Wira Aeroback (4g15, 6a10)

sanekit

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Dec 9, 2015
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If need bracket means mounting point differs, right?
it's the same actually. just the bracket use for the side mountings are not same as 4G1X. Same as when u swap to 4G9X, the left and right mounts use different brackets but same position. 4G6X oso use different brackets.

Hi sane!

Thank you for your compliment! Though, my knowledge are really limited, as it's based on Google, basic physics understanding, and some general reading (lack of practical/real-world application).

Do allow me to clarify. So you are saying that the mounting points are the same, but only the point where the bracket is allocated is on the left, and the gearbox point is also different. Legally, it's fine (correct me if I'm wrong) and should not provide any potential "issues" mechanically, so to speak.

Also, I came to research that JDM 6a10 autobox are much more refined and durable when in comparison to 6a12 pv6 autobox. I believe the pv6 autobox is prone to failure due to a crucial cooling agent is removed from the gearbox (Proton Malaysia cost-cutting regime), resulting to a weak and fragile gearbox. Naturally, 6a12 autobox should be able to withstand more torque when compared to the 6a10 box. Though, it only applies if I'm able to attain the JDM variant 6a12 autobox. Till the time that I may attain a certified JDM 6a12 autobox, I might want to stick to the 6a10 box (well, only JDM has it, so no fear for Proton 4g92p famous box failure).

I believe that I am able to change the engine oil, and other moderation check-up, on time (if not, earlier). I like to care of my ride, constantly. It's just something about cars that made me feel, that I'm at peace. You know the feeling? :love: Though, what engine oil is best suited for the 6a10? Would thinner oils be applicable (thinner oil tends to have better power delivery and/or pickup, trade-offs with lubrication and protection)? Mitsu sp3? Got it! :driver:
Forgot to tell u, get 6A12 japan halfcut autobox. Not the PV6. Much better if you can get the turbo autobox. That is if u plan to mod/stroker your engine. A 4WD autobox is build like a tank and can handle abuse and torque a lot better than 2wd auto. But then your front will be a lot more heavier due to the gearbox weight (7litres ATF). Mind you, maintaining a V6 here is not cheap. Parts are very rare to come by.

Engine oil, stick to manufacturers recommendation. Usually it's 10w-40 semi. ATF use mitsubishi diaqueen or proton (last resort..). If u got more budget, buy Amsoil SP3 ATF.
 

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
1,616
157
663
Petaling Jaya
Hi LSM!

I agree with you that 4g63t, 6a12tt, or even a 6a12 na manual, would be a better platform overall when compared to the 6a10. Most people would want, in my case, to get a 4g93t instead of a 6a10. I might have done the same thing, if and only if, that 4g93t aint so expensive.

Now, the maintenance of 6a10 are expected to be similar to pv6 run-in cost. In fact, it might cost a little more when it comes to very specific parts that 6a10 itself only can have. That being said, with a costlier and not-so-user friendly engine platform, to squeeze reliable power or to have an amazing power delivery is another issue for the 6a10 platform too. Oh well :bawling:

Though, power delivery is definitely on my bucket list. However, I am driving a 4g15 sohc auto currently. In my shoes, anything that may deliver better power output than the 4g15 sohc auto, is a considerable option. In the event if I were to attain 4g91/92/93, quite likely I would get bored by the "normal" performance and build. I guess, this is where the 6a10 hook me on pretty tight. It's not your usual choice among modders, and definitely not one to go for when it comes to performance objective. But it sure beats 4g15 sohc auto in terms of whp, torque, and number of gears. So, for a moderately acceptable price of swapping, it seemed like a feasible choice. Then, I came to know the uniqueness of the engine note. From there, it became a solid choice for me. Automatic drive, a little spice of engine music tune, and comparable power to 4g counterpart in auto variant? Sounds like an option for me!

You are right, bang-for-buck performance improvement is definitely on 4g93 sohc/dohc. Lighter valvetrain, bigger displacement (theres no replacement for displacement, except turbocharging), and cheaper maintenance. But in auto variant, they both feel about the same.

