Engine oil getting lesser

[mengz]

bro, not arguing here....we're here for a reason. to discuss & find solution :0 so if i offended u any how, im sorry.

back to the topic. ermmmm, i really have no idea y shell advice users like that. but i've came across other sites that says to use a thicker viscosity oil for older engines, due to the gaps being wider after wear & tear & newer engines or new design engines that has tighter bearings can use lower viscosity oil. so this sounds more logical, instead of saying use fully-syn for new engine, semi-syn for old engine, mineral for older engine. doesnt make sense, coz its the viscosity that we're interested abt, not its base stock.

 

[kyheng]

Not yet being offended, so is ok for me. Sometimes when we think tilted abit, it will become war zone here, haha.
Shell advise like this because they don't people to know that what is their actual visco. Another thing is, I don't what brand you are using, and have changed how many brands. But for performance wise, in budget matter, other brand like Castrol or Duckhams can outbeat Shell at the same range.

 

[mengz]

im using Q8 semi-syn 10w40 every 5000km. its price:performance ratio meets my expectation so all is good.

 

[kyheng]

What brand is Q8? Mine is using Castrol Magnectic.

 

[mengz]

Q8 is the brand, its actually a kuwaity company, hence the name Q8=kuwait. rhymes doesnt it? :) but the oil is manufactured in europe.

im switching to redline on my nxt oil change. was thinking of doing an engine flush with normal mineral oil for like 5 flushes, to clean the engine b4 pouring in the redline....hmmm

 

[nonameNo]

IMHO, if can, pls dont flush the engine so often. in long run, it will damage the engine inside - slowly... coz the engine flush chemical is very strong which will remove all the dirt inside... imagine how powerful is it and you not sure how the engine component or engine seal will react to it...

 

[kyheng]

For me, I will not do any, as long as we service our car every 5000km, then the problem is less. Some company selling some luboil addative that say can last you for 10-20k, the oil can last, even a semi syntactic, but how about the oil filter? These companies is very smart, they never mention anything on the oil filter, so when anything happend, they will deny is their fault.

 

[mengz]

yes, i too advice dun flush engine with those engine flush chemical if u own the car from brand new and take good care of it. but sometimes for ppl who bought 2nd hand car, like me. we donno how the previous owner take care of the car, and my engine is having some minor leak somewhere that cannot detect. so its good to flush the engine to see where is teh actualy leak. y ppl say flush engine not good is bcoz, it removes the sludge that sometimes seals the leak. so when u flush the engine, the sludge is being removed, then u have like valve seal leak or piston leaks.

i mean, theres two ways u can look at it. one is at least u know where the actual leak is now and can fix it once and for all. the other way u can look at it is, shit!! after flushing my car is consuming engine oil(which might already be in the 1st place but sealed by the sludge), and have to spend money to fix it.

but if given the chance to own my car from brand new, i believe i won't have to do an engine flush.

 

[kyheng]

If the engine got no leak on bottom, then got 2 things that might cause oil leak, which is the drain nut and oil filter as this 2 is always opened during an oil change. If can try look for the service shop that using eductor to educt the oil from the place we check for level..

 

[mengz]

waiks...bro, i highly dun recommend that way for removing engine oil. bcoz that way, u wun drain out the dirty engine oil fully. quite alot of the old engine oil will remain at the sump. my mech has this machine which he uses for other cars, makes job easier but on my car he doesnt use it, i dun want him to either :P drain from oil sump nut the best ler.

but usually if leak at drain nut and oil filter, u can see oil stains on the floor.

 

[kyheng]

The point for checking the oil level is 1 of the lowest point of the sump beside oil filter, so he will normally educt out all first. Is still the same, only the new way it will be more cleaner and the mech will exposed to less oil compare to old method. Another thing is, if drain at bottom some people might damage the drain nut.
Some mech will jack up your car abit before they educt the oil out. It still depends on how we see it, for me, as long as they all the old oil can be drain/educt out, that's the most important part.

 

[plugtop]

yup thats true.....try n go check all ur gasket and oil seal......maybe there s leaking......such head gasket, timing belt oil seal, ail sum gasket,
distributor iol ring, rocker cover gasket n etc....if no leaking...maybe u should go for detail checking.....