liki:
it is much more better than b4 already.when the fuel priced@rm1.62/l,with around rm68 for full tank i can run only 330km.the fc by now with old priced fuel i only need rm53 of fuel to run 300km.
Wah!!! wat did u do to ur car and the fuel consumption is way better now...?? plz let me know...bcz im also using a 4G92p egine but my f.c is like hell man!! for the current fuel price, i pump rm35 but only can go for 150km!! almost like a turbo car la. i only did a minor mod on my car only, like...k&n open pod filter, 1.8 g/b(from 1.6 auto to manual).
need some advise to solve this problem...thanks a lot!!:regular_smile:
Yes, i have see through all the pages that posted, is about coverting the sohc to dohc project, and i also know that this is a very successful and good project. But, i'm just asking wat have u done on ur car until ur fuel consumption become better...heheheh..i know i out of the topic.... just seeking some advise only...if can... thanks.
since u have read the posts why can't u figure out the answer yet?ok,the mech told me that my valve seal and so on already broken,i think that might be the coz.is ur car idling ok when cold start?shake or not?be\4 i done this mod,the speed limit adjuster will shake when a/con on(b4 traffic light),but now no more.
yeap.. i did use 91 head instead of 93 head.. its fine witout any leakage.. but damn tired 2 find the rite setting 4 this machine.. but it did serve me well all this long.. tried head 2 head wit putra.. 1 2 3 ok.. 4th gear kena... haha.. ok la 4 below 1k invesment :p.. cheers
wat block u using? 1.8 SOHC? then convert to 1.8DOHC but 4g91 head? nice pickup leh....
[quote=kob3bryant]kksoon:
finally get my data already,5th gear 2800rpm with100k/h.
if 3k rpm is it aroung 110kmh?
the f/c really depand on the gbox raxio oso....
like my..i remember last time full tank even can reach up to 500km...shit now oni around 420km....coz of the gbox....i suspect...
since u have read the posts why can't u figure out the answer yet?ok,the mech told me that my valve seal and so on already broken,i think that might be the coz.is ur car idling ok when cold start?shake or not?be\4 i done this mod,the speed limit adjuster will shake when a/con on(b4 traffic light),but now no more.
heheh!! im noob here ma, so, cannot figure it out lo...hehehhe!!!
ok, my car idling when cold start, not so good lo, the rpm will be around 1.5k to 2k lo...and need times up to 5 min or more to be idle around 1k. but the engine didn't shake that much la, just like normal.
anyway!! thanks kob3bryant for ur advise. hope i can find the problem soon. heehee ...
1 more thing, the dohc head that u are using now is a 1.8 dohc head rite, and this head is it the same like the putra or sgti 1???
No offence to voice up my dissatisfaction. You think I'm posting a reply simply to bash your guys. Come on, why should I do like this. Wasting my time only.
You thought I'm driving nissan sentra ah? You're wrong leh. My car was Proton Wira 1.6XLi A/B, like what E819 senior member did, was using 4G91 head instead of 93 head. Same with him, no any leakage, damn tired to find the rite setting for this machine.
The distributor always kong, timing couldn't tune and match properly. Cable always short circuit. Like what a member said, NA lag. Hopefully the senior member understand my purpose was not kacau at here, is find a solution. Basic info about the problem:
4G91 DOHC Headcam (Carburator, which use distributor), 4G92P Bottom Block
4G91 Distributor and Plug Cable
Stock 4G92P wiring remain
Stock 4G92P ECU
4G91 Gearbox w/4G91 TCU
Problem annoying me:
- Valve tappet sound, tek-tek like diesel, died spot, cannot cure.
- Distributor always give problem, press hard on acceleraotr, the car shake like short circuit, but normal foot, it was ok
- Timing not stable as I can monitor through my RPM meter. RPM can be like sudden drop to 400rpm goes up a bit then went down again to 500rpm and slowly go back to normal.
- PUT device or ECU device detect the diagnosetic code always come out an error which the error was wrong reading or not accurate (e.g. the speed sensor was working the ECU said faulty)
Yup, that's the one. As what the mechanic who service for my car recently said, the engine oil must be thicker or at least 15W/50 with a can of oil treatment to reduce the hydraulic lifter sound or tappet sound. The hydraulic lifter for my car was fixed position, unadjustable. It sounded frequently when you start your engine at the morning until the engine oil was hot or enough to lubricant the hydraulic lifter.
That's why service centre in PROTON was using PETRONAS MACH5 20W/50 to service the Perdana V6 but not synthetic oil.
He final comment that the best and cheap way to cut off the problem was restore back to original SOHC.
pciericagp:
brother, 4G91 head on a 4G92 bottom is already a known problem causer....u just got the wrong recipe for the 'rojak' job of a 4G92 DOHC......4G92 DOHC in original form is not tat bad as engine as u described earlier......n if u say the FC is bad, i've seen a few properly 'rojak-ed' 4G92 DOHC wif light mods clocking in very very respectable FC.....
