Rear drums doesn't even slow down the car

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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Guys, I am driving a Proton Persona Elegance.
Do you guys have any idea how to take out the hub?
I probably know how to adjust the drums but don't know to access the internals.
And also would like to clean it.
I have only seen other popular cars.
Not sure about my car myself. Don't dare to touch it if without any experienced guidance.
Thanks.

2003-2007 Honda Accord Brake drums clean and adjust - YouTube
 

D7zul

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D7zul

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I don't dare DIYing my brakes.. Let d pro do it..

Its 4 ur own safety..

U can learn by watching them do it though :biggrin:
 

punk

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punk

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I don't dare DIYing my brakes.. Let d pro do it..

Its 4 ur own safety..

U can learn by watching them do it though :biggrin:
True also, but if he know the things go should be no problem.

No weh. Mine drum. Sad. Can u lock your's?
u mean lock the rear wheel?
i can;t lock it at the moment.
Didnt know can adjust at the drum part also. :rofl:

Before removing the hub, got screw need to remove.
If u cant loosen the screw, u need a screwdriver that can be hammered.

After that jus hammered the hub, it will loosen.

Before that , u need to put in gear 1 first then release the handbrake to avoid the car move forward.
 

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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True also, but if he know the things go should be no problem.



u mean lock the rear wheel?
i can;t lock it at the moment.
Didnt know can adjust at the drum part also. :rofl:

Before removing the hub, got screw need to remove.
If u cant loosen the screw, u need a screwdriver that can be hammered.

After that jus hammered the hub, it will loosen.

Before that , u need to put in gear 1 first then release the handbrake to avoid the car move forward.
Ah. I have an autobox hahaha. Put P.
Okay shall try tomorrow.
 

punk

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punk

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Ah. I have an autobox hahaha. Put P.
Okay shall try tomorrow.
Ya,

1. Loosen Lug nut a bit first. ( Abit only ah )
2. Put in P gear and push the car to the front to be sure it cant move.
3. Release handbrake.
4. Jack up the car and remove wheels.



5. Look at the purple arrow screw.
If u feel hard to remove it, u need an impact screw driver to remove it.
Google it how to use or search in youtube.
Up to u if u want to buy good one or cheap ones.

6. Hammer a bit on the side of the hub.
It should be loose when u hammer up down side left.
If it doesnt loosen means u didnt release the handbrake.:rofl:



7. U want to adjust the black color arrow one ah?:hmmmm:
I should try next month see, No wonder my brake no makan. :banghead:
Make sure no friction between the hub and brake when u install it.
Trial and error like the video u posted.:burnout:
 

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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Ya,

1. Loosen Lug nut a bit first. ( Abit only ah )
2. Put in P gear and push the car to the front to be sure it cant move.
3. Release handbrake.
4. Jack up the car and remove wheels.



5. Look at the purple arrow screw.
If u feel hard to remove it, u need an impact screw driver to remove it.
Google it how to use or search in youtube.
Up to u if u want to buy good one or cheap ones.

6. Hammer a bit on the side of the hub.
It should be loose when u hammer up down side left.
If it doesnt loosen means u didnt release the handbrake.:rofl:



7. U want to adjust the black color arrow one ah?:hmmmm:
I should try next month see, No wonder my brake no makan. :banghead:
Make sure no friction between the hub and brake when u install it.
Trial and error like the video u posted.:burnout:
Oh, what I learnt is drum brakes have some, just some restrictions.
If it doesn't, means the drum shoe worn abit over the time.
Don't forgot to adjust left and right ah.

Are those your pics?
 

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Rear hub removal is a mega pain in the ass. Need a soft impact hammer. Those hard steel ones might dent your hub if you don't know how to knock it. All the years of brake dust caked in will make it hard to remove and make sure you wear a mask. There will be shitloads of brakedust and that's highly toxic.

Adjusting the drums probably won't be necessary. Once you get the hub open do a visual inspection of the hydraulic thingy (I don't know what its called). Mine was leaking back then when I still had drum so it wouldn't bite much because of that. And after 5 years of handbraking, the drum itself was already worn out. So just changing to a new thicker drum brake pad made a world of difference.

Warning though, first timers will take minimally 2 hours to remove the damn drum set and 4 hours putting it back. Everything is really fitting and tight so you'll need a good long nose plier, c-clip remover tool (not necessary if your long nose skills is good) and a good cleaning agent.

Clean of all the dust and brush it super clean before attempting to remove. Easier to see what you're doing that way. And make sure it's dry before removing too.
 

