Rm8k Wira ownership experience-A long way to go

Izso

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Izso

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Mar 28, 2004
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800 is expensive guys? Whats the price like these days for top overhaul for a SOHC? I thought 800 was pretty ok. Unless I've been overpaying all this while.........dammit
 

sanekit

1,500 RPM

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
1,611
156
163
Petaling Jaya
800 is expensive guys? Whats the price like these days for top overhaul for a SOHC? I thought 800 was pretty ok. Unless I've been overpaying all this while.........dammit
i already mentioned there. the price if replace all valves, seals, top gasket is around RM1k-1.2k. that was for my 93 sohc. for 4g15 12 valves i dont know how much. but should be cheaper la.
 

gunnerzz

1,500 RPM

gunnerzz

1,500 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
1,900
608
713
35
Melaka
800 is expensive guys? Whats the price like these days for top overhaul for a SOHC? I thought 800 was pretty ok. Unless I've been overpaying all this while.........dammit
An exhaust valve priced between 20-30 a piece, head gasket can get as cheap as 20 and as high as 200. Gasket set is much cheaper than buying a branded head gasket...maybe can get as low as 90.

So RM190+RM120 = RM 310 for parts.
If the balance includes some other parts such as water pump, timing belt, labor...might be not as expensive.

Then again, i might DIY if its my car thus i wont encounter the 'loss time' where a car is parked in my workshop and i had to finish repairing it before i can get to another job.
 

thomaspepper

Junior Member

thomaspepper

Junior Member
Jul 30, 2020
8
5
3
Kuala Lumpur
Wow. Couldn't believe my eyes when I came across this thread. Read everything from start to finish, really happy that there is still active and passionate Wira owners around!! Learned a lot from the sifus in this thread as well, thanks. Gonna just share my story below, something like OP's journey as well.

I am currently in the process of repairing and restoring my family's 1996 Wira 1.5 (A) - carburetor, started around same time as OP as well, Oct 2019. It used the family car but had been neglected by my parents for many years since they bought a newer car. Many childhood memories of it. After some research and poking around on the Internet, I thought that it would be a very interesting and meaningful experience if I tried to restore the family's Wira. Probably can learn a lot about cars as well, even if I am sending it to mechanics to repair and not DIY. Before I started my journey, I actually had zero knowledge about cars, how to maintain it, etc.

For context, the car was still running and driven few times a week. Hasn't been serviced regularly for the past 10 years, for me it was a miracle that the car actually runs at all. However, the car was leaking engine oil and ATF every night. The engine oil leak would be worse IF car was driven on the highway the day before. Power steering pump was leaking as well, so the steering was getting tighter day by day. A/C was not cold. Suspension nonexistent.

Have been repairing the car bit by bit, starting with the power steering pump. Then the A/C system. Then all the belts + water pump + oil seal. It was a relief after that because now there was no ATF leaks. Next to be repaired was the head gasket, oil cover. No more engine oil stains in the porch now. Mechanic also told me he adjusted my valves. Engine was now quieter and sounded smoother.

Took a short break for my wallet's sake. Then continued with the front suspension system (absorber, lower arm, tie rod end, etc), + fresh front tyres. I couldnt believe the improvement when I drove it for the first time after the front suspension system was changed. Going over a speed bump felt so much better and the handling felt "tighter". Mechanic who sat beside me smiled when I told him all these as I was driving.

Then took another longer break, and changed the rear suspension system (absorber, lower arm, etc). Again, car felt so much better and I began to actually enjoy and trust the car more. This was before CNY.

Then the problems began. I started hearing a scraping sound ONLY when moving and my steering wheel is turned to the max. Normal turns are ok, but it is most obvious when I have to exit a parking spot or when doing u-turn. Was quite busy so I ignored it. Then MCO came. By June, I was passing by my regular mechanic (Mechanic 1) and to my horror it was closed down for good.

