Yup, cost has exceeded mkt value, but recently I took my mum (who hasnt been in the car for years) to run some errands around Klang Valley in the car and she was really impressed on how the car still worked so well. Really made all the hours spent researching and money spent worthwhile.Meter can be changed by section..meaning just change the temp+fuel gauge section. Last time i change wira 1.5 auto speedometer only..however parts shop only carry original part so it will cost a bit.
The famous boot leak is most of the time will be the rear lights gasket...the material harden over time. I just apply a layer of the grey gasket maker.
The cost of restoring will exceed the car value but one cant put a value on something done out of passion.
Can recommend me the guy in FB for the meter? My Wira is Sedan.for speedometer there is this guy in FB can fix. I'm yet to send mine to fix my trip meter because he is in Klang.
Your Wira is Sedan or Aeroback? A sedan boot you can get around RM150 used (I just bought one). Make sure not rusty and no pimple before buying. Find those that come with the rubber cover at the brake light. Without that piece of rubber water will start leaking in.
Thanks for the welcome! Surprisingly there's none, had to scour Facebook Wira groups and ask around for the meter.2. Sounds like a fuel meter problem. You should be able to source new on Lazada quite cheaply.
4. Check and replace all the rubber seals, your tail lights and check the water seals are hardened or not. If yes replace. Quite easy job also.
welcome to the club
Actually just a small paint crack and can see the rust stain flowing out. But about 4 years ago the guy who spray painted the car told my parents that the roof is rusted already. From outside, no signs of rust... so how can I confirm this? Will provide pics tomorrow.roof cutting can be a nightmare... I also scare... luckily mine still ok.
depends on how bad... any pictures? seen some terrible condition ones still able to safe. but not sure how long it will last.
Already got a quote, new roof, new boot + grind and spray the door (no new door) is about 1.7k. I think I'll post some pics here and get the opinions of sifus here before I decide what to do.It sounds like the needle in your meter. Dont think it has anything to do with the float in the fuel tank
Boot leak is either the rubber seal or one of the rear lamps has a leak.
Before you proceed any further, go halfcut or mudguard shop to get a quote for fixing the doors, roof and boot. It wont be cheap. That's why I ask to get quote. Then only you decide if it's wise to proceed
Have to access from inside the trunk. Disconnect the wiring harness, remove a few 10mm bolt then u just remove the whole rear light cluster. For the first time it mighy be kinda hard as the seal is stuck to the body.Thanks for the comments sifus
Yup, cost has exceeded mkt value, but recently I took my mum (who hasnt been in the car for years) to run some errands around Klang Valley in the car and she was really impressed on how the car still worked so well. Really made all the hours spent researching and money spent worthwhile.
Err, which is the rear lights gasket? Is it accessible outside or inside?
Most likely yes. Need to ask around though. Why not just get it cheaper off lazada/shoppeethe tail lights & ref light seals can get from spare part shop ah? my rubber seal oso need change. haha
Err, which is the rear lights gasket? Is it accessible outside or inside?
Search proper channels la. I didn't need to search very hard to find.Thanks for the welcome! Surprisingly there's none, had to scour Facebook Wira groups and ask around for the meter.
That's not too bad a price but did you ask how is he going to replace the roof? I'm surprised it's that cheap considering he has to drill out the spot welds on the roof, align the new roof and weld-on all the bits. I hope he's not the type to just cut off the A-pillar side and weld on the new roof to the A-pillar.Already got a quote, new roof, new boot + grind and spray the door (no new door) is about 1.7k. I think I'll post some pics here and get the opinions of sifus here before I decide what to do.
Walaowei u guys, fix wira damn gao. Have u guys ever thought of 'upgrading' it to a slightly newer car like Persona? Basically same under pinnings as Wiras/Gen2/Waja.
Do you have a clearer pic?Wira update
The car have done top overhaul.
Now the car run very nice and smooth.
Since the car had open the head.
I have also chg the timing set since I don't know when is the last time the ex owner had changed.
The boss told me that after a month go back to him and he will adjust the tappet agn.
Welcome, I am also a newbie here. Still learning because this is the 1st time owning a old wira. HahahahaWow. Couldn't believe my eyes when I came across this thread. Read everything from start to finish, really happy that there is still active and passionate Wira owners around!! Learned a lot from the sifus in this thread as well, thanks. Gonna just share my story below, something like OP's journey as well.