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From my experience, I realised my kelisa brakes wasnt biting much 1 day, gave me a shock a few times where it suppose to brake normally at that distance and this time I had to quickly step more on the brakes to stop. Almost got into accident.

Which is why they said never stop a car too close to another car in front...:banghead: Now I get the reason. Brake power deteriorated.

Went and check, my mini pumps in the drums is not that good anymore, got leakage of brake fluids.
Got it change then now better. Even request the mech to wash the brake drums for me. Clean and nice after that.
 

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Rear hub removal is a mega pain in the ass. Need a soft impact hammer. Those hard steel ones might dent your hub if you don't know how to knock it. All the years of brake dust caked in will make it hard to remove and make sure you wear a mask. There will be shitloads of brakedust and that's highly toxic.

Adjusting the drums probably won't be necessary. Once you get the hub open do a visual inspection of the hydraulic thingy (I don't know what its called). Mine was leaking back then when I still had drum so it wouldn't bite much because of that. And after 5 years of handbraking, the drum itself was already worn out. So just changing to a new thicker drum brake pad made a world of difference.

Warning though, first timers will take minimally 2 hours to remove the damn drum set and 4 hours putting it back. Everything is really fitting and tight so you'll need a good long nose plier, c-clip remover tool (not necessary if your long nose skills is good) and a good cleaning agent.

Clean of all the dust and brush it super clean before attempting to remove. Easier to see what you're doing that way. And make sure it's dry before removing too.
The mini thing (SF call it) or hydraulic thing is the brake cylinder. Usually is the o ring inside the piston that fail or the rubber boot tear up that covers the piston internal. Adjusting is only needed if the linings have become thinner and the no. of click on your hand brake increase. For drum brakes users, your hand brake can roughly tell you how much your rear lining still have...more clicks mean the lining need to move further to come in contact with the hub. Usually 4 to 5 clicks is just nice....if 7 above, you need to check your rear lining for wear and if they are thick but they click is more then just readjust the lining against the hub via the back of the brake assembly.

The hub is made from cast iron so knocking it with a hammer won't dent it but would literally crack it into half or a chunk might just crack and broke away from the main piece. Best way to remove the hub, after removing the 2 philip screw with an impact screw driver, take a bolt that is the same size as the philips screw but with a much longer body drive it into the same hole where the philips screw was....this will force the hub to come out bit by bit until it totally come loose some cars drum will come with an empty bolt hole that's where you stick the bolt in. If you insist on using a hammer. try placing a piece of old rag over the hub. No need to hold the rag just totally cover the hub and slowly start to hammer it in a circular motion....you don't keep hitting the same spot over and over again. This will also make the hub come loose also.

For beginners, it might take a while but for seasoned guys, 10~15 mins can take out already.

If you plan on changing the lining yourself, well taking out the spring and fitting them back will be quite a challenge even for me...you will need some strong arm muscle and need to DIY a spring hook a strong one is a must so that it allow you to remove the 2 springs holding the lining together and then putting the spring back into the small opening on the lining base. This one needs patience to do and I swear you gonna sweat and keep cursing when you try to doing the spring....I know because I've did it....just be careful with the spring as it is very strong and most of the time it will fly quite far if it get loose from the spring removal tool. For safety wear a goggle. I kena my right eye brow before....bengkak and bleeding.

Happy trying...
 

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The mini thing (SF call it) or hydraulic thing is the brake cylinder. Usually is the o ring inside the piston that fail or the rubber boot tear up that covers the piston internal. Adjusting is only needed if the linings have become thinner and the no. of click on your hand brake increase. For drum brakes users, your hand brake can roughly tell you how much your rear lining still have...more clicks mean the lining need to move further to come in contact with the hub. Usually 4 to 5 clicks is just nice....if 7 above, you need to check your rear lining for wear and if they are thick but they click is more then just readjust the lining against the hub via the back of the brake assembly.
Bro. TR, the handbrakes activate the brake lining from one end and the foot braking activates at the mini brake cylinder end. If hand brake click goes higher can also adjust from brake console in the passenger compartment but that one got limit. Best to adjust from mini brake cylinder end to evenly use up the brake lining...
 

TitanRev

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Bro. TR, the handbrakes activate the brake lining from one end and the foot braking activates at the mini brake cylinder end. If hand brake click goes higher can also adjust from brake console in the passenger compartment but that one got limit. Best to adjust from mini brake cylinder end to evenly use up the brake lining...
IINM, the handbrake cable will pull a level at behind the lining base then push the lining at the cylinder there towards the drum. For adjustment from passenger compartment that one is best done if the cable is loose...where you can feel a lot of free play in the handbrake level. For handbrake adjustment best to do at the wheels there....
 