Went to another mechanic (Mechanic 2), and the foreman initially told me it was the daun pisang (wheelwell liner). Changed that but problem still persisted. Since it was 90 bucks ok la, I let it slip. Then he said it probably is the bearing issue. My brake discs were also warped already (this one ok la, cos I know they havent been changed for many years). Spent about 450 for new brake discs +pads. But to my shock the sound stil remained, even louder. Actually I was stupid also, should have went to another mechanic there and then. I did some research online and ok la, so far what I changed seemed in line with the usual problems. Maybe I was just unlucky that the mechanic was not experienced enuf to diagnose right away. Then this mechanic told me to try changing bearing (FOC if sound remains). Changed it, scraping sound was gone BUT only on one side. Anyway by this time I already spend like 550 , then plus another 140 on the bearing. He told me to change the left wheel bearing another time. My wallet was crying by this time and I was quite angry. Money is one thing, but the time spent. If expensive but can fix then it is still ok. But this

Had a strong suspicion that this mechanic was cheating but I still don't know what he cheated me. Not sure if anyone here watches Chris Wee's videos, but I went to one of the mechanics (Mechanic 3) that he goes to. Thinking was that if a car guy can trust this mechanic, then I should be safe-r going to the same mechanic also. Personally I dont really like not knowing what's wrong with my car so I braced myself for the cost. The mechanic took 1 hour in total to diagnose it. Took out tyres several times, went on several test drives to see where is the cause.

In the end it was the front lower arm that was actually pushing the front brake dust guard against my disc brake that was causing the scraping noise. The mechanic said that the OEM lower arm I used is still correct but the end part was jutting out too much. He hammered the lower arm to bend the metal a bit, then we reinstalled the wheels and went for test drive. Problem solved. Mechanic said it was first time he encountered this problem. Cost: RM45 for labour only. Felt so happy after that but also deflated cos I spent so much earlier. Told myself that this is the mechanic that I will go to next time, even if it is far for me.

Currently there's only a few more major problems to be fixed. Minor ones are just cosmetics.

1) Reverse light. Mechanic said it is a wiring issue to be fixed
2) Fuel gauge bouncing when I accelerate hard or when braking hard. It is either shows full or empty. So in a way I have to use untill less than half of the fuel left, then only the needle will point down towards empty. The bouncing is more like rapid flicking. Mechanic said it is fuel gauge problem, anyone faced this problem before?
3) Rusty front door + boot + roof. Bodywork shop say best to change to new one. Any thoughts?

4) Leaky boot when raining. I have removed the bootliner recently, it was so damp from all the rain. Not even sure if my boot has actually been dry at all over the years. Fortunately the rust is not to bad.

That's my journey so far. Really enjoying the car now and I think once I fixed the fuel gauge I will be more confident to take the car to a long trip, e.g. Melaka or Ipoh.

Edit: spelling
 

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Sep 30, 2011
1,394
167
663
PJ
welcome, theres quite a few wira kaki lurking round herebouts.

ur rusty boot/door/roof... replacement thats the solution
 

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Apr 30, 2012
1,317
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663
Kuala Lumpur
2) Fuel gauge bouncing when I accelerate hard or when braking hard. It is either shows full or empty. So in a way I have to use untill less than half of the fuel left, then only the needle will point down towards empty. The bouncing is more like rapid flicking. Mechanic said it is fuel gauge problem, anyone faced this problem before?
It sounds like the needle in your meter. Dont think it has anything to do with the float in the fuel tank

3) Rusty front door + boot + roof. Bodywork shop say best to change to new one. Any thoughts?

4) Leaky boot when raining. I have removed the bootliner recently, it was so damp from all the rain. Not even sure if my boot has actually been dry at all over the years. Fortunately the rust is not to bad.
Boot leak is either the rubber seal or one of the rear lamps has a leak.

Before you proceed any further, go halfcut or mudguard shop to get a quote for fixing the doors, roof and boot. It wont be cheap. That's why I ask to get quote. Then only you decide if it's wise to proceed
 

gunnerzz

1,500 RPM

gunnerzz

1,500 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
1,900
608
713
35
Melaka
It sounds like the needle in your meter. Dont think it has anything to do with the float in the fuel tank

Boot leak is either the rubber seal or one of the rear lamps has a leak.

Before you proceed any further, go halfcut or mudguard shop to get a quote for fixing the doors, roof and boot. It wont be cheap. That's why I ask to get quote. Then only you decide if it's wise to proceed
Meter can be changed by section..meaning just change the temp+fuel gauge section. Last time i change wira 1.5 auto speedometer only..however parts shop only carry original part so it will cost a bit.

The famous boot leak is most of the time will be the rear lights gasket...the material harden over time. I just apply a layer of the grey gasket maker.

The cost of restoring will exceed the car value but one cant put a value on something done out of passion.
 
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minibeany

Known Member

minibeany

Known Member
Apr 30, 2017
401
46
28
Kuala Lumpur
Wow. Couldn't believe my eyes when I came across this thread. Read everything from start to finish, really happy that there is still active and passionate Wira owners around!! Learned a lot from the sifus in this thread as well, thanks. Gonna just share my story below, something like OP's journey as well.

I am currently in the process of repairing and restoring my family's 1996 Wira 1.5 (A) - carburetor, started around same time as OP as well, Oct 2019. It used the family car but had been neglected by my parents for many years since they bought a newer car. Many childhood memories of it. After some research and poking around on the Internet, I thought that it would be a very interesting and meaningful experience if I tried to restore the family's Wira. Probably can learn a lot about cars as well, even if I am sending it to mechanics to repair and not DIY. Before I started my journey, I actually had zero knowledge about cars, how to maintain it, etc.

For context, the car was still running and driven few times a week. Hasn't been serviced regularly for the past 10 years, for me it was a miracle that the car actually runs at all. However, the car was leaking engine oil and ATF every night. The engine oil leak would be worse IF car was driven on the highway the day before. Power steering pump was leaking as well, so the steering was getting tighter day by day. A/C was not cold. Suspension nonexistent.

Have been repairing the car bit by bit, starting with the power steering pump. Then the A/C system. Then all the belts + water pump + oil seal. It was a relief after that because now there was no ATF leaks. Next to be repaired was the head gasket, oil cover. No more engine oil stains in the porch now. Mechanic also told me he adjusted my valves. Engine was now quieter and sounded smoother.

Took a short break for my wallet's sake. Then continued with the front suspension system (absorber, lower arm, tie rod end, etc), + fresh front tyres. I couldnt believe the improvement when I drove it for the first time after the front suspension system was changed. Going over a speed bump felt so much better and the handling felt "tighter". Mechanic who sat beside me smiled when I told him all these as I was driving.

Then took another longer break, and changed the rear suspension system (absorber, lower arm, etc). Again, car felt so much better and I began to actually enjoy and trust the car more. This was before CNY.

Then the problems began. I started hearing a scraping sound ONLY when moving and my steering wheel is turned to the max. Normal turns are ok, but it is most obvious when I have to exit a parking spot or when doing u-turn. Was quite busy so I ignored it. Then MCO came. By June, I was passing by my regular mechanic (Mechanic 1) and to my horror it was closed down for good.

Went to another mechanic (Mechanic 2), and the foreman initially told me it was the daun pisang (wheelwell liner). Changed that but problem still persisted. Since it was 90 bucks ok la, I let it slip. Then he said it probably is the bearing issue. My brake discs were also warped already (this one ok la, cos I know they havent been changed for many years). Spent about 450 for new brake discs +pads. But to my shock the sound stil remained, even louder. Actually I was stupid also, should have went to another mechanic there and then. I did some research online and ok la, so far what I changed seemed in line with the usual problems. Maybe I was just unlucky that the mechanic was not experienced enuf to diagnose right away. Then this mechanic told me to try changing bearing (FOC if sound remains). Changed it, scraping sound was gone BUT only on one side. Anyway by this time I already spend like 550 , then plus another 140 on the bearing. He told me to change the left wheel bearing another time. My wallet was crying by this time and I was quite angry. Money is one thing, but the time spent. If expensive but can fix then it is still ok. But this

Had a strong suspicion that this mechanic was cheating but I still don't know what he cheated me. Not sure if anyone here watches Chris Wee's videos, but I went to one of the mechanics (Mechanic 3) that he goes to. Thinking was that if a car guy can trust this mechanic, then I should be safe-r going to the same mechanic also. Personally I dont really like not knowing what's wrong with my car so I braced myself for the cost. The mechanic took 1 hour in total to diagnose it. Took out tyres several times, went on several test drives to see where is the cause.

In the end it was the front lower arm that was actually pushing the front brake dust guard against my disc brake that was causing the scraping noise. The mechanic said that the OEM lower arm I used is still correct but the end part was jutting out too much. He hammered the lower arm to bend the metal a bit, then we reinstalled the wheels and went for test drive. Problem solved. Mechanic said it was first time he encountered this problem. Cost: RM45 for labour only. Felt so happy after that but also deflated cos I spent so much earlier. Told myself that this is the mechanic that I will go to next time, even if it is far for me.

Currently there's only a few more major problems to be fixed. Minor ones are just cosmetics.

