Installing grounding wire

jebatdex

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jebatdex

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Hi all sifus

I am going to DIY installing recently bought pivot 5 point grounding wire.

I bought it in the first place after google around where quite a lot of people installing it, especially for old cars like mine (1996 1.6 satria)

But yesterday, one mechanic i met said it is not necessary :idea:

Need some advise. Is it really necessary actually?

My logic thinking is; it is just additional negative wire which helps to discharge better. It wont disturb the engine system, rather makes the electrical system better.

Need advise on this. Is it good to go (install since i already have it), or not?

And also do's and dont's during installation.

Thanks all
 

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Hi all sifus

I am going to DIY installing recently bought pivot 5 point grounding wire.

I bought it in the first place after google around where quite a lot of people installing it, especially for old cars like mine (1996 1.6 satria)

But yesterday, one mechanic i met said it is not necessary :idea:

Need some advise. Is it really necessary actually?

My logic thinking is; it is just additional negative wire which helps to discharge better. It wont disturb the engine system, rather makes the electrical system better.

Need advise on this. Is it good to go (install since i already have it), or not?

And also do's and dont's during installation.

Thanks all
used it b4 on 2004 waja (in 2010) and all i can say is so so only.. But notice the light a bit brighter be it head lights / meter panel. Add in with voltage stabilizer to monitor but since bought the HKS cap ayam end up no indicator appear.. :banghead:
 

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If your car is accident free and is in tip top condition metal and wire wise, then it's probably not absolutely necessary to have a grounding kit. But most old cars have a lot of wear and tear so the stock grounding usually is compromised or worn. So if you use this aftermarket grounding kit it'll help restore the ground and make everything work back to normal again (key word : Normal.. not better). Do you have dimming light issues? If yes then your stock grounding is likely worn out. Just use it la, just make sure ground to the right places and don't create a short circuit.
 

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My Saga BLM year 2010, at first I don't believe in making any difference but then after just installing one from battery negative terminal to the engine. The improvement is that it is not as lagging as before. Was better than not having it. After removing it since I'm selling the car, it is now back to square one. The difference can be felt for my BLM.

Anyway, like they said, for older cars it helps. For new cars, not necessary.
 

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My Saga BLM year 2010, at first I don't believe in making any difference but then after just installing one from battery negative terminal to the engine. The improvement is that it is not as lagging as before. Was better than not having it. After removing it since I'm selling the car, it is now back to square one. The difference can be felt for my BLM.

Anyway, like they said, for older cars it helps. For new cars, not necessary.
Thanks to you and all

Will proceed to install on my 1996 satria which obviously very old now, the age coming to 2 decades now, and I am passionate to keep it in a good shape, and in its stock look. Thanks again! :burnout:

 

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Thanks to you and all

Will proceed to install on my 1996 satria which obviously very old now, the age coming to 2 decades now, and I am passionate to keep it in a good shape, and in its stock look. Thanks again! :burnout:

Happy DIY-ing bro. Best to get some guide or tutorial to do so. If not end up frying your ecu :rolleyes:
 

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I had starting issues with my wife's atos, had to change battery & starter but problem still persists,
ended up bought the rm25 hks purple grounding cables then problem solved till today no issues.
so for me the grounding cable does works.
 

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Grounding cables are good if car is old and wiring have build up resistance. Since DIY is cheap go ahead....
 

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Yes, my car is considered old now. Plus, it also got starting issues (tik tik starter sound when turning the key, especially when the engine is hot. Maybe also the starter needs to be serviced/replaced already). Also, the alarm sometimes goes on suddenly without reason.

So I hope can see some improvement on these. No harm to give it a try since grounding cable not very expensive.

Supra_fanatics, what can cause short circuit when installing the grounding cable? touching the cable to positive terminal or what? I am not that expert in electrical, so hope to give some guides (especially dont's) when DIYing this.
 

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There are two ways to ground. Directly to the battery or to the car body. The way I did mine was to the negative terminal on the battery.

From there I pulled a wire to my alternator, from alternator pulled to aircon compressor, from there to firewall. Then the other side was distributor / ignition coil to the negative terminal too and one final one from to the firewall.

So it's just a loop from negative to negative. And you don't have to literally connect to the alternator or distributor, just the nut holding it in is enough.

Lots of youtube how-tos on grounding so check them out too
 

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Yes, my car is considered old now. Plus, it also got starting issues (tik tik starter sound when turning the key, especially when the engine is hot. Maybe also the starter needs to be serviced/replaced already). Also, the alarm sometimes goes on suddenly without reason.