I am currently in the process of repairing and restoring my family's 1996 Wira 1.5 (A) - carburetor, started around same time as OP as well, Oct 2019. It used the family car but had been neglected by my parents for many years since they bought a newer car. Many childhood memories of it. After some research and poking around on the Internet, I thought that it would be a very interesting and meaningful experience if I tried to restore the family's Wira. Probably can learn a lot about cars as well, even if I am sending it to mechanics to repair and not DIY. Before I started my journey, I actually had zero knowledge about cars, how to maintain it, etc.
For context, the car was still running and driven few times a week. Hasn't been serviced regularly for the past 10 years, for me it was a miracle that the car actually runs at all. However, the car was leaking engine oil and ATF every night. The engine oil leak would be worse IF car was driven on the highway the day before. Power steering pump was leaking as well, so the steering was getting tighter day by day. A/C was not cold. Suspension nonexistent.
Have been repairing the car bit by bit, starting with the power steering pump. Then the A/C system. Then all the belts + water pump + oil seal. It was a relief after that because now there was no ATF leaks. Next to be repaired was the head gasket, oil cover. No more engine oil stains in the porch now. Mechanic also told me he adjusted my valves. Engine was now quieter and sounded smoother.
Took a short break for my wallet's sake. Then continued with the front suspension system (absorber, lower arm, tie rod end, etc), + fresh front tyres. I couldnt believe the improvement when I drove it for the first time after the front suspension system was changed. Going over a speed bump felt so much better and the handling felt "tighter". Mechanic who sat beside me smiled when I told him all these as I was driving.
Then took another longer break, and changed the rear suspension system (absorber, lower arm, etc). Again, car felt so much better and I began to actually enjoy and trust the car more. This was before CNY.
Then the problems began. I started hearing a scraping sound ONLY when moving and my steering wheel is turned to the max. Normal turns are ok, but it is most obvious when I have to exit a parking spot or when doing u-turn. Was quite busy so I ignored it. Then MCO came. By June, I was passing by my regular mechanic (Mechanic 1) and to my horror it was closed down for good.
Went to another mechanic (Mechanic 2), and the foreman initially told me it was the daun pisang (wheelwell liner). Changed that but problem still persisted. Since it was 90 bucks ok la, I let it slip. Then he said it probably is the bearing issue. My brake discs were also warped already (this one ok la, cos I know they havent been changed for many years). Spent about 450 for new brake discs +pads. But to my shock the sound stil remained, even louder. Actually I was stupid also, should have went to another mechanic there and then. I did some research online and ok la, so far what I changed seemed in line with the usual problems. Maybe I was just unlucky that the mechanic was not experienced enuf to diagnose right away. Then this mechanic told me to try changing bearing (FOC if sound remains). Changed it, scraping sound was gone BUT only on one side. Anyway by this time I already spend like 550 , then plus another 140 on the bearing. He told me to change the left wheel bearing another time. My wallet was crying by this time and I was quite angry. Money is one thing, but the time spent. If expensive but can fix then it is still ok. But this
Had a strong suspicion that this mechanic was cheating but I still don't know what he cheated me. Not sure if anyone here watches Chris Wee's videos, but I went to one of the mechanics (Mechanic 3) that he goes to. Thinking was that if a car guy can trust this mechanic, then I should be safe-r going to the same mechanic also. Personally I dont really like not knowing what's wrong with my car so I braced myself for the cost. The mechanic took 1 hour in total to diagnose it. Took out tyres several times, went on several test drives to see where is the cause.
In the end it was the front lower arm that was actually pushing the front brake dust guard against my disc brake that was causing the scraping noise. The mechanic said that the OEM lower arm I used is still correct but the end part was jutting out too much. He hammered the lower arm to bend the metal a bit, then we reinstalled the wheels and went for test drive. Problem solved. Mechanic said it was first time he encountered this problem. Cost: RM45 for labour only. Felt so happy after that but also deflated cos I spent so much earlier. Told myself that this is the mechanic that I will go to next time, even if it is far for me.
Currently there's only a few more major problems to be fixed. Minor ones are just cosmetics.
1) Reverse light. Mechanic said it is a wiring issue to be fixed
2) Fuel gauge bouncing when I accelerate hard or when braking hard. It is either shows full or empty. So in a way I have to use untill less than half of the fuel left, then only the needle will point down towards empty. The bouncing is more like rapid flicking. Mechanic said it is fuel gauge problem, anyone faced this problem before?
3) Rusty front door + boot + roof. Bodywork shop say best to change to new one. Any thoughts?
4) Leaky boot when raining. I have removed the bootliner recently, it was so damp from all the rain. Not even sure if my boot has actually been dry at all over the years. Fortunately the rust is not to bad.
That's my journey so far. Really enjoying the car now and I think once I fixed the fuel gauge I will be more confident to take the car to a long trip, e.g. Melaka or Ipoh.
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