6 holes, 6 pistons. God bless me. :adore:
BTW, my car use to be 4G15 auto. I swapped to 4G93 SOHC auto. Didnt go the DOHC route due to personal reason. :biggrin:
 

Izso

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Hi Izso!

With proper stroking, only fuel mapping is necessary to ensure reliability? Yet, I thought I need to look into other areas to ensure reliability. Seems like I've learned something new today. Thank you for that!

Though, when switched to 6a10, it should a MMC ecu. No more self-adapting VDO. :hmmmm:

Good oils, are something I'm not familiar with. Viscosity is as far as I can understand from the perspective of physics. Anything further, I'm at dead-end. Thus, mind sharing a little of your recipe? :love:
eh no no.. fuel mapping to extract maximum power out of a stroked engine. Not necessary for reliability. Stroking and oversizing doesn't do anything to reliability except perhaps increase heat. So I guess a better cooling system would do you good. Like a Proton CFE radiator which is PNP into Wiras but thicker core. A better fan would be useful too.

Good oils as in reputable brands like Liquimoli, Motul, etc etc. Not weird branded oils that you've never heard before. Depending on your engines requirements, just go for a good oil. Like for example if you completely rebuild your 6A10 engine with new seals and gaskets, then after run-in stick with fully synthetic oils and opt for good oils like Amsoil Signature FS or Motul FS, etc etc. These high performance oils will help keep the engine running for a long time to come. And once you opt for fully syn, don't go back to mineral or semi.

Oh and if you're totally anal, get a oil cooler with a thermostat to ensure maximum engine life span. But that's only if you're completely anal.
 

niklys

Known Member
Thread starter
Feb 6, 2016
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Yup, you need to try it to feel it. Actually it is smooth throughout from idling to acceleration. Initial pick up also it is smooth compared to the 4 porter......lol:driver:
Hi vr!

If only the idling with D in gear does not vibrate as harsh or hard as my 4g15, i am pretty much satisfied for a starter. Then, it boils down to performance delivery whether is it better than 4g15 sohc auto. I'm quite sure that the engine that produces the exhaust note is satisfying. Oh well :driver:
 

RENESIS VIII

7,000 RPM
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Jun 13, 2012
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Hi Renesis!

It took me awhile before I decided to venture into 6a10. But after careful consideration, I decided to nurture a v6 layout. Likely because it is unique, and I might be the only rare few to have it left. With the unique music tune that it produce, better performance by a huge margin compared to my 4g15 sohc auto, it definitely seemed like a bargain for me.

I wish I could adopt manual driving style. But it seemed like I'm pretty much living in a comfort zone with automatic drives, yet, wanting a little more spice in my ride. Greedy, yet not wanting to pay the price of driving it like how it's supposed to be driven. Yeap, that's me. :love:

I did consider that if I turbocharge it, parts from 6a12tt is definitely a must. Due to the exposed intercooler, I would definitely attract JPJ. Then, anything could be in the grey area. To avoid this from occuring, stroking seemed viable probably because they can't know that it's stroked on the spot of inspection, unless sent to Puspakom for a thorough inspection. Thus, I considered before to stroke it first, and to decide to turbocharge it later-on, or retaining a stroked NA layout.

You are definitely accurate and on point. I'm really hooked by the music that 6a10 can produce. It's so refined and aggressive concurrently. Ain't gonna lie about it, and have been outfront pointing since the beginning of this discussion. Hahahaha! :driver::biggrin:

Anyway, bone stock 6a10 might give me issues when it comes to hard cornering. But straight line, shoud be cool, isn't it (i could be wrong)?
I've read all of your replies. Seems that for you, anything that performs better than 4G15 is an upgrade option for you and you picked 6A10 for its unique characteristics. Understandable.

It is fine if you want to stick to automatic but I wonder will the automatic gearbox from 6A10 suffer similar issues like the automatic gearbox in Perdana 6A12. That gearbox is known for many issues and if the 6A10 gearbox is the same as Perdana's, then you really need to be careful with this gearbox considering that you are getting a used gearbox instead of a new one right? I don't even think you can get one new anyway. :confused: Just pay more attention and do more research about the gearbox of 6A10. If you are turbocharging your 6A10, you should pay even more attention to the gearbox in case the gearbox could not take the extra power. It will be a shame if you have a good engine build but end up hampered by the gearbox. Anyway, I'll still stick to my point of going for stroking instead of turbocharging. By remaining NA, you can still enjoy the smoothness of V6 engine but if you are going turbo, some of the smoothness might get affected by turbo lag.

