I thought Profec E01 is a boost controller? Standalone can have display, plug in your notebook and place your notebook on dashboard. Can already lo .. You got numbers everywhere .. lolx
Before going further, always ask yourself. How much horse you want to satisfy you? Can your budget cope with it? NA is almost rm1000 for one wheel horse power. Some internal engine stuff co-related with each other, by just changing one part doesn't help much (eg, changing a high profile cam >264 without unleashing the rev limit)
Here is my story,
I'm one hell of lucky bastard. Bought the car, equip with SVT and dyno-ed 135whp (stock internals and ECU). Why it is 135whp? Extractor (4-1 Cusco) and Exhaust for my case. The final climb of the graph is at >7500rpm where it jump from 125 to final 135. Is it helpful for the final 500rpm, an increase of 10whp? You hardly feel it if you got a numb ass. The car's character is just a normal SVT that has a power of 125whp up to 7500rpm. Can't even outdrag a stock healthy BT (tried). My point is, the car dyno-ed peak 135whp at 8000rpm but the mid to high range rpm is a 1.6, 20valve SVT's strength. Here on, still determine to get more power and value for my pocket.
What i did?
Converted to map (open with trumpet), C160 Gbox, and a FPR. Dyno-ed again, same old 135whp. Stack the graph over the old dyno, same peak but mid to high increase a steady 10 - 15whp. Car character changes again. Shorter gear ratio, higher torque (13.xx vs 16.16kg). It definitely feels more power and the fact tells me too.
Mid of enjoying this SVT,
Preparing for track day, bought a bottle of Shell HX7 for an oil change. During track day, engine overheated with an oil temp >150' due to fake Shell HX7 that i got from 'petrol station'. Repair it with best of BT with SVT's parts this time. (hybrid colour 20v) . Car is out, running and dyno-ed. Peak increase to 141whp with a higher mid to high (about 3whp) comparing to the 2nd graph.
What this car has under the hood?
A mixture of the very best colours 20v into one. Usual extractor and exhaust combo. Trumpet with FPR. A thin slice of metal head gasket. My AFR for now without any piggyback / standalone is bad for plugs. Idling, a whoop ass 12 - 12.5. Full throttle till peak, 10.8 - 11.5. Some of you know what is my next upgrade already by now.
Can't imagine what it is going to be if the AFR in a proper zone. Can't wait for it too.
Lolx ...
I thought Profec E01 is a boost controller? Standalone can have display, plug in your notebook and place your notebook on dashboard. Can already lo .. You got numbers everywhere .. lolx
Before going further, always ask yourself. How much horse you want to satisfy you? Can your budget cope with it? NA is almost rm1000 for one wheel horse power. Some internal engine stuff co-related with each other, by just changing one part doesn't help much (eg, changing a high profile cam >264 without unleashing the rev limit)
Here is my story,
I'm one hell of lucky bastard. Bought the car, equip with SVT and dyno-ed 135whp (stock internals and ECU). Why it is 135whp? Extractor (4-1 Cusco) and Exhaust for my case. The final climb of the graph is at >7500rpm where it jump from 125 to final 135. Is it helpful for the final 500rpm, an increase of 10whp? You hardly feel it if you got a numb ass. The car's character is just a normal SVT that has a power of 125whp up to 7500rpm. Can't even outdrag a stock healthy BT (tried). My point is, the car dyno-ed peak 135whp at 8000rpm but the mid to high range rpm is a 1.6, 20valve SVT's strength. Here on, still determine to get more power and value for my pocket.
What i did?
Converted to map (open with trumpet), C160 Gbox, and a FPR. Dyno-ed again, same old 135whp. Stack the graph over the old dyno, same peak but mid to high increase a steady 10 - 15whp. Car character changes again. Shorter gear ratio, higher torque (13.xx vs 16.16kg). It definitely feels more power and the fact tells me too.
Mid of enjoying this SVT,
Preparing for track day, bought a bottle of Shell HX7 for an oil change. During track day, engine overheated with an oil temp >150' due to fake Shell HX7 that i got from 'petrol station'. Repair it with best of BT with SVT's parts this time. (hybrid colour 20v) . Car is out, running and dyno-ed. Peak increase to 141whp with a higher mid to high (about 3whp) comparing to the 2nd graph.
What this car has under the hood?
A mixture of the very best colours 20v into one. Usual extractor and exhaust combo. Trumpet with FPR. A thin slice of metal head gasket. My AFR for now without any piggyback / standalone is bad for plugs. Idling, a whoop ass 12 - 12.5. Full throttle till peak, 10.8 - 11.5. Some of you know what is my next upgrade already by now.
Can't imagine what it is going to be if the AFR in a proper zone. Can't wait for it too.
Lolx ...
chew, what is that oil for? oil treatment ah? or booster?
i think emanage has a display that sold separately called E-01..anyone can confirm it?
ya..ya.. thanks for the info.. i search on yahoo..
Greddy E-01 E-Manage Programmer Greddy E-01 E-Manage Programmer is a superior substitute to the Greddy Support Tool. It will allow you program the E-manage without the need for a laptop or the Greddy Support Tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j_l200s
i think microtech got... but have to buy it separately.
no need display wan la. u wan ur car kena pecah is it? XD
no lah.. choi2.. huhuhu.. put in hidden place la.. hahaha.. i look its cooler on my frens car, he put safc.. there is rpm blinking, speed blinking, etc.. fuh.. i also dont know what other in there means.. kekekeke
Interesting stuff sifoo km_chew. I wish I was as lucky as you... huhu
At the end of the day, I think the dyno machine also matters a lot. I've personally seen 20V STV with toda cams and Mines ECU + piggyback hitting only about 150hp at Trial (Dynojet), which is quite unacceptable seeing that a stock 20V (with OEM parts) can easily hit 140hp. IMO, 138hp for stock BT is already quite strong and gaining the extra hp with FPR, intake & exhaust mods should easily pump it to around 140hp. But again, it depends on where you dyno.
I dare say that some dynos (eg Dyno Dynamics) will definitely not show that much hp and certainly will make most ppl sad.... hehehe
Anyways, just my two cents... ;)
Interesting stuff sifoo km_chew. I wish I was as lucky as you... huhu
At the end of the day, I think the dyno machine also matters a lot. I've personally seen 20V STV with toda cams and Mines ECU + piggyback hitting only about 150hp at Trial (Dynojet), which is quite unacceptable seeing that a stock 20V (with OEM parts) can easily hit 140hp. IMO, 138hp for stock BT is already quite strong and gaining the extra hp with FPR, intake & exhaust mods should easily pump it to around 140hp. But again, it depends on where you dyno.
I dare say that some dynos (eg Dyno Dynamics) will definitely not show that much hp and certainly will make most ppl sad.... hehehe
Anyways, just my two cents... ;)
so moral of the story, dyno your car at the same place..rite?
Re: What Standalone ECU is better? 
Linear Mode