So I hope can see some improvement on these. No harm to give it a try since grounding cable not very expensive.

Supra_fanatics, what can cause short circuit when installing the grounding cable? touching the cable to positive terminal or what? I am not that expert in electrical, so hope to give some guides (especially dont's) when DIYing this.
I'm not sure. My friend was about to connect one last cable and touch only, the ECU fried. Not sure why. But it was an Almera. Heard not to simply ground here and there, have to ground the right area. LOL!
 

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which ever route for u'r grounding u choose, don't forget the first step to it, disconnect u'r car batt terminal & sifuses, which 1 is first, -ve first @ +ve first??
+ve first I guess. Right?

Then, connect all the grounding wire as wished, and finally connect back the +ve. Thats my opinion
 

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I'm not sure. My friend was about to connect one last cable and touch only, the ECU fried. Not sure why. But it was an Almera. Heard not to simply ground here and there, have to ground the right area. LOL!
ECU should be well protected. He either touch direct to ECU or some fuses, but then fuses are also protected. So not sure what he did...:hmmmm:
As long as you do not touch anything live (positive terminal) you are okay


---------- Post added at 09:04 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:02 PM ----------

There are two ways to ground. Directly to the battery or to the car body. The way I did mine was to the negative terminal on the battery.

From there I pulled a wire to my alternator, from alternator pulled to aircon compressor, from there to firewall. Then the other side was distributor / ignition coil to the negative terminal too and one final one from to the firewall.

So it's just a loop from negative to negative. And you don't have to literally connect to the alternator or distributor, just the nut holding it in is enough.

Lots of youtube how-tos on grounding so check them out too
I did mine all direct from battery, means from battery to engine, to alternator, to firewall, to TB and to Distributor. 5 cables all leading away from battery negative terminal...:biggrin:

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------

+ve first I guess. Right?

Then, connect all the grounding wire as wished, and finally connect back the +ve. Thats my opinion
I did mine without removing the +ve terminal. With key ignition off the only thing live is the positive terminal and it won't fry anything...
 

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ECU should be well protected. He either touch direct to ECU or some fuses, but then fuses are also protected. So not sure what he did...:hmmmm:
As long as you do not touch anything live (positive terminal) you are okay

I did mine all direct from battery, means from battery to engine, to alternator, to firewall, to TB and to Distributor. 5 cables all leading away from battery negative terminal...:biggrin:

I did mine without removing the +ve terminal. With key ignition off the only thing live is the positive terminal and it won't fry anything...
Means this drag race is not stock wei. All got groundings and volt stabilizer :rofl:

Anyway, ya the Almera ECU fried but did not blame my friend on it. Dunno what happen actually. Just trying to attach the last cable then short circuit.

Mine no need to remove positive terminal as well. Just the negative side.
 

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as 4 me I did remove both terminal, better to be safe than sorry like SF's fren almera, don't know wether got small leakage @ anything that can bring disaster to a fun d.i.y job.
 

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as 4 me I did remove both terminal, better to be safe than sorry like SF's fren almera, don't know wether got small leakage @ anything that can bring disaster to a fun d.i.y job.
True also, but best part for our mousedeer, we got no worries on ECU frying LOL! :rofl:
 

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yeah that's true but I'm more worried bout my ICE unit even if it's fused:biggrin:
I have no radio yet so far, radio I Have is still the ori kancil one and is already dead haha!
So nothing to worry so far, but I did my corolla without positive terminal remove, now that u reminded me, i might just remove all and do.
 

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lolz, grounding cable until fried ECU? 1st time heard it:adore:
No idea bro, maybe Almera mia sensitive or all the while got problem. So can't blame anyone.
 

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I think one of the grounding wires touched the +ve batt terminal.
You mean the rubber part bro? Means anything have to stay clear off the positive terminal?
By the way bro, how do we actually know we fried the ECU? Any responds from the car then we know?
 

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You mean the rubber part bro? Means anything have to stay clear off the positive terminal?
By the way bro, how do we actually know we fried the ECU? Any responds from the car then we know?
Your Kancil is carburetor, what you worried about? You don't have an ECU. The Altis on the other hand has one so if you fry the ECU, you won't be able to start the car or when the car starts to play Britney Spears songs on full blast out of the blue - confirm blown ECU.

