Rm8k Wira ownership experience-A long way to go

leinnz

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leinnz

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Sure bo?hahahahaaha
My fren kena his motor need to chg back to stock and go inspection lagi.hahahahhaaha
After raya then I might installback
no more summons on exhaust for now.
 
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KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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Wira update.

Is quite some time I didn't update anything about my car.
No update=No problem hahahahahahahhahahahahahah

One day my car cannot start i tot was my battery kong but I juz change on last November
So after jump start my car and bring my car to check,is not my battery problem is my alternator issue charging is quite slow. Mechanic say when open aircond and light the charging volt should be around 13.5v or above.
Mine is 12.1~5 like that.

So today I go and get a new one Rm198 recond is rm160 I better get new better.
The brand is Gvolt made in Malaysia lagi. Support Malaysia product . hahahahahaha
 

parakey

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parakey

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Wira update.

Is quite some time I didn't update anything about my car.
No update=No problem hahahahahahahhahahahahahah

One day my car cannot start i tot was my battery kong but I juz change on last November
So after jump start my car and bring my car to check,is not my battery problem is my alternator issue charging is quite slow. Mechanic say when open aircond and light the charging volt should be around 13.5v or above.
Mine is 12.1~5 like that.

So today I go and get a new one Rm198 recond is rm160 I better get new better.
The brand is Gvolt made in Malaysia lagi. Support Malaysia product . hahahahahaha
Do you use your car a lot? Seems like after buying it, many things breaks down
 

KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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Do you use your car a lot? Seems like after buying it, many things breaks down
I always drive for work. 1 month drove around 1k~1.2k km
Yes,the car breakdown alot when I bought it. But now juz only those old thing that broke down only.

Instead fixing I felt like I was restoring the car to new. Hahahahahahaha
If I list out this thing I had change it really is “restoring” instead of “repairing”
Hahahahahhaha
 

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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If u are nearby segambut, can go try those big spare parts shop like New Hoong Fatt, they sell damn cheap. Sorry small spare part shops.
Anyways, pls buy branded ones la. APM etc if u want hassle free and long term usage.

Either reconds selling too expensive or new is subpar
Ya man, should be 300++ for ori wira
 
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KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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can get, just dont expect it to be cheap
Are these the market price?
Is quite similar to a gsr ck swap waja price.
But I am more towards to na since I like rev while no one is on the road.
Hehehehehehehe
 

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brokenjars

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brokenjars

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Are these the market price?
Is quite similar to a gsr ck swap waja price.
But I am more towards to na since I like rev while no one is on the road.
Hehehehehehehe
Yeah for honda b16a eg its around 13k. Ek slightly higher. Get the b16b type r engine if going for 1.6L or the b18cr for the 1.8L. these will be around 18k.

Or u can be like me, get the nissan VVL engine instead in a nissan sentra. U can get sr20ve for around 10k in a sentra b13. Car not so sporty, but the VVL power is comparable to VTEC. Torque for bottom power band also there. Also less after market parts la but u save 8k initially.
 

KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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Yeah for honda b16a eg its around 13k. Ek slightly higher. Get the b16b type r engine if going for 1.6L or the b18cr for the 1.8L. these will be around 18k.

Or u can be like me, get the nissan VVL engine instead in a nissan sentra. U can get sr20ve for around 10k in a sentra b13. Car not so sporty, but the VVL power is comparable to VTEC. Torque for bottom power band also there. Also less after market parts la but u save 8k initially.
Thx for the advice but I am more towards honda (half honda guy ever since I purchased my jazz) hahahhahahaha
bcoz mostly If I ever change thr car will be use for work so after spare part is more important to me. And also kena poison by Vtec kick in yo~hahahahhaha
saw another one B20B this is from 1st gen crv right?
 

