Ignition timing tuning and some spare parts questions...

arturo

nooB
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Guys...need some advise here...

as some of u already know...i changed my distributor last week due to the old 1 failing big-time...new distributor doesn't have any problems but am having lots of problems with pinging during low revs under hi load. i went in for tuning 2ce today and they tuned using the strobe light and with the current detector hooked to plug #1. anybody knows what is the correct dbdc for a b16a? its currently at about 12deg but am still getting a lot of pinging and it's really irritating...i plan to adjust the distributor's alignment tomorrow by adjusting it slightly n hearing for the pinging but i'm sure thats not the right way...anybody can recommend a good tuning expert in mlk area?(FYI...am using ron97 esso fuel)

another question...i changed my driver's side upper control arm with a non-oem new replacement part (ANSHIN brand) 2 weeks ago. first day everything was fine...2nd day it was beginning to creak like when your bush wears out and now it's still creaking. 2 foremen i met told me all non-oem new replacement arms will creak. is this true? they both say that the creaking will keep happening as long as i use it but no effect on the functioning of the item...is this also true? anybody have any experience on this n any ideas on how to stop the creaking?

on 2 the 3rd question...my rear bushes have all gone 6 feet underground...initially, i planned to buy replacement bushes n get the engineering shop to pump them in but my foreman says that pumping in the bush will not last as long as getting a good halfcut set or a new oem replacement(he says dont get non-oem) is this true? will pumping in a new set of bushes affect the condition n lifespan of the new bushes in old arms?

4th question...i'm finding it quite hard to enquire about oem replacement arms for the SR4. anybody knows the price? once again my foreman quoted me about rm900 just for the rear lower arm alone(Honda original part)!

:adore:
 

shah5755

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bro, hope this can help u huhu 1st q better otai2 giv answer:biggrin:

i hv the oem parts no for SR4 rear bushing ( i get it from frens working with Honda)
1. bush stabilizer linkage 52314-SH3-000..................rm 22.24/pc x 2
2. bush,rr stabilizer 52315-SR3-000..........................rm 13.71/pc x 2
3. bush, stabilizer end 52316-SA5-000......................rm 8.81/pc x 2
4. bush, compensator (hakushin) 52343-SK7-003........rm 52.77/pc x 4
5. bush, rr lower arm(yamashita) 52365-SH3-014 .......rm 46.45/pc x 4
6. bush, upper arm inner(yamashita) 52393-SR3-004....rm 74.71/pc x 2
7. bush,rr upper arm (yamashita) 52395-SH3-004........rm 43.65/pc x 2

*price quote is for swk one, so if u r in peninsular maybe slightly cheaper than that:biggrin:
 

arturo

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thanks Shah but i've been told not to replace just the bush...better to change the whole arm assy together with bush. dunno which to follow cos my rear lower arm bush was changed before this(last year) with new bush...by sending to engineering shop to pump in the new bush but its already failed..

tried tuning the distri but still same problem with pinging...now it pings from 1k rpm all the way to 3.5k rpm...
 

rakyat

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thanks Shah but i've been told not to replace just the bush...better to change the whole arm assy together with bush. dunno which to follow cos my rear lower arm bush was changed before this(last year) with new bush...by sending to engineering shop to pump in the new bush but its already failed..

tried tuning the distri but still same problem with pinging...now it pings from 1k rpm all the way to 3.5k rpm...
Ya-la same suggestion from foremen on bushing but I always suspected that they were trying to pull a fast one as they did not have the press machine & it cost more to change the whole arm (unless it is half cut, then how long can it last?)

For your timing, did you reset your ecu after changing the dizzy? Normally tune by ear oso okay, but your case use timing stobe still got problem.

How I normally tune by ear : 1st push the dizzy down full (do not tighten the bolts too much) drive around, sure got knocking as ignition is too retarded. Adjust higher slightly & drive around. Repeat until there is no audiable knocking then push abit higher :biggrin: (unless you worry but FC)
 

arturo

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:adore: i totally didnt think of resetting the ECU....didnt reset the ECU...how long to unplug the battery b4 it re-sets ar? i a little worried parking outside without battery to the alarm...

i was also thinking of doing that...adjusting it slightly then driving around till no more pinging...

about the bush, i wont really trust halfcuts...cos is a type of perishable part...so as long as installed n in the weather, it'll start degrading. thats y plan to go for new. but new oem full arm assy costs a bomb..rm900 for a whole rear lower arm assy...only has 2 bush oni...if change the bush will cost less than 150 including workmanship(plan to install myself anyway). i think it may be true cos my foreman knows i will go n buy the bush myself. or if whole arm is will also go buy myself since i know the spareparts guy...i dun dare to trust non-oem new replacements after the case with my front upper arm...the creaking hasnt gotten worse but very irritating...
 