So from what discussed here, better for me to remove both terminals :nurse:
Actually, it's not necessary. Just be very careful to avoid short circuiting the thing. Don't hook it up to positive at the battery or at the alternator or any live wire then you're safe. If you're worried just unplug but even if you do, still make sure you check your connections before connecting and make sure no short-circuit loop.
 

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Your Kancil is carburetor, what you worried about? You don't have an ECU. The Altis on the other hand has one so if you fry the ECU, you won't be able to start the car or when the car starts to play Britney Spears songs on full blast out of the blue - confirm blown ECU.
:rofl: Why u usually relate to my mira :rofl: Yes, worried about the Altis one. Kancil not afraid at all.
Cuz got once I was reconnecting my grounding cables cuz got loosen, then got sparks, gave me a shock and was afraid that I would get something fried. Lucky it is okay.

Just after all these grounding cables and volt stabilizer installed, my engine braking became more obvious.

the copper part dunno wat u call it.
This one?
 

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Means this drag race is not stock wei. All got groundings and volt stabilizer :rofl:

Anyway, ya the Almera ECU fried but did not blame my friend on it. Dunno what happen actually. Just trying to attach the last cable then short circuit.

Mine no need to remove positive terminal as well. Just the negative side.
Grounding and VS can add power meh?:smokin:
Mine negative also did not remove....

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

I think one of the grounding wires touched the +ve batt terminal.
Even touch +ve just spark only mah! Ground cable leads back to -ve terminal only

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------

:rofl: Why u usually relate to my mira :rofl: Yes, worried about the Altis one. Kancil not afraid at all.
Cuz got once I was reconnecting my grounding cables cuz got loosen, then got sparks, gave me a shock and was afraid that I would get something fried. Lucky it is okay.
Battery 12v spark where can shock you? You want shock, try the spark plug cables....:biggrin:
 

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Grounding and VS can add power meh?:smokin:
Mine negative also did not remove....

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------



Even touch +ve just spark only mah! Ground cable leads back to -ve terminal only

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------



Battery 12v spark where can shock you? You want shock, try the spark plug cables....:biggrin:
No la bro, gave me a shock as in gave me a scare kind of shock. Not electric shock :rofl:
Spark plug cables kena before. Previous mira stock one was faulty. Got electric shock for just touching the cables that was exposed.
 

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Grounding and VS can add power meh?:smokin:
Mine negative also did not remove....

---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------



Even touch +ve just spark only mah! Ground cable leads back to -ve terminal only

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------




Battery 12v spark where can shock you? You want shock, try the spark plug cables....:biggrin:

Bro, last time I used to think like u. 12v only how to got electric shock. Until one day when I removing my ns60 battery from my car. While I opening the positive terminal clamp using T wrench, I accidentally touching the other side of the T wrench with negative terminal. Spark came out, I half-cooked my fingertips. Smoke came out from my finger tip for around 3-5second. U can try it yourself.. :biggrin:

The car battery have only 12v. But it capable to push at least 45ampere of current. Power = volt X amp. So the total power is around 540w.
 

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Yesterday successfully DIYing install the ground cable. I take out both terminals and wrap the positive terminals so nothing touches it while I am working. Everything ok, nothing fried.. fuhhh... :star:
 

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Bro, last time I used to think like u. 12v only how to got electric shock. Until one day when I removing my ns60 battery from my car. While I opening the positive terminal clamp using T wrench, I accidentally touching the other side of the T wrench with negative terminal. Spark came out, I half-cooked my fingertips. Smoke came out from my finger tip for around 3-5second. U can try it yourself.. :biggrin:

The car battery have only 12v. But it capable to push at least 45ampere of current. Power = volt X amp. So the total power is around 540w.
It can spark and burn but not shock. I used to work in a battery manufacturing plant years ago. We test them, spark them and even one time we shorted one using thick cable. Left them on, means +ve and -ve terminal linked with that cable. The cable heated up, melted the rubber insulation then cable also melted away to disconnect the two terminals.......:biggrin:
 

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Yesterday successfully DIYing install the ground cable. I take out both terminals and wrap the positive terminals so nothing touches it while I am working. Everything ok, nothing fried.. fuhhh... :star:
How's the result? Got any difference?
 

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It can spark and burn but not shock. I used to work in a battery manufacturing plant years ago. We test them, spark them and even one time we shorted one using thick cable. Left them on, means +ve and -ve terminal linked with that cable. The cable heated up, melted the rubber insulation then cable also melted away to disconnect the two terminals.......:biggrin:
OIC. learn new thing today. Yes u r correct. It's not shock. But it's very painful.. Haha... :biggrin:
 

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How's the result? Got any difference?
Hmm.. Not driving last night, so cannot evaluate the headlamp brightness. If it does improve, maybe just 5%.. hehe no big deal on this. I am comfortable with previous brightness anyway.

