Just cruise on the net and found this...for sharing and discussion..... :D
DIY for that little extra torque on the low end Origin of the idea: Japan
Purpose of the mod: Use extra capacitors to simulate a fast reacting battery under start and underload condition
Tools used: Snip, piler, Electric Drill, soldering iron
parts, capacitors of varies size, 105°C and 16V highly recommended
put the capacitors on the bare board and line them up
use soldering iron to connect them together....geez, that look like Godzilla's work
hmmm, its gonna be a larger than a ciggy pack, i better clean up some room under my hood
insolate the inside of the container so my crappy soldering work wont short things out
more insolation, I use two color of RTV to seperate the polar on the wiring, and hopefully I wont have to mod this again
this is how it look like on the underside san box
drill two holes on the box wall and squeeze wire thru, we are almost ready to test it
again use RTV or silicone to seal the box watertight. After this is done, we can try it on the car by connect the red to positive then black to negative( will causes a couple small sparks as these caps charge, it is normal)
I just test it by used 4th gear to go from 70 to 170km/hr with AC on high 1 hour ago, the engine doesnt give the shake as it previously did. Works better Sard Sweeper with much lower overall cost.
it supposes do the same thing as SARD sweeper, after all, I opened a SARD sweeper and mod this one
the electricity generate from automotive alternator has a frequency like black curve on figure 1,
with these capacitors helping out we can make the current less ripple and more or lese come to green line
figure 2 is the resistance formula for capacitor(s)
figure 3 is probably the most effecient way for capacitor to share and stablizing the ripples
some users of HKS version report loss power when engine reving over 6000rpm, so I went to test my setup earlier tonight, however I didn't get to go that fast when i spoted flashing lights around next bend on the highway
I went overboard and triple the caps used on my setup over SARD one, so here are the caps spec.
4700uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
3900uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
3300uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
2200uf 16V 105°C *8 (none in SARD version)
1000uf 16V 105°C *6 (2~3 should be enough)
wiring diagram? look above on figure 3, just connect all negative of cap on the board with soldering iron, then connect all positive side, try to draw it so the middle part of both path are on the side and easily attach a foot of 10AWG(I used 8AWG) cable on the middle and to the side of casing
black wire to negative post on the battery and red wire connect to positive post on the battery. Be advise engine brake would be a little fade once this device installed, but you should notice engine is running a lot smoother and more powerful on start and/or AC/audio is on.
I will be testing on 4AT and NCVT models later this week
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bought those caps for around RM70bucks pcb board and wires... however it didn't work when i tested with a computer 12V DC power supply.. it only managed to go 1.2V instead of a steady 12V.. i wonder why.. who wants those caps i offer at RM30.. 2pcs 4700microfarads, 8pcs 3900mf, 6pcs 2200mf, hows that?
Originally posted by ezwong2002@Dec 3 2004, 21:51 bought those caps for around RM70bucks pcb board and wires... however it didn't work when i tested with a computer 12V DC power supply.. it only managed to go 1.2V instead of a steady 12V.. i wonder why.. who wants those caps i offer at RM30.. 2pcs 4700microfarads, 8pcs 3900mf, 6pcs 2200mf, hows that?
the wiring connection still not clear.........ok.......fixed it with parallel connection as per fig.3.....but which caps go first ....etc etc......could u please specify on the wiriing diagram connection.... thnxxxxx mr.servo......I would like ti try this DIY.....