SATRIA 1.6 - Seeking advices for TUNING & UPGRADES

LittleWhiteWagon

1,500 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 12, 2009
1,656
187
1,663
P.J
Probably timing is wrong. Previously my car feels even slower than stock Myvi 1.3 MT. After that, I can feel that it is slightly more powerful than Myvi now.



What is the cause of the blow?



Oh, then perhaps I shall just take 4-2-1 as you recommended? For the extractor, does the material really matters? There are those standard materials that what chinese call as "white steel" or should I go for stainless steel?


I mean there's no harm in going the 4-1 route, but personally with the way the engine is designed stock, it's quite pointless to me personally la. Lagi if you're not going to do the piping, muffler, add a cam, port the head, raise compression etc etc. Most 4-1 extractors here are pretty shit in design for our engines haha.

For the material, like what bro vr2turbo said, it's just prone to rust a bit at the welds, but nothing much in terms of performance la. I personally feel it would be better if you got the 'white steel' one and get it wrapped during installation. Keep all the heat nicely inside the extractor and away from the oil pan. The only downside to the 'white steel' ones is that some of the pipes are press bent which does restrict a bit of airflow, and it is debatable whether or not it'll affect your performance... so it's up to you.

Doesn't help that our 4G15 oil temps get high fast when driven hard. :bawling:
 
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LittleWhiteWagon

1,500 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 12, 2009
1,656
187
1,663
P.J
Was cruising down to JB @ 4500RPM but it didnt exceed 160kmph.
Suddenly it slow down & cut off.
The mech said that radiator hose was dirty & stuck.

:(
Oh shit bro... Time for 93 block swap bro, the head no damage right? :burnout:
 

RENESIS VIII

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jun 13, 2012
7,063
950
1,713
Ipoh
Yah! rusty radiator means not maintained at all (previous owner).....:smokin:
I once experienced stuck/jammed radiator before. It din't blow my engine but the continuous rise in temperature can be seen when I am driving constantly above 80kmh. That is when the RPM is getting close to 3000rpm, then the rise in temperature can be seen. Otherwise, temperature remains normal.
 

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator
May 11, 2010
29,998
8,385
1,713
Petaling Jaya
I once experienced stuck/jammed radiator before. It din't blow my engine but the continuous rise in temperature can be seen when I am driving constantly above 80kmh. That is when the RPM is getting close to 3000rpm, then the rise in temperature can be seen. Otherwise, temperature remains normal.
Yours probably getting stuck, hampering the flow of water, that is why high revs get hotter
 

RENESIS VIII

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jun 13, 2012
7,063
950
1,713
Ipoh
I mean there's no harm in going the 4-1 route, but personally with the way the engine is designed stock, it's quite pointless to me personally la. Lagi if you're not going to do the piping, muffler, add a cam, port the head, raise compression etc etc. Most 4-1 extractors here are pretty shit in design for our engines haha.

For the material, like what bro vr2turbo said, it's just prone to rust a bit at the welds, but nothing much in terms of performance la. I personally feel it would be better if you got the 'white steel' one and get it wrapped during installation. Keep all the heat nicely inside the extractor and away from the oil pan. The only downside to the 'white steel' ones is that some of the pipes are press bent which does restrict a bit of airflow, and it is debatable whether or not it'll affect your performance... so it's up to you.

Doesn't help that our 4G15 oil temps get high fast when driven hard. :bawling:
Now you are making me doubt whether should I even change the extractor since you say it is quite pointless. After reading what you write, it looks like 4-2-1 is the better choice than 4-1 then?

By the way, what is the material for stock extractor? Mine now is like rusted all the way.

Yours probably getting stuck, hampering the flow of water, that is why high revs get hotter
It is stuck after I brought it for a check with my mechanic. Flushed the radiator later and everything solved. But still, the water inside the radiator is still brownish even after flushing.
 

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator
May 11, 2010
29,998
8,385
1,713
Petaling Jaya
By the way, what is the material for stock extractor? Mine now is like rusted all the way.

It is stuck after I brought it for a check with my mechanic. Flushed the radiator later and everything solved. But still, the water inside the radiator is still brownish even after flushing.
Cast Iron loh!:biggrin:

Your Radiator was opened up and clean and water still rusty because the rust is from engine block. Radiator material do no rust at all. The engine block made of iron is where the rust comes from.
After cleaning the radiator and fitted back onto the car, the top hose which is the return hose from engine to radiator should be left out. Pour water in radiator and run the engine. When come to operating temperature the water will flow in from bottom hose and out from top hose. Since top hose is not attached back yet, the water is being flushed out. Keep adding water to radiator. Flush until water coming out from engine is clear....:driver:

After that refit everything, tighten, refill water and add coolant/anti rust. Run and check for leak. If have pressure test pump, pump up the pressure and check for leaks.
 

RENESIS VIII

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
Jun 13, 2012
7,063
950
1,713
Ipoh
Cast Iron loh!:biggrin:

Your Radiator was opened up and clean and water still rusty because the rust is from engine block. Radiator material do no rust at all. The engine block made of iron is where the rust comes from.
After cleaning the radiator and fitted back onto the car, the top hose which is the return hose from engine to radiator should be left out. Pour water in radiator and run the engine. When come to operating temperature the water will flow in from bottom hose and out from top hose. Since top hose is not attached back yet, the water is being flushed out. Keep adding water to radiator. Flush until water coming out from engine is clear....:driver:

After that refit everything, tighten, refill water and add coolant/anti rust. Run and check for leak. If have pressure test pump, pump up the pressure and check for leaks.
Din't do block flushing last time. It was more than a year ago. So, is it necessary to flush out rust from the block?
 

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