the article is really interesting..but stil..all the factors tat lead to melt function an alternator is stil cannot be prevent...only thing is to get a volt meter reading so tat u wil know your battery reading and wil get notice if your alternator is almost dieing..
i wanted to know if there is any outside cause tat can be prevent @@
about alternator carbon brush, i also have diy changed my alternator carbon brush.
actually thought my alternator kong, then take out the alternator to inspect.. alternator ok, but actually the belts longgar so battery not charging.
since its out took the time to changed carbon brush.
i'll post up the diy soon.
desolder the old brush. careful not to lose the spring.
old and new brush comparison, half already gone. (RM3 at spare part shop. bring along the brush n the case to test fit.)
this is the rectifier n regulator. it can be checked also for damaged using multimeter. got 6 diodes inside (forget wheres the link as reference in the net. )
back to brush, after remove old brush, reinstall back spring, new brush n solder.
this is the rectifier n regulator. it can be checked also for damaged using multimeter. got 6 diodes inside (forget wheres the link as reference in the net. ) http://URL.photobucket.com/albums/v2...h_Image014.jpg
i read lot of information regarding tis at google search...
most of it is the heat, bearing, carbon, bla bla bla..
and i found 1 interesting question...werby the question stopped half way..
there is one of the driver also getting alternator malt function after driving in the rain..and then there was a replied by someone..
Quote:
You've fried a connection wire to your alternator and consequently cooked the alternator. Unless for some reason your battery's given out, or it's terminals have corroded or been tampered with, then the rain sounds like a key indicator. First, there's electrical goop they put around the connections, but it could drip with travel and time, and leave you a little vulnerable to rain and condensation right where you don't need it, which in general sends a short - right to the bib connection and cooks it like a piece of glass in a bonfire. After which your connection is completely useless, the battery does not get charged, and usually the alternator fries, even though it will keep spinning. Just no charge. It doesn't take much goop, nor much time to fry. Usually casing around the wire at that point will cook, and when you go to put another alternator on, you have an exposed piece of wire just waiting for moisture to jump a charge between it and the alternator and you get the problem all over again, mysteriously each time it rains. What you need to get is the wire replaced, which might be a pain, or, the casing replaced, which can be done simply by getting this red gasket goop for a few bucks, painting the wire carefully back up to the point to where the ring/bib connector is, and making sure you have new electrical goop at the new connection. That electrical goop is also only a few bucks, and looks like KY jelly. I wouldn't bet too much it isn't, but it's not that expensive to get the right stuff. A rubberized sleeve should then pop over the top of that connection to give the assembly a bit of help. That sleeve should be on the connection wire. If it's cooked, get a new one when you drop off your alternator for a core discount on a new/used one. If you get a used rebuilt one, get one with a warrantee, usually fifteen to 30 bucks more on a better model alternator. For diagnosis in the future, some auto part shops have a cart they pull right out their front door, hook up to your alternator and battery and tell you what's working or not, even how much of a percentage of an alternator is working, and usually this is free. They won't do the labor to replace the alternator, but they might recommend someone. Belts are the worst aspect of replacing alternators, since they need the correct tension, and each car has their favored system to work this
and the last ppl posted in tis is ...
Quote:
sounds like the belt got wet and not charging the battery.
read from the article, yes maybe ur main power cable from alt. to battery or main harness connector got some problem. u have to check from the alt. main cable, trace the cable, see if anything wrong/spoilt.
like mine, the alt. main cable goin to the main harness before entering firewall (the harness is outside firewall) melts, exposing the copper, making it not properly transferring charge to the battery and electrical circuit. eventually it broke and use up all the power from battery while driving.
at 1st, thought the alt. thats why took it out. found out its the cable spoilt.
i clean the harness terminal and rewired the main cable and put another extra cable from alt. direct to battery with suitable power fuse (60A). do not use those power amp fuse, its just melts away the casing .
belts also maybe the course. before the cable incident, my alt. belt longgar, battery not fully charge.. end up at roadside, lucky able to trace the problem and near friend house.
have to drive without headlamp to friend house. loading the alt. will make the alt. harder to spin thus the belt keeps slipping.
i had done a measurement battery volts using multimeter/voltmeter and everything is fine...when engine off,nearly 13v...when engine on,around 13-14...same as after open light,aircon,radio,signal,pressing brake..lol
i;ll check the cable agian...i saw the main connector to the alternator is like unprotected harness like tat...so i think tat is the main factor of causing water enter the harness,short circuit and melt my alternator...maybe use wire tape to cover it or something....
:D
the only prevention was found..wahahaha
Last edited by clanzkiller; 06-25-2008 at 06:39 AM.
normal aa us malaysian, got problem then check and tukar hahahaha
some ppl sez, we can ask wokshop to do a load test on our alternator..but so far when I ask any pomen....they sez they don't understand...
where can do load test??... i wanna load test my aircond compressor... ridiculously heavy/laggy when aircond is switched on... swicthed off, car feels vr light....