Fluctuating Car Temperature (Towards the H side)

Mitevo7

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Can still be use, just require servicing.
What broken pieces is there? i can see only oxidation.

Radiator servicing shop will run through a long small piece of steel or coppler into the water line to clear the line, assemble, then test for leak.
The broken pieces are actually under neath the radiator, there's leak below and radiator servicing shop said eventhough they can fix it but it will not perform good.

What's the take for this?

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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Just got it changed, the temp seems stablized like before but i haven't have time to take it for a hardcore run. For now i will be hooning my 1J until i have time to retrieve the car

Thanks,
Ken
On side note, after replacing Thermostat, within 30 minutes of driving, the temperature starts creeping to H, therefore we decided to open up the radiator and sees the inside are crappy. Replacing radiator to a racing aluminium one.

Thanks,
Ken
 
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vr2turbo

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The broken pieces are actually under neath the radiator, there's leak below and radiator servicing shop said eventhough they can fix it but it will not perform good.

What's the take for this?

Thanks,
Ken
Radiator shop say no good, then better change. Anyway, looking at the picture the top look ok......
 

Izso

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On side note, after replacing Thermostat, within 30 minutes of driving, the temperature starts creeping to H, therefore we decided to open up the radiator and sees the inside are crappy. Replacing radiator to a racing aluminium one.

Thanks,
Ken
Do you have a water temp meter? Maybe would be good to have one
 

^pomen_GTR^

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Hi All,

I am replacing the radiator with a racing aluminium one due to the stock radiator finally clocked out itself. As we open up the inside, this is how it looks like in the images.

Is it consider very clogged ? My mechanic said its pointless to clean it anyway and there's broken pieces inside the radiator as well.

Thanks,
Ken

yes very2 clogged radiator from the looks of it
 

vr2turbo

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Do you have a water temp meter? Maybe would be good to have one
My wife's forester don't have as with newer cars, just the blue and red light....lol
Will try out water temp using OBD2 with phone app, done by some already.....:driver:
 

Mitevo7

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Nah, no point uprating the PSI. It just means it's holding in more heat - which is what you don't really want.


time for an upgrade of fans! SPAL!
You think i print bank notes ah ?? :dontknow:

-Ken-
 

Mitevo7

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Do you have a water temp meter? Maybe would be good to have one
I am relying on the stock temp gauge, which is pretty good to tell me whether the engine cooling system is compromised. Would want to have one for the 31JZ though, that one is more crucial.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Mitevo7

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yes very2 clogged radiator from the looks of it
That's what i thought too, i have been draining coolant every 2 years and yet this still happened. I need to ensure my coolant is drained every year then to ensure my new radiator does not go bonkers.

Thanks,
Ken
 

Nightstalker1993

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Not too sure about your car specifically, but generally Mitsubishi have a 2-wire temp sensor for the ecu, and the sensor for the meter is actualy a seperate 1-wire sensor, and the gauge is calibrated in such a way that it will show 'normal' over a wide range of temperatures, and will only shoot to H suddenly when it passes a certain temperature, and because the sensor is only 1 wire, the accuracy of the gauge also depends on the chassis and engine grounding. So basically, the stock temp gauge is generally a decent enough indication for overheat, but if you want to be really sure, it is best to install a seperate temperature gauge. Also usually the stock temp sensor detects the water temp at post radiator entering the engine, and not the temp of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator. If you install your own gauge, it will be on the top hose which means you will be reading the higher temperatures of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator.

But then again, looks like you had found your culprit, so just change the radiator and see how la, but if you still experience the same issue again, check your obd water temp see if it tallies up with the gauge reading.
 

Mitevo7

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Not too sure about your car specifically, but generally Mitsubishi have a 2-wire temp sensor for the ecu, and the sensor for the meter is actualy a seperate 1-wire sensor, and the gauge is calibrated in such a way that it will show 'normal' over a wide range of temperatures, and will only shoot to H suddenly when it passes a certain temperature, and because the sensor is only 1 wire, the accuracy of the gauge also depends on the chassis and engine grounding. So basically, the stock temp gauge is generally a decent enough indication for overheat, but if you want to be really sure, it is best to install a seperate temperature gauge. Also usually the stock temp sensor detects the water temp at post radiator entering the engine, and not the temp of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator. If you install your own gauge, it will be on the top hose which means you will be reading the higher temperatures of the water exiting the engine entering the radiator.

But then again, looks like you had found your culprit, so just change the radiator and see how la, but if you still experience the same issue again, check your obd water temp see if it tallies up with the gauge reading.
Changing to a new radiator solved the issue and A/C runs colder and cools faster. Engine also performs much optimum and easier to Rev. OBD engine temp sensor shows 87 degree as per the thermostat setting is. Looks like the temp issue is gone for now. Looking into more mods for this car now ? AMR500 supercharger :)

Thanks for all the supports here !

-Ken-
 

Mitevo7

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that was an interestingly "easy" fix. What radiator did you opt for?
It wasn't easy at all. I wasted RM150 bucks on coolant when changing thermostat, 50 bucks on water pump and other inspection services to finally track down to radiator. The symptoms were not showing when driving in town after thermostat change, until the day i collected the car and went on highways for 30 minutes driving home, the heat shoots up and it was determined that the radiator has to be open up.

I am using Synergy Radiator, Evo X size, need to modify the mount point and relocate the AC piping a little.

Thanks,
Ken
 

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