xtremeleo

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buy new bushings, i got meself new complete set, and it was one of the best thing ive done to my car.

unplug the EFI fuse to reset the ECU, sudehh..

what plugs grade are u using now? retard the ignition timing till the ping disappear, or get a set of colder plugs
 

arturo

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extremeleo...u buy the bush n pump in yrself? n the fuse need to unplug how long? i'm using ngks...standard type. not sure where to see the grade...did some reading n some honda fansites say use grade7? i plan to change to denso iridiums soon....

damn...just read this...not sure if wanna get the denso iridiums now...

http://www.honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=34345497&postcount=10
 
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xtremeleo

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dont get denso iridium, use normal plugs jer, sudehh.. i mod my plugs and they performed better, lasts as long as any iridiums

my mech was the done who installed them, but i got a new set of bushing ler. wear and tear items shud use new sir

the b16 engine is a hot operating engine, a 7 is a proper grade i think, but it depends on ur engine operating temperature, and the climate u r living in. if u r living in a hotter climate, its advisable to use a colder plug.

get ur plug's grade info sir, and post it here asap
 

arturo

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heres what i found at NGK's site...

which recommended? not an engine modder so i really have very basic knowledge on engine mods...sori eh

after work i'll remove 1 of my plugs n see the rating n post up tonite

Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo
Standard BKR6ES-11 5553 .052
V-Power BKR6E-11 2756 .052
G-Power BKR6EGP 7092 .052
Laser Platinum PFR6L-13 * # 3141 .052
OE Laser Iridium IFR6E11 ^ 6741 .052
Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 3764 .052


extremeleo...yr bushing changed since when? u pumped in new bush into old arms la?
 
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rakyat

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dont get denso iridium, use normal plugs jer, sudehh.. i mod my plugs and they performed better, lasts as long as any iridiums

my mech was the done who installed them, but i got a new set of bushing ler. wear and tear items shud use new sir

the b16 engine is a hot operating engine, a 7 is a proper grade i think, but it depends on ur engine operating temperature, and the climate u r living in. if u r living in a hotter climate, its advisable to use a colder plug.

get ur plug's grade info sir, and post it here asap
How long do your plugs last? Used conventional plugs and every other service need to change (around 15k to 20k) but change to denso iridium already 50k poreman oso said still boleh pakai.
 

arturo

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urrrm....this is sort of embarrasing but i have not changed my plugs for 40k. i change gear oil every 3rd oil service tho...always tot spark plugs should be changed every 50k?
 

xtremeleo

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rakyat : my plugs lasted for more then a year, witout missing a beat. i kept on constant watch on the plugs and they were white-clean (no fueling was done after changing the plugs, the iridium set prior to this new set was brown-grey-ish), i got fed up and didnt check on the plugs until they were jammed inside the chamber, lol. upon opening them up, i inspected the plugs and they were looking good, and still up to beat. so, looking from mileage point of view, i dunno, but what i can say is, they stayed good for a solid year jugek ler..

arturo : i changed them around 8 years ago kot.. lupa ler, so long ago dah.. used back the old lower arms, new bushing jer. i see the std rating for ur engine is a 6, id suggest a 7 in our hot climate. i installed a used 8 heat range for my dad's unser, the set were bought for an evo, lol, selambaaaa
 

arturo

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8 years n no problems with the bushings? u used ori honda bushes rite?

come to think of it...i dun think is my plugs problem la...cos b4 changing the dizzy never had a problem with such knocking...all these while plan to change plugs oso cos tangan gatal wanna try out better plugs...

in any case, i'll pull my old plugs out for a check later on n try the reset...just plug out n plug the fuse back? no need to wait a certain amount of time?
 

dneilmotorsports

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Did u check ur pulley mark yet. if everything is ok. u must retard ur timing less 2". if u still hear that knocking, check ur air/fuel ratio. Bcoz ,if ur fuel burn too nipis bleh jd knocking gak.. try ur best.
 

arturo

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dneil...2"? as in 2inches? or 2 degrees? rite now it's at 12deg...the old guy tuned it with a strobe light. i must say again i didnt have this problem b4 my old dizzy died off n had a replacement...how to check A/F mixture? need the diagnostics tool?

today just came back from work n some durian(D101 rocks!) so too dark n late to adjust the dizzy myself n pull out the plugs...