Latest update for my TE27 drag project for Borneo sprint race 2006

[LevinTE27]

Engine got no touch up at all.. just up boosting to 24psi from 18psi.

new intercooler to cool down for higher boost

New ladder bars drag chasis setup.. remouth chasis frame to get better weight transfer. added two total 70kg flywheel at the back for testing. hmm..
can lauch at 6000rpm now, last year only 4000rpm will get seriuos wheel spin.

http://www.boomspeed.com/levinte27/laopao2.jpg
tuning the rear chasis at the drag track. i had set more preload for the right side rear ladder bar, no more running side way for 6000rpm clutch kick lauching..

 

[shazmee]

yo bro levinTE27, nice car and prep..good luck for coming drag battle..

 

[DeOngster]

what engine ah bro if u dun mind me asking.. .really cool project... really really cool

 

[LevinTE27]

this the engine pic i took 3 years ago before i paint my car..
ermm.. still the same engine , now have upgrade some of the parts only.
haha nothing much...
just a 7AGTE hybrid engine

 

[fordlaser82]

nice car...

 

[madtoy21]

help

Bro..i really need u help to solve my car rear swing problem when lauch...does ur rear chasis ladder improved ur lauching?..bty mine ride celica ta22 with 1jz.
I'll be gratefull if can see more pics of the rear setup...cheers

 

[20vturbo]

call me if u need me for launching practise.hehe

 

[LevinTE27]

Bro..i really need u help to solve my car rear swing problem when lauch...does ur rear chasis ladder improved ur lauching?..bty mine ride celica ta22 with 1jz.
I'll be gratefull if can see more pics of the rear setup...cheers

my car will not running side way anymore after the chasis tuned up. remember long shaft rotation is always anti clock if u view from back of ur car, so when u hold at high rpm clutch kick launch there is alot of force will bring ur car body weight to ur left wheel. to solve tat problem, u need to preload at least 20% of ur body weight to ur driver side. adding weight will cause u lost in horse power, so a pair of drag ladder bars can be tuned to let ur right side axle to lift up the body to get preloading.

the mouth of the ladder bars is important too, all of our street and track chasis always trasfer the weight to ur front wheel when pushing forward. it will help alot of steering control, but for drag is totally different way. adding weight will not help, u need to fully use the axle rotation force to lift up the front chasis for more weight transfer to tyers.
when everything done, is time for testing. try to lauching it with slowly let go the clutch, if u get the grip after car moving forward thats good, but if stay still lauching will get spin too then is time for start adding weight.

i will get more pic to update here after the race, not now. i have to keep some secret cos i had been doing testing and study about drag setup 3 years.
first race , i got seriuos wheel hopping and get 14.7sec in 1/4mile.
2nd race, i tried traction bars. it stop hopping at all but wheel spin at high rev lauching. i run low 14.1sec.
3rd race, i had setup ladder bars , flooding axle and increased my time to 13.2sec.

this year i hope can touch 12sec, i had increased boost and new frame . i added 2 tube bar under my chasis from the ladder bars mouthing to the gear box mouth so i get more solid force pushing car forward. remouth absorber mouthing to new frame to stop the absorber fighting with the ladder bar for twisting different direction. higher fuel tank mouthing to save more weight from chasis but added weight ratio to rear chasis.
any question just ask i will try my best to answer if i understand it.

 

[LevinTE27]

call me if u need me for launching practise.hehe

this sunday i might going track to tune my engine. do u have stop watch? i did time it before it was 12.3sec but in the race is totally different, driver respond from the light will take around 0.5sec.
i need some more power from the engine. i bought a bottel of HKS Drag High Octane booster 2 weeks ago, i feel tat my engine need higher octane fuel now for higher boost due to the longer stroke ratio will cause hotter compression. i dont wan the piston melt.. hahaha

 

[20vturbo]

since ur car already track setup,why not remove all those unnessesary stuff life door trimmings,or even dashboard? can use persplek ba i think price around 90-100+ for one big piece to replace the glass.if can touch 12s this year,u can consider getting Hoosier slicks man.try to get 11s for next year..almost "nearly totally" DIY drag car for everyone who didn't know this guy project..hehe

 

[SKY999]

yo....... already start to tune ur drag car. hop to see u doing beter this year.. will come n support u in sept.see u in miri..........

 

[LevinTE27]

thats a big issue of tyers. i almost pishing the limit of a pair of semi slick to touch low 13sec.. with bigger horse power it might cause to run slower than low 13sec. few years back before i do chasis tuning i did do some testing with tyers and power, with running 1bar my time is much more faster 1.5bar just a rubbish the power will not bring to the ground to push the car move.
it sound really fast with high boost but nothing car wont go forward.
u can see that alot of GTR in the race sound damn fast, bloody big turbo, high cams, ecu all fully modded and dynoed more that 600 horses.. so what... you can see smoke out from the drag slick, is the car fast? yes.. it touch finishing line with very high speed but wasted all the time at the 1st and 2nd gear lauching..

 

[simonchangwaimun]

try using drag tayars
like viswork use
wakaka

 

[20vturbo]

remember evo 3 champion last year almost clock 10 second, with a pair of worn out silverstone s575.

 

[madtoy21]

my car will not running side way anymore after the chasis tuned up. remember long shaft rotation is always anti clock if u view from back of ur car, so when u hold at high rpm clutch kick launch there is alot of force will bring ur car body weight to ur left wheel. to solve tat problem, u need to preload at least 20% of ur body weight to ur driver side. adding weight will cause u lost in horse power, so a pair of drag ladder bars can be tuned to let ur right side axle to lift up the body to get preloading.

the mouth of the ladder bars is important too, all of our street and track chasis always trasfer the weight to ur front wheel when pushing forward. it will help alot of steering control, but for drag is totally different way. adding weight will not help, u need to fully use the axle rotation force to lift up the front chasis for more weight transfer to tyers.
when everything done, is time for testing. try to lauching it with slowly let go the clutch, if u get the grip after car moving forward thats good, but if stay still lauching will get spin too then is time for start adding weight.

i will get more pic to update here after the race, not now. i have to keep some secret cos i had been doing testing and study about drag setup 3 years.
first race , i got seriuos wheel hopping and get 14.7sec in 1/4mile.
2nd race, i tried traction bars. it stop hopping at all but wheel spin at high rev lauching. i run low 14.1sec.
3rd race, i had setup ladder bars , flooding axle and increased my time to 13.2sec.

this year i hope can touch 12sec, i had increased boost and new frame . i added 2 tube bar under my chasis from the ladder bars mouthing to the gear box mouth so i get more solid force pushing car forward. remouth absorber mouthing to new frame to stop the absorber fighting with the ladder bar for twisting different direction. higher fuel tank mouthing to save more weight from chasis but added weight ratio to rear chasis.
any question just ask i will try my best to answer if i understand it.

thanks for the info dude.....waiting for pictures.