engine jerking... b16a

[D-IV]

I guess i'm late already since you've already changed a lot of parts to fix the problem. But look at the bright side, you've already replaced all the basic needs right hehe. Do you have any VAFC or any piggy back attached to the ecu? going for a chipped ecu does not necessarily mean its gonna be ok especially blind chip tuned, no matter whatever the advert says, it'll never be as good as live tuning.

Back to topic, I would check your distributor wiring first and all all other groundings. Might just be some loose connections somewhere. If you have any piggy backs, remove it for troubleshooting purposes too.

 

[FoarGeez]

just to share.. i had the same problem too only when i started to use ron95... been using 97 all the while... no problem.. then when problem arise i change my spark plugs n cable too... yet still same case... only happen when i slow down my car n wanted to speed up again... btw mine is 4g93..

 

[arrowhead]

div bro. was hoping u would drop an advise.

yeah i've pretty tried, spark plugs, plug cables, distributor, fuel pump and now lastly, ecu.

no i dont have any piggybacks nor vafc. just a chipped ecu removing speed cut, rev cut, temp check...

distributor wirings and grounding? ok i shall get it checked tmr, when i go swap my ecu just to try.

foargeez: thanks for ur info but my car has been on 97 since. =)

 

[D-IV]

Injector wirings + grounds
MAP sensor (try swapping with a friend) + wiring + grounds
Distributor wiring + grounds.

Get those 3 check.

 

[FoarGeez]

what bout knock sensors..?

 

[arrowhead]

ok upates. so up to date, i've replaced:

spark plugs
plug cables
distributor
fuel pump
ECU
fuel relay

my mech drove my car and it happened, he claimed it feels like insufficient fuel, so he opted for a fuel relay swap.

swapped.

still jerks.

will check those 3 as D-IV mentioned.

haih. headache..

 

[D-IV]

Its fairly easy if you have the wiring diagram to check the groundings and currents with a multimeter. Download the manual at hondahookup.com. They have a lot of honda manuals there.

If malas, then just send it over to the workshop to check the wirings. Keep on updating. Hopefully the problem will not cause you to go crazy hehe coz it might be very very very simple like a loose ground haha.

 

[arrowhead]

im abt to go crazy adi.. haha thank god my mech aint charging me for the parts i've tried..

he just let me try it on, and if its the cause, then perhaps, IF i do decide to buy, only then will he charge me..

i'll get him to check all those 3 u mentioned... hopefully its just a simple wiring issue..

 

[AD_EG]

ok upates. so up to date, i've replaced:

spark plugs
plug cables
distributor
fuel pump
ECU
fuel relay

my mech drove my car and it happened, he claimed it feels like insufficient fuel, so he opted for a fuel relay swap.

swapped.

still jerks.

will check those 3 as D-IV mentioned.

haih. headache..

wahhh bro....looks like you are having a bad case of ...."Sueh !!"

Anyways,im here to join on your boat....so need to tumpang your thread....

Its gonna be hard to explain....i'll try my best....my car has been running fine for months...and did not add anything new recently....the other day,i went down to track....ran some laps...when i left the track i didn't engage vtec..so never realised...2 days later..im going for my oil change...after changing...i tested the car.....................

SUDDENLY !!!! when i hit my vtec crossover point,it engages, BUT.....its weak.....VERY WEAK ...extremely noticeable...car has no power on vtec AND the sound is very different(soft)....nothing to do with my oil...car was well heated up during the test....

We have checked the oil pressure...that is fine...we have checked the vtec solenoid replaced it wiht another...still the same....there are no funny sounds like bearings or anything....car starts up lik normal..drives like normal below vtec crossover point...the car is admitted in the hospital now...for further test in the morning...was hoping any fellow zth-ians sifu's can shed some light or ever heard of this? and possible causes?

 

[D-IV]

Check your valve train component. From camshaft lobes, rocker arms, LMA's or even the pistons on the rocker arm (forgot what it is called which is used to lock the rocker arm when vtec engages) or anything which are part of the VTEC system. Suspect some worn out parts there or faulty parts.

At which point did you have the oil pressure check? Checking at idle or do you have a gauge in your car when you tried to engage it?

Even replacing the solenoid, did you jump the wires to a small light bulb to make sure the VTEC solenoid is turned on?

I have so many questions here sorry

---------- Post added at 05:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 AM ----------

what bout knock sensors..?

You can run without the knock sensors and it won't cause the jerk to happen. I ran with a faulty knock sensor for 4 months without problems and even dynoed it to check for fun.

 

[arrowhead]

Aiyoo bro ad_eg, we sama sama suey la. Urs seems bad and so does mine. I used to have vtec cannot open problem but I guess it was my ecu.

:(

 

[AD_EG]

Aiyoo bro ad_eg, we sama sama suey la. Urs seems bad and so does mine. I used to have vtec cannot open problem but I guess it was my ecu.

:(

haihs....

Check your valve train component. From camshaft lobes, rocker arms, LMA's or even the pistons on the rocker arm (forgot what it is called which is used to lock the rocker arm when vtec engages) or anything which are part of the VTEC system. Suspect some worn out parts there or faulty parts.

At which point did you have the oil pressure check? Checking at idle or do you have a gauge in your car when you tried to engage it?

Even replacing the solenoid, did you jump the wires to a small light bulb to make sure the VTEC solenoid is turned on?

I have so many questions here sorry

thank you bro for your reply...

the oil pressure was checked on idle and WOT...

yeah we jumped the wires and the light bulb turned on at the corssover

so you reckon its most likely caused from my head its self...thanks...in the midst of getting the head open...and hopefully find the cause....

 

[arrowhead]

Wish u luck bro. We need it. B20 only la for me lololol!

 

[AD_EG]

i was seriously considering b20...but i love my b18 so much...i know b20 is a cheaper way of extracting power...but i still prefer b18...maybe one day if my engine piang ...i might re-consider...

and also worried that if my problems lies within the headwork...changing to 2litre might not solve it,and maybe even cause some other major problems.....see la how things go....

 

[arrowhead]

haha. true true. b20 isnt really a cheap way to gain power. it'll be pricey also if u want to do it right, like getting the right conrod studs (which are the main cause for kabooom) and so forth.

well, u'll nv be satisfied with what u have, therefore the b20 is the ultimate b-series, thats why i'm opting for it, but not so soon la... solve my stupid JERK first.

kanineh. LOL