Straight line performance I guess should be fine. Maybe during braking it might affect your car since the weight is more focused in front. I'm not sure if this works or not but you can try to shift some weight to the rear to balance out your car. Like maybe relocating the battery to the rear and maybe use wider tyres at the rear?
 

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
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Petaling Jaya
Hi vr!

If only the idling with D in gear does not vibrate as harsh or hard as my 4g15, i am pretty much satisfied for a starter. Then, it boils down to performance delivery whether is it better than 4g15 sohc auto. I'm quite sure that the engine that produces the exhaust note is satisfying. Oh well :driver:
when u swap engine to from 4g15 to 4g6x or 6Ax, you'll need to use full rubber mount. hence more vibration. standard mount is not full rubber and has gap to reduce engine vibration. because the new swapped engine is heavier, you'll need full rubber mounting. if not less than a year need to change the mountings. LOL :driver::driver:
 

lsm1991

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Sep 30, 2011
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hahaalright i see, you are trying to build something diferent, well keep us updated on the project (maybe start a build thread) this should be an interesting project. the sound track, well its on the nicer side, tho the tappets do take away alot of the 'niceness' (mines tappeting away annoying me)


when u swap engine to from 4g15 to 4g6x or 6Ax, you'll need to use full rubber mount. hence more vibration. standard mount is not full rubber and has gap to reduce engine vibration. because the new swapped engine is heavier, you'll need full rubber mounting. if not less than a year need to change the mountings. LOL :driver::driver:
but those mounts last a long time.... infact im not even sure when mine were replaced,
 

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
1,616
157
663
Petaling Jaya
hahaalright i see, you are trying to build something diferent, well keep us updated on the project (maybe start a build thread) this should be an interesting project. the sound track, well its on the nicer side, tho the tappets do take away alot of the 'niceness' (mines tappeting away annoying me)

but those mounts last a long time.... infact im not even sure when mine were replaced,
your car still stock ah? mine after a few mods here and there all koyak dy. now front and gearbox side using full rubber mount. passenger side going out soon. will change that one to full rubber and maintain stock mount for rear part of crossmember mount. if all full rubber then my dash will rattle like mad. last time i use full rubber for both front and rear part crossmember mount. ended up change the rear part to stock coz of massive rattling while on idle in D. torque transfer is nice with full rubber mount. :driver:
 

vr2turbo

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Engine mount, my front and rear always break, cannot take too much power, engine rocking front and back......lol
 

lsm1991

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Sep 30, 2011
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your car still stock ah? mine after a few mods here and there all koyak dy. now front and gearbox side using full rubber mount. passenger side going out soon. will change that one to full rubber and maintain stock mount for rear part of crossmember mount. if all full rubber then my dash will rattle like mad. last time i use full rubber for both front and rear part crossmember mount. ended up change the rear part to stock coz of massive rattling while on idle in D. torque transfer is nice with full rubber mount. :driver:
mine... erm mostly stock... you also drive a v6?? was told that that these v6 mounts seem to last a long time before actually needing replacements.... ofc when we do replace them, $$$ :argh:

edit: no wait... now i think back, i can hardly call mine stock already, alot of funky stuff has been doe to it, but no hardcore stufflah.
 

RENESIS VIII

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Jun 13, 2012
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mine... erm mostly stock... you also drive a v6?? was told that that these v6 mounts seem to last a long time before actually needing replacements.... ofc when we do replace them, $$$ :argh:

edit: no wait... now i think back, i can hardly call mine stock already, alot of funky stuff has been doe to it, but no hardcore stufflah.
He drives a 4G93 SOHC
 

Random Post Every 5 Minutes

Hi Guys.. just wanted to ask...

ANyone has cleaned their MAF before? Any preferred methods?

I did mine with contact cleaner and I find my idling is much smoother and FC seems better.

Other guys have recommended to use Alcohol to do it...

SO any other methods?
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