1) Reverse light. Mechanic said it is a wiring issue to be fixed
2) Fuel gauge bouncing when I accelerate hard or when braking hard. It is either shows full or empty. So in a way I have to use untill less than half of the fuel left, then only the needle will point down towards empty. The bouncing is more like rapid flicking. Mechanic said it is fuel gauge problem, anyone faced this problem before?
3) Rusty front door + boot + roof. Bodywork shop say best to change to new one. Any thoughts?

4) Leaky boot when raining. I have removed the bootliner recently, it was so damp from all the rain. Not even sure if my boot has actually been dry at all over the years. Fortunately the rust is not to bad.

That's my journey so far. Really enjoying the car now and I think once I fixed the fuel gauge I will be more confident to take the car to a long trip, e.g. Melaka or Ipoh.

Edit: spelling
for speedometer there is this guy in FB can fix. I'm yet to send mine to fix my trip meter because he is in Klang.

Your Wira is Sedan or Aeroback? A sedan boot you can get around RM150 used (I just bought one). Make sure not rusty and no pimple before buying. Find those that come with the rubber cover at the brake light. Without that piece of rubber water will start leaking in.

Doors also easy to find.
 

minibeany

Known Member

minibeany

Known Member
Apr 30, 2017
401
46
28
Kuala Lumpur
It sounds like the needle in your meter. Dont think it has anything to do with the float in the fuel tank

Boot leak is either the rubber seal or one of the rear lamps has a leak.

Before you proceed any further, go halfcut or mudguard shop to get a quote for fixing the doors, roof and boot. It wont be cheap. That's why I ask to get quote. Then only you decide if it's wise to proceed
I did the same... went to get a quote to spray paint my boot and the shop quoted me extra RM300 for removing old putty and resurface before apply new paint. That's why I decided to change with I can get a good condition with half the price. Even now I send to respray the mudguard shop will not charge that extra RM300.
 

Izso

Boooooossst
Helmet Clan
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Izso

Boooooossst
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
14,978
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5,213
KL
1) Reverse light. Mechanic said it is a wiring issue to be fixed
2) Fuel gauge bouncing when I accelerate hard or when braking hard. It is either shows full or empty. So in a way I have to use untill less than half of the fuel left, then only the needle will point down towards empty. The bouncing is more like rapid flicking. Mechanic said it is fuel gauge problem, anyone faced this problem before?
3) Rusty front door + boot + roof. Bodywork shop say best to change to new one. Any thoughts?
4) Leaky boot when raining. I have removed the bootliner recently, it was so damp from all the rain. Not even sure if my boot has actually been dry at all over the years. Fortunately the rust is not to bad.
1. Easy wiring job la. Pull new wires lor.
2. Sounds like a fuel meter problem. You should be able to source new on Lazada quite cheaply.
3. You should be able to source halfcut doors, boot and replace quite easily. Roof will be a problem - I recommend antirust treatment rather than cutting and welding a new one. If done incorrectly it'll be a constant source of nightmares.
4. Check and replace all the rubber seals, your tail lights and check the water seals are hardened or not. If yes replace. Quite easy job also.

welcome to the club
 

minibeany

Known Member

minibeany

Known Member
Apr 30, 2017
401
46
28
Kuala Lumpur
1. Easy wiring job la. Pull new wires lor.
2. Sounds like a fuel meter problem. You should be able to source new on Lazada quite cheaply.
3. You should be able to source halfcut doors, boot and replace quite easily. Roof will be a problem - I recommend antirust treatment rather than cutting and welding a new one. If done incorrectly it'll be a constant source of nightmares.
4. Check and replace all the rubber seals, your tail lights and check the water seals are hardened or not. If yes replace. Quite easy job also.

welcome to the club
roof cutting can be a nightmare... I also scare... luckily mine still ok.

depends on how bad... any pictures? seen some terrible condition ones still able to safe. but not sure how long it will last.
 
Last edited:

sanekit

1,500 RPM

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
1,611
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163
Petaling Jaya
4. Check and replace all the rubber seals, your tail lights and check the water seals are hardened or not. If yes replace. Quite easy job also.

welcome to the club
the tail lights & ref light seals can get from spare part shop ah? my rubber seal oso need change. haha
 

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
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vr2turbo

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roof cutting can be a nightmare... I also scare... luckily mine still ok.
I used to own a wira too. Did not cut the roof, but my spray painter grind until bare metal, both from the top and from inside. Remove the old glue, replace new glue, anti rust, spray base coat and then color spray. After all that work the rust pop out again after around 7 months....lol
Later sold the car.... :smokin: