j_l200s

let me refer to the customs duty/tax book first. It'll very much depend on seller's declaration on the HS code as well as the delivery term. Don't forget the invoice value declared too. if they can declare like USD 400 including shipping, then u'll save a lot. and again, our customs are not dumb too. ^^

Let me find out with the US sellers first. Will let u know once i got a clearer answer regarding the % of duty n tax.

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D7zul

hahaha ..

how do u know i'm gonna lick the cam 1st?

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j_l200s

Just referred to the Tariff Code book. Refer to HS code 8483.10.0000 it stated there Import Tax 5% and Sales Tax 10% for moving shafts (cam/crank). These taxes will be taxed according to your total invoice value which will include sales amount, freight charges and insurance of 1% of your sales amount. Let's say i buy something which the value is RM1000 after conversion from USD. Freight/shipping will be RM100 and the insurance value (which is compulsory imposed by our local customs) is RM10. So, your total invoice value would be RM1110.

Now come the taxing part. Import tax will come first hence RM1110 + 5% + 10% = RM1282.05
So your total tax is RM282.05

Now comes the cams. I'll take the max amount of USD750 including shipping. I'll take easier rate for conversion of 3. that will be RM2250.
Pls our customs insurance of 1% = RM2272.50
RM2272.50 + 5% + 10% = RM2624.75

So the amount of the taxes would be around RM374.75

In short, lower down the sales amount ;-)

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D7zul

but seriously i'd like to buy it after i inspect it..

my company deals with imports things from all over the world..

and there're a lot of reject things coming to my office

so, i'd rather buy it here

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Mr.Chaser

Yeah, cam strictly for whore only!!!

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KHWONG

Build COROllA fOR StrEEt Performance!!!!!!!!

this topic is so interesting which i doing the same thing to my car .

for my cents, its very depend on the individual requirement. just to share my experience. there is no limit of power vs money you can/effort to spend. is only satisfication of the modification.

for me, completed the stage 2 mod is much enuf for me as the street car performance.

i am happy with my car 2 stage completed for daily drive and sales works. sometime will felt too tired after whole day driving. but sometime will feel very excited while driving ....

someone might think we r crazy with high cam, full lock lsd, close ratio, noisy straight flow exhaust for daily sales works. but all this very depend to individual.

if stand alone , strengthen chassis, 304 cam that is little bit too much for me and i think is 3rd stage mod with need to drop in roll cage , take off the seat n carpet and full con management. for trackies

cost wise is speechless. i will cry when i count back 5 year before when i just starting!!.. dont count is better.

happy modding...

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3zz

ke70 chassis lighter,more space for exhaust manifold,driftable= more fun!
ae chasis for go pasar bah.hehehe

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me2kimi

talking about cost, I've kept all the receipt whatever I have bought/done to my car but I don't dare to calculate it. hehehe

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D7zul

there's a way to reduce ur cost..

not that much.. but at least can cover a bit..

take all ur original parts & sell it..

for example.. like me.. i upgrade my car to MAP sensor.. & i sell my AFM sensor ..

at least i get back money that i spent..

u guyz should do it too

It's part of reduce, reuse & recycle

Save the planet, Save our pocket

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pcmoddingmy

Wow... I think most of the mods listed here is far beyond street use already. For street use, I don't think you need ogura clutch, standalone, performance conrod, aftermarket brake kit, full lock LSD or even aftermarket final drive. All these IMO is more suited for track use or autocross.

Well different ppl have different perception of a street car but for me I think a street car should have very good driveability (even in traffic jams), good handling (not too bumpy) and most importantly safety.

Maybe the video below might help in describing a proper street car:

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GReddy 52mm Electronic Oil/Fuel Pressure Gauge Set (NEW)



LASRE α-II 4A TWINCAM 20VALVE
Displacement: 1.587ℓ
Maximum Power: NET 165ps/7,800r.p.m
Maximum Torque: 16.5kg-m/5,600r.p.m

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nappx

i did not agree with pcmoddingmy, how many people build their car and whack at track, (not many la...except people have extraordinary money) most of them whack at street (not busy area la...crazy)..people up hill to genting, bukit putus, bukit tinggi....bukit belacan...erkkk..he he he...most of them modded car for fun.

why they need some part that just more suitable to use at track/autocross, with that thing make ur car diff from others. don't say it can't drive on daily basis. it depend to owner i think larr...

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D7zul

Ya lor..

it's up to individuals..

as for me.. i like :

Engine : all out powerful from 1k rpm to 9k rpm.. some of my mods concentrate on low rpm power & some of it on high rpm... i'm not an expert, but if it's proven & logical to me, i'm gonna do it

Suspension : obviously not standard.. i just install a sport spring & i'm happy with it

Intake : all out CAI (with an air filter of coz).. i'm currently looking for a set of trumpet to put in my plenum & ARC induction box.. if u guyz have that, PM me.. & also if u have any other CAI trick.. i'm gonna follow

Exhaust : not too loud.. i'm thinking of an exhaust valve that can switch from slow to loud with a button.. vice versa

and again.. that's just me.. an individual

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nappx

aiyahhh...
got people sell tom carbon air intake for svt..you should grab it..

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D7zul

yup.. i saw it..

RM550.. ok ke?

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nappx

take ler...cheap la tueeee...
cheap..consider..condition..difficult to get..and hard to sell...that why price become low...last time he put 1.2k woo..

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