Supra_Fanatics

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The mini thing (SF call it) or hydraulic thing is the brake cylinder. Usually is the o ring inside the piston that fail or the rubber boot tear up that covers the piston internal. Adjusting is only needed if the linings have become thinner and the no. of click on your hand brake increase. For drum brakes users, your hand brake can roughly tell you how much your rear lining still have...more clicks mean the lining need to move further to come in contact with the hub. Usually 4 to 5 clicks is just nice....if 7 above, you need to check your rear lining for wear and if they are thick but they click is more then just readjust the lining against the hub via the back of the brake assembly.

The hub is made from cast iron so knocking it with a hammer won't dent it but would literally crack it into half or a chunk might just crack and broke away from the main piece. Best way to remove the hub, after removing the 2 philip screw with an impact screw driver, take a bolt that is the same size as the philips screw but with a much longer body drive it into the same hole where the philips screw was....this will force the hub to come out bit by bit until it totally come loose some cars drum will come with an empty bolt hole that's where you stick the bolt in. If you insist on using a hammer. try placing a piece of old rag over the hub. No need to hold the rag just totally cover the hub and slowly start to hammer it in a circular motion....you don't keep hitting the same spot over and over again. This will also make the hub come loose also.

For beginners, it might take a while but for seasoned guys, 10~15 mins can take out already.

If you plan on changing the lining yourself, well taking out the spring and fitting them back will be quite a challenge even for me...you will need some strong arm muscle and need to DIY a spring hook a strong one is a must so that it allow you to remove the 2 springs holding the lining together and then putting the spring back into the small opening on the lining base. This one needs patience to do and I swear you gonna sweat and keep cursing when you try to doing the spring....I know because I've did it....just be careful with the spring as it is very strong and most of the time it will fly quite far if it get loose from the spring removal tool. For safety wear a goggle. I kena my right eye brow before....bengkak and bleeding.

Happy trying...
Usually send to the mech, they use hammer to knock the hub for it to come lose...:frown:

IINM, the handbrake cable will pull a level at behind the lining base then push the lining at the cylinder there towards the drum. For adjustment from passenger compartment that one is best done if the cable is loose...where you can feel a lot of free play in the handbrake level. For handbrake adjustment best to do at the wheels there....
Usually if handbrake pull to high, I ask them help me adjust. Now only 2-3 clicks.
 

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it is relatively simple and easy to adjust....

in stock form..drum brakes works better than disc brake (for similar model n size)..didnt believe me? just try your best to do handbrake turn :biggrin:
 

TitanRev

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it is relatively simple and easy to adjust....

in stock form..drum brakes works better than disc brake (for similar model n size)..didnt believe me? just try your best to do handbrake turn :biggrin:
For bikes also same right? especially when raining time the disc rotor on bikes get splashes and wet then cools down...last time I ride with my friend in 125Z during heavy rain very scary one....then he got EX5 brakes seems to bite nice also when rain....
 

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For bikes also same right? especially when raining time the disc rotor on bikes get splashes and wet then cools down...last time I ride with my friend in 125Z during heavy rain very scary one....then he got EX5 brakes seems to bite nice also when rain....
yep.....


the only advantage of disc brake is it can cool down pretty fast (because of open to air flow) and relatively easy to upgrade...with various option of caliper and disc size to choose
 

TitanRev

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yep.....


the only advantage of disc brake is it can cool down pretty fast (because of open to air flow) and relatively easy to upgrade...with various option of caliper and disc size to choose
My time, most ride bike, then all talk bike mod, skim head, change the rear sprocket gear, use open pod also got, punch hole at the muffler end.... then there was a bike shop near my school....the shop got build some race kapchai for Jempol bike drag one....hohoho...crazy bike and all light weight...tire sotong...
 

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My time, most ride bike, then all talk bike mod, skim head, change the rear sprocket gear, use open pod also got, punch hole at the muffler end.... then there was a bike shop near my school....the shop got build some race kapchai for Jempol bike drag one....hohoho...crazy bike and all light weight...tire sotong...
that one crazy ler no rear brake also..but bike capable up to 180km/h in less than 400m....
 

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My uncle use to go see some illegal Kap Chai race before last time. There was this guy who modded his kap chai damn good and seems to be the fastest there.

So once not sure what happened, according to my uncle, is like the bike locked up somehow and he totally flew few meters face 1st and dragged for few meters as well due to the thrown off force. Should be roughly 10 parked cars distance from how he said it.

Seems like he don't even have a face anymore...:afraid: