Rotary Engines - FAQ.
- Thread starter Alchemis
- Start date
Re: Re Faq
ahahahah it's true.. kira nasib :P ahahahah
i got this advise from an Apex Seal supplier in USA...
in order to make rotaries last long, premix is required. even oil metering pump is still intact...
i had my powerFC adjusted to pump more oil in the combustion chamber. but sometimes i also put in 2t oil... the reason... petrol nowadays they are mixed with those engine cleaning agent... these agents tend to make ur engine sparkling clean.. oil that got pumped into the engine will most likely disolved and burnt along the combustion...so.. 2T is a safety net there just incase... not enough lube in it...
there's nothing say MUST on 2T mixing.. japanese can run rotaries without premix for like 200k KM...so... like Heath says... it's debattable... lots of debating happen in RX7club.com
ahahahah it's true.. kira nasib :P ahahahah
i got this advise from an Apex Seal supplier in USA...
in order to make rotaries last long, premix is required. even oil metering pump is still intact...
i had my powerFC adjusted to pump more oil in the combustion chamber. but sometimes i also put in 2t oil... the reason... petrol nowadays they are mixed with those engine cleaning agent... these agents tend to make ur engine sparkling clean.. oil that got pumped into the engine will most likely disolved and burnt along the combustion...so.. 2T is a safety net there just incase... not enough lube in it...
there's nothing say MUST on 2T mixing.. japanese can run rotaries without premix for like 200k KM...so... like Heath says... it's debattable... lots of debating happen in RX7club.com
Re: Re Faq
if you trash it very often... yes u should whenever u think u trashing ur car...
but RX8 rotaries tend to be designed to take synthetic oil... rotary synthetic oils..synthetic oil's behavior tend to be stickier...likes to coat on the metal surface.. so... putting 2T... maybe just for fun :) or waste money on RX8...
if you trash it very often... yes u should whenever u think u trashing ur car...
but RX8 rotaries tend to be designed to take synthetic oil... rotary synthetic oils..synthetic oil's behavior tend to be stickier...likes to coat on the metal surface.. so... putting 2T... maybe just for fun :) or waste money on RX8...
- Feb 16, 2007
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- 1,528
Info: RON 95
Simple answer - Yes, you CAN use RON 95 with rotaries - SA, FC, FD, SE models.
The lower the octane, the easier it is for the fuel to detonate under compression = easier for engine knock to occur = bad for your engine. This is a design of the fuel itself and adjusted by the petrol companies using special additives and formulations.
Engine knock occurs because of high compression, heat and fuel mixture causes the fuel to undergo premature combustion - i.e. before the power stroke (in piston cars).
All engines are designed with a minimum RON rating. This is usually 91 for most cars manufactured year 2000+
Generally, sportscars should use high octane fuel because they tend to have higher compression in the chambers = turbo, supercharge, high compression NA.
It is very recommended to use as high octane as possible for rotaries because it is generally high compression and high(er) operating temperatures. Especially if you are out gunning it. SA's, FD's and FC's are either turbo-charged or have high compression ratios. SE's (RX8) have high compression ratios.
The main affect is engine knock - which leads to or is an indication of detonation - which is very bad for any engine and can cause damage to crankshafts, the engine block and other moving parts. In the case of rotaries, it can cause apex seal damage/failure or in the worst case, engine blow. It is not fun to replace your rotor housings and rotors. However, the FC's and FD's automatically throttle the fuel the moment it detects knock. I believe it is the same for the RX8.
If you use lower than recommended octane fuel, your ECU will automatically adjust to compensate for knock = less power. But the reverse is not true - using higher octane does not increase power. You must use the minimum octane recommended by your manufacturer.
There are a few places where the above is not true - in mountainous regions. There is less air pressure and hence, the octane of fuel will be lower in those areas. I am told that there are some parts of USA where the available octane is RON 87-89.