I would like to see (hopefully) improvement on starter and alarm issues as I mentioned before. That will take some time and I will share my findings later.

My next targeted DIY mod is raising the hood (just a little bit) :nurse:
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...312-how-to-raise-your-car-hood-diy-style.html
 
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I noticed the rpm slightly reduced from normal idle 1000rpm to about 750rpm. Not much but it is still slightly quiet idle. Is it a good sign or vice versa?
 

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I diy grounding cable on my waja CPS, low rev misfire problem gone. Some may say proton stock grounding is bad. My friend civic FD1, have a problem everytime ac compressor kick in while idling, the rev down to around 500rpm and vibrating whole dashboard for a while. I diy to him grounding cable and the problem gone.
 

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i have grounding cables and fake Pivot VR - engine idling smoother, aircon kicks in gentler, acceleration slightly easier. could be my imagination but i like the VR stabilizer, ensures correct voltage all around, lights brighter and constant whether accelerating or not. Starting always good. My 10 year old Proton.
 

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Hi all sifus

I am going to DIY installing recently bought pivot 5 point grounding wire.

I bought it in the first place after google around where quite a lot of people installing it, especially for old cars like mine (1996 1.6 satria)

But yesterday, one mechanic i met said it is not necessary :idea:

Need some advise. Is it really necessary actually?

My logic thinking is; it is just additional negative wire which helps to discharge better. It wont disturb the engine system, rather makes the electrical system better.

Need advise on this. Is it good to go (install since i already have it), or not?

And also do's and dont's during installation.

Thanks all
Hi Bro

1st IMHO try not to install because want to gain HP or power. For me there is no such thing. BUT, the grounding do help. When the car getting older the cable also do. it is related to ohm law. When the cable getting old the resistance will be high and it less efficiency. By upgrading the ground cable, it act like adding a new channel to the current flow. Current is very smart ant they will choose lower resistance, cleanest and shorted path. Additional grounding create a refresh grounding route to the system. if you notice our car grounding using a thin cable (14 or 16 AWG if not mistaken). Adding bigger cable gave a better flow. My personal experience,my head light less flicker when AC kick. So be happy to add and enjoy. But PLEASE obey all the safety rules.
 

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Hi Bro

1st IMHO try not to install because want to gain HP or power. For me there is no such thing. BUT, the grounding do help. When the car getting older the cable also do. it is related to ohm law. When the cable getting old the resistance will be high and it less efficiency. By upgrading the ground cable, it act like adding a new channel to the current flow. Current is very smart ant they will choose lower resistance, cleanest and shorted path. Additional grounding create a refresh grounding route to the system. if you notice our car grounding using a thin cable (14 or 16 AWG if not mistaken). Adding bigger cable gave a better flow. My personal experience,my head light less flicker when AC kick. So be happy to add and enjoy. But PLEASE obey all the safety rules.
Already installed and survive! hehe... no, I do understand why I install it, exactly as what you mentioned above (stupid to think it can give more HP). If after installing it, idle is lower, is it a good sign? I have asked above once, no one respond yet.. hehe :rolleyes:
 

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Already installed and survive! hehe... no, I do understand why I install it, exactly as what you mentioned above (stupid to think it can give more HP). If after installing it, idle is lower, is it a good sign? I have asked above once, no one respond yet.. hehe :rolleyes:
Hmmm....have not come across this issue before....:hmmmm:
 

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First of all your idle isn't supposed to be at 1k rpm. 750 to 850 is ideal for most cars. So if it stabilized your idling then it's a good thing laaaa.. need to ask meh?
 

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I dont know normal idle is around 750 850. Bcoz before installing the grounding, it is always stay at 1000. I thought thats normal.. So, it means the grounding sets the idle to 'real normal', not 'normal that i assume', which is a good thing. nice
 

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I dont know normal idle is around 750 850. Bcoz before installing the grounding, it is always stay at 1000. I thought thats normal.. So, it means the grounding sets the idle to 'real normal', not 'normal that i assume', which is a good thing. nice
1krpm is normal if AC is on if not mistaken, rite aaa sifuses, if kei car rpm is less than 1k, vibration like hell brake loose:banghead: