3 pin socket if not mistaken. based on Evo3 and '95 Mirage's ecu chart, my socket is MISSING 2 cables in 2 pins
PIN 37 - power steering pressure switch (yellow wire), non-existent from PS pump to socket
PIN 45 - AC compression relay (green&yellow wire), connected from AC fuse but not to socket aka patahilang
now, assuming these missing signals could be the factors why the ECU isn't processing, hence the slight void in RPM compensation during idling. opinions? i'll pry more at the mean time :stupido2:
Last edited:
750 rpm should be ok. if you check online mitsu manuals, 750-800rpm idling. AC on, 900rpm idling.
Adjust ISC/stepper motor ? If you still not satisfy. I have bad time as you.
Since i in Pg, DDT Franky at KL lahhh. Cant meet him. Buy tps and isc from him too. Good quality.
Try this way, which my last resort. Bit tough but will make sure isc is at correct position.
Warm up ur engine then off.
Unplug new isc connector, plug the cable to old isc as a decoy for ECU.
Unscrew the new isc (2 screw). Take out the whole piece from TB. Dont drop the O-ring.
ISC have 3 screw, unscrew it. Use flat screwdriver, slowly pull it out. Got one spring inside too.
Set aside spring piece.
Now the nipple piece. Use finger to rotate magnetic rotor clockwise/anti-clockwise, u will see it move in/out. Measure it or count it.
Set it to middle. Fix 2 piece together put back into TB.
While connector still with old isc, start the engine. Adjust BISS screw. Set 800rpm. Stable idling, off engine.
Plug connector back to new isc. Start engine then drive, AC ON.
Scantool method also same, it will lock the ISC position, then only adjust BISS screw. Less hassle loh. :rolleyes:
Adjust ISC/stepper motor ? If you still not satisfy. I have bad time as you.
Since i in Pg, DDT Franky at KL lahhh. Cant meet him. Buy tps and isc from him too. Good quality.
Try this way, which my last resort. Bit tough but will make sure isc is at correct position.
Warm up ur engine then off.
Unplug new isc connector, plug the cable to old isc as a decoy for ECU.
Unscrew the new isc (2 screw). Take out the whole piece from TB. Dont drop the O-ring.
ISC have 3 screw, unscrew it. Use flat screwdriver, slowly pull it out. Got one spring inside too.
Set aside spring piece.
Now the nipple piece. Use finger to rotate magnetic rotor clockwise/anti-clockwise, u will see it move in/out. Measure it or count it.
Set it to middle. Fix 2 piece together put back into TB.
While connector still with old isc, start the engine. Adjust BISS screw. Set 800rpm. Stable idling, off engine.
Plug connector back to new isc. Start engine then drive, AC ON.
Scantool method also same, it will lock the ISC position, then only adjust BISS screw. Less hassle loh. :rolleyes:
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drummydrew
Known Member
Hello all, been too long since I last camped in here My Satria has finally got into a new set of problems which I can share here!
All started when I noticed puddles of oil where I parked. It wasn’t engine oil but gear oil, leakage was near the flywheel so had no choice but to drop the gearbox. As you can see..
supposed to be oil-free but it’s clearly wet
punctured housing, that’s where the leakage was from. Something must have broken!
One of the flywheel nuts were broken, couldn’t find the fragment. With this, it has damaged more parts..
All edges of the clutch cover
clutch springs have been hit
It all happened so quick that the gears showed no problems of noise and shifting except for the leakage. Car is sitting at my mechanic’s place now. Already bought new clutch set, pumps, drive shafts and some minor parts while we are at it.
With reconditioning the gearbox out of the question, I am left with the biggest problem now - a new used gearbox. My existing gearbox is a Wira 1.8 / Putra / GTI variant with code F5M222VRXE paired to a 4G93. Shopped around chop shops and most only have 1.6 normal variants which is a no go for me. Until now, came across a Mivec LSD unit with code F5M222XRWE and my mind is at the crossroads.
In the case of not being able to source a same 1.8 GB, should I:
1. Reconsider servicing / welding my broken one, slap it on while I continue the search.
OR
2. Get the 1.6 MIVEC one instead. If so, how big is the effect in the drive? I’ve read about the final drive and ratio difference between the 1.8 and MIVEC but I still need advices. The car is mostly driven on highway KL-Ipoh.
Helpppp
All started when I noticed puddles of oil where I parked. It wasn’t engine oil but gear oil, leakage was near the flywheel so had no choice but to drop the gearbox. As you can see..
supposed to be oil-free but it’s clearly wet
punctured housing, that’s where the leakage was from. Something must have broken!
One of the flywheel nuts were broken, couldn’t find the fragment. With this, it has damaged more parts..
All edges of the clutch cover
clutch springs have been hit
It all happened so quick that the gears showed no problems of noise and shifting except for the leakage. Car is sitting at my mechanic’s place now. Already bought new clutch set, pumps, drive shafts and some minor parts while we are at it.
With reconditioning the gearbox out of the question, I am left with the biggest problem now - a new used gearbox. My existing gearbox is a Wira 1.8 / Putra / GTI variant with code F5M222VRXE paired to a 4G93. Shopped around chop shops and most only have 1.6 normal variants which is a no go for me. Until now, came across a Mivec LSD unit with code F5M222XRWE and my mind is at the crossroads.
In the case of not being able to source a same 1.8 GB, should I:
1. Reconsider servicing / welding my broken one, slap it on while I continue the search.
OR
2. Get the 1.6 MIVEC one instead. If so, how big is the effect in the drive? I’ve read about the final drive and ratio difference between the 1.8 and MIVEC but I still need advices. The car is mostly driven on highway KL-Ipoh.
Helpppp
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ouch bro...
and the mivec gb ratios are not the same as the 1.8 one but pretty close. But I doubt it'll affect your driving too much. Since it's available now - why not just use it? IIRC the Mivec ratios are pretty long too so for highway driving ok la.
UPDATE - so I just found out after all these years that I've been lied to and there's no 1.8L Mivec. Hahaha.. means those 1.8 Mivecs I saw have been using the 4G93 gb all along.
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Hi Bro, one of the groups im in on FB a guy just posted a satria gti gearbox for sale. If you are still hunting you probably can contact him
Attachments
i have not driven a car with the mivec box so i have no idea what the ratios are like. I have however driven a car with a short gearbox and a final drive of 4.7. At highway speeds of about 110km/h its at 35000rpm. Car always feels like its ready to go which was nice as it felt perky, but it was tiring to drive outstation on long highways
drummydrew
Known Member
I was considering hard cos I know that Mivec GB would be hard to come around again, little did I know that the 1.8 is harder to find! Maybe I’m also sceptical about change
Ah yes bro, there’s no 1.8 Mivec. From what I know the 4G93-Mivec hybrids are usually mated to 1.8 or 1.6 Mivec GBs.
I never had a go in the Mivec ones, do you own one bro? How does it feel for long distance?
Thanks for the help out bro! I’ll reach out to him, thanks a lot! Is it safe to say that Mivec 1.6 one gives me better acceleration, 1.8 one better top speed?
drummydrew
Known Member
Hello sifus after a long long time! I still own the Satria 4G93 DOHC and I need help 
Engine ceased at 280K, block cracked open a hole
Now looking for halfcut or engine for sale! Ipoh area, hit me up please!
Engine ceased at 280K, block cracked open a hole
Now looking for halfcut or engine for sale! Ipoh area, hit me up please!
can try big chop shop nearby Kamunting toll.Hello sifus after a long long time! I still own the Satria 4G93 DOHC and I need help
Engine ceased at 280K, block cracked open a hole
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