[EDIT] Officially, please use the highest RON fuel you can find. Those of you who own a PowerFC will be able to see the direct affect of using lower RON fuel - the Power FC will show you the engine knock detected by the sensor. Any excessive amount of knock must be checked ASAP.
---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:27 PM ----------
INFO: Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic and Mineral engine oil
This is specific to engine oil - NOT transmission oil, axle oil, LSD, etc.
Yes, you CAN use Synthetic. BUT there are caveats. Do use the recommended SAE rating of oil required for your situation.
The main reason for using mineral oil is the fact that it is value for money and widely recommended by large portions of the sports car community. It is also the recommended type of oil by Mazda. With cheap mineral oil, cost-wise, you can change your oil 3-5 times more often than with equivalent synthetic oil.
Mineral oil is extracted from crude oil - the stuff from which petrol, diesel, jet-fuel and other petroleum products come from. Mineral oil is a petroleum distillation that has additives such as special waxes and sealants to prevent it from freezing in cold weather and maintaining its viscosity throughout a temperature range.
The reasons for using synthetic is the belief that synthetic is a superior quality of oil. This is both true and false. Synthetics are man-made using chemistry based on esters. It is designed to have excellent viscosity consistency rating throughout a temperature range without additives. This is the primary reason why synthetics are considered superior. Additionally, some believe there are no additives in it that can cook and leave residues inside the oil system of an engine.
We are also told that if you use Synthetics, you can double or triple the period until the next oil change. This is true to an extent.
The problem is the lack of shear and its fantastic smoothness can be a problem. Engines that have been overhauled or had new parts installed need to be "broken in". This is a process of allowing the internal parts of the engine to wear down a tiny amount at lower engine speeds so as to function smoothly. Synthetics are so fantastic that this does not happen so well and can lead to excessive wear and tear at certain areas.
Idemitsu has a synthetic oil that was used in the Le Man 787 racer. When the engine was broken down after the race, it was found to have literally no wear and tear and in excellent condition. I have to point out that the 787 engine parts were machined and balanced to micro-meters of tolerance. This is an excellent situation for fully synthetic oil. None of that is ever done to a standard sports car.
That said, do use synthetic oil if you can afford it. But the point of mineral oil is so you can change it often. Observing the quality of the waste oil can give you clues as the health of your engine.
Semi-Synthetic is a mineral + synthetic formula. The synthetic portion is 30% or less of the total. This makes it cheaper than fully synthetic while providing an equivalent performance. Again, do use semi-synthetic if you can afford it.
However, if you put your car on a dyno, I sincerely doubt you will find any significant power improvement between synthetic and mineral.
NOTE: do NOT switch from synthetic back to mineral. You CAN switch from mineral to synthetic. You CAN switch back to mineral after a rebuild and then change to synthetic.
The reason for this is the additives in mineral oil do not sit well with synthetic. Semi-synthetics are specially formulated to prevent this, but its not the same as mixing a can of synthetic with a bottle of mineral.
Simple answer - Yes, you CAN use RON 95 with rotaries - SA, FC, FD, SE models.
The lower the octane, the easier it is for the fuel to detonate under compression = easier for engine knock to occur = bad for your engine. This is a design of the fuel itself and adjusted by the petrol companies using special additives and formulations.
Engine knock occurs because of high compression, heat and fuel mixture causes the fuel to undergo premature combustion - i.e. before the power stroke (in piston cars).
All engines are designed with a minimum RON rating. This is usually 91 for most cars manufactured year 2000+
Generally, sportscars should use high octane fuel because they tend to have higher compression in the chambers = turbo, supercharge, high compression NA.
It is very recommended to use as high octane as possible for rotaries because it is generally high compression and high(er) operating temperatures. Especially if you are out gunning it. SA's, FD's and FC's are either turbo-charged or have high compression ratios. SE's (RX8) have high compression ratios.