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gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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I also not sure. The seller say got 3month warranty onli.
See how long he can tahan. Hahahahahah
Its refurb but as good as new.
Frm my exp, last time i bought a refurb alternator for my pajero (Victron) and get more month in term of warranty than buying original alternator for my waja (ori Valeo). The shop give 3 month for the Victron but only 1 month for the original brand new Valeo. This is from spare part shop. I have claim one time for the refurb unit (very2 long time ago) and its still fine till today.

how much for the Pajero 55A alternator?
about 150-200. I think its the same as old saga.
For the Waja 90A?
either 600 or 800...it was very long time ago.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Thx for the advice but I am more towards honda (half honda guy ever since I purchased my jazz) hahahhahahaha
bcoz mostly If I ever change thr car will be use for work so after spare part is more important to me. And also kena poison by Vtec kick in yo~hahahahhaha
saw another one B20B this is from 1st gen crv right?
I was Hnoda kaki also for many years. My 2nd car was 1st Gen Civic, then 1st Gen 3 door Accord, the 3rd Gen Accord and would have been 5th Gen Accord but prices was too high so switch to Mitsu then swap myVR4 in and have kept it for 21 years already.......lol
 

minibeany

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minibeany

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I was Hnoda kaki also for many years. My 2nd car was 1st Gen Civic, then 1st Gen 3 door Accord, the 3rd Gen Accord and would have been 5th Gen Accord but prices was too high so switch to Mitsu then swap myVR4 in and have kept it for 21 years already.......lol
that tell your age.... hahaha...
 

KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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Wira update

After changing the alternator everything is fine.
The 2nd day I go to shop to pick up suddenly the car can't start. Even can't use the control.
After checking is my double din player causing the electric to leak.
He say everything thing is ok,but when the double din is plug in thr voltage is 0.25 something. Is that bad?

After unplug all the wire from the double din the car went fine.

I think is time to get a Android player?
Hahahahahahahaa
 

parakey

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parakey

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Wira update

After changing the alternator everything is fine.
The 2nd day I go to shop to pick up suddenly the car can't start. Even can't use the control.
After checking is my double din player causing the electric to leak.
He say everything thing is ok,but when the double din is plug in thr voltage is 0.25 something. Is that bad?

After unplug all the wire from the double din the car went fine.

I think is time to get a Android player?
Hahahahahahahaa
You, my friend have really shit luck
 
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KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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You, my friend have really shit luck
Yup,even the boss is starting to call me sell the car already. He also start pity me.
Hahahahhahahahaha
That why I start asking B16 swap civic.
Auto and manual both
Hahahahhahaah

Although I also are looking for Saga Flx Se1.6 one
 
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gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Yup,even the boss is starting to call me sell the car already. He also start pity me.
Hahahahhahahahaha
That why I start asking B16 swap civic.
Auto and manual both
Hahahahhahaah

Although I also are looking for Saga Flx Se1.6 one
Ah...the forgotten FLX SE.
Its a much better value for money when it was launched, even compared to its 1.3 powered little brother. It got good material 'leather' interior compared to the Myvi 1.5, better fc than Saga 1.3 model and better power to weight ratio (increases in torque is very much needed for the BLM). The bad thing is the CVT whine/drone.
This is very early CVT model which is not refined in term of NVH.

Equipped it with UR rear antiroll bar, front upper strut bar, front lower 4 point bar and decent rubber on the stock 15 inch wheel...then it will handles in a solid manner without sacrificing comfort...except for the cvt whine/drone.
 

KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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Ah...the forgotten FLX SE.
Its a much better value for money when it was launched, even compared to its 1.3 powered little brother. It got good material 'leather' interior compared to the Myvi 1.5, better fc than Saga 1.3 model and better power to weight ratio (increases in torque is very much needed for the BLM). The bad thing is the CVT whine/drone.
This is very early CVT model which is not refined in term of NVH.

Equipped it with UR rear antiroll bar, front upper strut bar, front lower 4 point bar and decent rubber on the stock 15 inch wheel...then it will handles in a solid manner without sacrificing comfort...except for the cvt whine/drone.
Yup,the only saga I interested is this 1.6 cvt
I heard someone say thr cvt can retune to make it more refined don't know is it true or not.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Ah...the forgotten FLX SE.
Its a much better value for money when it was launched, even compared to its 1.3 powered little brother. It got good material 'leather' interior compared to the Myvi 1.5, better fc than Saga 1.3 model and better power to weight ratio (increases in torque is very much needed for the BLM). The bad thing is the CVT whine/drone.
This is very early CVT model which is not refined in term of NVH.

Equipped it with UR rear antiroll bar, front upper strut bar, front lower 4 point bar and decent rubber on the stock 15 inch wheel...then it will handles in a solid manner without sacrificing comfort...except for the cvt whine/drone.
Got MT then nice.......lol
 

leinnz

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leinnz

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Sell, looks like a waste since many things replaced, don't sell, scare other things crop up........hahhahhahaha
you learn alot during the replacement. consider as paying for the learning process. sell the car in order to learn more from new car purchase. keep learning by buying new car, learn how to replace and fixed it and selling the car and repeat again like a cycle
 
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gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Sadly my area very hard to find a manual flx se.
All are CVT unit.
Hahahahahhah
I dont think they produce flx 1.6 in manual.The 'X' in the name denotes it comes with CVT gb to differentiate with normal fl model. Also ,the flx 1.6 only comes in white or red colour.

Proton only produce BLM body with 1.6 manual, that time made to cater taxi drivers but every now and then a used one will pop up for sale. So far i only see them in white. This model is 'empty' in term of spec.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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you learn alot during the replacement. consider as paying for the learning process. sell the car in order to learn more from new car purchase. keep learning by buying new car, learn how to replace and fixed it and selling the car and repeat again like a cycle
In a way, yes. I learn alot too staying and help my mechanic not only with my own car, but many owners usually just drop their cars there for repairs then pick it up when ready.......lol
 
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KHNG940413

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KHNG940413

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you learn alot during the replacement. consider as paying for the learning process. sell the car in order to learn more from new car purchase. keep learning by buying new car, learn how to replace and fixed it and selling the car and repeat again like a cycle
Is like a one way ticket but in return we get experience to share with other.

But.....still need $$$ to flip to a new car also lahh
Hahahahahaha
 

lsm1991

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lsm1991

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Is Repairing a GSR turbo bearing experience?
Crankshaft bearing I mean.
Test drive a friend car hearing the ka ka ka sound like bearing gonna rosak
turbo bearing or crankshaft bearing... x sama tau.
both if fail, sound is the least of your concerns
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Turbo he juz recond
Is the crank shaft bearing
Crank shaft bearing by itself is friendly to the wallet. Crankshaft bearing + if crank journal damaged + while u r at it stuff + overall labour is not that friendly to wallet.

This is how i gauge repair cost;
1.search for the parts price online inclusive of consumables related to it (gasket maker, seals, gasket, oil, fluid )
2.Add some to each parts cost. If minor parts i will add RM50 and below, if major parts will add up to RM200 to RM500 as most workshops will mark up.
3.Add few more hundred for labour.

I did this by comparing older repair bill esp the labor cost and always estimate higher. Easiest way is to ask a rough estimate from workshop. I did the estimation myself because i want to see if its worth it to DIY. If that time my pocket is deep, I will just send to shop and say the magic word 'buat lah, xpe buat pelan2 tak urgent. dah siap nanti call'.
 

lsm1991

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lsm1991

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Crank shaft bearing by itself is friendly to the wallet. Crankshaft bearing + if crank journal damaged + while u r at it stuff + overall labour is not that friendly to wallet.

This is how i gauge repair cost;
1.search for the parts price online inclusive of consumables related to it (gasket maker, seals, gasket, oil, fluid )
2.Add some to each parts cost. If minor parts i will add RM50 and below, if major parts will add up to RM200 to RM500 as most workshops will mark up.
3.Add few more hundred for labour.

I did this by comparing older repair bill esp the labor cost and always estimate higher. Easiest way is to ask a rough estimate from workshop. I did the estimation myself because i want to see if its worth it to DIY. If that time my pocket is deep, I will just send to shop and say the magic word 'buat lah, xpe buat pelan2 tak urgent. dah siap nanti call'.
by time it makes a racket, its not gab be friendly liao.... tbh unless theres an oil pressure gauge, i wouldnt be able to tell that its failing