The main affect is engine knock - which leads to or is an indication of detonation - which is very bad for any engine and can cause damage to crankshafts, the engine block and other moving parts. In the case of rotaries, it can cause apex seal damage/failure or in the worst case, engine blow. It is not fun to replace your rotor housings and rotors. However, the FC's and FD's automatically throttle the fuel the moment it detects knock. I believe it is the same for the RX8.
If you use lower than recommended octane fuel, your ECU will automatically adjust to compensate for knock = less power. But the reverse is not true - using higher octane does not increase power. You must use the minimum octane recommended by your manufacturer.
There are a few places where the above is not true - in mountainous regions. There is less air pressure and hence, the octane of fuel will be lower in those areas. I am told that there are some parts of USA where the available octane is RON 87-89.
[EDIT] Officially, please use the highest RON fuel you can find. Those of you who own a PowerFC will be able to see the direct affect of using lower RON fuel - the Power FC will show you the engine knock detected by the sensor. Any excessive amount of knock must be checked ASAP.
---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:27 PM ----------
INFO: Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic and Mineral engine oil
This is specific to engine oil - NOT transmission oil, axle oil, LSD, etc.
Yes, you CAN use Synthetic. BUT there are caveats. Do use the recommended SAE rating of oil required for your situation.
The main reason for using mineral oil is the fact that it is value for money and widely recommended by large portions of the sports car community. It is also the recommended type of oil by Mazda. With cheap mineral oil, cost-wise, you can change your oil 3-5 times more often than with equivalent synthetic oil.
Mineral oil is extracted from crude oil - the stuff from which petrol, diesel, jet-fuel and other petroleum products come from. Mineral oil is a petroleum distillation that has additives such as special waxes and sealants to prevent it from freezing in cold weather and maintaining its viscosity throughout a temperature range.
The reasons for using synthetic is the belief that synthetic is a superior quality of oil. This is both true and false. Synthetics are man-made using chemistry based on esters. It is designed to have excellent viscosity consistency rating throughout a temperature range without additives. This is the primary reason why synthetics are considered superior. Additionally, some believe there are no additives in it that can cook and leave residues inside the oil system of an engine.
We are also told that if you use Synthetics, you can double or triple the period until the next oil change. This is true to an extent.
The problem is the lack of shear and its fantastic smoothness can be a problem. Engines that have been overhauled or had new parts installed need to be "broken in". This is a process of allowing the internal parts of the engine to wear down a tiny amount at lower engine speeds so as to function smoothly. Synthetics are so fantastic that this does not happen so well and can lead to excessive wear and tear at certain areas.
Idemitsu has a synthetic oil that was used in the Le Man 787 racer. When the engine was broken down after the race, it was found to have literally no wear and tear and in excellent condition. I have to point out that the 787 engine parts were machined and balanced to micro-meters of tolerance. This is an excellent situation for fully synthetic oil. None of that is ever done to a standard sports car.
That said, do use synthetic oil if you can afford it. But the point of mineral oil is so you can change it often. Observing the quality of the waste oil can give you clues as the health of your engine.
Semi-Synthetic is a mineral + synthetic formula. The synthetic portion is 30% or less of the total. This makes it cheaper than fully synthetic while providing an equivalent performance. Again, do use semi-synthetic if you can afford it.
However, if you put your car on a dyno, I sincerely doubt you will find any significant power improvement between synthetic and mineral.
NOTE: do NOT switch from synthetic back to mineral. You CAN switch from mineral to synthetic. You CAN switch back to mineral after a rebuild and then change to synthetic.
The reason for this is the additives in mineral oil do not sit well with synthetic. Semi-synthetics are specially formulated to prevent this, but its not the same as mixing a can of synthetic with a bottle of mineral.
Last edited:
- Feb 16, 2007
- 323
- 60
- 1,528
INFO: Year 99-02 (16 Bit) FD3S ECU Pinouts and Solenoid System Black Box Guide
-- By ipohboy
Attached ZIP file
Original Thread
-- By ipohboy
Attached ZIP file
Original Thread
Many thanks to ipohboy for this information. It is so important that it should be stickied.Maybe I should explain a bit about these files. I attach it using .zip file and you can open it using either winzip or winrar software ( should be included in windows.).
There are 2 files in it. One file in MS excel format is for the ecu pinouts looking at the ecu side. (it is not the fuse box savahn). Anyway , the '99 through '02 use 3 connectors each has 34,22,& 28 pins with one connectors left blank. I think maybe Mazda want to save cost last time and use similar ecu socket layout like one of the toyota's (forget which model) that has the same connectors and number of pins in each connectors (It's a Denso product anyway).
There are some pins left with (-) because they are not in use or maybe it's extra for an automatic fd3s.
Take note on the pin 4P (from the 34 pins connectors) , I wrote "96-98 (heat warning light) 99- (-)" which means it used to be a pin for exhaust heat warning light for the '96-'98 model, but '99 model doesn't have this item anymore.
The second files is in .doc format. First page I described the function of all the solenoids attached to the blackbox.
Note: If you're searching for the other turbo control solenoid (2 of 2), it is attached to the ACV
at the lower intake manifold. You can see it on the last page on the full 93'-95' vacuum diagram.
For the other 2 pages, I numbered all the nipples on the blackbox and matched them to the other end of the nipples on the earlier model vacuum diagram. So that it will be easier for all to identify which vac hoses connect to which ends.
I think that's all.
Have a question for pros out there,
RX8 1.3A Type E 2004, running 120KM with <3000RPM at 4th gear, is that normal? BTW is there 5th gear? :O
RX8 1.3A Type E 2004, running 120KM with <3000RPM at 4th gear, is that normal? BTW is there 5th gear? :O
visit a fd3s, when turbo boost seems to no power, even worst than b18c vtec, after test drive engine leaking, anybody tell what can do when the 13B-rew is status like this?
some vacuum hose leak.... or popped off. the 2nd turbine doesn't come in...or a major leak in the intercooler hose.
And the boys from the states will tell everyone that its piss water they're putting into their high performance cars
Cheers.
In USA, they use AKI and not RON.
According to Gasoline - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:
In the US, octane ratings in unleaded fuels can vary between 86-87 AKI (91-92 RON) for regular, through 89-90 AKI (94-95 RON)
Btw, alot of people when see the following photo of the fuel octane rating of a gas pump in USA thinks it's in RON. It's actually AKI
Last edited:
thks for reply, they said put too much engine oil wor~ are u trust the salesman? how come when boost feeled no power? (estimate feeling it as 200~220hp only)
- Feb 16, 2007
- 323
- 60
- 1,528
Alchemis,
i would like to thanks for this good info for a newbie like me..
after read all info kinda make me little bit aware about it.
could you suggest the suitable viscosity for MazdaSpeed RX8.
at the moment the car used the Idemitsu 5W-40 as per recommended by mechanic.
after revving approximately 9K RPM for short moment & short distance (10km approx.)
next morning the exhaust fume kind give some weird smell.
kinda burning fumes & strong. giving un-pleasant feeling.
fyi, the car for weekend ride...
i intend to service & check for the possible source of the problem or it is normal for rotary engine?
there is a suggestion to try/use the Motul 300V Power 5W-40.
hopefully any RE expert/knowledgeable could guide me...
thanks in advance.
i would like to thanks for this good info for a newbie like me..
after read all info kinda make me little bit aware about it.
could you suggest the suitable viscosity for MazdaSpeed RX8.
at the moment the car used the Idemitsu 5W-40 as per recommended by mechanic.
after revving approximately 9K RPM for short moment & short distance (10km approx.)
next morning the exhaust fume kind give some weird smell.
kinda burning fumes & strong. giving un-pleasant feeling.
fyi, the car for weekend ride...
i intend to service & check for the possible source of the problem or it is normal for rotary engine?
there is a suggestion to try/use the Motul 300V Power 5W-40.
hopefully any RE expert/knowledgeable could guide me...
thanks in advance.
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